Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by Dee_Dee - FINISHED - Midwest Products – 1:24 – Kit Bashed - Small

[Dee_Dee]

Cockpit Floor

I added width to the cockpit and esthetically it works, but it’s not right.  Per the Midwest blue prints, the cockpit floor is ~18” lower than the deck and the benches are 9” in height – not too comfy nor safe.      

 

Chapelle’s drawing shows the benches, but no floor.  On page 272, there is discussion about the floor:  “Five floors were the most used, and many boats had none.  The floors, if used, were of plank and were placed on top of the frames rather than beside them or were located clear of the frames and fastened to keel and planking.”  

 

Long ago we owned a four digit wood hull lightning built in the mid 1950’s.  I found some pictures of other Lightnings and the light bulb went on!  Check out the photos below. 

 

Chapelle’s comment is now starting to make sense:   “…..and were placed on top of the frames…”    I’m thinking the floor planks would look similar to this mock up.  This would drop the floor height to ~29” (top of the femur) making it safer, more comfortable seat height and much cheaper to build.

 

07 05 2016  Looking for these photos.......

What do you think? 

 

 

Lightning sailboat cockpit and floor boards – I really like those seats!

Note how tight the fit is for the centerboard

07 05 2016  Looking for these photos.......

 

 

 

 

These seat are not as fancy

07 05 2016  Looking for these photos.......

 

(Edited 11/26/2014 to add back photos.....)

Edited July 5, 2016 by Dee_Dee

[russ]

Even with a few oops, your model looks very good. If you had not mentioned them, I would not have noticed. Your model has a very pleasing shape and color scheme. Good work.

 

Russ

[Dee_Dee]

The Centerboard and CB Handle

 

The kit brass handle gives the ‘hint’ of a centerboard.  IMHO, the handle needs to be permanently attached to the CB.  If you sailed into shallow water or hit a rock shelf that the Muscongus Bay is famous for, the centerboard needs to be quickly pulled up to prevent it from being damaged.   

 

Centerboards were made from solid white oak (or similar dense wood) with iron rods or wrought iron straps to weigh it down.  But these would rot, swell, jamb and eventually cause catastrophic failure.  Half inch boiler plate steel was also used, but prone to rusting.  (Need to research timeline on galvanizing and copper paint.) The best material was brass or bronze – but that was very expensive and these are work boats. 

 

I found a website with info on numerous classic wood sailboats.  One boat on this list, “#5445 – The Rudder 20-Footer by William F. Crosby” is similar in size with the MBLS.  The centerboard on this boat was made of 1/2” galvanized iron and weighed 220 pounds.  http://www.dngoodchild.com/divide_for_sail_boats.htm  There are other boats with lots of info and drawings on this web site.

 

In life size, centerboards were about 1/2" thick – in scale size that is1/32” and begging to be broken off.  For this build, I’m thinking of cutting the CB from a sheet of brass or aluminum and cladding it with walnut.  In the photos of the Lightning (prior post) you can see the tight fit of the CB inside the trunk.  .

 

Here are some photos of an MBLS that was restored / modified.  More photo’s available on this link.   http://www.davidjonesclassics.com/sail/2053/amaryllis-26-muscongus-bay-sloop-22-19500/

 

Electrical added and fish wells removed.  Note the opening in the centerboard trunk and the rope which is attached to the CB.

07 05 2016  Looking for these photos....... 

 

07 05 2016  Looking for these photos.......

 

07 05 2016  Looking for these photos.......

Not a great photo, but shows the CB

Edited July 5, 2016 by Dee_Dee

[popeye the sailor]

very nice job Dee Dee.  love the two tone...the walnut renders some sweet wood grain.

[Dee_Dee]

Rudder

Next time I’ll hold off on making the rudder until the planking is done.  This rudder is made from 1/8” square basswood and a bamboo skewer clad with walnut. 

Funny story about this rudder:  After I took some photos out on the balcony, I gathered up the parts and heard a golfer calling ‘fore!’  I looked out to the golf course just in time to see my rudder sailing off my third floor balcony.  I ran down the stairs out the door and happily it landed on the grass and not in the bushes.  Still need to remake the tiller

 

Cockpit Combing

There was no way I was going to get walnut to bend to make these combings.  So again, I used the kit part and added a layer of walnut. 

