Naval Cutter Alert by AnobiumPuncatum - Scale 1/36 - POF

[druxey]

Almost without exception (in English built ships) the frames are always at right angles to the keel. They are completely independent of the waterline. In some ships the keel is parallel to the waterline, so this is not apparent. In others, such as this cutter, the ship is designed with 'drag'; that is to say, the stern is much deeper in the water than the bow.

[Mirabell61]

thanks Christian,

I had studied those sources you mentioned, thats why I came to ask. I learn that the Frames of 18th century cutters have an angle to the waterline.

 

Nils

 

Druxey,

that was a new one to me, thanks for your Kind Explaination, learnt something new again.....,

 

Up to your anwer I always thought that the lines, Ratings (lengths, beams, Frame-contour measurements (outside plank), etc were taken from an earlier built quite simular ship type, the ship laying on flat keel in a dock or so. to document the outer Skin shape. The waterlines, Frame positions over the length were then put to the well experienced shipwrights desire horizontal and vertical to suit the best possible rigidness of the construct. I see now that this is a wrong speculation I was following

 

Nils

[rdsaplala]

Hi Christian, 

 

It must have been quite a challenge to reconstruct Alert's framing without an existing disposition of frames plan specific to her, but you've pulled it off with flying colors, excellent work on the square frames Sir

[mcpwilk]

Any more progress?

 

Mike

[mcpwilk]

Any more photos?

 

Mike

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Mike,

 

thanks for your interest, but I don't have an update for my log in the moment.

I didn't found the right arrangement for the cant frames until now. I found another sheer and profile plan in an Danish archive, which I have to study. If I found a possible solution for the cants I'll update the log.

 

in the moment I work on my second project HMS Fly 1/32.

[druxey]

Somehow, I missed your January 3 posting and am a bit bothered about that fifth deadeye and chain. Usually if modifications are made, these are drawn out in detail neatly, using either a different color ink or with dashed lines. This rough pencil addition looks like a proposal that was not, in fact, carried out. Just my opinion. 

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Thanks for your opinion. I will check this detail also with the other Sheer and Profile plan.

[AntonyUK]

Hi Christian.

Still here and awaiting news and progress.

Be interesting to see the new developments with the cant frames.

 

Regards Antony.

Edited October 25, 2015 by AntonyUK

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Hi Anthony,

 

sorry for the late reply.

 

I'am still learning how to develop the cant frames. Last month I got a copy of the Shipbuilders Repsoitory. I hope that I will fid there some new information. In the moment I am working the frame drawings for my second project. After starting the build of my sloop I will also continue the drawing work for the cutter project.

[AnobiumPunctatum]

It's time to put the dust away. Ten years ago I started with great enthusiasm the build of the small cutter. But to be honest I was not able to reconstruct the framing of the cutter. So I stopped after some time and paused the project. In October of 2022 I started a new try.

I lerned a lot and made a complete rework of my reconstruction. The first two pictures are showing a 3D-model which I used to check my lines.

 

As written in the old posts I was not happy with the frame design in Goodwins AotS Book. In my opinion, it does not fit into the time in which the cutter was built. There are several DoF plans of small ships of this era in the NMM. What almost all of them have in common is that the double frames were dissolved. A space was also left between the first futtock and the floortimber. However, the "double frames" were still connected by chocks.

 

The picture shows my reconstruction. I have it a little bit simplified, because I w like to plank the hull, so the shifted top timbers will not be visible. Many many thanks to @Chuck who gave me the inspiration for the simplification.

 

Since February last year I am working on the model. All parallel frames have been built in the meantime. I am now busy with a second version of the backbone.

The build is more or less a test to learn working with my CNC. In November I have started working on my sloop Fly again. The plan is to build and test the building methods on Alert and use this than for my ship sloop.

Edited January 13 by AnobiumPunctatum

[Chuck]

Glad to see you back at it.

[AnobiumPunctatum]

The first component for the backbone of the Alert is the Fore Deadwood. This was milled from a piece of boxwood.

Even though I am very happy with the finished part, I will use a different technique for the aft deadwood. Before I could hold the finished part in my hands, I had a few failed attempts. With a much more complicated component, this method is unlikely to work satisfactorily.

[Chuck]

An excellent start...I eagerly await your progress updates.

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Thank you, Chuck and all others for the Likes. I hope that I can finish the aft deadwood this weekend.

 

[AnobiumPunctatum]

As the weather has been nice over the last two weeks, I've swapped my little shipyard for my bike. As a result, I haven't got as far as I had planned.

As I wrote in the last part, I want to try a different technique for the after deadwood, especially to avoid milling on both sides. Firstly, the individual components of the deadwood are milled once with the correct side and once mirrored. In order to be able to glue the two sides together later, recesses are milled into which fitting pieces are glued before gluing them together.

The next picture shows the components removed from the board and trimmed.

Before gluing them together, a few small curves that inevitably result from the milling cutter must be removed. I do this with my little Proxxon.

The last picture shows the individual components after gluing them together.

A weak point became apparent when machining the parts. The direction of the wood grain of the tabs, which are used to position the finished component on the keel, follows the overall part. It would have been better to mill the tabs separately and rotate the grain by 90°. This would have made the components much less susceptible to breakage.

In the next part of the report, both sides of the deadwood parts will be milled and the deadwood glued together.

[Mike Y]

Interesting technique! Glad that you are back building, pulling up a chair 😊

[dvm27]

Very innovative approach to the deadwood. I will follow with interest!