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  • 4 months later...
Posted

Please tell us more about your process. How did you get her sanded down so nicely? :o Also what stain did you use? Are you soaking those ribs?

Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren

Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18

On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, 

 

Its a sailor's Life for me! :10_1_10:

Posted (edited)

Sorry fnkershner, I guess I should of added that. My bad

To be honest I tippy-toed my way thru this. Once I got my lifts glued together I used 120 grit sandpaper to slowly sand the outer hull. Once it looked close to the drawings and pictures then I switched to 150 grit and checked my progress using a pair if calipers. I didnt use a big piece of sandpaper, I folded the sandpaper about 3 times so it was about 1 inch by half inch so I had more control over it. I used the 6 lines under the plan drawing as section cuts and thats where I took my measurements at.

Once the outer hull was close, I Did the same on the inner hull (which was a pain). I'm still not pleased with it. The stern was the hardest part. It was hard to get that crisp angle between the transom and the "side planking". And again I used the calipers to get it down to 1/32.

 

Next time I do a boat using the lift method I'm going to sand the "laser cut" burn marks off. I assumed they would disappear as I sanded, but it didnt.

As far as the staining is concerned I've been using minwax products. Just the natural stain and the golden oak. but I make sure to use the pre-stain which I leave on for about 10 minutes before staining. Then I apply the stain (just a single swipe each way) and wipe it off after about a minute or so. 

 

Yes, I did soak the ribs before fitting. I used some old kappler lumber I've had from my model railroad days. The 1/32 x 1/32 strips that came with the kit were terrible. I spent alot of time trying to sand it properly, but after a while I just gave up and I found out that a HO scale 2 x 2 is almost the same as 1/32 x 1/32.

 

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I hope this helps.

 

Richard

Edited by kscadman

Current Build - U.S. Syren

 

2nd Build - HMS Bounty Launch

 

When organizing your thoughts, never use the Dewey Decimal system.

Posted

Thanks for the details. I struggled with this. I had decided this would be a nice project to work on while I waited for soaking or paint drying on my Syren. I must confess I got so frustrated I gave up. You have given me hope. Thank you!

Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren

Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18

On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, 

 

Its a sailor's Life for me! :10_1_10:

Posted (edited)

I hear your frustration! Its taken way too long for me to get where I'm at.

 

Do you have a build log for your Syren?

 

 

Edited by kscadman

Current Build - U.S. Syren

 

2nd Build - HMS Bounty Launch

 

When organizing your thoughts, never use the Dewey Decimal system.

Posted

I do have a log. I am not nearly as far along as you are. I will use your log to help me.

Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren

Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18

On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, 

 

Its a sailor's Life for me! :10_1_10:

Posted (edited)

I finally found some time for modelling. I managed to finish installing all the ribs and added some floor boards.

I used some scrap .028 wire that came with the kit to use as spacers between the floorboards. I just bent them until they friction fitted over the installed floorboard. It proved to work well.

 

Also I made the tie down hooks and the hooks that will go on the davit blocks for my jolly boat.

 

Richard

 

 

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Edited by kscadman

Current Build - U.S. Syren

 

2nd Build - HMS Bounty Launch

 

When organizing your thoughts, never use the Dewey Decimal system.

Posted

Its been a good weekend for working in the shipyard. I completed the floorboards, grates, and thwart supports.

I needed to enlarge the plans so I could locate the thwarts properly so I made a PDF of part of the sheet and enlarged it to 118% which passed the "measurement" test.

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Current Build - U.S. Syren

 

2nd Build - HMS Bounty Launch

 

When organizing your thoughts, never use the Dewey Decimal system.

Posted

I continued with the gripes for the stern jolly boat. I found some leather strapping at the local arts and crafts store. Its scale size is 6" width X 3" thickness. I discovered that I could use a straight edge razor and scrape the underside of the leather strap to thin it to a scale 1" thickness. I've been finding many ways to secure the gripes, but nothing definitive, so I may have to go with my best theory as to how it is secured.

I have a question as to how to secure the davit block ropes. I've seen some where it is secured to an eyebolt on the outer side of the davit and I've seen some where the rope goes thru the davit. Any help as to which is correct?

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Current Build - U.S. Syren

 

2nd Build - HMS Bounty Launch

 

When organizing your thoughts, never use the Dewey Decimal system.

Posted

Happy Thanksgiving to all that celebrate it. After much turkey eating I was able to get some work done on my long boat. I completed the thwarts and added a mast step.

