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Posted (edited)

Well Santa brought me a couple tools I been wanting for Christmas this year.  Few minutes in the woodshop and made some bases for them.
 

Been a great Christmas and yes, Mrs clause received some very nice things too.  

It works guys,  make her happy, you’ll be happy!!

 

 Keep up the great work you all do and I’ll see you next year!!

 

 Merry Christmas everyone!!

 

IMG_1729.thumb.jpeg.3bcc868d3ad005b354fd3538f0aeb36f.jpeg
 

Edited by kgstakes
Posted

Give us an update after you get a chance to use then.  I am very interested in these also.  

Completed Build:   HMS Beagle - Occre

Current Builds:       Frigate Diana - Occre  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33530-frigate-diana-by-rossr-occre-185/

Santisima Trinidad - Occre - Cross Section https://modelshipworld.com/topic/37130-santisima-trinidad-by-rossr-occre-190-cross-section/

On the Shelf:           NRG Half Hull, the US Brig Syren - Model Shipways and USF Essex - Model Shipways

Posted

Just doing a few cuts and this is the result.  The wood is 1/4x1/4 poplar so I had to cut a piece a little long then trim to get it square.  The cut is fantastic !!  A lot better than my chopper.  They are built like a tank,  I would guess 1/8” think steel not aluminum.  The I wold say all is made from steel not aluminum.

 

 I’ll try basswood in a few minutes and post pictures maybe a video

 

 IMG_1733.thumb.jpeg.3acb45e8a3de2b1476715957ad107b0f.jpeg

 

IMG_1732.thumb.jpeg.0b14770896e84c5feafbefa559daa59f.jpeg

Posted (edited)

I tried my best at a video.  If you’re looking for a solidly built tool these are.  Cuts are great but on thicker material you need to cut long then trim to get square cut.  Course they say that in the instructions.

 

 Overall,  great tools.  Mine will get allot of use in my miniature wood shop. 

 

 

Edited by kgstakes
Posted

I never mentioned that I also have a motorized disc sander from Jarmac I bought some 35-40 years ago.  It's a good sander, but the speed of the motor is just too fast to make fine sanding adjustments.   I've tried slowing it down with a foot rheostat, and the only thing it did was yes slow the motor down but I lost all the torque and the sander would stall as soon as I tried to sand.  I was reading another post a few minutes ago regarding the Ultimation sander.  Some were saying they would rather have a powered sander.  Yeah, but what I've found with mine (Jarmac) is that I couldn't just take a thousandth off or fine tune a cut.  And with hardwood, I would burn the end grain of the wood.

 

I still like my little (4") disc sander (Jarmac) but for the things I'm working on now, I find myself using a little home made sanding block more than the powered disc sander.  I believe the Ultimation sander will give me the best of both worlds, sand square and just a little bit off, and won't burn the wood.  Plus, I don't have to listen to the high pitch wine of the motor and no sanding dust everywhere.

 

Just got the sander and slicer from Ultimation, but I see me using both a lot more now that I have more control over the work piece than I did with a powered unit.

 

 

Posted

Byrnes Model Machines recently came out with an adjustable speed 4" disk sander with variable speed settings between 200 and 2,000 RPM and it also features reversible  disk rotation. Byrnes Model Machines - Variable Speed Disc Sander  It is otherwise similar to the earlier Byrnes 5" disk sander. Getting rave reviews. It's not shipping at the moment due to Jim Byrnes' sad passing, but I expect they will be up and running in due course. The price isn't listed on this unit at the moment, but, as one might expect, it's not inexpensive. That said, all of the Model Machines products are monuments to the principle that "you get what you pay for." They are the finest of their kind to be had anywhere. I'm not comparing the Byrnes disk sander to the Ultimation sander, of course. The Ultimation products are less expensive, being hand-powered, but still have earned an excellent reputation for quality. 

