Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French 126-gun ship

[Ulises Victoria]

OK Some photos of the fix suggested by Sjors and Nigel above. Thank you guys!!!

 

You can see some of the small vertical planks I added as suggested. (This wood splinters so bad.)

 

 

Also, here is a photo of a plank I just place momentarily there for the purpose of showing the other problem I mentioned before: the gap that is going to be between the top and the next plank. I'm thinking to fill with with planks put sideways.

 

Edited September 13, 2014 by Ulises Victoria

[NMBROOK]

That looks good Ulises Other than either buying some wider lime/basswood strips for the gap or cutting narrow strips from those supplied there isn't much else that can be done .I did wonder if you worked down like normal from the bottom plank down and then notch the planks to suit the metal ports but ensuring you leave two planks gap where the ports are(like Sjors' Mirage) although not necessarily inline with the top and bottom,it would solve the gap problem.Another thing I thought of was to put a vertical strip behind in the middle of the gunports where the hull curves round.This would stop the infill pieces being straight and make them follow the curve.As ever,it is always a battle trying to put ideas in to text,so I hope this is understandable

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Sjors]

Ulises,

 

Maybe there is something else what you can try....

Instead of a very small piece at the top, you can cut two planks the size you need to get to the top.

So bottom plank has his own size, two next a little smaller.

There is a next planking goes over it ?

Then they hide the two smaller planks.

But you are on the right track!

 

Sjors

[Ulises Victoria]

Thank you both, mates. I feel a lot of support from you!!! Good ideas. Will take them into account!

[Sjors]

This is just something that happened.

When we are talking about it, there will be some how a solution to solve it.

Other builders in the future has benefit of it.

I will wait to see where you came up with       

 

Sjors

[captgino]

Hi Ulises,

 

I am loving to see this build. You are doing a great job. How many hours have you logged this far?

 

-JP

[Ulises Victoria]

Hello and thank you, JP.

I estimate around 260 hours.

I started on April 11, and I work an average of 2 hours a day, 5 days a week. That's about 10 hours a week. I think 260 hours is a pretty accurate estimate.

[captgino]

Wow, It is a considerable amount of time!

It does show in your work, detailed and precise.

 

I am looking forward to see more pictures.

 

-JP

[Dimitris71]

Hello Ulises , after a long absence from msw due to workload , i manage today to read some of the builds that i follow. You did a great job so far !! I like it very much.

 

Cheers

Dimitris

[Ulises Victoria]

Hello Dimitris. Long time no see indeed! Glad to see you back.

 

I have not posted any updates because I am working on the first plank (still). This hull is huge. It's taking me very long time. I will wait until the first planking is finished to post photos, because at the present state it doesn't look very pretty . (I'm about 80% done, though)

 

Thank you for visiting and your like.

 

Best

 

Ulises

[Jean-Pierre]

This is an excellent build, and I feel sorry I did not follow all of your efforts so far.  Your decks are wonderfully done, and I suppose you have solved the issues of how to weather, or tint, the decks.  One thing I did in the past is just tone down the deck colours with a grey wash before covering with a few layers of matte varnish.  I had been using just like you, different shades of wood, and that looked fine, but the contrast was too evident, which is never the case on a full size wooden deck.

 

Your idea of using a mosquito mesh glued on an acryl sheet also is what I use for windows.  I use curtain fabric (the type that looks like mosquito mesh, but, I think, is a little bit finer.  This fabric I paint with a mix of aluminium and matte black paint (or gunmetal colour), and I glue the fabic with PVA glue that dries transparent.  Of course, if I don't want the background to be visible, tgthen I paint the backside os the acryl sheet black (NOT sky blue as this does not look good in my opinion.  I would also cut the windows diagonally like you did, but for visible windows, I would take care to cut and glue the window at an exact angle of 45°.  Just an idea... 

 

I also understand that the Mamoli solution of the metal gun ports is far from ideal.  For instance, I noticed that the Friesland model, if built straight from the box, has the guns sticking much too far out of the hull, due presumably to metal gun ports that are not deep enough.  Of course, this may not be the case on the Royal Louis model.  Seeing what the problems of correct alignment are, seeing that the metal items do not have square corners, and finally considering the possible difficulty of sanding the first plank layer nicely flush with the metal ports, I think I would choose the solution of glueing wooden strips between the bulkheads onto which the guns would be attached.  Looks difficult, but I am sure this would be both simpler and faster than with the metal ports.

 

Just another simple idea for the deck planking.  If you should want to add the beloved treenails but find it too intricate, here is an easy alternative.  Mark the places where the treenails should come with a sewing needle (not a pin which would damage the plank ends.  Then give the tiny holes some consistancy with a sharp n°4 pencil.  This should preferably be done before weathering, so that the holes will be filled with you tinting material (or wash).

 

I look forward to seeing your hull planking.  If you are like me, you will find this one of the most rewarding parts of your nuild, and certainly not the most difficult step.

