HMS Winchelsea 1764 by woodartist - 1:48

[woodartist]

I have ordered the keel, bulkheads and chapter one parts in yellow cedar and will start the journey.

[woodartist]

I have downloaded the plans and took those to the printer. They are huge!! Just realized how large this model really is. I do not have a wall space large enough to post them. I NEED TO COME UP WITH A SOLUTION FOR THAT,

I purchased a 12" x 36" piece of MDF to use as the base once the form parts arrive. I have read quite a few of the build logs and better appreciate how difficult this build will be. The common themes are to get everything exactly right at the beginning, take your time!!, read and reread the instructions, if you do not know what to do ask before doing something you are unsure about.

[woodartist]

The first shipment has arrived. Work/fun will commence immediately. The instructions have been printed and placed in three ring binder. Will commence preparation of the bulkheads with sanding them before removing them from plywood sheets.

[woodartist]

When I was removing the pieces for the build board I noticed that the laser had not completely burned thru one one sheet. The other two were fine. When I closely examined it, it became apparent that the root cause of this was that the piece of plywood had warped thus causing the problem. It just took a little more work with a fine exacto blade to cure the problem. This was also true on  one sheet of the bulkheads. The  head knee was my next project and it fit together wonderfully, I was surprised at the exactness of the fit. The tapering is now done, I think. I have yet to put in the gammon knee. I may have to taper some for that but we shall see. The three section keel boards are glued and drying.

[Chuck]

Lovely start to your model....enjoy the project!!!

[woodartist]

gammon installed. I followed Chuck's advice and only removed wood fro the back of the gammon. it was a lot of trips to Byrne's sander but it ended up just right.

Thanks Chuck.

 

[woodartist]

Added rabbit pieces with no difficulties.  Then progressed to adding pieces 1-4 of keel. They all fit perfectly except #1. It was a smidgen too long so I matched the angle of the piece, 15 degrees, and tilted the table to match, sanded it and it fit perfectly. I had previously fit the head knee. It took a bit more sanding to fit exactly, but not much, these pieces are very precisely cut with laser. I do not have enough weights so i have to be creative. My Ram rotary cutter motor, Drill with heavy battery, small metal anvil and in the little box is a bottle of mercury. That little box weighs more the the drill with battery. Amazing.

[woodartist]

Build board about done. Need to add base boards between struts. I used 2 1/2 inch 90 degree metal supports for my struts and glued a 4" basswood strip on each one. I tried to build wood ones, however, I could not get them to have the same gap at the top as the bottom. So I used the metal ones which solved the problem. I tested them with square and I did have to tweak 2 to get the gap identical. Once tweaked they held the same gap.

[woodartist]

The tree nails were installed. I used 20lb nylon fishing leader. I used a 74 bit to drill the holes. The first picture is 6.7 magnification, the 2nd is 1.5 magnification. The last is after sanding and application of wipe on poly (oil based).

[Chuck]

Nicely done

[glbarlow]

Nice to see new Winchelsea underway. Welcome to the club!

Edited July 27 by glbarlow

[Trussben]

Nice Progress.

[woodartist]

When I started this journey I decided to read all the build logs of those members who had completed the Winchelsia. Then I started to have some questions about how to proceed with certain steps and I did not find the answers in the building logs of those that had finished but when I started reading the build logs of those that started and quit, those the had restarted one or more times and those that were struggling but continued to make progress I gained some very valuable tips and insights I did not find in the logs of those that had finished. A realization became clear, many of those that had finished were so experienced and talented that what us mere mortals were struggling with were not issues they ever experienced. However, those same super stars, were the first to offer guidance and help to those mere mortals. Going forward I will look for those gems in the logs of those yet to finish. I have reached the dry fit stage, getting ready to start glueing the bulkheads into place. 

[Chuck]

Ask a lot of questions and you will get to the answers from a whole score of folks who have finished the model or are further along.   Ask them in your log....thats what this group is all about!!!

[Katsumoto]

Super stars on MSW have a talent to ask for help when needed and share knowledge to those who ask or need. Just proceed, keep asking, applying the given knowledge and pass on to others so new future superstars will emerge. 🙂 You are doing great by the way on your Winnie project.

[glbarlow]

I think you’ll find almost everyone regardless of where they are in completion progress are willing to help. A bit unfair I think to label them as you have.  I write my logs with the intent to pass on what I’ve learned or how I did some step.  By the same token I have benefitted by following others. Ask away. 
 

We may not have found your log, ask questions on their logs.  There are lots of tricky places along the way that we may not get without some help. 

Edited August 1 by glbarlow

[woodartist]

1 minute ago, glbarlow said:

I think you’ll find almost everyone regardless of where they are in completion progress are willing to help. A bit unfair I think to label them as you have.  I write my logs with the intent to pass on what I’ve learned or how I did some step.  Y the same token I have benefitted by following others. Ask away. 
 