Per the drawings in Chapelle’s book, the windows were square with sliding covers and consistent with other contemporary boats.  Next time I’ll figure this out and get these added.      

 

Hatch Opening

I’ve resigned myself to the fact that this hatch opening needs a whole lot of improvement.  I could remove the cabin roof and try again, however, the real issue goes back to prepping the F2 bulkhead. 

07 05 2016  Looking for these photos.......

 

(Edited 11/29/2014 to add photos back)

Edited July 5, 2016 by Dee_Dee

[captainbob]

If you had not pointed out the things you don't like everyone would be saying, " Wow, what a nice boat."

 

Bob

[popeye the sailor]

exactly!  the nuts of it Dee Dee is.......you got a nice build here.  there may be a few small details that aren't quite right,  but your effort shows though like a beacon.   you could do like I did and scratch out another ship........I went  'off subject'  with my lobster boat......made for a real fine time of it,  as a result.   I wouldn't change a thing with this one though........you did great! 

[Dee_Dee]

(Was hoping to do all updates last night, but Mother Nature’s Light Show put an end to that!)

 

Planking

 

With one minor exception, I’m really happy with the second planking!  

 

The exception:  The first planking (balsa wood) was crushed on the port side near the fish wells when I left on an extra rubber band while gluing on the cabin roof.  The first planking near the bow was sanded down so that after the second planking was added, the bow would be close to the 1/8” thickness and transition smoothly to the cutwater.   In hindsight, I should have sanded down the first planking at the deck line the full length on each side. 

07 05 2016  Looking for these photos.......

 

The next time I build this boat, I’ll do actual first and second planking and borrow a step from the Corel Sloup.

On the Corel sloup, there is a false flat bulkhead, these three pictures tell how I plan to do it.      

Corel’s false flat bulk head

07 05 2016  Looking for these photos.......

 

Adapting Corel’s false flat bulk head to MBLS

07 05 2016  Looking for these photos.......

 

 

Planking pattern for MBLS.  After the second planking is complete, I’ll add the cutwater.   

07 05 2016  Looking for these photos.......

 

 

This brings me up to date.  There are lots of small parts still to make before getting to the mast, rigging and sails. 

I’m having fun with this build. 

 

Thanks for stopping by.    

 

(Edited 11/29/2014 to add photos back)

Edited July 5, 2016 by Dee_Dee

[Dee_Dee]

Bob, Popeye, Russ,

 

Thanks for stopping by.  I totally agree with you with you that with discreet photos, no one would know where the oop’s are.     

 

When I started this build (over two months ago) I had no idea how to make all the changes I had planned. But I just kept on reading and studying other build logs, asked questions and some trial and error.  I really like these Midwest boats and have learned a lot while researching them.

 

This build is turning out much better than I thought it would and I’m happy with it!  I’m adding some of the oop’s to help anyone who may want to do the same.  

 

I do have plans to build another MBLS and make all the changes / improvements that I have mentioned so far and a few more.  I’m looking forward to that build and have been shopping for various materials I'll need!  

 

Thanks again for stopping by

 

Dee Dee

 

(Edited to correct grammar)

Edited May 21, 2013 by Dee_Dee

[BillThePill]

I am a newbie thinking about building this kit and am thankful Model Ship World is slowly being reconstructed and build logs are reappearing. Pardon my introducing myself this way, but when I view the first 2 pages of this log there are a lot of jpg images missing - I only see the names of the jpg files.

Has anyone else observed this? (am I seeing things?) I'd love to learn as much as possible about what can be done with this introductory kit.

Thanks for taking the time to share what they've learned with the rest of us!

[popeye the sailor]

sometimes you may have to wait for them to pop in.   if that doesn't work......refresh the browser.

[Dee_Dee]

Hi Bill -

Thanks for letting me know about this - I was cleaning out files and I obviously deleted the wrong photos!

I'll get this fixed ASAP and let you know when done.  

I've been having fun building this kit and making all the changes.  Please let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks again

Dee Dee

[h2ogoaliekk]

Dee Dee,

 

I must say, you Lobster Smack is turning out much prettier than my own.  I'm new to MSW and this is my first build.  I hope to add my build log soon.  In the mean time, I will be checking yours frequently to see what the model is supposed to look like

 

Kirk

[Dee_Dee]

My Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack is entering what I call the 'Cinderella Phase'.

