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Posted (edited)

Many on the Forum seem to prefer super glue to other cements. I dislike it!

 

I guess I am jinxed when it comes to super glue. I have purchased maybe six tubes in my lifetime. Of the first three one hardened in the tube before I ever got to use it. I used only a few drops from the other two before they became solid.

 

The only good luck I have had with it was recently. I bought a tube of Loctite gel in a fancy applicator "bottle." This was just a plastic shell with things on the sides that squeezed an ordinary tube of glue inside. I used it between one and two dozen times before the cap became glued to the tip. While trying to get the cap off the tube began turning in the plastic shell. This twisted the tube about half way along its length, trapping about half of the remaining glue in the bottom. I eventually disassembled the thing and found the top half hardened. I poked a hole in the bottom half of the tube to get a couple more drops. Then the rest hardened.

 

Superglue.jpg.db32e0eea52eb7443bfc66d8013cced2.jpgThen I bought these two tubes a couple of days ago. The instructions said to screw the end/cap pair onto the tube to puncture the thin metal diaphragm on the top of the tube. Try as I may it didn't work with the tube on the left. So I tried to puncture the diaphragm with a sharp metal point - it wouldn't puncture! The entire brand new tube was rock hard!

 

The second tube was still pliable so the glue inside was still liquid. I tried to open the second tube and the cap would not screw on straight and puncture the diaphragm. I punctured the diaphragm with a metal point and used the end/cap from the first tube.

 

So far I have gotten three small drops of glue from this second tube.

 

So out of six tubes of superglue I have purchased only one gave me at least half a tube of glue before it hardened. Two were hardened before I opened them. Two more solidified shortly after I opened them.

 

Considering the relatively high cost of this stuff, it has cost me two to three dollars per drop. That is extremely expensive!

 

 

Apparently other people have had better luck and have actually been able to use super glue regularly. Does anyone ever get to use an entire tube before it hardens? What's the secret?

 

****

 

Of course there is the other problem with super glue - the fumes are very irritating! Many glues have odors, but super glue is the worst!

 

****

 

I have several other types of glues and these last for years after opening. I have even emptied some of the containers while the glue was still good!

Edited by Dr PR

Phil

 

Current build: Vanguard Models 18 foot cutter

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted (edited)

I was with you on how bad the packaging of CA was, until I tried this:

 

511FxR6HdmL._AC_CR0000_SX480_SY360_.jpg.fd2af563924a50d8f36db534b773e883.jpg

 

I've been using it, a tiny bit at a time, for months, and the glue still comes out as well as it did when I first opened it. I don't know what magic they're doing in that nozzle and cap, but it works.

 

(I'm not using that skinny pointy add-on spout; I just put a drop on a plastic scrap and use a pointy tool to transfer a tiny bit to where I need it.)

Edited by Dan Poirier
Add photo
Posted

I've been using Lepage's CA for years, both liquid and gel, in these small 2ml tubes. Never hardened in the tube except once when I stepped away from a model for nearly a year. On the other hand, once you puncture the end foil with the screw cap, I find I get nice glue for the first few squeezes, then a  bit of air, then glue again but the tube is really collapsed. Kind of like a bag of potato chips.

 

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/lepage-gel-multi-purpose-super-glue-adhesive-no-drip-dries-clear-2-x-2ml/1001537908

Posted

I've used Gorilla CA glue - gel for come applications, micro precise for others - and never had them dry up. I've also used Zap thin CA glue and haven't had a problem.

 

I did have that happen to me "pre-modeling" with other brands of CA glue; I ended up just buying the small single use superglue tubes, which looked kind of like what you have. I treated them as single use and just tossed them after using them because they'd dry up.

Posted

I've used the Loctite gel in the fancy applicator bottle to the end of the bottle.   For me, the more likely failure is for the glue to take longer and longer to cure after opening the package, as the glue ages.  Is Corvallis, Oregon particularly humid?  Superglue cures by chemical reaction using moisture in the air.  Maybe a particularly humid environment makes it more likely to harden before being used up.

 

Posted

I have used C/A glue by Bob Smith Industries (BSI) for over 20 years with complete satisfaction.  Many places sell BSI glues under the stores name.  Same design of the label except for a silver label with the store's name on it across the top.  This is a very high quality glue and if properly stored will last a very long time.  Recap when done for the day and keep it away from excess humidity.  Dole out a few drops and recap using a C/A applicator until the drops dry up or run out.  I buy several bottles at a time and keep the sealed up glue in my shop freezer for a couple of years sometimes.  Open it and it works perfectly.

The only problem I have ever had have been because of forgetting to recap the bottle for an extended time or keeping an open bottle in close proximity to C/A accelerator for an extended time.  I try to keep the accelerator far away from the C/A being used - at least 2 feet.

I keep several types of the BSI C/A glues as they have very different by very repeatable and predictable setting times.  I mostly use the Super Thin and Gap Filling Medium glues in 1oz bottles. 

I also use the BSI Epoxy glues for all my epoxy needs.

 

I forgot to add a tip to working with C/A glue and other odors that has made my life much better since I found a small 6" fan that I have on a shelf at the back of the workbench and to my left that I turn on whenever working with glues or soldering.  I used to get bad headaches when I used C/A glues even with lots of space, good ventilation, ceiling fan and windows in good weather.  I aim the fan to blow the fumes away from my face and this has eliminated the headaches.