When making the windlass I had a bit of a time figuring out how to get the the cuts correct. So I decided to make a jig. I took some 3/32 brass tube and filled down one side about 1/64 which made a nice flat spot in order to glue it onto  piece of wood. On the ends I used a straight razor and just glided it along the brass tubing once I made my stop cuts. It gave me nice level smooth finish. The middle section was tricky. I used a #11 blade and repeated the process but I found that it would try to cut deeper into the wood. But after 2 more attempts I managed to get a fairly good result. I used a flat diamond file to finish the diagonal cuts.

Now I need to make the cap rail. The one that came with the kit was a little too short lengthwise.

 

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Current Build - U.S. Syren

 

2nd Build - HMS Bounty Launch

 

When organizing your thoughts, never use the Dewey Decimal system.

Posted (edited)

Thanks Thomas.

 

Does anyone have information about how the sprit step should look like? The plans and instructions are a bit vague.

Edited by kscadman

Current Build - U.S. Syren

 

2nd Build - HMS Bounty Launch

 

When organizing your thoughts, never use the Dewey Decimal system.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Fantastic boat....nicely done and the pics are an excellent tutorial!

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Wow, finally! The momentous occasion has arrived for me. I've finished my long boat and now I can install them and begin the masting and rigging. I have to admit making the knees was quite the adventure. I went thru several trials before I found a way to make them. I ended up taking a piece of 3/32 x 3/32 strip wood and filed the rounded edges then I used a straight razor and cut them to size.

I have my jolly boat hung from the davits so now I need to make the gripes and the fender! 

I have a question for the group. What seizing was used for the long boat and were the rudder and oars seized to the long boat??

 

Thank you all for your kind comments and likes! Patrick, thank you for your comment, as a newbie to the craft it is highly appreciated! 

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Edited by kscadman

Current Build - U.S. Syren

 

2nd Build - HMS Bounty Launch

 

When organizing your thoughts, never use the Dewey Decimal system.

Posted

Looks great! I was looking at the davits on mine yesterday and thought it looked empty without any kind of lifeboat hanging. You just might have inspired me to make one for mine too. I don't know the proper way to rig/hang/ block it. Need to do some research.

 

Jesse

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Thanks Jesse I've been doing a lot of research, I've also made a post on the subject titled "Puddened gripes". Also in the book "Historic Ship Models" it shows some examples of hanging the boat from the stern davits. It looks like I'll have to close the aft gunport lids to make it work properly. What I haven't been able to find out is how to secure the gripes.

 

By the way, what seizing did you use to secure your long boat?

 

Richard

 

Edited by kscadman

Current Build - U.S. Syren

 

2nd Build - HMS Bounty Launch

 

When organizing your thoughts, never use the Dewey Decimal system.

Posted

I was able to get the chocks made and installed and I finally got my long boat installed. Now I just need to tie down the sweeps and the long boat. I'm working on the gripes for the jolly boat. I've been testing to see if I can trim down the leather to scale thickness. I started by using a straight razor but I switched over to a file which seems to be working well.

 

Thank you Thomas for your compliment.

 

Richard

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Current Build - U.S. Syren

 

2nd Build - HMS Bounty Launch

 

When organizing your thoughts, never use the Dewey Decimal system.

Posted

Hey Richard, I didn't know what to do there. The instructions didn't say. The pictures just showed basic seizing, just wrapping around for a short ways up so thats all I did. I wondered that myself when I got to it but could not find any info on it. I guess I should have asked.

 

I'll have to look that book up, it's one I don't have. Good to find someone else building the Syren to ask questions and bounce ideas off of.

 

Jesse

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Hi Jesse, I know what you mean. I haven't found a drawing that shows how its secured to the hull or deck. I was working with it yesterday and the davits may be too long to use the gripes.

Yes, you're right. I'm always looking for advice. You're farther along than me so I'll probably have some questions.

 

Richard

 

Current Build - U.S. Syren

 

2nd Build - HMS Bounty Launch

 

When organizing your thoughts, never use the Dewey Decimal system.

Posted (edited)

I've made the gripes and installed the eyebolts to the transom. Attached are the pictures of my test "fit" of the gripes.

 

Please give me some feed back. I'm entering unknown seas and I'd like to have some navigation from a more experienced skipper. I haven't made the fender yet and I'm curious to know if the boat resting on the port lid would be proper.

 

Richard

 

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Edited by kscadman

Current Build - U.S. Syren

 

2nd Build - HMS Bounty Launch

 

When organizing your thoughts, never use the Dewey Decimal system.

Posted

That looks REALLY nice, Richard! It gives those davits a purpose. Do you leave the rear gun ports open?

 

Thomas

Current Built:   Model Shipways  Syren  (US Brig 1803)

 

Last Built:        Anfora (kit bashed)  Ictineo II  (1st steam powered submarine 1864)

 

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