Rattlesnake by JPett - Model Shipways - Scale 1/64th - Kit #MS2028

[Dida]

Thank you Russ!

 

Augie, also explained by an private message what was CA. This is not for the first time that I hit "linguistic barrier". But I am young, I learn fast. Everything will be fine.

[augie]

Don't worry about the linguistic barrier , Hrvoje.  You're doing fine !  In fact a lot better then most of us native English language folks would do in any other language.

[Martin W]

JPett -- Good luck with the house guests.  We'll all be looking forward to your return.

 

My shipyard happens to be in a smallish storage room/safe room, and as "luck" would have it is also the room where the beer is stowed.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[JPett]

Ahoy Martin

 

 

 

The shipyard has been relocated in the closet of the new guest room. I think the move will be permanent LOL

Edited March 20, 2013 by JPett

[cog]

At least you can put it behind lock and key

[ZevEisenberg]

Hey Jpett, I just finished my stern carving using the technique you outlined. I'm super happy with how it turned out! A couple of photos: http://zevmakesthings.tumblr.com/post/46919124018

 

(I started my build log on tumblr before I knew about model ship world, but I'm thinking of copying it over here as well.)

[JPett]

Ahoy Zev

 

I would be super happy with that too

 

Looking forward to seeing your build here on MSW. I found your Tumblr log inspiring; your Ratt is coming along nicely. Being a big fan of Calvin and Hobbes I also liked the pumkin.

[sport29652]

Zev make the move, come to the dark side of the force

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

The Ratt build is back on the work bench. I think it might be a while before she acclimates to the smaller quarters.

 

 

On my side project, which BTW has turned into a full-fledged undertaking I suffered from some weird obsession with the finish on the hull. I am in recovery but think this might have had some long-term effects. They are positive so ‘worry not” and I will post this adventure in that log. In my defense, this was encouraged by guests. An extension on this endeavor has however been approved so she now shares the yard with the Ratt.

 

 

While working the side project I learned a lot. Most importantly, that it is best to only sand hulls with blocks or dowels. I found hand sanding creates an uneven surface. During the anti spiling revolt of January 2013 I had hand sanded the Ratt’s hull. There was now great concern where some hand sanding had followed attempts at “brute force and superstition”. Done to confirm that the clinkering I was experiencing would not be a problem later. Using my new found skills I found an area on the bow, starboard side that had a low spot I was not sure could be corrected. I started to explore my worst case options, which started with removing three strakes and went all the way up to completely re-planking the hull with a harder wood. I found on the side adventure, I really liked the harder wood. Thankfully, common sense came to my rescue and telling myself if I sanded through I just would not stop and re-planking would follow. A complete re-plank or just the strakes would be determined after a sufficient amount of alcohol consumed. Using a small block, surgery commenced. I kept a finger on the underside to confirm I did not sand too much and thankfully, I think it turned out well. Once planking is complete, I will reinforce this area with some epoxy on the inside and hopefully laugh about it in a year or two. Please deduct two more points from my “scale” scorecard. Pics will be in the next post.

Edited April 3, 2013 by JPett

[augie]

Ah, you've discovered the magic of the sanding block  .  Well done.

 

Looking forward to updates on your gals.

[Trussben]

Love the reference to the "anti spiling revolt ".

Look forward to seeing some progress.

 

Ben

[fish]

Jp,

 

What are you using to hold your ship upside-down while you install the planks?  The bulkheads on the rattlesnake seem very thin and easily broken so securing the boat during planking seems like a great idea!

 

-Aaron

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Augie: Magic is a good thing. Well for me anyway. I understand Mr. Johnson kind of got in some trouble with his.

 

Ben: We both know I was fighting it all the way

 

Aaron: Pic is for you. This has been very helpful for me. They are cheap too. When I am done planking, I will have to make some changes.

 

Back to the build                   

I have found that I can use my Dremel to make treenails and have decided to play with them a bit. The first three strakes will get multible coats of black similar to what Ben has so nicley done on his Confed build. (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/78-usf-confederacy-by-trussben-ms-164-316/?p=1949)  I figured I could run some tests here. I did do some on a few scraps but I already see that on the hull I should loose the graphite. They make a nice intermission while I finish the planking too. Once the planking is done and I have 600 more to do, I am sure that tune will change.

