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Best Wood Saws


BeeWee

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Perhaps you can be more specific. I don't think there are many "sets of mini wood saws" available in the marketplace. Also, are you referring to hand saws or powered saws? Which model are you building? Your answers to these questions will get you responses that are more accurately tailored to your inquiry. Generally, it's not wise to buy "sets" of any tools because they load these "sets" up with a lot of stuff you will never use. Follow the maxim: "Only buy a tool when you need it and then buy the best you can afford." The most expensive tool is the one you have to buy twice!

 

Much of the cutting done in modeling is done with scalpels and "hobby blades" which are readily available on hobby shops and on line. X-Acto and similar brands offer small saw blades that will fit their holders. A basic set runs around $25. In this case, the below "set" is an exception to the "avoid sets" rule. You probably will never use half the blades provided, but the price is worth it for the handles alone. There's a wide selection of bladees availabel separately.  https://www.amazon.com/s?k=xacto+x5282+basic+knife+set&adgrpid=1333708177723075&hvadid=83356927325719&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83357125204862%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=24627_10488567&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_1gynreog08_e (There are Chinese copies all over the place that look exactly like the X-Acto and Excel brands, but are pure junk. Don't buy them!)

 

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Another brand of hobby knife saw set showing the sort of saw blades available for the X-Acto sets. $11.00. https://www.amazon.com/LitKiwi-Modeling-Hacksaw-Handcrafted-Cutting/dp/B0BRKR9KQP/ref=sr_1_44?keywords=jewelers%2Bsaw%2Bkit&qid=1682128554&sr=8-44&th=1

 

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Another option is a classic adjustable jeweler's saw, which will hold a variety of different sized blades suitable for cutting wood, plastics, and metals. You want the adjustable frame so you can reuse broken blades that are no longer full length. (And you will break blades!) Buy a decent quality one. There are cheaper ones that aren't worth the money and hugely expensive ones that IMHO are overkill unless you are a professional jeweler. See: https://www.ottofrei.com/products/classic-jewelers-adjustable-sawframes (Note that Otto Frei jeweler's supply house is an excellent tool source.)  Buy a selection of saw blades while you are at it: https://www.ottofrei.com/collections/saw-blades

 

For example, this looks like an acceptable starter set: https://www.amazon.com/Megacast-Professional-Jewelers-Blades-Wooden/dp/B089XSPBJL/ref=pd_vtp_h_pd_vtp_h_sccl_5/139-6146405-0707815?pd_rd_w=5bdn2&content-id=amzn1.sym.a5610dee-0db9-4ad9-a7a9-14285a430f83&pf_rd_p=a5610dee-0db9-4ad9-a7a9-14285a430f83&pf_rd_r=S6XHMSDNABQSEVP6TC18&pd_rd_wg=rM4x6&pd_rd_r=cd18a20a-775c-4dfe-9bea-d3a7d7d282bc&pd_rd_i=B089XSPBJL&psc=1 (The wooden piece clamps to the edge of your workbench and is used to saw shapes from thin flat sheet metal or whatever other small piece you need to hold to saw. It will save you from sawing up the edge of your workbench!)

 

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These saws pretty much cover the "mini" handsaw selection for modeling. There are more options for power saws, but for small, fine work, you will probably opt for handsaws anyway. You can spend hundreds of dollars on powered scroll saws, a Byrnes Model Machines table saw and attachments, and so on.

 

Happy sawing!

Edited by Bob Cleek
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I'm a big fan of Japanese style pull saws.

 

I'm not a very skilled woodworker, and I feel the pull saws give me a much better control over my cuts than traditional saws. They come in many shapes and sizes (including detail saws great for small scales), and you can get them from quite cheap to really expensive artisanal stuff. I only have a couple of cheap ones, but enjoy using them much more than the handful of "hobby" saws I got when I started with model making.

 

However, I agree with bob - for a lot of cuts a good hobby knife is more than sufficient. I use my pull saws for dowels and wood sheets - bigger stuff. The really tiny stuff like few mm wide planks get the hobby knife, or even clippers to trim them.

