michael mott Posted March 31, 2014 #31 Posted March 31, 2014 Floyd, are still sure you are not going to put her in the water? Michael Nirvana 1 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
fnkershner Posted March 31, 2014 Author #32 Posted March 31, 2014 Mike - I am tempted. but then I would have to messing with Epoxy etc. And the admiral would not let it in the house. Nirvana and captainbob 2 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
fnkershner Posted April 19, 2014 Author #33 Posted April 19, 2014 (edited) Ok folks here is an update. she is all planked and I have applied putty. I am waiting for the putty to completely dry then it will be Sanding time. Since my local club will be meeting tomorrow and we will be starting on the club build of the Long Boat I may be slowed a bit. Edited April 19, 2014 by Floyd Kershner Aussie048, Nirvana, yvesvidal and 3 others 6 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
captainbob Posted April 19, 2014 #34 Posted April 19, 2014 Looking good. I love those lines. Bob Nirvana 1 Quote Every build is a learning experience. Current build: SS_ Mariefred Completed builds: US Coast Guard Pequot Friendship-sloop, Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard, Spray, Grand-Banks-dory, a gaff rigged yawl, HOGA (YT-146), Int'l Dragon Class II, Two Edwardian Launches In the Gallery: Catboat, International-Dragon-Class, Spray
fnkershner Posted April 27, 2014 Author #35 Posted April 27, 2014 Okay guys I have a couple of questions and maybe you can help me here. I am about 1/2 way thru the sanding. Gets pretty boring after awhile. So the mind starts to wander. First off the cabins and deck furniture is made from a sheet of laser cut Mahogany plywood. I am not happy with the grain or the color so I have decided to use these pieces as a template for custom cut piece from a sheet of Cherry. I think this will look much better. So that leaves the deck. the quality of the deck planking is very poor. Each plank is 1 mm X 2 mm and there are about 100 of them. I am trying to decide what specie of wood to use for this. Suggestions? Also I intend to paint the hull Blue to match the color she is now, or at least close. Can anyone suggest their favorite source for Paint? I don't have an air brush but I think Spray makes more sense here. Nirvana 1 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
michael mott Posted April 28, 2014 #36 Posted April 28, 2014 Floyd, I don't know what to tell you about the decking, but I have a good friend who fixes fiberglass boats and he swears by Krylon Spectrum paint, I have purchased the same but have not had the warm weather yet to spray outside, also I need to finish other bits first. Michael Nirvana 1 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
fnkershner Posted April 28, 2014 Author #37 Posted April 28, 2014 Michael - Where did you pick it up? Nirvana 1 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
michael mott Posted April 28, 2014 #38 Posted April 28, 2014 Floyd Walmart, I paid $6 per tin for it, I don't normally shop there but they were the only supplier within 50 miles. michael Nirvana 1 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
catopower Posted April 28, 2014 #39 Posted April 28, 2014 Hi Floyd, that's a very impressive model. Nice job on the hull! I've seen the kit and been interested in it, but I never pictured how big the model is. The hull is really long, but I believe the mast is going to be even longer! Very intriguing kit. The J-Boats were really beautiful sailers. The modern catamarans were fun to watch last year, but they lack the beauty and elegance of the old yachts. Clare captainbob, egkb and Nirvana 3 Quote Clare Hess He's a -> "HE" Current Builds HMS Wolf, 1754 - Shipyard Laser Cut Kit Kitamaebune - Japanese Coastal Trade Ship, 18th/19th Centuries - Woody Joe Kit Atakebune - Japanese Sengoku Period Warship - Woody Joe Kit
fnkershner Posted May 11, 2014 Author #40 Posted May 11, 2014 Ok Guys, I need more help. I have been sanding the putty on this model and have run into a problem. There are a few places where the plank flexes. As a result of the flexing there are cracks in the putty. If I keep sanding it will get pretty thin. How do I get a smooth surface with no cracks so that I can paint? I would really rather not resort to Epoxy. That will require SO Much more sanding. Nirvana 1 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
michael mott Posted May 12, 2014 #41 Posted May 12, 2014 Floyd is it possible to put a little epoxy on the inside where it is flexing? Michael Nirvana 1 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.