 

I also finally rounded that dreaded 90 at the Stern counter and hopefully the sailing will be a little smoother. Another bend it those planks would have required a fifth dimension

 

I am having some issues with the planks going from wide to thin and then flaring in the stern. I made up a few sanding sticks that can run along the edge of the plank and reduce it when they creep over the line. They are tapered on the side facing the bulkhead to run at an angle, sanding the side of the plank but maintaining the angle I originally sanded to minimize the seam. I am not sure but I think this is contributing to a small wave I am staring to see in the planking.

 

To compensate for this I am considering skipping two or three planks and then planking down from there.

 

Advice regarding this idea would be greatly appreciated  

Edited April 6, 2013 by JPett

[russ]

There is usually a natural tendency for strakes to be wider at midship, then narrow slightly, especially in the underbody, as they pass along the 2/3 mark of the hull, and then widen out a bit at the stern. This will happen mostly in the lower belt, but it can happen anywhere below the turn of the bilge. Is this what you are seeing?

 

Russ

[JPett]

Ahoy Russ

 

Thank you for your response

 

Yes: As I plank up from belt “A” (Start of belt “B”) The planks loose a 32nd then need to gain it back+ over the course of three bulkheads to meet the stern post. I found on Belt “A” I could use the curves of the hull to hide this. On "B" I have not discovered how to hide them. It is also right at the start of "B" and I have concern that slight errors in my workmanship will amplify as I plank up to meet "C" over the next five strakes. "C" is also experiencing a similar issue but slightly forward. Thankfully I am half way through "C" and they are just starting to show. My thinking is to put a plank between these two problems areas, creating a place that would be correct and true then work towards the chaos. I do understand that I would have to fit two strakes. I have never “fitted” a plank so I have no idea how difficult this is and the reason for my post. I can also see that fitting a plank into chaos as a bit of a challenge. Thankfully, it is basswood.

Edited April 6, 2013 by JPett

[russ]

This probably has to do with using the kit's planking strips rather than spiling from wider stock. I have seen it happen before and it is not that big a deal unless it bothers you from an aesthic perspective.

 

Russ

[Trussben]

Hi JP.

 

I agree with Russ yet again on this one, unless you have spiled every plank to an exactly correct dimension over its entire length then you will get the creep you are talking about.

What I try and do is make it so the very LAST strake across the entire hull ends up having to be just slightly narrower than a normal strip width, then I just use sanding and time to FIT that plank into the gap left, and I cannot see it when I'm finished unless I really look for it, nobody else would every notice.

 

Look forward to you finishing planking milestone, I know you have learned a lot along the way, it will help you so much on you next builds.

 

Ben

Edited April 7, 2013 by Trussben

[Martin W]

Ahoy JPett -- Good to see you've come back from the houseguests to your true calling. 

 

As with everything else in your build, the planking here at what you once called so delicately the Ratt's **** looks good.  And if you want my opinion, that is the trickiest, most frustrating, part of the process, and that leads to the most redos.  I can't spot the wave you mentioned, though, is it in the broadside view?  I think I'm less talented than you are, so I would worry about skipping 2 or 3 planks, since very precise measurements could lead to spaces that are too big by just enough to be noticeable once you went back and put the skipped-over planks in.

 

And how did you figure out how to make treenails with a Dremel?  Do tell, do tell.

 

I'll be looking forward to more of your work.

 

Cheers,

Martin

Edited April 8, 2013 by Martin W

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Russ: As always “thank you”. I have now made a small change in my technique. I went to a longer sanding block, and lengthened the arc of this curve/dip. This does cause me to fall a little short on the plank width on the next bulkhead. I am hoping too make this up on the next strake. On my next build, I might try using battens to mark the lines for all the strakes, not just the belts. Only using the tick strips to get the width and a rough position, like I did with the belts.

 

Ben: Thanks for stopping by and the compliment. I have mixed feeling about finishing the planking. It is something I find very enjoyable. I started the side project when it started to feel like work. I also wanted to do my first wood finish on something other then the Ratt. I might start another build once planking is completed on the Ratt. One just to supply me with a planking fix.One thing I really like about your build is the run of your planks highlights the hulls shape, something I am working very hard to duplicate.

