Pride of Baltimore 2 by Bill Hime - Model Shipways - 1:64 scale

[jcoby]

Harvey,

 

Thank you! I actually saw that in a sample practicum by Robert Hunt. He said it was a defect in the kit design. After hearing it from two sources, I'll definately make a card stock template with the two bow points together. Then if necessary, I'll cut both ends off and use the new piece to complete it

 

 

I think it's only short at the aft end. From what I remember all of the stations for the stanchions are correct. I just measured mine and it's 0.170" short. It honestly isn't very visible once installed and there will be even more stuff covering it once rigging is complete but it's something that would be nice to correct.

 

 

The six upright knees aren't supposed to be painted but I didn't figure that out until after I had already installed them.

[j21896]

Hi Bill,

 

I just found your Baltimore -- looking good!  I'll be following along the rest of the way.

 

Cheers,

Robert

[ASAT]

Bill, haven't seen an update, are you still working on your POB? Or taking a break through the holidays? In any case, have a great Christmas and New Year, Blessings to you and your bride.

 

Lou 

[Bill Hime]

Hello everyone! Wow it's been awhile. Life took hold and shut down the shipyard in December. Unexpectedly replacing our computer and then my truck was just the start of the storm. Things are improving now though

 

So back to the build; Current dilemma is I'm at the point I need the wood I was going to replace the supplied material with to move forward. So do I press forward and just use the supplied wood or be patient and order the wood in a couple of weeks when money issues are less of a concern?

I get a little nervous when a project sits idle too long.

 

Personally, I think I should wait. If I settle for something I didn't want in the first place, I may never be happy with this first build.

 

 

Bill

[augie]

Probably best to wait on the new wood.  I know it's hard.  Any other parts of the build you can work on in the meanwhile??

 

Good hearing from you.

[aliluke]

Bill - wait. There is so much time invested in this craft that the cost of better product than that which comes in a kit is trivial in comparison. You are right you'll kick yourself later and you are doing a great job as it is, your model deserves the best you can afford. Remember your own motto!!! "Passion is Patience".

 

Cheers

Alistair

[Bill Hime]

Hi Robert,

Thanks for looking in. Watchful eyes always keep me on my toes

 

Lou,

Hey my friend, thanks for shaking the bushes. We're alive and well

 

Augie,

Yes, waiting is the right thing to do. I think I was just thinking out loud on in that post. With the shipyard in the living room, it's never too far out of my site.

 

Alistair,

Lol, now that's the way to call a man out! Thank you my friend   "Passion is Patience" ...and that is the truth of my heart

 

 

This is my long weekend on in ICU. I'm off Monday and Tuesday. First thing up, to dial that scroll saw in and get those Wenge wood patterns cut. I feel like I just woke up. Thanks everyone for getting my blood running again.

 

 

Bill

[PageT]

              Bill.  I have been at my POB build for a year.  Finishing up the standing rigging.  I am also using Bob Hunts practium.  I am also a newbie and this was my first really kit to build.  It has and is a learning experience no matter what material you are using.  The practium and forums such as this one really help.  I use this one along with Lauuks Forum.  I do not have a build log as I am not very computer savy to take photos etc.  My shop is an ongoing project adding tools and supplies as I go along.  I am also building Old Naval Cannons as a sideline tto break up the tedioous work with the Pride  My Pride is good but not like the one's posted by others.  It amazes me how they can make it sound and looks so easy and so good but it comes with just keeep working at it until it makes sense.  The satisfaction one gets when working with wood and seeing  it come together is such a great feeling and satisfaction to one's spirit.  I gave up this hobby about 40 years ago and it is the best thing I do now that I am retired.  I am going to have my kids show me how to post pictures so I can start a build log.  Any tips as to jigs-tools-supplies you have found in your work as a cabinet maker and now a ship builder is welcome.  One of the best tools I have bought is a Dermel Moto Saw along with the Dermel Hand Drill.  The three handed alligator clip stand is priceless.  After thekeel and bulwarks are installed I use a swivel vise to hold the model while I plank it and install the decking and fixtures.

Comes in handy also while rigging as you can move yor model around easy to get at things.

