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FW 200 V3 Condor by king derelict - FINISHED - Roden - 1/144


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Well, this is turning out to be a humbling experience. Hopefully a learning experience too. My first encounter with metallic paints.

I'm using the Vallejo acrylic aluminium paint. For some reason lacquer paints frighten me. The Vallejo paint went on well in thin coats although I think it was drying too fast in the heat of my garage. Maybe I should experiment with some retarding fluid. Its not as good as Alclad but it does have a reasonable shine. It may have benefited from one more coat too but I was a bit concerned with the paint pooling or drying rough. Its okay for a first attempt.

I have learnt that you can't hide anything under a metal finish. I thought I had the primer down nicely but I can see all sorts of minor imperfections.. So now I am adding the black decals on the wings and along the fuselage sides. The fuselage one broke in three pieces but I managed to piece it together and my masking sems to have been accurate - the decal covers the masked area with no gaps (so far). I am doing a few decals at a time because I don't want to risk moving ones as I handle it.

The acrylic rod shows up tomorrow, the props need adding and the base needs to be completed

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Thanks for looking in and for the likes and comments

 

Alan

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Thats a good rescue  there  mate,   looking  nice  from  where  I am.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Thanks Mike

I need to get better at metal finishes. The extensive decals help cover up some of the blemishes. Hopefully I can make the stand work to pull it together. Roden seem a bit hit and miss. I have made some great kits but this is not one of them😄

Alan

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On 8/16/2024 at 3:08 PM, Old Collingwood said:

Thats a good rescue  there  mate,   looking  nice  from  where  I am.

 

OC.

Thank you very much OC.

The decal work is taking a while but only three more to go now

I hope the laptop keyboard issue is getting sorted

Alan

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2 hours ago, king derelict said:

Thank you very much OC.

The decal work is taking a while but only three more to go now

I hope the laptop keyboard issue is getting sorted

Alan

Thank you Alan,   yep  kind  of  - I am  having to use  the  on screen keyboard  for  certain letters  and commands,  and  the  highlight key with delete  if I miss  spell  or space  something wrong.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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I've been experimenting with the base and sorting out problems with interactions between paint / glue and inkjet printing so things have been a bit slow here.

Anyway the decaling was finished with mixed results. The decals for the engines and the fuselage stripes were nice and accurate and went on well apart from a tendency to break into pieces. The two that wrap round the cockpit and nose were another matter entirely. They seemed very oversize and misshaped. I had a lot of trimming to do and even then they were not a great fit and eventually I gave up and blended it all in with some black freehand brushwork. A clearcoat is now in place. I need to paint the exhausts, maybe some black wash and add the props to complete the model.

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So; the base. The idea is to display the model over a period map. I didn't like the maps of Germany I found so I went for a 1939 map of central Berlin. I mirrored the map and printed onto one of those bits of history, an overhead project slide. This means the printing is on the underside of the slide when mounted.

I let it sit for a day or so and then airbrushed  Vallejo metallic aluminium acrylic over the printing. The paint seems to cause the inkjet print to go a bit sepia which is a nice benefit. On the test piece I did it a bit early and it faded excessively.

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This will then be laid on top of the black painted base 

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Thanks for looking in and the likes and comments

Alan

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You have done  a really good  job  considering   the issues  you had mate,  loving the  idea  for the dio,   have you seen  those   moving prop  type  ideas  some  make  - I think some  have used  card  painted  to  look  like  discs  or even  the bend  affect  props  some times show.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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20 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

You have done  a really good  job  considering   the issues  you had mate,  loving the  idea  for the dio,   have you seen  those   moving prop  type  ideas  some  make  - I think some  have used  card  painted  to  look  like  discs  or even  the bend  affect  props  some times show.

 

OC.

Thank you OC. I tried the clear disc idea but decied to just accept the anomaly of being in flight with stopped props. It sort of works.

Alan

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So this is where we end up. I trimmed the map and glued it to the top of the base with a thin coat of white glue. I chose the centre of town, Brandenberg Tor, Reichstag, Unter Den Linden etc

The model was mounted and secured with a touch more of the white glue. I painted the engine exhausts and added a touch of exhaust staining. I'm guessing The Chief wouldn't tolerate a very dirty aircraft.

The props have been added 

 

I'm not sure what to think about this one. It came out somewhat as I planned but it wasn't the nicest kit to make and its not terribly detailed even though I know it 1/144 scale. The Mikro Mir Argosy is a much better kit from that point of view (although it is not easy either). So it doesn't feel terribly rewarding to finish - more of a relief. Maybe doing it in the Russian winter paint might have been better but this was to be my first shallow dip into metal finishes and I learnt a lot.

 

Thanks for looking in and providing support

 

Alan

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That  really works  very nicely  mate.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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17 hours ago, AJohnson said:

Well done Alan, I like the mount and street plan base, very clever. 

Thank you very much Andrew. I wanted an inflight display. I think the Condor along with the Britannia and the Constellation is one of the more graceful aircraft.

Alan

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You metal finish is in scale and look good, at a bigger scale you would have to get finer with it but it's a nice result for getting your feet wet in BMF's... The presentation isn't bad either, not too many do in flight displays anymore....

