Jump to content

Recommended pins for planking?


Recommended Posts

I'd appreciate it if you guys could offer suggestions on methods of pinning planks to bulkheads to hold while the glue dries. I'd imagine they'd have to be very thin pins - not the "bulletin board" pins from the office - so they don't split the planks or make ghastly-large holes.

 

Also, when planking the second layer, is pinning recommended - especially if the hull will not be painted?

 

Thanks!

First build: US Ranger - Corel

 

Second build: HMS Beagle - OcCre

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are going to pin your planks as opposed to using clamps, Use the same pins that model railroaders use to secure their track to ties. There are a number of sizes, and your best bet in purchasing them is Age of Sails, you can either put them in using a pair of needle nose pliers or a pin pusher. I use clamps, and do all the hull planking before putting the deck planking on. Hope this helps.

 

Jim

 

Current Build: Fair American - Model Shipways

Awaiting Parts - Rattlesnake

On the Shelf - English Pinnace

                        18Th Century Longboat

 

I stand firmly against piracy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use sewing pins.

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are all kinds and sizes of clamps available, take a look on Amazon. You can never have too many clamps!

 

Jim

 

Current Build: Fair American - Model Shipways

Awaiting Parts - Rattlesnake

On the Shelf - English Pinnace

                        18Th Century Longboat

 

I stand firmly against piracy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you pre-shape the plank by spiling or heat and edge bending, finger pressure and PVA (or CA if you choose) for less than a minute is all you need MOST of the time.   Clamps certainly come into play at times, but if the plank is shaped beforehand, pins and clamps are not usually needed.  Scale matters as well.  If you are building at 1:48, the pin hole should be the same as a trennal, about 0.03".  At 1:96 it would be 0.015.  Trennals would then fill the hole, but at scales smaller than 1:64, they are extremely difficullt to make to scale, even using bamboo.  

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Agree. I have 3 sets of those. Helps to predrill the hole in the bulkhead just smaller than the nail.

 

Jim...I have the same building jig. Works fabulous. I guess when someone comes to your workshop they enter "Mister Roger's neighborhood!" 

Edited by acaron41120

Allen

 

Current Builds: Mayflower - 1:60; Golden Hind - 1:50

Past Builds: Marie Jeanne, Bluenose, Bluenose II, Oseberg, Roar Ege,

Waiting to Build: Swift

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never used pins to plank a hull. You can buy or bash all sorts of useful clamps that do the trick without compromising the plank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find there's no hard/fast rules on this.  Sometimes I use T-pins, other times clamps similar to what's been shown.   It all depends on if it's double planking or single planking. I've even used tape to hold planks in place. If I use a pin on the visible plank (outer one on double or if it's the only layer and need use a pin, then the holes get filed with a bit sawdust and glue.   

 

I have found that spilling and pre-bending to fit do save a lot of aggravation and extra work.  See the planking tutorials on how to do this.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...