Paget

[jdbondy]

Hi Bill, glad to see there is someone else out there building the Pride 2.  I am installing spars and standing rigging on my model.  One general change I made to the model is that when it was time to build the deck pieces that appear bright finished, like the pin rails and windlass support, I used pearwood.  When coated with polyurethane, it nicely mimics a bright finish, and of course the grain is very tight.

 

Good luck and will try to keep an eye on how it is going!

 

JD

[Blue Pilot]

Thanks for posting a great log!

 

I have been out of the hobby for a long time but getting back into it and once again and working on my POB II. I have been catching up on the forums and will be following your build with great interest. I wish I had your wood working skill. I had no prior experience with wood working but the pride is my third build and I chose it specifically as a skill builder and stepping stone to greater things. Something tells me I am going to learn a lot following your log as well.

 

Cheers!

[gjdale]

Hey Bill,

 

Haven't seen an update in a while. Hope everything is okay with you and that we'll see you in the shipyard again soon.

[Bill Hime]

Well, this morning I find myself standing outside the gates of the shipyard looking in. The sound of harbor bound gulls and flapping tarps have settled over the grounds of the C.W. Hime Shipyard. The steam powered boiler sits idle, loops of drive belts hang throughout the milling house silent, covered in saw dust and cob webs. Benches strewn with chisels, mallets and calipers lay waiting to bring life to timber. The echo of life is faint here now, for it takes a man's hands to bring life to wood and purpose to tools.

I've been away but it's time to open these gates now. I don't know how much time I'll spend here, but I'll be here. Now, first things first, fire up that boiler and find the broom...

 

Good morning everybody

[augie]

Welcome home, Bill.  Good to see you back.

[egkb]

Great to see you back Bill ! I look forward to the updates.. no rush or anything, tomorrow morning is fine ^_^

 

Stay Well

 

Eamonn

[NMBROOK]

Welcome back Bill!    

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[gjdale]

Welcome home Bill - we've missed you. Delighted to hear the C.W. Hime shipyard is back in operation.

[aliluke]

Welcome back Bill. Sometimes people disappear from the forum and you wonder where they have gone. Good to hear you are alive and kicking and ready to make some dust and shavings.

[Sjors]

The lost sheep is back again   

Welcome home from me also Bill.

And now....go for it !

Make some sawdust, pictures and we are happy again.

 

[Bill Hime]

So I have spent a great deal of time this last 4-5 days reading through my plans and building guide. I have compiled my lumber list for Hobbymill, Yellow Heart for decking, Boxwood for planking, Red Heart for plank sheer, top rail, coamings, and rudder and keel. I'm trying ebonizing Pear for wales, some deck and mast details.

In my reading, one of the options given was double planking. This interested me two-fold, it will be my first planking job ever. It would give me a practice run and a solid base to plank on for the finished product.

This raises some questions from my lack of experience;

 

1.) Do I have to use a wider keel to receive the second layer?

2.) Do I have to widen my plank sheer? (It still has to line up with the stanchions)

3.) there's probably something else I should be asking, i.e...I don't know what I don't know

 

Love to hear some feedback on this!

 

 

Warm Regards,

 

Bill

Edited September 17, 2014 by Bill Hime

[Bill Hime]

BTW.. I don't know what happen with that font.....^^^^^  Lol

[capnharv2]

Bill,

 

If your computer is simlar to mine, ctrl-i gives you italics. You can see it highlighted in the menu just above where you type.

 

Also, ctrl-B gives you bold text. Add xtrl-i and you get bold italics!

 

Add ctrl-u and you get underlined bold italics.

 

I apologize. I was having fun and got _carried  ^{away _!!!}

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

 

BTW, that happens to me a lot-our cats love to walk on my keyboard

Edited September 17, 2014 by capnharv2

[Bill Hime]

LOL, Thanks Harvey . Our cats likes to be anywhere we're trying to do something.

 

So how about some thoughts on the ^^^^^ above post on double planking?

 

 

Warm Regards,

 

Bill

Edited September 17, 2014 by Bill Hime

[capnharv2]

Hi Bill,

 

If you double plank instead of single plank the hull, you would deduct the extra plank thickness from the bulkheads. That way, the sheer plank stays the same.

 

Likewise with the keel, stem and sternpost. If you double plank her, you would cut the rabbet a little deeper (about the thickness of the extra plank).