Blackie Posted May 12, 2014 #42 Posted May 12, 2014 Hi Floyd I would be careful putting any epoxy on particular areas on the outside as it will give you an area much harder than the other material and could make sanding tricky. It will probably give you a lumpy finish. I like Michael's suggestion as you can cut a hole in the deck assuming that you have not yet fixed the decking in place. If you don't like that, how about shaving the filler off the flexing planks, apply some CA to stiffen the exposed planks and reapply filler. Blackie Nirvana 1 Quote Current build: Amati Shamrock V 1:80 Past Builds: Kits: Schooner for Port Jackson, MSY and St Lucia (Tartane), Panart, Modified Harvey, AL Scratch: Captain Cook III Pilot Steamer, Kookaburra II motor launch, Sydney Heritage Fleet Steam Tug Waratah
fnkershner Posted May 12, 2014 Author #43 Posted May 12, 2014 Blackie - I agree with you about the Epoxy. I am doing some experimenting. I may have to resort to a thin layer of epoxy all over the outside. Nirvana 1 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
captainbob Posted May 12, 2014 #44 Posted May 12, 2014 Blackie - I agree with you about the Epoxy. I am doing some experimenting. I may have to resort to a thin layer of epoxy all over the outside. Thin your epoxy with 1/3 alcohol. It paints on easier and when the alcohol evaporates you are left with a thinner coat. Bob pete48 and Nirvana 2 Quote Every build is a learning experience. Current build: SS_ Mariefred Completed builds: US Coast Guard Pequot Friendship-sloop, Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard, Spray, Grand-Banks-dory, a gaff rigged yawl, HOGA (YT-146), Int'l Dragon Class II, Two Edwardian Launches In the Gallery: Catboat, International-Dragon-Class, Spray
fnkershner Posted May 12, 2014 Author #45 Posted May 12, 2014 (edited) Bob - Tell me more? I would like to avoid Epoxy completely but I don't think I can unless I do a 2nd layer of planking. Also the epoxy appeals to me since I will get a gel coat look to the hull. I just dread all the sanding it will take to get there. Edited May 12, 2014 by Floyd Kershner Nirvana 1 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
malmoerik Posted May 12, 2014 #46 Posted May 12, 2014 Be careful with epoxy, I covered my whole hull with it (good intentions, poorly thought-through!) and it was impossible to sand. When you apply pressure it gets warm and then it's like chewing gum. I ended up planking it from scratch again... Nirvana 1 Quote
alde Posted May 12, 2014 #47 Posted May 12, 2014 Floyd, You might look into the 2 part resin they use for fiberglass. It sands much better than epoxy and can be thinned to a watery consistancy with acetone and brushed on. I did this for an RC tugboat hull then used red Bondo auto body filler to even up any spots. It comes in a tube and sands better than any else I have tried. Al D. Salty Sea Dog and Nirvana 2 Quote The heart is happiest when the head and the hands work together. Al Current Builds: HMS Halifax 1/48 POF Lumberyard Kit Model Shipways Glad Tidings Acoustic Guitar Build FINISHED
fnkershner Posted May 13, 2014 Author #48 Posted May 13, 2014 You have me interested. How is the 2 part resin different from Epoxy? I had always assume that the 2 part stuff I bought from West Marine was Epoxy. the only difference was if you used the fiberglass tape or not. Nirvana 1 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
captainbob Posted May 13, 2014 #49 Posted May 13, 2014 Floyd, Epoxy and resin are both two part plastics that set-up and get hard. The names get confused all the time. This is what I used. Devon epoxy (Note the bottle says epoxy resin.) It is a 1:1 mixture and it does not smell as bad. Which is why I used it. I would mix a batch and then add an equal amount of alcohol to thin it to almost a water consistency. The alcohol does not change the set-up time. I would paint it on the bare wood with a brush but I heard of some who would spray it. Use a cheap brush and throw it away. Clean-up is best with acetone. The thinned mixture soaks into the wood and makes it harder. Paint it on and leave it until it dries. If you go back to touch up a spot and it is starting to set it will be gummy and mess up the finish. Bob Salty Sea Dog, Nirvana and fnkershner 3 Quote Every build is a learning experience. Current build: SS_ Mariefred Completed builds: US Coast Guard Pequot Friendship-sloop, Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard, Spray, Grand-Banks-dory, a gaff rigged yawl, HOGA (YT-146), Int'l Dragon Class II, Two Edwardian Launches In the Gallery: Catboat, International-Dragon-Class, Spray
