HMS Sussex by mij - Scale 1:48

[shipmodel]

Hi Mij -

 

Frames looking good.  I will be following your progress with interest.

 

Is there a reason for using Copydex?  I looked it up and a 125 ml bottle (about 4.25 oz) costs almost $50, which is way more than any other adhesive that I know of.

 

I also looked up the Proxxon long neck tool, since it looked like it would be useful in shaping the solid hulls that I am building.  But it was a bit pricey and the reviews were almost uniformly negative.  Let us know what your experience is after you have used it for a while.

 

Dan

[mij]

Hi Dan

 

A very small dab of Coptdex is put on the top and bottom of the top and floor timbers just to hold them onto the paper template while the 1st futtock is glued on.

when the Titebond has set, the frame can be peeled away from the paper template and the Copydex can be rubbed off with your finger.

 

As for the Proxxon long neck tool, the Wife ask me what I wanted for my Birthday, and that is what I picked.

I will let you know how I get on with it.

 

mij

[mij]

Hi Dan

 

Over the pond, a 125 ml bottle of Copydex cost £2.54 ($1.57) and a 250 ml £4.63 (2.86).

 

mij

[shipmodel]

Mij -

 

That's what we pay for rubber cement that we use for the same purpose.  Just another example of how we are two countries divided by a common language.

 

Dan

[mij]

This is the 1st stage of fairing the outside and inside of the hull using a long neck grinder.

This is a fabulous tool to use, but a word of CAUTION, this tool can ruin your model if your not careful.

 

 

 

 

 

mij

[druxey]

You are a braver man than I, mij, to use power tools to fair! Personally I wouldn't risk messing up many hours of work by grinding a bit too much off. You must have nerves of steel. The model looks great so far.

[mij]

I`ve been building model ships and using power tools on them for a very long time now, and I believe if you fill confidant in yourself, you must give it a try, or your skill level stay as they are.

Thanks for the nice comment.

 

mij

[Jeronimo]

Hi mij,

a very nice ship.

I wish much success with building the model.

Karl

[mij]

I`m not happy with the Tulip wood I`m using to build H.M.S Sussex, the Tulip is a bit soft and has no depth.

So I`ve put what I`ve done so far to one side and will start again using Cherry that has more depth.

It`s a 2 to 3 year project, and I believe you must be happy with what you are doing to get the best out of yourself.

 

mij

[druxey]

Now that is a major decision! Not many folk would get so far along, then decide to re-start. My hat off to you, mij.

[shipmodel]

Hi Mij -

 

A very major step, as Druxey says.  But before you retire all of your excellent work so far, you might consider staining the tulipwood to get the depth of color that you are looking for.  Even basswood, which is at least as dull white as tulip, can be brought to an acceptable look with a judicious mix of colors.  I always use 50% uncolored or Natural (that's what Minwax calls it) to even out the stain and prevent blotchiness.  After that, just experiment with various stains till you get the one or combination that you like.

 

Whatever your choice, I will watch your progress with interest.

 

Dan

[mij]

I`m using a piece of Cherry 49" x 12" x 2" for the frames, which has to be cut on a bandsaw, as I don`t own a large bench saw.  

There will be about 40 lengths 2" x 7/16"  then each piece will be milled down to the right thickness, which does take a long time.

But if you enjoy your hobby, does time matter.

I know what the wife thinks.

 

 mij

[mij]

Thanks for your idea Dan, but do like the colour of natural wood, like Cherry.

 

 mij  

[egkb]

Wow, I completely agree with Druxey above!    Better to be happy now than regretful later.

 

Best of luck

 

Eamonn

Edit.. think a few more posts popped in there between my typing this and the post made by Druxey..

Edited November 13, 2013 by egkb

[dvm27]

I commiserate with you Mij. I decided to discard my first fully framed Swan model after one year because I was not happy with the quality of my earlier work. I rebuilt it in less than half the time and the results were definitely worth it. For some people the finished model is the destination, for others it's the journey that matters most.

[michael mott]

 

For some people the finished model is the destination, for others it's the journey that matters most.

Greg I could not agree with this statement more.

 

Mij, Definitely a major step, but it is oneself that one has to satisfy that the materials are giving the desired results.

 

Michael

[shipmodel]

Ahhh . . . to have the luxury of being able to savor the journey. . . my customers rarely care about the process.  Thankfully, I can come here to enjoy the journeys of my colleagues and friends. 

 

Be well

 

Dan

[mij]

Thanks for your support Gentleman.

Hopefully the timber will be cut and milled over this weekend.

 

 mij

[Wintergreen]

Ahhh . . . to have the luxury of being able to savor the journey. . . my customers rarely care about the process.  Thankfully, I can come here to enjoy the journeys of my colleagues and friends. 

 

Be well

 

Dan

Then of course Dan, you could build something for yourself in between and not always on commission...

then you could enjoy the journey as well as the final result.

 

Mij, I too know the feeling of putting a lot of hours in the scrap bin...just to remake and be happy. You have our support anyway!

[mij]

Cherry ready for the bandsaw

 

 

The cherry cut and ready to be milled.

 

 

It was worth the time and effort.

 

Tulip on the left and Cherry on the right

 

 

Start of the new build in cherry.

In the back ground is the one made from tulip.

 

[druxey]

Congratulations on your second start! I hope you'll be happy with the cherry this time.

[shipmodel]

Mij -

 

What machine did you use to resaw the cherry?  A band saw or table saw?  Can you show us the jig, please.

 

I will be following your build as avidly in cherry as in tulip.

 

Dan

[mij]

Hi Dan

 

The bandsaw is an old 3 wheel INCA, with a blade length of 104", which is capable of cutting 4" oak, for the milling I use a Proxxon DH 40 Planer Ticknesser (Ref: 27040).

The milling does take long time, but as you can see from the cherry, it was worth it.

 

 

 

mij

[mij]

My workshop is my garage, and with the UK winter ( a lot warmer than some of you guys )I`m finding the wood glue is not setting( I do have some heating in there ), so I`m having some time out on HMS Sussex until the summer.

I shall scratch build a P.O.B model half the size of HMS Sussex in the conservatory were it`s a lot warmer and the glue will set.

 

mij

[druxey]

If wood glue ever freezes, that can compromise it, mij. Is that a possibility?

[mij]

Hi Druxey

 

The wood glue don`t freeze. but I have found when it`s under 10c. I have a weak joint.

 

mij

[rafterrat_2005]

 Very nice, hats off to you, I am working on the same project. I am going to post a sander that can be fabricated very easily in the proper place modeling tools.

[mij]

I`ll look forward to seeing that.

 

mij

[Marsares]

I'm quite a number of years away from even considering my first scratch build although this is what I will be working towards, therefore I hope you don't mind if I tag along. Keen to learn as much as I can about this incredible hobby.

 

... and, the cherry does look nicer than the tulipwood to be honest. Wise choice, albeit a very brave one.

Edited January 27, 2014 by Marsares

[yancovitch]

woa happened?....noticed a few of these disappearing acts......hope nothing serious!.......