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Nabopolassar King of Babylon and Daffadar, Skinners Horse by king derelict - Art Girona - 54 mm


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22 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

You have done a fine  job on him Alan  -  really nice  details and mixtures of colours.

 

Have a  good  one  on your Birthday  mate.

 

OC.

Thank you very much OC. He will be going back home shortly. My friend is a professor of Ancient History at Barcelona University and lives in Girona (and knows the shop). She did her post doctorate work on Nabopolassar so hopefully she will enjoy the figure.

The sword is painted but I think it will be sent as a separate item and she can add it on arrival. I think it is too delicate to trust to the postal services

Alan

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Arggh - It happened again. Adding the last details to the Yellow Boy and the figure detatched from the painting base and landed hard on the work bench. Head, arms and base all separated again. I don't know if its the plastic pill container top that is the problem. maybe I should have roughed it up to key the glue. I used CA, Gorilla Glue and two part epoxy all with dubious results and an unexpected failure. 

This time I tried some heavy duty adhesive tape which I have used to secure larger ship models to a working base.

 

Amazon.com: EZlifego Double Sided Tape Heavy Duty, Extra Large Nano Double Sided Adhesive Tape, Clear Mounting Tape Picture Hanging Adhesive Strips,Removable Wall Tape Sticky Poster Tape Decor Carpet Tape(9.85FT) : Office Products

 

It is very tenacious and so far its holding up. I'm hoping in the event of a failure the tape will peel away rather than break away giving me a chance to save the situation.

 

So once again the figure was reassembled and the details on the turban, sash and cummerbund added. I lightly sketched the areas to paint with a pencil which helped. The base was painted with Mig Sand and the rocks picked out. The sword was painted and added. One thing I have learnt (the hard way) is that these white metal figures are heavy. This is why the problem with fixing them to the base is such a headache but it also means that even details like the sword have weight and need to be supported well during the period that the glue is drying. Ask me how I know! 

I delved into my Woodlands Scenic supplies and added some burnt grass to adda little more interest to the base. 

The final touch was to add some dry brushed sand colour to the daffadars boots as this is not aimed at being a parade figure but more regular service.

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Generally, I am happy with the figure, the face came out quite well and the shading worked out. It would have been better f it hadn't been broken and reassembled so much. There are some minor shifts in the assembly which detract a bit from the final result. I think this one was harder than Nabopolassar; there are less guides in the scuplt to provide boundaries for the paint colours.

So I am deliberating one last element of the model. The kit provides a lance in two parts for the figure to hold. At the start of the assembly I drilled the hands to hold the upper section but I am nervous about adding it. Its the weight problem again and bracing it while it dries.

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I think there are three options

1 - Go ahead and see what happens. Maybe use a third hand type of clamp to hold it while it dries

2 - Ignore the top section and let the figure be holding a lathi - a bamboo rod.

3 - Remove the pennant from the lance (its a significant part of the weight) and add one made of foil.

 

Thanks for looking in, the likes and the comments

Alan

 

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Another suggestion, use a resilient glue, like Formula 560 or Gator's grip... (and yes I would shave the pennant off and replace it with foil if anything for the balance aspect, it will be easier without the off center pennant weight...

 

Nice work though...

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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15 hours ago, Egilman said:

Another suggestion, use a resilient glue, like Formula 560 or Gator's grip... (and yes I would shave the pennant off and replace it with foil if anything for the balance aspect, it will be easier without the off center pennant weight...

 

Nice work though...

Thank EG. The balance hadn’t occurred to me but you are correct, it will help enormously. Many thanks. 
im thinking maybe a contact adhesive might also be worth trying to hold the figure on the base. Anything that doesn’t dry hard and then prone to cracking off.

 pennant ( or guidon possibly) is about to be cut off 

Thanks for the advice as always 

alan

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52 minutes ago, king derelict said:

Anything that doesn’t dry hard and then prone to cracking off.

Anything that dries hard is more prone to breaking off is the rule... Contact cement is seldom used for modeling, it is a cabinet makers glue used for permanently gluing panels, big flat surfaces, together... It doesn't work at all in spot gluing small parts...

 

The main draw to superglue is speed, not strength... Gators grip was formulated to replace superglue as the go to glue for photoetch, too many times I've had a PE part ping off into the sunset after gluing with superglue, I use Gator's grip exclusively on PE now... Have never had a part break off since... Canopy Glue came to us from the RC airplane genre, and it was developed cause all the usual flying model airplane glues would fail when attempting to land your dream plane on the runway, they were too brittle to hold to the smooth surface of canopies and fuselages the canopies would pop right off... Canopy glue holds to the smooth surface and being resilient can take the shocks of landing, or god forbid crash landings, without the canopy popping off... I use it to glue canopies on to my aircraft models in preparation for masking and spraying... Why? cause they will not come off until you take them off... The model will break in half before they fall off...

 

Trust me, for some applications, Gator's grip or canopy glue is the ticket... Inserting a thin narrow object into a pocket? Gator's Grip is the choice I would make...

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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Recommended by an expert modeler friend, I bought this glue specifically for attaching clear plastic parts due to its strength and crystal-clear finish. But I have found it's useful for other applications. The product claims to be a perfect rock-hard clear finish when diluted with water and used as a clear coat but I have not tried that yet for myself so I can't swear to it. I like the large quantity you get for the price as well as the applicator tip makes it easy to apply exactly where I want it. Try it, I think you will like it. Not an instant glue but dries reasonably quickly.

