Triton by Pete38 - 1:48 - cross-section

[42rocker]

Mark

Leave them here also as it shows what a great guy Pete38 is. My thoughts for course

 

Later 42rocker

[mtaylor]

I moved them to the downloads area and removed them from here.  

 

Sorry 42rocker, Pete gets credit as I just moved his post.  I can't begin to thank others for their finds.  The reason we move them is so that visitors don't get the benefit of the drawings without signing up and doing a buid.  Too darn many pirates.....

[Pete38]

Thanks for moving them Mark, I had tried to PM you with the attached files but could not get the files to load in a pm. Moderators on this site for the online builds are doing a great job. Thanks for all the hard work.

[Pete38]

Not alot to report, haven't had much time to work on my build.

 

Still glueing up frames (this takes a while)

 

2 frames glued and ready to finish

 

 

While the glue is drying, decide to pull some treenails for the frames.  Being at 1:32 scale decide to go with 1" treenail.  (.0312)  This will be big enough to see, but not to big as to look out of place. 

 

I don't have a good grip in my hands so I can't pull them with my hands. I use a small needle nose plier and a small vise.  Pictures explain better than I can.

 

 

 

 

 

And here are the Finised Treenails. This will give me a start on them.

 

 

 

 

 

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Pete, thanks for the pictures of the stern. I don't remember them. Is the drawplate in your last pictures the Burnes plate?

I prefer for my build of HMS Fly in 1/48 .75mm treenails for the keel and the frames and 0.45mm ( which are the smallest I can do withe the veneer I have) for the planking.

[Rustyj]

Good work Pete. Pulling wood through the draw plate can be tough on the hands. I pull some,

do something else then pull some more trying to break up the pain!

[Pete38]

Thanks for looking in.  Yes, that is a Byrnes Draw plate. Nice and useful tool.

[42rocker]

Some nice tree nails that you have going there. Enjoy the larger scale.

 

Later 42rocker

[harvey1847]

At last a modeller who explains the way to make treenails!!!!!

 

You could make a practicum just with these photos.

 

THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

 

 

Daniel.

[Pete38]

Daniel,

     Thanks for looking in on my build, appreciate the comments. (Really like your full build)

 

Pictures as they say are worth a thousand words and they work for me. I am the type that you can explain something to me by talking all day and I just look at you and say

"HUH"  but show me a picture and the light comes on

[Pete38]

42 Rocker, Thanks for the comments, as stated in our pm's I found the pictures I was looking for...

 

 

So if you are interested   Here is what the 1:24 frame layout template if you want to consider the full build in this size. Better have a spare room to show it

 

 

[Pete38]

Hopefully I will have some more progress to report this weekend, still glueing up frames!

[42rocker]

Pete38

One of the things that I was NOT going to do was to even think about changing scales if I ever did a full ship model. 1:48 scale is great for a full ship model. As I understand it the 1:48 scale is about 35 inches long so I'm guessing that the ship in the pic should be about 70 inches or about 5 foot 10 inches long before we talk about masts.

Neat pic of the print, Thanks for sharing it. I'll think about having one printed up to post on the wall to look at as I work on the cross section.

 

Later 42rocker

[Matrim]

Nice thing about the larger scale is that those treenails will be easier, I always hated the last few holes when making the things. 

 

Joss

[Pete38]

Just thought I would post my little bit of progress so far  ( don't want people thinking I have not been doing anything  )

Still just glueing up the frames. Like I said this takes me a while. The first one that I had done I only let the glue dry for about 1 hour and start handling it. It came apart in my hand and I had to redo it, so now I let each glue up sit at least 2 to 3 hours befor handling it. 

 

Also doing a little drum sanding along the way.  Making sure to keep enough to fair themn in once mounted on the keel. Heres a few pic of progress

 

 

 

Here is my drum sander mounted in my drill press

 

 

I have the hose attached to the center plate on the bottom going to a vac to remove the dust. works great, just alittle bit noisy

 

 

Hopefully will get the frames done this week and start the treenail of them before mounting on the keel.

 

 

 

 

 

[russ]

Pete:
Are you clamping the glued up frames any? Clamping will definitely make for a stronger glue joint. In any event, I would definitely let them cook for at least 3 hours before handling.