 

Well done...

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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4 hours ago, Egilman said:

You metal finish is in scale and look good, at a bigger scale you would have to get finer with it but it's a nice result for getting your feet wet in BMF's... The presentation isn't bad either, not too many do in flight displays anymore....

 

Well done...

Thank you very much EG. I need to work on my primer I think to get a better finish. I have a couple of 1/72 aircraft that I hope to improve for. Possiby a larger scale map of the Reichstag area might have been better. Uh oh - I can smell burning.😄

 

Alan

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Hey Alan, after my marathon sprint on my JRS-1, I've been catching up on everyone's build logs.  This came out great!  Roden kits can be really tricky from what I've heard in terms of fit and decals.  You did a nice job for a difficult kit!  I think I mentioned this on my JRS-1 log, but if you ever want to do your Roden Felixstowe, I have two and could build alongside you if you'd like.  I think you mentioned you have a Roden Gotha as well - if you build that one, I can build my Zeppelin Staaken and we can tackle the two beasts together.

 

A couple of things I thought I'd pass along, though feel free to ignore this unsolicited information.  For filling gaps and holes, I use different materials depending on the situation mostly to deal with potential shrinkage.  For small holes or cracks where shrinkage doesn't matter, I use Tamiya putty - I've also used Vallejo putty, Mr Putty, and CA (some people use black medium/thick CA so they can see what overflow needs to be sanded off which seems like a good idea).  I've actually started using CA more and more for small gap filling, as you can add it to an area, and before it's fully cured you can start sanding off the excess fairly easily making cleanup fairly simple.

 

Larger gaps are always tricky.  I usually try to stuff thin pieces of plastic in the gap to fill up as much as possible.  In some cases, that can be enough or you can fill the remainder with Mr. Putty, CA, etc.  On my JRS-1, I also started using Tamiya's two-part epoxy putty.  That is now one of my favorite approaches to larger gaps or even to build up areas where there is a depression because it (1) doesn't shrink (or at least doesn't appear to), (2) it is very strong and won't crumble, yet when dry sands very easily, (3) takes a while to dry so you can take your time working it into the area, and (4) isn't messy like Tamiya putty.  I guess like all materials, it's just getting used to the strengths and weaknesses of the products and having a little experience on what works best in certain situations for you.

 

On the metal finishes, I really love Vallejo's Metal Colors for their ease of use, clean up, etc.  For me, it will spray perfect 98% of the time, but then there are times when it just doesn't look right.  Sometimes that's a result of spraying too high of a pressure or too close, where it's almost like the paint doesn't want to adhere properly so you get a weird darker spot.  Once I learned about the pressure/closeness issue, I made sure to avoid that and still would occasionally get those odd spots.  Not sure what caused it - maybe oils from my fingers?  Who knows.  For my JRS-1, I tried Mr Color Super Metallic 2 series.  I absolutely loved it - sprayed really easily and evenly, and as a lacquer, but on a good hard shell for decals, taping, etc.  I sprayed it over a base coat of Mr Color GX 2 Ueno Black per recommendations I saw online and was very happy.  So, I think that line of Mr Color will be my go-to for larger areas where you need a pristine finish like fuselages.  I'll continue to use Vallejo on smaller items like engines and the like.  Also, I was able to use the Vallejo paints to do some minor touch ups on the Mr Color and it worked perfectly - I found you can brush paint the Metal Color paints, but the Mr. Color paints aren't meant to be brushed.  For what it's worth, apparently, there is an earlier line of Mr. Color metallic paints that are meant to be buffed, but I forget what those are.  

 

Anyway, I'm still very much in the learning phase on all this, but thought I'd pass along what I learned on my last couple of builds.  Looking forward to your next one!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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4 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Hey Alan, after my marathon sprint on my JRS-1, I've been catching up on everyone's build logs.  This came out great!  Roden kits can be really tricky from what I've heard in terms of fit and decals.  You did a nice job for a difficult kit!  I think I mentioned this on my JRS-1 log, but if you ever want to do your Roden Felixstowe, I have two and could build alongside you if you'd like.  I think you mentioned you have a Roden Gotha as well - if you build that one, I can build my Zeppelin Staaken and we can tackle the two beasts together.

Hi Mike

Thats a great idea. Mutual support may be the deciding factor for the Felixtowe kits and I could use the push to make the commitment. I've liked the Roden vehicle kits but the Condor was not one of their best. It was also my first attempt at 1/144 scale which probably didn't help.

Thank you so much for the detail about filling gaps. I appreciate the time it must have taken to compile the information. I have ordered some thin plastic card to try next time. The Mr Dissolved Putty shrank considerably and needed several applications. It did sand down nicely though. I think I would have been better off with shaved down plastic card. I am a bit cautious about CA; the fumes tend to bother me if I use it a lot but I have now got some Bob Smith Gold odourless CA and that does seem to be something I can use. I will try it on the next gap.

Thank you also for the advice on metallic paints. I really liked the ease of using the Vallejo Metallics and they look quite good. I need to really improve my game with the priming to ensure I get a really smooth surface to work from.

It is amazing how much there is to learn in this hobby. So many techniques and I am very grateful that people are so happy to share.

Alan

 

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