fnkershner Posted May 13, 2014 Author #50 Posted May 13, 2014 (edited) Bob - Can you tell me where you bought it? My only experience is with West Marine Epoxy that is a 5:1 mixture. Besides hardening the wood does this also fill the gaps and cracks? Will I have a smooth base to paint? When I have used the West Marine stuff I have found it easier to spread with a plastic scraper than a brush. PS after typing the above I clicked on your link. I have a hobby town near me. Edited May 13, 2014 by Floyd Kershner Nirvana 1 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
captainbob Posted May 13, 2014 #51 Posted May 13, 2014 When you mix the "epoxy resin" it will be thick as the West Marine stuff. That is why I mix alcohol with it, to thin it out. That way it flows like paint. As for filling gaps it all depends on how large the gap is. Epoxies and resins are a glue, by definition, and like thin or thick CA the thicker the epoxy the larger gap it will fill. You might want to mix a small batch to see how it acts. Like paint it won't take much to cover a large area. Bob fnkershner and Nirvana 2 Quote Every build is a learning experience. Current build: SS_ Mariefred Completed builds: US Coast Guard Pequot Friendship-sloop, Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard, Spray, Grand-Banks-dory, a gaff rigged yawl, HOGA (YT-146), Int'l Dragon Class II, Two Edwardian Launches In the Gallery: Catboat, International-Dragon-Class, Spray
fnkershner Posted May 14, 2014 Author #52 Posted May 14, 2014 Ok I think it will be best to create a test. After all this work I don't want to mess up my hull. I will create a small section of planked hull and add putty, then sand. I will intentionally leave some small gaps and allow the planks to flex. Then it will be time to try the resin/epoxy. Nirvana and dgbot 2 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
fnkershner Posted May 14, 2014 Author #53 Posted May 14, 2014 Bob how well does it sand after curing? Can you get a nice gelcoat smooth finish? Nirvana 1 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
Nirvana Posted May 14, 2014 #54 Posted May 14, 2014 (edited) Gel coat is like a shiny separate layer, this is the one that goes dull over the years when attended to. "Understanding the materialsPolyester resin laminates achieve their highest strength when the bonds between layers of fiberglass are chemical or primary bonds as opposed to mechanical or secondary bonds. The manufacturing process for polyester boats has been developed so that a chemical bond exists between the gelcoat and the laminate. When a polyester boat is built, polyester gelcoat is first sprayed onto the mold surface. The first layer of the laminate is then applied to gelcoat, which has not completely cured. The two layers eventually cure together with a chemical bond between them. Applying gelcoat to a cured laminate relies on a mechanical bond. Because of the difference in curing chemistry, it is not possible to achieve a chemical bond between epoxy and polyester gelcoat. We developed some tests, to determine whether or not the mechanical bonds achieved between gelcoat and properly prepared, cured epoxy were strong enough to achieve a durable repair." Edited May 14, 2014 by Nirvana Quote Please, visit our Facebook page! Respectfully Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry
