New builder here, understanding the different types of wood in your kit???

[Feymoon]

Hello everyone, I'm currently building the OcCre model Corsair (1:80 scale) and it's my first ever super detailed model ship. I've been a huge fan of building dioramas and crafting terrain/monsters/miscellaneous things for my D&D group, and also I've been quite handy in assembling all types of kits from Tamiya, Revell, Trumpeter, etc. Being new to wooden plank on bulkhead models, I'm having a hard time finding anything about the identification of the types of woods generally used in these model kits. I've included a couple pictures of the wood that was in the Corsair kit and a picture of one of the pages in the IP manual/parts list. Unfortunately (or fortunately, I don't really know yet lol), the parts list doesn't include a list of how many of each type of wood was included with the kit, rather a cut list for each individual piece to be assembled. In the right column it states what type of wood to use for each particular piece but that's where I'm stumped. I don't have any idea what is what, and to make things worse there are multiple different colors/types of wood with the same dimensions. The only thing I've found online really is that most types of wood commonly used in these kits can vary wildly in color and texture, and that sucks lol. My main concern is just that I use the wrong type of wood for a particular series of parts and then later on in the build find out that I've ran out of a specific kind of material and get stuck. If anyone has built the OcCre Corsair, or can help me identify what the woods are that were included in this kit, I'd be forever grateful for your help in figuring this out. Thanks to anyone who has read this, have a good day!
Cheers, and take care <3.

 

Edited February 20 by Feymoon

[barkeater]

For identification try The Wood Database which lists many different types with pictures. To identify I really need to see the grain. I do wonder if the dark grey/black wood is dyed. The dowels are probably birch. The brown wood is probably walnut and or mahogany. The light colored could be bass or not. Hopefully someone here has built this kit. Good luck, and welcome to ship building.

Rich

[No Idea]

I agree with barkeater the wood database is great

 

https://www.wood-database.com/

 

The list that you have also gives sizes and  quantity which should help you identify the different species.  

[Feymoon]

Thank you both so much for your input. I've flipped through the parts list and all the different types of woods mentioned are "Sycamore, Sapelli, Lime Wood, African Walnut, and Madera. I will check the wood database for all of these after I reply! Also for Barkeater, I'm going to include some close up pictures as clear as possible so you might even be able to place a name to some of these. As always, the phone cameras dilute the colors so just remember they're much more saturated in person lol. Thank you again! 

[SteveA]

I looked at the Corsair instructions on the Occre website and it only shows sapelli, lime/sycamore, and walnut being supplied with the kit, same as my Occre Xebec kit.  Sapelli is the brown wood with porous grain, typically used as a top finish surface in planking.  Lime/sycamore is the cream colored wood used for dowels, under layer planking and decking in my kit.  The thicker hardwood pieces may be dyed walnut.  My kit has walnut pieces, but they aren’t colored like that. Walnut is typically used for deck furnishings, etc…

[SteveA]

Just to clarify, when it says “Madera”, that just means wood in Spanish, it is a precut piece that you should be able to identify from the picture or drawing.

[barkeater]

I can't really add much to what Steve said. Hopefully you can figure out most of it by comparing the instruction list to the dimensions of the wood supplied along with the quantity supplied for each. I would add that walnut, can also be used for the second planking.

Rich

[Jaager]

3 hours ago, Feymoon said:

"Sycamore, Sapelli, Lime Wood, African Walnut,

I see that you are a Tarheel, so  Sycamore and Walnut will have different meanings from what is European in origin.

 

I doubt that any kit will include Black Walnut or any member of the Juglans family.  What is provided in kits is called "walnut" because of its color. Most is one of several African species in the Mahogany family or a near relative.  Actual Walnut is a much superior wood, but for our uses, it has open pores - not good.

 

What Europeans call Sycamore is an Acer.  It is a Maple.  The Plane tree - what we call Sycamore - a large fast growing but messy tree - has fine grain, no open pores, usefully hard hard wood. However, the grain is busy, it is currently sold as Lacewood,  it has an unpleasant smell when cut and the fibers roll.

 

Lime is Tilia.  It is a soft wood with almost no visible grain.  A color similar to Pine.  It has been used in Europe - northern Europe - for a long time for carving.  The North American member of the family Tilia,  used here as a substitute is Basswood.  Lime is twice as hard as Basswood and not as fuzzy.  Bass does not hold a sharp edge.