 

The hull is 98% complete.  I’m really happy with the planking and the look of the walnut wood, especially the black streak on the port side. It took a lot of scraping (and vacuuming) to get the smooth finish.  I tried some mahogany stain on the hatch cover, I like the effect, but it’s too red, so I’ll get some walnut stain.  

 

The tiller / rudder and centerboard are done but they are fragile and will be permanently added after the rigging and sails are complete.   I finally figured out the hatch cover:  I wanted a ‘working’ hatch cover, but that is not going to happen on this build.  So for now, the hatch cover will be held in place with rubber cement. 

 

The ‘kit supplied cleats’ are flat stamped and 'blah' so I used the cleats from my Phantom.  These cleats measure 1/4” in length / or 6” in life size.  I’ll darken these cleats with some paint.   

 

For the mast, I replaced the kit supplied 7mm basswood dowel with a 6mm square walnut blank.  While the base is a bit undersized, it was possible to taper it down to 3mm.  I burnished the walnut with a hardwood block to get the glossy smooth finish.  To fill the gap in the deck, I made a mast coat and will use wedges to position the mast with a dab of glue since there are no shrouds.    

 

The ‘To Do List:’ 

• The boom and gaff will also be made from walnut to match the mast.    
• I need to purchase some walnut blocks to replace the squishy soft wood kit supplied blocks.  I also need to get some brass for the goose neck.   
• For the finish, I’ll use some walnut stain to even up the color, then another coat of tung oil.
• I have big plans for the trail boards…… 
• The kit calls for brass / black iron mast hoops, but the kit supplied brass is a bit on the thin side, so will use some heavier wire.  
• One of my other hobbies sewing, from haute couture, heirloom machine sewing, quilting, home décor and everything in between, so I will be making sails.  I will also try making sails from tissue paper following welfalcks’ instructions from his zuiderzee botter.  

I'm done traveling for the summer, so hopefully I can finish this build soon.  While I'm waiting for the parts I need, I might start either the Midwest Flattie or Bluenose 1:100 that are on the shelf.  

 

Thanks for stopping by, any suggestions are welcome.  

 

Dee Dee

07 05 2016  Looking for all of these photos.......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A close up showing the grain of walnut, almost looks like it is 'woven'

 

 

 

 

(Edited 11/29/2014 to add photos back)

Edited July 5, 2016 by Dee_Dee

[russ]

The model looks like it is coming along really well. Nice work on the plankng.

 

Russ

[popeye the sailor]

very nice build.........glad to see your back!

[michael mott]

Hi Dee Dee the boat is looking really fine, the contrasts of the dark and light woods works very well. I would be happy to have my models look as nice when they get to your stage.

 

Michael

[petehay]

Love the crates

[captainbob]

Dee Dee it's looking better all the time.  I've missed you and your build.  Glad you are still building.

 

Bob

[PopJack]

Beautiful work

[capnharv2]

Very, VERY nice!

[themadchemist]

Seeing more update of this one really makes me want to build my Smack next.

Excellent work Dee Dee and isn't wood grain just fabulous. I love the beauty of wood and your build really uses that to its fullest effect.

 

Can't wait to see the rigging work start.

[shawn32671]

I'm thinking about getting one of these very soon. Looks like a really cool boat. Great job on yours.

 

EDIT: I just bought one on Amazon for less than $20.00 and can't wait to tackle this after some other builds. This is becoming an obsession lol. I'm really liking this hobby.

Edited October 3, 2013 by shawn

[Dee_Dee]

Shawn, this has been a fun build and I have enjoyed it immensely.  I’ve learned a lot that will carry forward.  I just finished all the small details (except one and the sails) and will post an update later this evening. 

 

Marios build log was my inspiration, check out his build log here:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1221-muscongus-lobster-smack-by-teleman-midwest-124/?hl=muscongus

 

Hope you enjoy your build.

[Dee_Dee]

I’M FINALLY DONE!  YIPPEE!  DOING THE HAPPY DANCE!!! 

 

Well, almost done.  I still need to add the trail boards – more on that later.  I also still need to make the sails, but that will be in a separate post. 

I think this has to be one of the slowest builds ever!  EIGHT (8) months to build a model that I could have finished sooner, but I decided to take my time, enjoy and learn. 