 

Kurt

 

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

Posted

Yeah, I've never had a good experience with the little tubes of CA. It wasn't until I acquired a bottle of Gorilla Glue that I found CA to be a reliable option. I also found that the Gorilla smelled less than other brands. I acquired the two bottles of 'GH1200' glue over a year ago because they were much cheaper than Gorilla and they're still going strong. I also discovered that the thin glue had a much stronger odor than the thick. When using the gel I typically put a glob on a piece of aluminum foil and use a toothpick to apply it. For the thin, I do use one of the thin micro nozzles that can be slipped over the bottle's tip. That also cuts down on the odor. Nevertheless, the older the glue, the longer the drying time.

glues.jpg.b1bd23c59d8ec086f8fdfdd5e41111bd.jpg

Posted

Key for me is using the very fine tips I bought on Amazon.  A ton of them for very little money. I get rid of the cap and just use a nozzle. I leave it on between uses. Even over night. If it clogs I just cut a tiny bit of the tip and it's ready to go.

Bill

20250518_173214.jpg

Posted

I use both the blue cap and the green Gorilla Glue. Most of the ship's I build tar above the deadeyes,  so much liberty is takin with the glue because I tar all my shrouds  from the deadeyes to the platforms.  But that's me lol. I will add , put Vaseline on the stem of the glue bottle,  it help keep the cap lose, it does want to get stuck on at times.    :cheers:

Bob  M.

"Start so you can Finish!" 

In progress:

Astrolabe 1812 - Mantua 1:50; Golden Hind - 1578-Air Fix.

In queue:

Pegasus - Amati 1:64 

Completed:

The Dutchess of Kingston - 1:64 Vanguard Models 🙂 
Santa Maria - 1:64, La Pinta - 1:64, La Nina - 1:64, Hannah Ship in a Bottle - 1:300, The Mayflower - 1:64, Viking Ship Drakkar -1:50 all by Amati. King of the Mississippi - Artesania Latina - 1:80  Queen Anne's Revenge - Piece Cool - 1:300  The Sea of Galilee Boat - Scott Miller - 1:20

Posted

Here's my "everything glue" picture.  Previously, whenever I needed to use CA, I grabbed the Gorilla Super Glue with the Micro-precision nozzle.  But, for the past few years, I have been using the Bob Smith Industries cyanoacrylate products, and have the extra thick, the gap filling medium and the super thin.  To be honest, the super thin is really hard for me to control, so don't use it as much, but need to keep using it.  They are great CA solutions, when needed.  To apply, I grab a small wax paper square out of my stock (held with the clothes pin) and place a dab or so on the wax paper and use a thin toothpick.

 

For my diluted glue supply, I have a bottle of PH Neutral PVA that I keep diluted in a small squeeze bottle with a needle applicator.  That works really well, and I always have a Q-tip handy to soak up any excess (if needed) .

 

In my current rigging of the Santa Maria, I have begun using the Sally Hansen Hard As Nails polish, which has come in super handy and convenient for the rigging knots.  The built-in applicator brush makes it super easy to place a small drop on the rigging where needed, and it has a decent dry time to keep the job moving.

 

And, of course, finally, the Titebond Original for all my wood gluing.  I'm liking the Original better than the Premium.

 

Anyways, back to Phil's original query, I am not familiar with the Locktite product but have seen it in the store.  I had no issues with the Gorilla drying up, and have had no issues with the BSI products (although I do recap continuously when using.

 

Glue.jpg.2197a297d25d8b10ca9364c06ad004ff.jpg

Gregg

 

Current Projects:                                                             Completed Projects:                                                                 Waiting for Shipyard Clearance:

 Santa Maria Caravelle 1:48 - Ships of Pavel Nikitin     Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 - Model Shipways                    USS Constitution 1:76 - Model Shipways

                                                                                              Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 - Model Shipways        Yacht America Schooner 1851 1:64 - Model Shipways 

                                                                                              H.M. Schooner Ballahoo 1:64 - Caldercraft                             RMS Titanic 1:300 - OcCre (May now never get to it)

                                                                                              Bluenose 1921 1:64 - Model Shipways

Posted
1 hour ago, wmherbert said:

Key for me is using the very fine tips I bought on Amazon.  A ton of them for very little money. I get rid of the cap and just use a nozzle. I leave it on between uses. Even over night. If it clogs I just cut a tiny bit of the tip and it's ready to go.

Bill

20250518_173214.jpg

This is exactly what I do. Of course I pretty much have zero humidity in the air. 

Posted (edited)

Thanks to everyone for all the tips and information.

 

I am familiar with Bob Smith Industries. In my company's work making oceanographic instruments and some other industrial controls we special ordered custom glues specific for unusual environments (8000 psi deep ocean pressures or high temperatures).

 

I haven't seen BSI products on the shelves around here, but I'll look again. Maybe I will try Gorilla CA - I have seen Gorilla products in stores here.

 

****

 

To answer Gary's question "Is Corvallis, Oregon, particularly humid?" This is western Oregon, 36 miles from the Pacific Ocean! If the ground gets dry folks call it a drought! Some years it rains from November to May almost non stop. However, it isn't "rain" like you get in the southwest. It mostly drizzles, and what Oregonians call rain we called "sprinkles" when I grew up in Arkansas. We get only about 40 inches per year here in town, but up to 120 inches on nearby Coast Range mountains.

 

The saving grace is that it doesn't rain much in summer and fall, and it rarely gets hot. So it never gets hot and muggy.

Edited by Dr PR

Phil

 

Current build: Vanguard Models 18 foot cutter

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

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