Posted (edited)

I have a 4” Jarmac sander too and have encountered the same problems mentioned above plus both the “cross cut guide” and the sanding table are flimsy and require constant adjustment, but it works and I use it.   The Jarmac tools (there were Jarmac mini table saws too) were standard equipment in model shops in the 1970’s when large engineering firms made models of industrial installations.  These 3-D models made from project drawings were effective at checking for interferences between piping, equipment, and building structure.  3-D CAD modeling eliminated the need for these physical models.

 

There was nothing wrong with the Jarmac tools in their day.  Rather, the new tools are an indication of how things can improve overtime if someone has a goal to offer an improved product.  

 

Roger

Edited by Roger Pellett
Posted

Here's a video just showing how accurate the machines are.  Please I know there are other machines out there that may be just as good.  I just didn't want a powered machine.  And I liked the Ultimation tools.  Thank you for your interest in anything I do, it is really appreciated.  I really enjoy this forum and don't want to offend anyone.  Yeah, we all have differences of opinion which is good and I'm really happy we all can talk about all kinds of things.  Thanks again for allowing me to share my hobby with all of you.

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

That was one of the reasons I wanted them.  Quality and as far as the slicer there is nothing out there that has the heft of a quality tool that this one does.  I’ve cut so far up to 1/4” thick poplar with it.   Cuts are excellent and yeah they’re expensive but like they say you get what you pay for.

 

 The sander I’m finding already that I go to it more than my little sanding block for touch ups.  It’s just really handy and everything stays square!!


Another word about expensive tools, for the most part and I’ll stand by this in my wood shop as well, buy the best you can afford.  In time you will be able to buy more accurate tools and better tools.   But as far as power tools,  you really don’t need them.  Many many great modelers (past and present) probably don’t have any power tools.  They are the true craftsman of their trade as far as I’m concerned.  Nothing beats doing things by hand and we all need to (world) just need to slow down just a bit and get your favorite beverage, put some easy listening music on and just slow down and build something by hand.  I’ll guarantee you, you will be proud of what you’ve done and it will be time well spent.

 

 May even find you like it, like many of us and it’s our escape from all the busyness is our lives.

 

Edited by kgstakes
Posted
3 hours ago, kgstakes said:

May even find you like it, like many of us and it’s our escape from all the busyness is our lives.

 

Could not agree more.

Ryland

 

Member - Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

            - Ship Model Society of New Jersey

               - Nautical Research Guild

       

 

Current Build - Armed Virginia Sloop, 18th Century Longboat

Completed Build - Medway Longboat

Posted

You know we all been talking about the power tools that we like and I got to thinking.  Honestly, when I first got into the hobby of building plastic kits, model railroading, really the only power tool I had was a dremel.  The other tools were all hand tools.  x-acto knife, scale rule, some clothes pins for clamps, some rubber bands for clamping, toothpicks for a glue applicator.  Ya'll get the picture.

 

So, for anyone just starting out in the hobby, don't get all hung up on you HAVE to have all these power tools we're all talking about.  You can build some great looking models with just hand tools and a inexpensive dremel for cutting.  That's really all you need.  Then as time goes by and you want to buy some power tools, then go ahead.  But don't let all this talk about power tools keep you from getting into the hobby of building all kinds of models.

 

It's a great stress reliever and you may even find things that you thought you could never do really really enjoyable.

 

So give this hobby a try...  Ships, boats, cars, trucks, railroad, monsters, the list goes on and on.

 

Thanks again to everyone here, it's been a pleasure looking at all the fine builds you all do.  I keep striving to be a great of a modeler as you all are!!

  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 12/27/2023 at 2:26 PM, kgstakes said:

That was one of the reasons I wanted them.  Quality and as far as the slicer there is nothing out there that has the heft of a quality tool that this one does.  I’ve cut so far up to 1/4” thick poplar with it.   Cuts are excellent and yeah they’re expensive but like they say you get what you pay for.

 

 The sander I’m finding already that I go to it more than my little sanding block for touch ups.  It’s just really handy and everything stays square!!