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I like the Zona brand razor saws.  These are miniature “Backsaws” where a very thin blade is reinforced with a thicker back piece.  These are usually available in sets with different blade tooth counts; the coarsest cuts wood and the finest brass tubing and structural shapes.  Like the X-Acto  products above, the different blades fit into a common handle.  They are semi-disposable.  While they last a long time they would be very hard to sharpen.

 

Roger

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I like scalpels personally.

 

I have an Excel brand razor saw that is on its 2nd blade in 20 years.

 

I have a couple of coping saws for heavier work.

 

I just replaced the blades in both of them.

 

It should be noted that I added the saw set, that Bob mentioned, to my cart.

 

Many people like scroll saws for cutting out small parts.

 

Jigsaws are good for cutting out larger parts.

Edited by GrandpaPhil

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)

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It is a personal source of irritation, but asking about what is the "best" of anything much outside a bar or chatroom is pointless.  It is of no use here.  Asking about what is "excellent" or "necessary" or "a good value" will yield valuable information - if the subject is relevant to this site's purpose.

 

I am going to make propositions rather than suggestions given the scant clues offered by the OP:

 

The nature of the inquiry suggests that the OP is a beginner and is building a kit or intends to.  The question does not say what is to be cut.  

Remembering back to my Yellow Box, solid hull days, even with the high degree of semi scratch fabrication there was little that required more that the occasional use of a narrow blade razor saw.

From what I can see of it, neither old style nor recent laser cut kits require much sawing.  Any sort of "saw kit" will be mostly bench clutter.  The $12 plastic sprue that @Bob Cleek has found for us has no downside even if nothing comes up that requires its use.

I think that serious saw use comes with scratch.  Then, the jobs will dictate the sort of saw needed.   With that narrow class, asking here about which saws in it are junk and which are value may save money and frustration.

 

 

I agree with @von_bednar that the Japanese mini pull cut saws are easier for me to cross cut   ~1/4" thick stock or similar.  Many of the saw models have no back support -a pull cut does not need it - but the push reset needs care less the blade be kinked  -  There are choices in tooth length and set.  Wide thick stock being cut with a saw with little or no set saves on kerf, but the wood wants to seize the blade. Usually, with a crosscut, kerf  is not a factor worth factoring in.

 

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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If you want the best it really is a matter of opinion and the users experience of how the saws they have used in the past perform.  In my opinion I now use a jewellers saw as it does everything that I need.  It can hold so many different types of blades (which break often) that its use for me is pretty much limitless.  The blades can be installed as push or pull and turned to suit the cut as well. This is the one that I use but it ain't cheap and before this I used many saws which were adequate but never as good as this one.  However as has been said a really good knife is essential and can actually quite often do the job of a saw.  Your choice is huge and dependant on your budget.  I originally started with the cheapest blades and saws that money can buy and they have got me to where I am today.

 

https://www.knewconcepts.com/MK4-saws.php

 

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Thanks for all the information, and Jaager you are correct, I'm a newbie at this hobby. I'm currently building the Bluenose II hobby kit from Artesania Latina.  Some of the pieces I'm trying to cut are a little larger in size, 3 to 5mm and I'm finding it hard to get a clean cut with a scalpel.  I thought that you more experienced folks might have some form of mini saws that I should have in my tool collection.  Sorry if I seem a little naïve but as I say I am a newbie.  Thanks for all the comments.

B   

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Hi BeeWee, a few years ago I bought an “Ultra Thin Razor Saw from Lee Valley ( $14.90 CAD ) ( item # 60F0310 ). Been using it to cut wood as well as brass and aluminum. Still chugging along. Mentioning it because you have a store in Calgary. Good luck with your search. 

Regards……..Paul 

 

Completed Builds   Glad Tidings Model Shipways. -   Nordland Boat. Billings Boats . -  HM Cutter Cheerful-1806  Syren Model Ship Company. 

 

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BeeWee, I'd take the model with you to the hobby shop for them to advise and help on the right saw or saws.  Part of our problem with suggestions is we're not seeing the kit so the concept of "saw" can vary wildly.

 

It sounds like you would need something like Bob Cleek in the photo at the bottom of his post.  Or even one of last couple of blades from the middle photo. 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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