captainbob Posted May 14, 2014 #55 Posted May 14, 2014 Floyd, as it says in Per’s entry, there are different types of resins. There are some that will always be sticky even after curing to give them that necessary bond to the next layer. There are others that set up smooth and shiny such as some resin covered tables you see in diners. It will be best to ask the sales person at the hobby shop. What I used looked like the two bottles at the Hobby Town sight but was labeled “Casting Resin”. It had a shiny surface when it set. The only sanding required was to correct application errors. Wet sanding was best after 4 or 5 days of curing. Bob Nirvana 1 Quote Every build is a learning experience. Current build: SS_ Mariefred Completed builds: US Coast Guard Pequot Friendship-sloop, Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard, Spray, Grand-Banks-dory, a gaff rigged yawl, HOGA (YT-146), Int'l Dragon Class II, Two Edwardian Launches In the Gallery: Catboat, International-Dragon-Class, Spray
fnkershner Posted May 15, 2014 Author #56 Posted May 15, 2014 Thanks Bob, One last question - did you use rubbing alcohol? Nirvana 1 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
captainbob Posted May 15, 2014 #57 Posted May 15, 2014 Yes, I used 91% isopropyl alcohol. The vodka was being used elsewhere. Bob Nirvana, fnkershner and capnharv2 3 Quote Every build is a learning experience. Current build: SS_ Mariefred Completed builds: US Coast Guard Pequot Friendship-sloop, Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard, Spray, Grand-Banks-dory, a gaff rigged yawl, HOGA (YT-146), Int'l Dragon Class II, Two Edwardian Launches In the Gallery: Catboat, International-Dragon-Class, Spray
LMDAVE Posted May 31, 2014 #58 Posted May 31, 2014 HI Floyd, I've been away from MSW for a while since my Bluenose, and I've return because I was interested in building the Amati Endeavour kit, and to my surprise, you already started one. Every time I was trying to decide on a new build, the Amati Endeavour just keep popping out. However, I think I'm going to do the 1/80 plank-on-frame build (amati 1700-10). The 1/35 may be just a bit too big. Nice start on yours. I plan to have the bottom half stained, so I'll probably be going with the double planking, first time trying that. I still need to order my kit, but I'll definitely be following yours. Dave egkb, Nirvana and fnkershner 3 Quote San Francisco II by Artesania Latina - Scale 1:90 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/11489-san-francisco-ii-by-lmdave29-artesania-latina-scale-190/ 1/80 J Class Endeavour Yacht http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/7058-endeavour-j-class-yacht-by-lmdave-amati-180/ 1/64 MS BLUENOSE http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/90-bluenose-by-lmdave-ms-164/
fnkershner Posted July 13, 2014 Author #59 Posted July 13, 2014 (edited) Ok, It is definitely time for an update to this build log. First off a picture. Dr. Per made a house call! PS Peter this is definitely not your ship yard. Mine is a bit more lived in. Edited July 13, 2014 by Floyd Kershner egkb, LMDAVE, GrandpaPhil and 1 other 4 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
fnkershner Posted July 13, 2014 Author #60 Posted July 13, 2014 (edited) Ok, back to the log progress. First let me explain the steps up to this point and also ask for advice. As mentioned before in this log I decided that I was going to paint the hull so decided not to bother with the 2nd layer of planking. I may regret this decision as you may see. Step 1. Complete the planking Step 2. Use approx. 3 1/2 tubes of putty to cover the planking. Step 3. SANDING (lots of sanding) Ugh Step 4. Discover that at this scale there is a bigger distance between bulkheads so the planks flex more, and a lack of edge gluing can create cracks. Step 5. Another 1 1/2 tubes filling cracks etc. I found this not very useful. even with the putty covering the cracks the underlying wood would flex. Step 6. Carefully fill cracks with wood glue. This appears to work better that the putty. Step 7. More Sanding. I started with 120, moved thru 220 grit and finally 320 grit. Also as I found more cracks filled them with glue and sanded. Step 8. Spray paint 2 coats with primer. Step 9. OMG look as all the cracks! So unless someone has some knowledge I guess I am back to filling and sanding. Then repainting. so here are the pictures - Edited July 13, 2014 by Floyd Kershner Nirvana, yvesvidal and GrandpaPhil 3 Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
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