 

Martin: Your comment makes a lot of sense. I will try to place this strake somewhere it will be less noticeable and only do one. Ben alluded to this too. I did not capture the wave on my build with the pics I recently took. Thankfully, it is not too noticeable right now, I would like to keep it that way but when I saw it getting worst, not better,  I posted. As for the redos, I should have photographed my “dead” plank pile when I moved the shipyard. I have remade almost as many planks as I have put on. Thankfully, Basswood is cheap. ;P

[JPett]

Ahoy Martin

 

Put the toothpick in the Dremel chuck. Fire it up and push the toothpick into the draw plate, working down to the size you need. Wear safety goggles

 

When I first got my draw plate, I was hand feeding it. Took about five minutes to make one treenail. I had completely given up on them. Now it only takes seconds.

 

There is a post about treenails here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/740-methods-for-making-treenails/?p=10107. This is where I got the idea.

Edited April 8, 2013 by JPett

[Martin W]

AHA!!!  Yes I have done the 5 minute process, and felt really lucky if I got the thing down to anything like a scale size (ie, tiny, tiny and oh so fragile).  So there is yet another use for that Dremel!

 

Thanks,

 

Martin

[md1400cs]

JPett,

 

Your build is coming along beautifully. I've been silently following, its about time that I gave you two deserved "thumbs Up"   Nice.......

 

Michael D

[patrickmil]

I'm going to have to give your treenailing efforts a try at my workbench on my next build. From the last picture, it looks like your planking is coming right along.

[fish]

Jpett,

 

Is your profile picture from the game fallout 3?

 

Aaron

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Martin: The Dremel was a “DUH” moment

 

Michael D: Coming from you, I consider that quite a compliment "Thank you"

I follow your Wasa build and draw much inspiration from it. I am considering adding the railroad spikes to my gunwales and possibly the bulwarks

 

Patrick: Do try them. I find it makes a noticeable difference even at 1/64.

 

Fish: Yes, another pastime I enjoy.

 

Back to the build:

 

I am posting my treenail efforts in hopes that it might encourage others (place little devil emoticon here). I have found that if you can get it in the Dremel chuck it has treenail potential. Once fitted in the chuck (I use the flex shaft attachment) I use a piece of sandpaper and “lath” it to look like a toothpick. This adds another three seconds to the job. I also do this to re-purpose toothpicks for another treenail. I have to be careful about the wasted wood. I do not need to **** off any Ents.

 

Once sanded, I start with the big hole and work down to the size I need. I do skip. I also go back once done as it cleans up the treenail. If the wood is not squarely in the chuck or warped and wobbles, I run it all the way thru a large hole. This re-cuts it and in most cases stops the wobble enough to make the treenail.  The wood goes in the smooth side of the draw plate too. Time; five to ten seconds per treenail.

 

Please wear eye protection when doing this

Edited April 9, 2013 by JPett

[Martin W]

JPett -- those treenails do look good, and knowing how little time they took you they look even better.  (I always get cramps in my hands from drawing them through the plate over and over, and then say lots of ugly words when they break)  One think I'd say, though, is that your drawplate looks like the once from Micro Mark -- you might want to check out the one Jim Byrnes sells, which is higher quality, so that you can get those little babies down even smaller.  Somewhere in MSW.1 there was an interesting discussion about treenails and some people made the point that you shouldn't bother unless you can get them down to scale.  Well, at 1:64 that would amount to a mere splinter.  I actually like the look of treenails no matter.  On that point, how far down did you manage to cut them?

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[JPett]

Ahoy Martin

 

I wish I had known about the Byrnes Drawplate before buying this one, I remember that forum too; it cost no more then mine either. Here is the pic I used for my reference. The color inlay is from my build.

 

I am thinking of changing the pattern. I like the look Hahn achieved on his Kingfisher. These were done on the wales which will be painted black and hopefully should not show.

Edited April 11, 2013 by JPett

[sport29652]

Took your tree ailing idea and gave it a go, brilliant ! Are you going to treenail the deck etc...

[Martin W]

JPett -- A picture's worth a thousand, eh?  That shot makes me remember the old barns I saw when I was a kid, and that had been built with treenails -- they were easily that size. 

 

And I think you're right to consider the patterning -- as long as you're going to do something that visible, you might as well make it work in an interesting way.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[sonicmcdude]

Nice pictures for tree nail scale.