Another word about expensive tools, for the most part and I’ll stand by this in my wood shop as well, buy the best you can afford.  In time you will be able to buy more accurate tools and better tools.   But as far as power tools,  you really don’t need them.  Many many great modelers (past and present) probably don’t have any power tools.  They are the true craftsman of their trade as far as I’m concerned.  Nothing beats doing things by hand and we all need to (world) just need to slow down just a bit and get your favorite beverage, put some easy listening music on and just slow down and build something by hand.  I’ll guarantee you, you will be proud of what you’ve done and it will be time well spent.

 

 May even find you like it, like many of us and it’s our escape from all the busyness is our lives.

 

Well said kgstakes!  Hurray for using (quality) hand tools!  About 99% of my modeling work is done with hand tools only.  My "go-to" hand tools include a Lie Neilson block plane, a L.S. Starrett 3" adjustable square and 6" steel rule.  I also use the Ultimatiion slicer, sander and repeater.  I can vouch for their quality.  I wouldn't be surprised if some of the power tool I rarely use will be going bye-bye.

 

Wooden ship and aircraft modeling is mental therapy for me.  I'm recently retired and frequently give my models away to a happy kid.  Nothing de-stresses me more than kicking back with my friends J.S. Bach, A. Vivaldi and W.A. Mozart with my favorite beverage making wood shavings. 

 

I'm still trying to figure out how to make wood strips and inlay using just hand tools.  I'm sure I'll figure it out at some point.

 

I agree with you kgstakes; "Nothing beats doing things by hand and slowing down.

 

 

Wawona 59

John

 

Next Project: Gifts for friends:  18th Century Pinnace, Kayak 17, Kayak 21

 

Indefinite Hold for the future:  1/96 Flying Fish, Model Shipways

 

Wish list for "Seattle Connection" builds:  1/96 Lumber Schooner Wawona, 1/32 Hydroplane Slo-Mo-Shun IV, 1/96 Arthur Foss tug, 1/64 Duwamish cedar dugout canoe, 1/96 Downeaster "St. Paul"

 

Selected Previous Completed Builds:  Revell - 1/96 Thermopylae; Revell - 1/96 Cutty Sark, Revell - 1/96 Constitution, Aurora - Whaling Bark Wanderer, Model Shipways - 1/96 Phantom, AL - 1805 Pilot Boat Swift, Midwest - Chesapeake Bay Flattie, Monitor and Merrimac, Model Trailways - Doctor's Buggy

 

Posted
23 minutes ago, Wawona59 said:

I'm still trying to figure out how to make wood strips and inlay using just hand tools.  I'm sure I'll figure it out at some point.

Might this tool help with getting a uniform thickness?

https://bridgecitytools.com/products/hp-8-mini-block-plane

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted
58 minutes ago, Jaager said:

Might this tool help with getting a uniform thickness?

https://bridgecitytools.com/products/hp-8-mini-block-plane

Jaeger - Thank you so much for this tip.  This looks like a much better way to go compared to the way I've been doing it by hand.  It's probably more precise too.  I'll definitely check this out.  Price doesn't seem to be too outrageous compared to the use I will get from using it. 

Wawona 59

John

 

Next Project: Gifts for friends:  18th Century Pinnace, Kayak 17, Kayak 21

 

Indefinite Hold for the future:  1/96 Flying Fish, Model Shipways

 

Wish list for "Seattle Connection" builds:  1/96 Lumber Schooner Wawona, 1/32 Hydroplane Slo-Mo-Shun IV, 1/96 Arthur Foss tug, 1/64 Duwamish cedar dugout canoe, 1/96 Downeaster "St. Paul"

 

Selected Previous Completed Builds:  Revell - 1/96 Thermopylae; Revell - 1/96 Cutty Sark, Revell - 1/96 Constitution, Aurora - Whaling Bark Wanderer, Model Shipways - 1/96 Phantom, AL - 1805 Pilot Boat Swift, Midwest - Chesapeake Bay Flattie, Monitor and Merrimac, Model Trailways - Doctor's Buggy

 

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