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Hooker Ship 82 ft. by Rik Buter - scale 1 : 64 - 1757 design Pieter Pauluszoon van Zwijndregt - first wooden ship build


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Rik, I wholeheartedly agree with you about Mr. Hovings books. I have 5 of them and my interest in the Twikkelo was actually sparked by one of those. That book being "Message in a model", chapter 12 introduced me to P. Van Zwijndregts work.

I'm very interested in the period and P. Van Zwijndregt.

Thats why I was so pleasantly surprised to see your log and subject. You're making a very fine ship.

 

Ab, thank you for your response. I'm sorry to hear that the book has been sold out. I will defenitly have to look for a second hand copy then, because I like to read books as a physical medium. 

But I would also like to take you up on your offer!

I'd love to see the draughts and any other information you might have.

Your knowledge and expertise would be invaluable to me!

 

,Rutger

 

 

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                               H82-24.jpg.7a282cb78ecaa6d716ea4271a13e0c46.jpg

 

Some more planking. Along the sides of the hull I don't need to do any trimming. Merely some curving with the travel iron like I explained in post # 13. But after the side of the hull turns towards the stem- and sternposts, I trim the planks from 4 to 3 mm.

After I rounded the bilge, I started to plank from the keel upwards.

 

H82-25.jpg.debd1c13e096546f6b52273b1b5a50bc.jpg

 

The two planks above the keel go over the sternpost and make that area plane or level (I hope that is proper English).

 

 

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 Very nice. 

Current Builds: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver 

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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Thanks guys.

 

     H82-29.jpg.a6f98bde19c349268147cfa0f04945c6.jpg

 

Before I started planking, I calculated there were going to be 19 strakes down from the wales to the keel, including the garboard strake. So I tried to make the distribution along the stem- and sternpost as even as possible. It turned out that was hard to accomplish. At such a small scale it is matter of tenths of millimetres per strake. As you can see the last few are out of proportion. It did work out though on the broadside of the ship.

 

              H82-30.jpg.3091f0f390a30941d147e0fbfd13cb6b.jpg

 

Here you can see how even the empty strip for the last two strakes is and I hardly had to do any trimming for that, besides at the very last ends of the strakes at the bow and stern. I also didn't need to put in any steelers. There is some severe curving of the planks going on though. I mean in the length direction. That was quite hard to do and in those areas I was unable to put the planks in tight. In one area the planks needed to be curved, then bend and started to be trimmed. That is why I don't think the planking on a real hooker ship was carried out in this fashion. So although there were benefits, in hindsight I think I chose the wrong  planking-trajectory for that matter.

 

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achtersteven01.jpg.ef91b06f47f6559bff947b34be715779.jpg

 

I wanted to post a few pictures which show a planking method that is probably closer to the way it really was done. When I saw images like these for the first time, I thought that the way the strakes are running was more of an artists interpretation. If you look at the first strake underneath the wales, it tapers off into a point shape right around the corner of the hull. First of all that would be hard to make. Second it would be hard to fasten against the frames. If you put a nail or peg in it, it would split easily. And third it would always stay a vulnerable part of the hull. But apparently they did use this kind of solution. The other day I heard a short lecture of Kroum Batcharov in which he tells us there is evidence in excavated ship wrecks that shows us that.

 

See here a beautiful watercolour of a galliot by Gerrit Pompe made in 1688 (70 years earlier though) which shows the same run of the strakes.

 

achtersteven03.jpg.37d407651ec3522576f4236f69233360.jpg

 

It would never result in an even distribution of the strakes along the sternpost though, and it would definitely require the use of multiple steelers.

 

Here is one more example on a real contemporary model. 

 

achtersteven02.jpg.6ccb0155b1e3441536727f000c1f2944.jpg

 

greetings

 

 

 

 

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H82-31.jpg.c735eb2600eb3d7b3a8bede1e1d1a5ec.jpg

 

After the planking was finished, I painted the hull and applied the first wash. 

 

H82-32.jpg.2cd7ccd25a351623f59483bfca263bf7.jpg

 

Then I went on to draw the waterline.

 

H82-33a.jpg.4514e2cf00cb953e976621a1a17b3d23.jpg

 

But then I remembered that on the drawings of the van de Veldes the wales always dip into the water for a while at the lowest point.

 

vandevelde.jpg.54645b572fcccd866d28d46b45ab271e.jpg

 

Like in this drawing of an English yacht of about the same dimensions as the hooker ship. So I decided to put on another waterline.

 

H82-33b.jpg.9a66e18078524c9ff6410b878170db50.jpg

 

Then I painted it, but I made the mistake to use acrylic paint. 

 

H82-34.jpg.a49444d2eea157d2f8c926ce4721b88a.jpg

 

My plan was to apply several thin coates and keep it somewhat transparent. Normally when you paint a painting, acrylic paint is well suited for making transparent layers or glazing. However here on the model it dried so quickly that I couldn't get an even coat without stains. Also sanding it slightly down didn't work out well because acrylic paint is just a plastic coat on top of the wood. It doesn't penetrate. I should have used an oil based paint.

So in order to get a nice and plain coloured bottom of the ship, I had to apply three layers which made the coat way too thick.

Also the second waterline turned out to be too high. I tried to find images from which I could determine the waterline better.

 

hoeker-schilder.jpg.4e55ecf6643b92b794661cb407a18e9a.jpg

 

I found out that in most images the waterline is at least one or two planks lower than the lower wales. So I carefully scraped off the paint again, down to the first waterline I drew. It became a bit of a mess. 

 

H82-35.jpg.71f0224afe9b77cc85640cc8e2253137.jpg

 

By the way I added a thin 1mm. strip of wood underneath the railing. I kept that white.

 

H82-36.jpg.6e80a538ca27854e21a670d41b64e777.jpg

 

A coat of Osmo decor wax - oak colour goes on top of everything.

 

 

Edited by Rik Buter
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