 

Amazon.com: Judikins GP005 Diamond Glaze, 2-Ounce

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4 hours ago, Egilman said:

 

Trust me, for some applications, Gator's grip or canopy glue is the ticket... Inserting a thin narrow object into a pocket? Gator's Grip is the choice I would make

Thank you very much for the suggestions. I have Gators Grip (primarily for PE) but hadn’t thought of it. Like you I like the resilience instead of the brittle ca joints. I’m already thinking of doing another figure so I’ll give it a shot. It’s a lot easier to clean up than epoxy. I also have the MiG ammo version but I like the GG better 

we may have been somewhat at cross purposes too. I was also thinking about the best way to fix the figure to the painting base given its significant weight compared to a plastic figure. Thus the contact adhesive comment. The weight may be a bit much for gators grip. So far the heavyweight double sided tape is holding up.

Alan

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4 hours ago, CDW said:

Recommended by an expert modeler friend, I bought this glue specifically for attaching clear plastic parts due to its strength and crystal-clear finish. But I have found it's useful for other applications. The product claims to be a perfect rock-hard clear finish when diluted with water and used as a clear coat but I have not tried that yet for myself so I can't swear to it. I like the large quantity you get for the price as well as the applicator tip makes it easy to apply exactly where I want it. Try it, I think you will like it. Not an instant glue but dries reasonably quickly.

 

Amazon.com: Judikins GP005 Diamond Glaze, 2-Ounce

Thank you very much Craig.

That looks generally useful so I just ordered it (28% off too). It never ceases to amaze me how much expertise and knowledge is on this forum. On this project alone I’ve benefited from suggestions about nail brushes, adhesives, clamps and paint. Thank you all 

alan

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If you're going to transport your models in your car, in northern climes, the canopy glues and similar remain flexible for holding the details on your model. CA can get brittle and pop the part(s) off. Not the thing to happen if your model is in a contest. The canopy glues really do work.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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On 7/5/2024 at 8:44 AM, Canute said:

If you're going to transport your models in your car, in northern climes, the canopy glues and similar remain flexible for holding the details on your model. CA can get brittle and pop the part(s) off. Not the thing to happen if your model is in a contest. The canopy glues really do work.

Thank you Ken; that's good to know. Its been frustrating enough having things pop off on this build.

Alan

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I decided some more fiddling was necessary. I wasn't happy with the red stripes on the turban and sashes; they just looked painted on. So I went back and added a darker shade of red at the interface with the yellow and I think it improves things. Still some room for improvement; maybe I should have added something to define the line properly - next time. Unfortunately I see a bit of yellow to tidy up now

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I also used a tiny bit of putty to build up the wrist which was a bit distorted after the multiple falls and rebuilds. Its a little better.

I cut the white metal guidon off the lance and replaced it with a piece of foil which is much better. I added the top of the lance to the figure and, again, due to the shifts in the pose of the figure it doesn't line up too well. It will have to be displayed showing the side view which isn't too bad.

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Possibly drilling through the hand and using a single piece of brass with the bamboo nodes added would be a better option. There is a second chance. I like this figure and I learnt a lot painting it so I bought a second figure and would like to try again and hopefully do a better job.

I will touch up the turban and I think I will call these figures done. I want to complete the Flowers before attempting anything else. I get sidetracked too easily

Thanks to everyone for looking in and for the likes and all the helpful comments.

Alan

 

 

 

 

 

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Excellent work Alan,   I think figurework  is one of those mediums  where  practice  makes all the difference,  and  to  be honest  we are all our own  worst critics.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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The lancer looks good, Alan. The lance looks like one of my tulip poplars out back that survived an assault by the kudzu invasion. A bit of a curlicue in the trunk.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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On 7/6/2024 at 6:23 PM, Old Collingwood said:

Excellent work Alan,   I think figurework  is one of those mediums  where  practice  makes all the difference,  and  to  be honest  we are all our own  worst critics.

 

OC.

Thank you very much OC. The camera is an unflinching critic too. I was pleased with my first foray into figure painting and I learnt a lot. I plan on picking up another one shortly

Alan

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On 7/7/2024 at 8:25 AM, Canute said:

The lancer looks good, Alan. The lance looks like one of my tulip poplars out back that survived an assault by the kudzu invasion. A bit of a curlicue in the trunk.

Thank you Ken. I don't think he is going to win any tent pegging competitions with that lance tough.

 

Alan

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The daffadar has been moved to a display shelf and now I'm working on finishing the Flowers and associated diorama. I did enjoy working on these figures so while the paint was drying on the ships I did open a package and fiddle a bit

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Thank you for all the likes and supportive comments

 

Alan

 

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Is this the headless handless apparition that tormented ole Ichabod every night in Sleepy Hollow?  Certainly his attire is appropriate to the time. 

 

Interesting figure! Will be interested in seeing how you paint it. 

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He certainly looks like he could carry his head under his arms!

 

This is another Art Girona figure. From the Thirty Years War (1618 - 1648) he is a Spanish Arquebusier in the process of loading. It is another nicely sculpted piece. I’m toying with keeping the head separate during painting to see if it makes the work easier 

Alan

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Like Jack, I was looking for the pumpkin head for this figure.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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