 

The light color wood would be either Lime or Sycamore (Eu). If it is soft and shows no grain = Lime. If it hard and with an visible alternating grain = Sycamore.  The color defines its location.

 

Sapele is another African Mahogany.  It is for show.

 

The black is something that has been dyed.  I would guess it is for the wales.

The grey is something that has been dyed.  Probably the same species as the black.  I would guess for decking.

For a new deck, Lime or Acer would match the original Pine or Oak decks,  but the Sun and hard use will turn a "not for show" deck grey.

 

If you catch the ship modeling bug and if it sets in so hard that you come over to the dark side,  Except for the Acer, you can use the wood supplied in the kit as examples of species that you would never use.  For the Acer,  we have the premier member - Hard Maple earning an "A".    The European species gets a "B". 

Edited February 20 by Jaager

[Roger Pellett]

For some, but by no means all kit manufacturers, the names given to these woods is little more than a marketing opportunity.  Their advertising leads buyers to think that they are getting deluxe materials while in reality as Jaager points out the species offered would not be chosen by experienced scratch builders. As a general rule, the real premium ship building woods are slow growing species with tight, coded grain structure.  Many fruit woods would qualify.

 

Roger

[Feymoon]

Just want to thank everyone for your amazing support and information in answering my questions. I did indeed figure out what all the materials are and which woods are which. I've got the bulkheads glued up to the hull structure and am well on my way to getting this awesome model started! Can't wait to continue this project, and I'll certainly be back if I have any more questions. Thanks again, much appreciated!!

[mtaylor]

Feymoon,

If you haven't done so, I suggest you open a build log for your model.  It's a great way to get help and also meet other modelers.  

[Feymoon]

5 hours ago, mtaylor said:

open a build log for your model. 

I would happily do this! Is there an easy way to do it? Do I just make a thread with pictures and/or videos of my progress? Or do you mean on youtube or something? Apologies for the amateur questions lol I truly am a novice among masters here.

Currently, I have a few pictures of the build so far, but knowing I could make a timeline for the model I'll begin taking more pictures of my process. My totally untrained, outside thinking, probably wrong but it works process haha.

[mtaylor]

It's not that hard actually.   Just go to the kit log area, pick the era for your model and click on it.  At the top of that page are some pinned posts on "how to".    Also, go here: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/47-how-to-use-the-msw-forum-no-modeling-content /   And in the new member area, there's a lot of pinned posts that can help.

 

Most builders just use photos as it's also easier to reference a photo if you have questions.  

 

While you're at it, do a post in the new member area as it's the best place to start.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  You can have a certain wood that works pretty good, yet another batch (or age) of the same wood may not work nearly so well - or poorly.  This depends on how the grain runs (thus how thoughtfully it was cut), the quality of the stock and storage conditions.  In short, if provided wood works OK, go ahead.  If not - try something else.    Maybe its like a choice of wine - and there was a TV cooking show about Louisiana cuisine hosted by a good-ole boy Justin Wilson, and he used to say,  "Some people axe me what kinda wine you drink with dis here food.  And I tell 'em, whatever wine you get hold of."

 

Edited February 24 by Snug Harbor Johnny

[Roger Pellett]

I have little or no patience with computers but I have an active build Log for my current project here on MSW.  Build logs here on MSW are stand alone.  They do not require You Tube, Face Book, or anything else.  In your case go to Build Logs for Kit Models.  Pick the date range that applies to your model.  Open a new topic, and start telling your story.  If you have photos saved, click on Add Files at the bottom of your post.  It’s really as easy as that!

 

Roger

[tom q vaxy]

is there a species of wood which has tight grain, accepts paint well, and readily available in a variety of sizes?

 

my first guess would be pear, second bass, but guesses are key.

 

i am going to end up painting grain & character knots, but am finding styrene strips for a large scale (1:12) project unavailable.

 

thanks.

[allanyed]

1 hour ago, tom q vaxy said:

is there a species of wood which has tight grain, accepts paint well, and readily available in a variety of sizes?