We may not have found your log, ask questions on their logs. 

glbarlow, I was not suggesting that anyone was unwilling to help. I was in fact complimenting those that know for helping those that did not know. I was just saying that the answers to a lot of questions are found in the build logs of those who are struggling because they are seeking help. The superstars are the ones providing the help. I was just highlighting that those answers can be found in the build logs of those struggling so do not ignore those build logs. I have found everyone here to be of great assistance and free to pass on their knowledge.

[Trussben]

I see your from Sequim woodartist? its been a several years since I was last over that way, We almost bought a house on Bell Hill at the time, The Oasis bar still open?

Edited August 8 by Trussben

[FrankWouts]

Welcome, enjoy and have fun with this lovely project, woodartist!
I'll be following with great interest!
Frank.

[woodartist]

I made a mistake in sanding some of the bulkheads at the very tip next to the rabbit. I consulted with Chuck, he made a suggestion that I add another 1/4" piece next to the existing one that reaches the rabbit. I looked at another members log who had done that too. I did not like the looks of it so I bit the bullet and got all new bulkheads and started over. I have now gotten all the bulkheads dry fit and they all reach the rabbit. The only issue I have now is that it appears that on bulkhead A the lazer etched reference mark is just slightly lower than the other reference marks. See below. However; the line up with the rabbit is spot on and the top of the bulkhead is level with the keel board. Is this acceptable or do I need to do something to correct it. The rest of the reference marks all all fine.

[glbarlow]

Once faired the reference marks are just a guide, a good guide, but just a guide.  As you’ll see in other logs, running long thin battens become the means to mark wales and ports once faired. If all the bulkheads are firmly seated (even across the top deck area and flush with center keel board) across the top and squared you’ll be fine. The bow pieces, not installed yet on yours, can be supplemented with balsa to aid planking the curve of the tricky bow area. 

Edited August 8 by glbarlow

[woodartist]

thanks Glen, I will glue them in then.

[woodartist]

glue up started

[woodartist]

Glue up completed and commenced sanding away the char and started the fairing. I thought I might be able to use a Scotch Brite pad for removing char on a charcoal grill to get the char off. I cut out a couple one inch squares and and secured them to a bit that fits in my rotary carver. They did not work. So I used my diamond flat file first then a 120 and 220  sand paper to start the process. A long way to go!!

[glbarlow]

Remember you are creating the hull. It’s less about char remove and more about shaping. I left the back edge of the char from midships forward o the bow and the front edge from midships to the stern until the very last to keep from losing the proper shape.  It’s a good time to look at multiple other logs at this stage and see what they learned, one is in general power tools aren’t the best option, it’s elbow grease time. 
 

Keep those scouring pads, they are useful for char removal later.

Edited August 11 by glbarlow

[woodartist]

2 hours ago, glbarlow said:

It’s less about char remove and more about shaping. I left the back edge of the char from midships forward o the bow and the front edge from midships to the stern until the very last to keep from losing the proper shape.

Thanks for the reminder. I will follow that advice.

[Trussben]

I agree with Glenn, you are not removing char, you are fairing the hull shape!

take your time with this and do not use power tools as it’s far too easy to take too much off.

Use a flexible battern regularly to check for smooth transitions and fairness.

[woodartist]

I have been working since the 4th of July to put in the upper and lower sills, the gun port framing, and fairing the hull. It was hard work and a lot of sanding. In a couple of spots I was too aggressive sanding and had to redo a couple of sills and add a little filler too. I still may need to fair a little more in the area near the rudder but I was cautious about being too aggressive. I have started on the stern frames. Frankly, the stern frames are daunting. Securing al the pieces in place before gluing is a real challenge. Question: are all the stern frames to be level with each other  or is it only necessary to get the pairs level?

[Trussben]

Print out the stern frame plans and use as a template to get correct athwartships orientation, to hold the frames while you adjust, if they are too loose in the slots - use some scotch tape to make them a touch thicker or just a very small dab of white glue will do the trick, spend A LOT of time getting this right as if you don’t your quarter galleries will be wrong and stern light spacing which throws off the entire build and look!

Print out the side plans and use them for correct orientation fore/aft of the framing.

Again - spend weeks not hours getting this right.

Im sure Chuck and others will offer plenty of advice if you ask for it.

 

seems it’s just you and me making regular updates on our Winnies lately!

 

ben

Edited September 8 by Trussben

[jfhealey]

20 hours ago, Trussben said:

seems it’s just you and me making regular updates on our Winnies lately!

Don't say that Ben! Though there may be an element of truth in it. I'm following everyone with interest and will update my Winnie post in a day or two or maybe three. But I will certainly update.

Best wishes to both of you.

Fred