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  3. I wrote the script for its’ status on the log. It’s the only way it would have sensibly have been tenable. I’m Getting my head around the usually poor Korean instructions and wondering how the hell I’ll paint her but get silly with superdetailing her.
  4. Jan, You came up with an interesting dilemma First question is the state of readiness of the build ...
  5. This first attempt. I made lot of the attemps to make result who satisfied me.
  6. Hi Dowmer, deck clamps are made from pear wood. I use the old bender (first picture) for wood bending. Not the shaped end, but the heating tube to which I place a water-soaked cloth. Steam from the water heats the wood and makes the bending easier. The deck clamps are attached to the hull. Now I am going to finish the stern.
  7. Hello Tony, Welcome to MSW.
  8. I used to live in Church, just next door to you. Now in Horwich. Nice to see another Lancastrian here!!
  9. Try Klear floor wax or Pledge 🙂 Great Build! Dirk
  10. Pulling up a chair, as this model is on my wishlist as well - and in the scale I want.
  11. very nice project Karl, I wish you good success in all sequences.... Nils
  12. Ah, missed this thread, I just asked you a question on the config you are going to build. You already answered it Jan
  13. Graf Z never made it to the sea. (Only to be destroyed by the Russians). What configuration are you going to build: a 'what if'-version: weathered, battle damaged, or the 'as-build', unfinished, nicely painted, and without planes? Jan
  14. Jeez. Kits have certainly evolved since the Airfix kits that I last built as a kid !!! Looking good, Slog ... real good.
  15. Wellcome to CS fleet! I pull my chair and watch wirh interest
  16. Hi All, Just a quick update. Below is the resin wheels and disc brakes and the kit front undercarriage all cleaned up. There is a supplied piece of PE to replace the kit A-Arm at the top but decided not to use it. Here is all the undercarriage parts and wheel well doors almost ready for prime. I still have to clean up the filler used for some small ejection pin marks. I will prime everything in 1500 surfacer. I also did the decals on the port side and came out not to bad. The problematic nose decal went down a lot better this time around as knew what to expect this time. Still a couple of touch ups needed. The nose decal is a different shape from the artwork so will need to extend the anti glare black from the canopy forward inline with the front of the red. I will need to also touch up with some red to meet the canopy black and will need to touch up with red on the underside where the decals meet but other than that pretty chuffed how it turned out. That’s the decals complete other than a couple on each wheel. Just a quick mock-up of the cockpit. The cockpit PE top trim can just be made out (not glued yet) and a couple of coloured PE side consoles attach to this. Still got bits and pieces to add to the seat also. The yellow ‘rubber’ seals are actually decals and went on pretty well to the front screen but the main canopy came in two halves and messed up slightly on the ‘practice’ side but know why and this side went on pretty good. Hopefully get some priming done before I head off again tomorrow night. Cheers Slog
  17. The "Startle" is the worst.... Sounds like the Bowsprit/Jibboom is reaching out for the wall, rather the other way around.... Yup, the Cutty is long and requires special handling. (One post I saw some time ago, was that one modeller left the Jib Boom off, (Don't recall the model), until the last.... Didn't work for me as many Forestays terminate on this. (Had the same issues as you Chap, how to protect wots already done.) And, yes, I had some "Breakerages" contributing to hours lost. No Vino Collapso/Oblitarato either.... (Sorry, couldn't help myself.... 😀) Definitely, No cats, esp. Abyssinians!! Cheers....HOF.
  18. You Gave Me a Mountain. Frankie Laine. (Probably best known version by Elvis).
  19. If you haven't already take a look at the cutters on this page https://modelshipworld.com/gallery/category/4-gallery-of-contemporary-models-from-museums-and-private-collections/?sortby=album_last_img_date&albumPage=2 The gun ports are all over the place. I'd dummy mount a cannon to ensure you've the clearance to mount one without fouling the port lid at full elevation. I'm pretty sure I had to fiddle with mine just because of this. Rick
  20. Hello Model Friends. After much research and more considerations, I decided to build the model of the "ROYAL CAROLINE 1749". The history of the Royal Caroline has been written x times, so I'll give up on more details. After the sparse construction drawings, as well as various to scale without drawings in the book by AotS I have strong doubts about the success of the project, but I try it anyway. The plan drawings by Boudriot, Delacroix from ANCRE publishing house, on the other hand, are top class in their own right, i very first cream. Thanks Mike for the help of the frame drawings. To the model: Scale: 1/48 Wood: German Elsbeere Overall lenght: 655,0 mm I will build the model with visible frames from the second barwood, as well as the interior. I have already installed the "backbone" of the model on/in the slipway building board. There are no photos of the individual parts, smoothly forgotten. Next step is the construction of forty-five douple frames, each frame consists of twelve parts, so I am busy in the near future. Karl (Sorry, Google translator)
  21. Gidday Tony and another warm welcome from the Land Downunder. You have found a site where the members knowledge and expertise is second to none. One suggestion is to look at the various build logs as they may assist in deciding which ship you build. I still look into various build logs for inspiration and to assist in problem solving. I wish you all the best in your endeavours. Mark.
  22. Floquil, (God rest it's soul.) once made great weathered wood stains in various colors for "weathered oak," "driftwood" and so on. Sadly, it's no longer available. (Environmental concerns, don'tcha know.) There are commercial weathering stains. Another approach is to use thinned colors... blacks, greys, browns, to suit your taste. Apply the thinned color thickly on horizontal surfaces (lay the piece down and paint the top side) and let the solvent soak in and dry. That should carry more color into the deeper grain pockets. It looks like that's what you've got going already in your pictures. What you've done looks pretty good, if that's what you were looking for. It sure looks like weathered wood to me!
  23. Just has to be! My brain has had enough. I want to get on with the planking.
  24. Yes, Simple Green is great stuff. However, it is apparently mildly acidic. Two caveats: 1) It will bleach some woods. Teak for sure, at least. Not as much as, say. citric or oxalic acid, which are used for serious bleaching (and in often-too-strong a solution in many commercial "teak bleaches.") I used to use Simple Green regularly on my teak decks when washing them down. It kept them looking great. 2) More critically, strong solutions of Simple Green may dissolve yellow metal (copper, brass, bronze) patina, which then can end up running to adjacent areas and staining them. (Such as white topsides on a yacht with bronze deck hardware.) The moral of the story with Simple Green is to use it judiciously in a weak solution and experiment first in an area hidden from view to make sure it isn't going to cause problems. It smells good, but straight out of the bottle, it's pretty strong stuff.
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