 

You're trying to control the outside surface of the hull, so all plank thicknesses and changes are taken away from the backup structure. And remember to edge glue the planks as well as glue them to the bulkheads/filler blocks. I've missed that step several times, and the planking flexes when you try to fair the hull. It just makes it a whole lot harder to get a smooth hull(now that I've said that, I'm sure to forget again on my next planking job ).

 

Also, I suggest using basswood for the first layer of planking. Boxwood is just too pretty to cover up.

 

One last comment. Since you have Bob's Practicum (I have it too, along with a MS Rattlesnake waiting), he suggests filling the space between the bulkheads with basswood blocks, then carve away the blocks to fair with the buklheads. That would give you the plank support you're looking for. OTOH, if you want to double plank her for practice, go for it!

 

I hope that helps.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

[aliluke]

Hi Bill

Good to see you back again!

 

I agree with Harvey but I'm not so sure about your ship, as in I don't know it or know the kit. Is it designed as a single planked hull? If it is, I reckon the main issues, as Harvey suggests, will be at the stem, keel and stern post. I'd be less worried about the thickness of the hull. You can control this.

 

That said, if it is a single plank designed kit I'd tend to stick with that. I'd rather turn a double-planked design into a single than the other way around. There are all sorts of issues that might bite you later. For a first up I'd stick with the kit as designed.

[Bill Hime]

Harvey,

That makes sense, taking it from the bulkheads. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Thank you. I only saw a sample from Bob's practicum on the web, don't have it. I definitely was planning on using the basswood planking from the kit for the first layer. I think the first run would give me valuable experience for doing the finished layer. I like the idea of block fillers. I would think that would give the model stability for the years to come.

 

Alistair,

It feels good to be back! Double planking was offered as an option by the build guide. Of course it gave no detail as to how to go about it . I'm going to be deviating from the plans in a few places . I'm going to use this ship as a journey into just what can I bring from cabinet/furniture making into it's presentation and finish.

 

Thank you both!

 

Warm Regards,

 

Bill

[jcoby]

I would fill at least the first 2-3 bays and the last 2-3 with medium-hard balsa or basswood if I did it again. The first few bulkheads move too easily under the stress of planking if you don't steam bend them (which I didn't) and the last few have a pretty severe compound curve. Speaking of the transom, make sure you build it as shown in the plans. The counter is actually planked separately from the transom and hull. I had to cut off a bunch of planking to make that happen.

 

I washed the inside of the hull a couple of times with diluted PVA to make sure all the planks were secured to each other. If you are double planking, CA would work as well (if not better) but I was worried about it bleeding through to the other side and making a mess when it came time to paint.

 

Make sure you can get the double planking in the correct thickness before you commit to doing it. I have another kit that is double planked and the first layer is ~3/32" inch or so (probably 2mm actual) but the second layer is almost paper thin. Probably 0.5mm or ~ 0.020". If you can only get the boxwood in thicker sizes you may be better off just single planking it over balsa or basswood filler blocks.

[Bill Hime]

Jcoby,

That is great insight, thank you. Would you place your wales with the first layer, making them thicker to be proportionate to the finished planking layer?

 

Warm Regards,

 

Bill

[jcoby]

You could do it either by making the first strake and the wales as solid or over a first layer of planking.

 

Honestly the lines of the Pride aren't that hard to do. I lofted the measurements from the side view and transferred them to the hull using calipers and used a small block plane (actually an old xacto razor plane) to taper and bevel the strakes. The basswood is pretty forgiving so it may be significantly more work using boxwood. I have no experience with boxwood. The worst is the area around the garboard strake but very doable with patience.

[aliluke]

Hi Bill

The few wales I've done are layered over the planking rather than being thicker planks. It is more correct for them to be thick planks but it is very hard to do this and my results with overlaying have always worked out just fine. Depending on your finishes - paint or natural - setting the curve of overlaid wales is important. If you are painting  - who cares (see my AVS log)? If leaving natural you do need to care (see my Fly log).

[Beef Wellington]

One tip I've seen is to use plan ahead for where the wales will be and use a slightly wider planks at the top and the bottom which are then covered by wale.  This would avoid a potential problem if the wale and the planking don't meet exactly and avoid the appearance of a 'thin sliver' of a plank under the wale planking to spoil the effect.  Hope that makes sense.