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Oseberg ship by Von_Kossa - Billing Boats - Scale 1:25, 800 A.D (First wooden ship build)


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The oar holes of the Oseberg ship had cuts in them so the sailors could attach the oar from the inside without risking falling into the ocean or dropping the oar into the ocean.

Byt the way, for others researching this, on some sites it is claimed that the oar holes had shutters to prevent water from leaking in. It is correct but this was found on the Gokstad ship, it had the oar holes much lower than the Oseberg.

 

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I have finished this, will post results later, one of the things which i could have done better was the shape of the cuts, mine became triangular because of the tool i used but the cuts are more rektangular.

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Love it, Von Kossa. If it wasn't for the pot plants in the background, you could almost convince me that we are looking down the deck of the ship in the museum. Great job!

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

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Love it, Von Kossa. If it wasn't for the pot plants in the background, you could almost convince me that we are looking down the deck of the ship in the museum. Great job!

 

Thank you, and i really mean it. I needed to hear this now because i really think my build sucks. The closer i get to the staining process the more i see all the faults, all the glue spots, all the faults all over it.

 

I have started to fill in the holes between the ornaments and the planks. Because i never sanded it down before i attached the ornaments. :(

As you can see here for example:

 

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This is what i have achieved so far.

 

post-1001-0-63366300-1410249267_thumb.jpg

 

post-1001-0-12884100-1410249278_thumb.jpg

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Hello My Friend,

 

The oar holes look great.  

 

I know that you are getting ready to stain and I wanted to tell you about something that I learned the hard way when I stained mine.  I sanded everything in preparation for staining.  The directions on the can made no mention of the grit to be used and I used 400 on the deck.  It looked terrible, the stain would not soak into the wood.  I went to the manufacturer's website and there it stated not to use greater than 180 grit.  I sanded the deck back to bare wood with 180 sandpaper and tried again.  It worked much better and the deck looks great.  

 

This is a little like checking the care instructions after you buy the shirt.  

 

Hang in there buddy, your build has always been an inspiration to me.

Jack

 

"I Love the smell of sawdust in the morning" apologies to John Melius

 

Current Build:      Bomb Vessel Granado, 1742 - Cross Section Scratch Build 

                             

 

Previous Builds:  Oseberg Billing Boats 9th Century Viking Ship Modified

                            Bluenose ll, AL, Lightly Bashed

                            Louisa Morrison Half Hull, Scratch Build

 

Photography Website:     http://www.27birds.com

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Hello My Friend,

 

The oar holes look great.  

 

I know that you are getting ready to stain and I wanted to tell you about something that I learned the hard way when I stained mine.  I sanded everything in preparation for staining.  The directions on the can made no mention of the grit to be used and I used 400 on the deck.  It looked terrible, the stain would not soak into the wood.  I went to the manufacturer's website and there it stated not to use greater than 180 grit.  I sanded the deck back to bare wood with 180 sandpaper and tried again.  It worked much better and the deck looks great.  

 

This is a little like checking the care instructions after you buy the shirt.  

 

Hang in there buddy, your build has always been an inspiration to me.

 

Thank you Jack. But not as great as your stained ship. It´s a beauty.

 

I haven´t thought about this with grit at all, thanks for the warning... It seems like we have the same standards for sandpapers, and I think I for the most of it have used 180.  I will have to check this later.

 

For choice of stain brand i will use Zar, because it is the best brand i can find here in sweden. I will also go the oil stain way.

 

For the moment i think i will test:

Walnut or Modern Walnut

Teak natural

Black Walnut

Dark Mahogany

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  • 2 weeks later...

Found this information regarding poly coating. Seems like waterbased poly is preferred if you use oil based stain.

 

"Stains. If you plan to stain your wood, a trick that I learned, before you stain anything, rub it with denatured alcohol. This gives you a very good idea of how the wood will appear when a clear finish is applied. If you stain with a oil based product and then apply a oil based finish, there is the slight possibility that the color will "pull", that is lighten in some areas and darken in other areas. This is because the carries for the sealant is lifting the color from the same carrier that the color used. The way to avoid this is to use a water based color and oil based finish or the other way around."

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  • 2 months later...
  • 5 months later...

beautiful Build,

 

very nice work on planking and oars as well as the Fitting out Details..

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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And what is this?

If you look carefully you will see small drilled holes for the ropes holding the sail in the future.

And now you think... Is the man so mad that he shows pictures of some drilled holes?

 

And the answer to this is, well, yes. Because it took an ETERNITY to drill these holes because they weren´t drilled before the assembly of the ship. It took hours just to drill one hole with the weird thing i constructed to even be able to drill the holes. I had to turn the drill with a small nipper one quarter of a turn at a time.

 

So this is a warning to anyone building this ship in the future, drill the holes before its to late.

 

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