 

Happy modelling, and thanks for sharing the pics.

 

JP

[Ulises Victoria]

Thank you for your extensive post, Jean Pierre. .I find good stuff in it.

[jnarro]

Hi Ulises, dear friend, what can I say? I am learning a lot watching your log, your work and craftmanship is astounding, my little Mayflower looks like a row boat compared with your monster.

 

Cheers!!!

 

[Sjors]

Hi Ulises,

 

How is the planking going around the gun ports ?

Picture please ?

( Even if it is not finished )

 

Sjors

[Ulises Victoria]

There you go, Sjors. Just a small taste. I will post plenty of photos once the first planking is finished and finished.

Thank you all for your comments and interest!

 

 

 

[edmay]

Hello Ulises, Nice progress,there's been a lot of learning on this kit for many modelers,thanks to your followers and yourself,Edwin.

[Sjors]

Thanks for the pictures Ulises !!!

 

You have done it the right way around the gun ports !

Always nice when a plan comes together     

 

Sjors

[Ulises Victoria]

Thank you all. I have to say that these metal frames will be sanded down flush at hull level, once all the wood of the first planking is put in place. And those small gaps are of no concern. Pictures will come!

Edited December 14, 2014 by Ulises Victoria

[Sjors]

I'll be waiting for that Ulises     

 

Sjors

[ronald305]

Dear Sir 

    I'm really enjoying your build of the Royal Louis by Mamoli  and would like to ask did the Royal Louis kit come with a parts check list to see if all the parts are accounted for, reason I'm asking is I was fortunate  enough to buy one off of  

  E-bay for a decent price, also   but one of the parts trays were damage during shipping it's not the sellers fault because I saw both trays in good condition anyway I  wanted to find out if the kit came with a parts list so I can see  if all the parts are there so when I'm ready to build her she won't be missing any parts 

                                                 Ronald 

Edited December 18, 2014 by ronald305

[Ulises Victoria]

Hello Ronald.

I'm afraid there is no parts list as such. Instructions come in sheets called "tavolas". Each sheet has a list of the parts used in that particular sheet, but there is not something like a full list of all the parts needed. I'm sorry.

[ronald305]

Ok thanks 

    I will have to believe all the parts are in the kit anyway I'm going to make a parts tray just like the on that got damaged I got the tray cover it survived the trip from Canada along with other tray of parts   I forgot to mention the seller gave me some extra planking wood 

  from another kit he had to go with the Royal Louis 

                                                      Ronald 

[Jean-Pierre]

Thank you all. I have to say that these metal frames will be sanded down flush at hull level, once all the wood of the first planking is put in place. And those small gaps are of no concern. Pictures will come!

I am not a very qualified modeller, and the only time I had to sand a wooden surface with nails in it resulted in a fiasco, because, obviously, the metal was much harder to sand than the wood.  So I would say that in this case, a rotary tool with a small sanding disc will be needed not to sand too much away from the surrounding wood.  But I'm sure anyone but me will be aware of that .

 

Nice job on a nice model.

 

As for Ronald's concern about missing or damaged parts in his kit, I would suggest that he does not wait too long to check if all the parts are there.  Mamoli being (temporarily?) out of business due to fire damage, re-ordering items may be problematic.  He definitely should check if all the decorative metal pieces are OK, and if all the gun barrels are there.  Most other pieces could I suppose, be bought from other sources.

 

JP

Edited December 19, 2014 by Jean-Pierre

[ronald305]

yes you are so right JP about the parts I will need to check the rest of the parts in the kit but the decorative parts are in perfect condition 

 I will check the guns next and everything else 

                                     Ronald 

[Ulises Victoria]

Thanks for your comment, JP. A Dremel with a sanding drum was exactly what I had in mind to level up those metal frames.

The programmed order for this step would be:

1 Put all the wood of the first plank. 2 Build and shape the bulwarks. 3 Sand down the metal frames. 4 Put wood filler where needed and let cure for 24 hrs. 5 Sand down the whole hull. Easier said than done. 6 Pictures a-plenty.

[Karleop]

Que tal Ulises:

 

You are doing a terrific work with the first planking and metal frames.

 

Felices Fiestas!!  Karl 

[Ulises Victoria]

Gracias Karl. Happy holidays for you all too.

[demonborger]

I have had no trouble at all sanding down the Mamoli metal frames with sand paper. The metal is quite soft. Just remember to do it before second planking.

[foxy]

'Wow'. this is some lovely work.

 

Read through near all your posts, its a very nice learning curve for me on wooden ships.

 

Will be following this just for the entertainment.

 

Frank

[Ulises Victoria]

Hello Frank. Maybe you see it as lovely because its a work of love. There is no other way you can spend so many hours building something without getting bored.

I appreciate your kind words and likes. I will post some updates soon.

Thank you!!!