I took these photos a few days ago when we had good sunlight.  It was clouds and rain today and the same is forecasted for the next 5+ days.  These photos are missing three rope coils which were added today.  When the weather gets better, I’ll add a few more photos with the rope coils and the cockpit floor boards. 

 

 

 

The following 'details' are to help other Newbies.   

 

GEORGE WASHINGTON FITTINGS

I made numerous fittings with the help of George Washington, more commonly known as a one dollar bill.  I cut thin strips from a one dollar bill to make the mast hoops and iron rings on the mast, boom and gaff. 

Through trial and error I found that a lightly worn dollar bill works best, as the CA glue is able to permeate the paper better.  I used a permanent black marker on the paper BEFORE cutting and gluing.  The ink / paint will quickly wear off if applied after gluing. 

So far, the mast hoops and iron bands cost about $0.68.

 

MAST HOOPS

I made the mast using a full width strip of George x 2.5 – 3.0mm high.  After saturating the hoops in CA glue, I let them cure for a couple of days, and then sanded them down to a thickness between 1.47 and 1.59mm, or about 1.75” in life size.  I started with 14 mast hoops and ended up with 13.

I made the mast hoops for my Phantom this same way and sanded these down to an average thickness of 0.8mm (one mast hoop is 0.57mm.)

  

MAST / BOOM IRON BANDS

The paper for these bands needs to be cut to exact finished width since they cannot be sanded down to thickness.  For this scale, two wraps did the job and left enough paper / iron to sand smooth the edge.  After sanding, I touched up the raw edges of paper and then strengthened with a dab of CA glue.   

 

MAST

I replaced the kit 7mm mast with a walnut mast and added lots of details.  I added three iron bands under each block.  These also work great to camouflage a wayward drilling.  I also added a shoulder rest for the boom and a mast coat, both were made from layered walnut strips.  The drilling for the cleats got really skewered, oh well!      

 

TRAVELER

I added the traveler early on and that was an ‘oops’ waiting to happen and it got squished.  I pulled that one out and made a new traveler from heavier brass rod.  To keep it from getting squished again, I slid a 1/16” spacer under it.

 

BOOM

To improve how the boom was connected to the mast, I added a yoke to the boom that will rest on the shoulder I added to the mast.  I also added two iron bands.   

 

GAFF

I added an iron band for the block.  The blue prints show one block placed at the base of the gaff, this should have been moved out approximately 1/8” to get a better ‘line’ with the rigging. 

 

PARRELL BEADS        

A vial of #11 seed beads will last you a lifetime of building and still have enough left over for a couple of friendship bracelets. 

Instead of using black beads, I chose a multicolor bead in a muted purple color.  These beads have flecks of gray and tan that give them a weathered look.  They blend in really well.    

 

BLOCKS

After lots of experimenting, I came up with a simplified method.  While not technically correct, they look great!  All knots were secured with CA glue applied on the tip of a pin.   

 

RIGGING

The kit supplied rope was replaced with Griffin Silk beading cord, in size 1, 3 and 6.  This stuff is great and looks a thousand times better than the kit rope. 

I used a specialty thread in size 0 to secure the boom and gaff until I add the sails.  This thread measures 0.07mm and is extremely strong!   

Here are some photos, when we are done with the rain, I’ll add a couple more photos that include all rope coils and the floor boards.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Questions, thoughts, comments, suggestions are greatly appreciated, 

 

I've started my next build, Bluenose 1:100, but that is on hold until I clean out the boat yard from top to bottom.  

 

 

(Edited 11/29/2014 to add photos back)

(Edited 4/9/15 to add photos back)

Edited April 9, 2015 by Dee_Dee

[popeye the sailor]

glad to see your build 'almost' finished Dee Dee      she looks absolutely splendid.......nice wood grain colors,  and very cleanly done.

   

     don't know what you mean about the rigging.......it looks really nice.  you did a really super job.....sweet!

[shawn32671]

Looking good Dee Dee

[capnharv2]

Excellent job DeeDee!!!

[hexnut]

DeeDee, that looks amazing. Beautiful finishes and great detailing! 

[pete48]

Excellent job the Hull looks Fantastic, Very Inspiring I plan to Build a Smack next so I may borrow a few of your Ideas. Hats off to a great looking Boat

 

Best Regards,

Pete