Boxwood, Castello, Swiss pear, holly and Alaskan cedar are favorites for many builders.  Basswood is OK, but is relatively soft compared to the others so does not hold an edge as well if care is not taken.   There are more, but these are just to name a few.  Where are you located? There are suppliers around the world but a US supplier will not work so well if you are in a different part of the world.

 

Not sure what you mean by a variety of sizes.   There are thousands of pieces and sizes on any given model.  The hull alone will have nearly a hundred strakes on a larger ship, everyone of which is different when tapered and pre-shaped by heat bending or spiling.  The best kits these days seem to have all of these laser cut, but if you are scratch building you will need a few cutting tools from saw to chisel to scalpel.

 

Allan

 

 

[tom q vaxy]

thanks for the information.

 

i'm not a ship modeler (boo - hiss!!!) but a railroad modeler (NOT a model railroader - there's a difference) and want to put some framed structures together in 1:12 scale, so my sizes are finite and limited to common dimensional lumber, i.e.,  2"x 4", x 6", 8" - you get the picture.

 

i'm on the northeast coast, USA, and have used a couple of the resources in post #1, page #1, of this thread.

 

it was getting a bit overwhelming & frustrating to go from site to site without knowing which species i should focus on.

 

thanks for the help,

 

sid

[allanyed]

Hi Sid

I have a friend that builds railroads and full blown villages.  When he was building some new trestle bridges and buildings he bought poplar boards at Home Depot and he brought them to me to cut into various stock sizes on my mini table saw.  Took less than 20 minutes and he had enough for a year.   Hopefully someone with a small table saw is near you.  Check out if there are any ship model clubs in your area.  Sorry I can't be of more help.  If you are anywhere near SW Florida come on over and we can get it done. 🙂

Allan

[tom q vaxy]

amazingly generous offer; thank you.

 

but i'm 1,500 miles north!

[Jaager]

8 hours ago, tom q vaxy said:

my first guess would be pear, second bass

Northeast US,  There are many low cost species that will work.

Looking at species that are favored for scratch clear finish wooden sailing vessels is not a productive or economical path for your needs.

Pear - Swiss Pear ( is a steam oxidized European wood )  It is expensive here.  It is difficult to source here.

Basswood is favored for architect's models because it is available precut and does not rival platinum in price. It is also soft and fuzzy.

 

Your economical choice is construction Pine (not Fir).  The endcap loss leader at Home Depot.  Pick clear with no sap.

Yellow Poplar is low cost and would do exactly what you want.

Hard Maple, Black Cherry are over kill, but like the above two also have closed pore, so save a finish step.

Nut wood species would work - Oak, Ash, Hickory, Willow - they just need a pore filling step Sand-n-Sealer.

 

Your problem is getting lumber into 1:12 scale 2x4 and 2x6  and 1x8 -1x12 clapboard.

If you do not have a bandsaw and a thickness sander and a modelers table saw,  you can make do with a full size table saw.  Just mount a hollow ground rip blade. 

Borrow the use from someone who has one and bring your own blade.  Try to avoid feeding your fingers to the saw or getting impaled by a kickback.

If you use Pine, the extra loss to kerf is something that you can stand.

 

8 hours ago, tom q vaxy said:

is there a species of wood which has tight grain, accepts paint well

Prime any wood with half strength Zinsser shellac - Scotch Brite- follow on with full strength - Scotch Brite and tack rag.

Then any paint will bond. 

 

 

[tom q vaxy]

sobering advice; thank you.

 

i have a fair selection of tools from 54 years in the residential construction field.

 

(when i ate meat) i would once in a while go to a restaurant and order "a steak." just 45 minutes of gastronomic indulgence; i didn't want the server to explain all the parts of a cow to me.

 

sort of in that situation now. i do my "retired" projects for free & pay, but for myself i want to save some energy to play.

 

i did entertain getting a Bryne saw before Mr B passed away, and perhaps may still end up there. but to get more stuff to schlep to the 'end of the road' yardsale isn't my first approach.

 

like the finish steps regardless of how i proceed. Zinsser products are a favorite 'go-to'.

 

i use their amber shellac over yellow newbaum cotton cloth handlebar tape on my bicycle and get plenty of "ooohs & aaahs" on my daily rides. 

 

thanks again for the perspective.