Couple of modeling related painting questions

[AmateurModelBuilder]

Right now im a pretty novice builder, so im asking this so I dont need to do this later. What kind of masking tape do you use, store bought or special tape for models? What paints do you use, I know its mostly acrylics but is it modeling paint (like Occre or Tamiya) or woodworking paint. Do I need to prime the hull of my ship before painting or is it just fine to immediatly start painting with base paint and the putting on other layers? As I continue building ships I really want them to turn out as best as I can make them, Il be grateful for any tip or answer you leave here.

[JacquesCousteau]

If you search a bit, there are a lot of posts asking these same questions, and a lot of different answers. On tape, Tamiya masking tape works very well and their "for curves" tape can be curved to follow a waterline--something impossible with other tapes, making it very useful. The most important thing with masking is to burnish the edge by running something over it (I use the round non-brush end of a paintbrush) and to first paint over the edge of the tape with some sort of matte transparent paint or varnish. This will seal any gaps and prevent paint from seeping under the tape.

 

On paint and primer, everyone seems to have their own way of doing things. Many use Vallejo or Tamiya modeling acrylics, which seem to have a wide range of colors. I use cheap craft acrylics and mix different colors. In either case, you want to thin your paint (check if you do this with water, alcohol, or something else) a good bit and use multiple coats. Your first coat will look terrible, but you'll sneak up on a nice finish after several coats. Painting this way avoids the out-of-scale effects of a thick coat of paint, and helps to preserve detail under the paint. And that's not to mention that a lot of people have success doing interesting things with enamels or other types of paints.

 

As for priming, it really depends. In general, woods take paint pretty well and you don’t need a primer for paint adhesion (as you would for metal or plastic), but it can have other uses. Paint can raise the grain on wood (especially on basswood), so you'll usually have to sand after your basecoat to get a smooth finish. Applying some sort of sealer at the start can be useful for this, as well as to prevent gaps from forming if the wood expands and shrinks over time from humidity differences. If you're painting a light final coat and your wood is really varied in color, it could be useful to even things out with a gray basecoat.

 

In general, I'd recommend just checking out what people do in build logs, see what effects you like, consider what's feasible for you, and copy that.

[palmerit]

Definitely Tamiya tape. It's not only worked for me but I've found Youtube videos doing comparisons. Way better than frog tape (or regular masking tape). It's pricey but you don't use much of it. As noted, it comes in a bunch of widths. I use the narrow for curves, wider for when I just want to mask areas off. 

 

I opted to buy an Iwata Airbrush and have used Vallejo air paints. I also have some Vallejo brush paints. Airbrushing is a luxury (and if you're inside you want a booth to exhaust fumes) but it really does a nice job making a smooth coat. I've been working on a Vanguard (Sherbourne) model and painted some of the wood that had etchings on it and the etchings with airbrushing show perfectly. I'm sure someone with a deft hand could achieve that with a brush (especially if you thin the paint and do multiple layers). It's easier with an airbrush (once you learn how to use it). An airbrush is probably in the same category as a lathe (or a mill) in that it's certainly not necessary but nice to have (I have yet to splurge on a lathe or mill but have bought some other "unnecessary" toys).

 

You definitely want to research the right primer for painting PE parts - lots of models come with them. You can't just use regular primer. I researched a bit on YouTube (the Fine Scale Modeler channel has a comparison) and on their recommendation got Tamiya Surface Primer (even though I use Vallejo paints). Regular acrylic primer doesn't work on PE.

[palmerit]

32 minutes ago, JacquesCousteau said:

The most important thing with masking is to burnish the edge by running something over it (I use the round non-brush end of a paintbrush) and to first paint over the edge of the tape with some sort of matte transparent paint or varnish.

@JacquesCousteau I haven't heard about the "burnish the edge" trick. Is that after it's laid down on the surface?

[JacquesCousteau]

1 hour ago, palmerit said:

@JacquesCousteau I haven't heard about the "burnish the edge" trick. Is that after it's laid down on the surface?

Yep, just making sure that it's properly stuck down to get rid of any gaps. You can use your finger, but a hard, rounded shape works best.

[serpe]

When I use masking tape I lay it out on a glass plate and trim it with an exacto knife and ruler. That way I get a clean edge. Once layed out in the place you want lightly run your finger over the tape. Not too much as to move it. Next use a putty knife to burnish it down. Once again not too much pressure. Paint away from the tape so you reduce the amount bleed under. If your air brushing blast away from the tape edge to reduce the same. I use Frog or 3M. The thinnest tape you can get your hands on will work the best. Just be aware if you use too much paint when you remove the tape you will get a raised paint line when you remove the tape. Light coats work the best.  

[vaddoc]

There is a paint section/thread with good info, have a look.

Paint will bleed under ordinary masking tape or electrician tape, you need frog/Tamiya or similar. This tape must be carefully stored so edges do not get destroyed.

 

For wood there is no adhesion issues but a primer will give a uniform colour on the surface. It is important to seal the wood though - many use Shellac and methylated spirits, I use decoart Americana water based sealer.

 

Test on scrap wood, not the model!

 

Vaddoc

[Dr PR]

I know this has bee said many times, but it is worth repeating.

 

1. First paint one color on one side of the masking line and a little beyond.

2. Then apply the masking tape and other masking material.

3. Now paint along the edge of the masking tape with the first color. If it bleeds under the tape it doesn't matter. But the paint will seal the edge of the tape so the second color cannot bleed under the tape.

4. Then paint the second color.

[ERS Rich]

Tape: Tamiya

Sealer: Shellac, Rattle Can, or brush

Stain: Oil Base, Brudh

Paint: Vallejo - Airbrush

[kurtvd19]

On 3/7/2025 at 11:44 AM, JacquesCousteau said:

You can use your finger, but a hard, rounded shape works best.

I use the top - smooth side of my thumbnail to burnish the tape down.  Avoid using the bare finger because you can transfer skin oils to the surface causing issues with the paint adhesion.