 

The frames look good so far.

 

Russ

[Pete38]

Russ,  I am clamping each time a glue a section by using weights to hold down

 

Something like this each time.  I just got in to big a hurry with the first one.

 

 

[Long9Ron]

Pete

 

Frames are looking very nice. Way better than mine. 

[russ]

That is a good way to clamp the frames for drying. Make sure the entire frame is flat and that the glue joints are solid. Good work.

 

Russ

[Paddy]

Hi Pete,

Just spent the time going thru your log and want to thank you for the detail you're posting. You all have injected me with the bug to do the Triton Cross Section as my first build when I get the gantry building board finished, except I can start on the introduction page of the keel before that and get a log going. Then, on to the next step.

 

Thanks also for starting the pinned threads on the "Timber List" and "Frame Construction"

 

BTW, you do very nice work.

Edited March 22, 2013 by Paddy

[Matrim]

Looking nice and spending your time allowing the glue to set will certainly help.

 

Joss

[Pete38]

Joss and Russ-appreciate you looking in, Your comments and suggestions really help.

 

Ron-I don't know about better but they will do for my first scratch build.

 

Paddy, thank you for the compliment. Looking forward to seeing you start your build log of the cross section.

 

I have alot more pictures than what I post so that I can have a record of how I did this. Pictures help me more than a page of words.I plan on trying to post some more of how I did certain things (maybe it will help someone or someone can show me a better way)

 

As far at the list, thanks go to all the other people who started the ONLINE TRITON BUILD and to the ones who took the time to start build logs, post their progress and help those like me who really need it.

 

Thank you

[Pete38]

As stated in my previous post, here are some pictues and explanations on the way I have been doing it. If you have another way or better way please feel free to  post it here or comment (critisize)

 

When sanding the end of my frame members, I have been using a disc sander with a 320 grit paper. I use this because all the rest were a 80 grit and that was way to rough for me (takes off to much to quick) the 320 grit was just about right, had to go slow so as not to burn the end of the wood, so this let me control amount taken off. Sanded up to the line and left it.

 

Also before starting any sanding I always check the table to the disc for squareness. Even though I did not change anything between frame I found the table had move a little after each use. (no matter how much I tightened it)  THIS IS A MUST

 

 

[Pete38]

When cutting the notches in the frames for the keel and keelson I use my mill. I know you can do this easily by hand, but the mill was there 

I started by making sure the vise I was using was square and straight with the head by using a dial indicator to indiacte it in (within .002 to .003 straight)
I would then clamp the frame sections in with the line just even with the top of the vise. On the first one I did I set the depth that I would need. This will keep all the remaining frame members cutting to the same depth and repeatability.
 

 

Then I used a 3\8 4 flute end mill to cut the notchs.

 

 

Using the Keelson or Keel I would check the fit of each cut and adjust as need with the mill or a 150 grit sanding stick

 

 

Doing it this way for me also let me keep the notch square with the frame as I would also check this each time.

 

 

Hope this helps someone

[Old Sea Dog]

very nice work

[russ]

Pete:

That milling bit looks scary. The finished product looks very good. Nice work.

 

Russ

[Long9Ron]

Very nice clean cut Pete. Your lucky to have a mill bit. I just used my scroll saw and steady hands. Well, sort of steady hands... 

[42rocker]

Pete

What I was thinking about was when I finally get to the point where your at was to use a jewelry's saw and cut the vertical sides on the lines before I ran the mills end cutter so I would not have to worry about tearing out the sides of the frame cut. Looks like you did not have any problems with tear out. Maybe I won't do that cut.

Any thoughts?

 

Looks like a sherline 2000 mill that you are using? Nice I've the regular sherline mill.

 

Your work is looking great. Have a great day.

 

Later 42rocker

Edited March 21, 2013 by 42rocker

[Matrim]

Ack! I never considered using a mill to cut out that joint before. Saying that on my next model it is likely to be slightly angled so it will still be by hand but for the cross section it is a great idea.

 

Joss

[Pete38]

Thanks for the reply gnetlemen,

 

42rocker, depending on the type of wood you may gets some tear out on the edges. Try a test piece first and if this happen but a "sacrifice" piece of wood behind it to eliminate the tearout. Something like you do when you router the endgrain on a board.