jonny.amy

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About jonny.amy

  • Birthday 07/18/1992

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southampton, UK
  • Interests
    Interests include: Sailing, Kayaking, Rowing, Naval History, Playing Electric & Bass Guitars, Playing in a Band, and building scale models
  1. Hi Chris, My experience with airbrushing is limited (I am relatively new to the whole airbrushing thing), but the area of paint applied will be directly dependant on whether or not you thin the paint. I'd suggest reading around and finding out the best thinning ratios for the paint that you are using and then buy an extra pot of the paint to test your thinning ratios. I've been thinning Gloss White with 2 drops of White to 8 drops of thinner. This makes a very wet paint that is applied, but dries very quickly and then can be re-coated fairly soon afterwards. If you buy a cheap plastic model (best to work on something similar to your final project) you can see how the mix ratios then react with rounded surfaces such as the tumblehome of a hull. Cheers, Jonny
  2. I think I would also like to see a POF model of e.g. a British or French 6th Rate in a reasonable scale (1/64 or 1/48) available to buy in 3 "Modules": Bow, Midships and Stern. I'd suggest each section be similar in size and each module could be bought for sub $200, so that the work could be phased and planned to suit building a model of reasonable size. That way one could build a 28 gun Frigate without the masses of space required (for example a dedicated room/garage/hobby shop) and tools to build a a full POF model. This would also allow each model to be sold by the manufacturer individually or as a bundle with a slight reduction in price, for example $200 each or $550 for "Modules A, B, & C". Just a thought....
  3. I'd like to suggest a more obscure type of vessel - this is a Merchant Brig circa 1795 bought in to the Royal Navy to test Centerboards / Drop Keels on larger vessels. This design was developed and investigated by John Schank. http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66542.html The National Maritime Museum says: "Schank entered the navy at a young age, and was known for his skill in ship construction and mechanical design. While he was a lieutenant in 1776 he was in charge of assembling ships to battle the American Revolutionaries on Lake Champlain. He constructed HMS 'Inflexible', which he also commanded as part of a fleet that defeated General Benedict Arnold's fleet in October 1776. He was made a captain in 1783, and bought his design for ships with sliding keels before the Admiralty, which was incorporated by the Admiralty into ships. In 1821 Schank attained the rank of admiral of the blue". Scale: 1/64th to 1/32nd Size: Max. 800mm Period: 1750-1900's. Nationality: Don't care Building method: POB or POF: POF preferred if laser cut (consider POF method used for Longboat and Pinnace as 'easier' introduction to POF building??). Materials: Basswood / Lime - not Walnut (unless it has a very fine/even grain) Cost: sub $500 inc. shipping to mainland UK/Europe.
  4. Glad to be of help Tony - Happy modelling! Oh and let me know how you get on with the preformed hulls, they've peaked my interest a number of times. Some how I doubt the Admiral will allow another ship for the fleet (with 8 static models in the house - half of which are still in build or on the drawing board). Cheers, Jonny
  5. Tony, Model Dockyard do a ABS plastic or Fibreglass hull and plan "combo" on a number of designs - for example: Tyne Class Lifeboat @ 1:19 scale (787mm in length) and (HULMM1390) plans (possibly a general arrangement or construction drawing?!?) (MM1390) for £38.71 + VAT (total cost £46.45). Apart from Deans Marine and Fleetscale, that seems to be the only place I can think of at the moment that sell the hull and plans "combo" together. Cheers, Jonny
  6. John, You could build half the drydock to show the hull details on one side. For example, if you know you'll be showing the model (in your chosen place) with the port side of the hull to the wall (as you look at it, the bow is facing to the right hand side/corner of the room), then build only the port half of the drydock. My Sherbourne was built in this fashion. Or if you wanted to build the whole thing, consider placing viewing ports in the "blockwork" of the drydock. You could use small sheets of perspex to fill the opening you've made in the drydock wall to show the intricate details you would like to show off, and hide those that you don't. Just a note, after finishing my commission, and Longboat and Pinnace builds, I'll be building the Shipyard HMS Wolf paper model in 1:96, and will build her on a slipway. Cheers, Jonny
  7. Hi John, I had thought about building Victory in Drydock No. 2 also, my issue is space once she's finished. Seeing as Victory is a First Rate ship, I would imagine the drydock in question wouldn't be much bigger than the extreme lengths of the First Rate ships from the 1500's through to the late 1800's. I found this website after doing a quick google search on Drydock No. 2, and the length is 253' 4" and a width of 89' 2". http://portsmouthdockyard.org.uk/Page%2017.html I'd make the assumption that during the First World War, Drydock No. 2 was in constant use, so wouldn't have been altered in any way prior to the Victory being moved in to the drydock in 1922. Cheers, Jonny
  8. I chose Convulsion based purely on price and size, and I was surprised with Sherbourne by my girlfriend on our anniversary. I had the same thoughts on Convulsion, but I decided to just go for it and worry about the masting/rigging when I got to it! Of the two, I found Sherbourne to be the more enjoyable build, but that maybe due to the experience I gained from Convulsion?! If you've got the skills, tools, and willpower, and certainly build your own frame. I don't have the room to scratch build a frame like that, so I built a very rudimentary one that really got in the way, but that was due to my design flaws really. Cornwall Model Boats is a great online resource for materials and tools. Model Dockyard are very helpful too, but if you decide to build using Basswood, then Hobbycraft are substantially cheaper for good quality basswood than the online sources. If you're going to paint the model in anyway, then Tamyia paints are good, but Admiralty Paints offer the proper Red Ochre, Yellow Ochre, and Black pigment paints used by the Royal Navy in this period of history. A good book to reference is "Super Detailing of the Cutter Sherbourne" - I used this in conjunction with the build instructions, and build logs on here to build as much detail in to the model as I could. http://www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/assorted-publishers.html Most importantly, have fun, and enjoy this new hobby. You'll find it will frustrate you, it will challenge you, but it will always give you endless pleasure. Cheers, Jonny
  9. Amy, I've built Sherbourne and Convulsion from Caldercraft, and they're great beginner kits. I'd suggest buying the "Fair-a-Frame" from Model Expo as it is pivotal to get a straight false keel and bulkheads to make planking easier. Read around online for planking techniques (youtube is an excellent resource too), and don't be afraid to make mistakes on the first layer of planking. Another thing to watch out for is the quality of the 0.5 THK walnut supplied with the kit, it wasn't the best in either of my kits, and had serious discolouration on a majority of the strips. If you feel brave enough, consider buying other species of wood to plank the hull. Cheers Jonny
  10. I have used this technique to paint the figures for my latest build, the Italeri MTB 74 (scale 1:35), and am happy to say that it works wonders. The Citadel washes (such as Nuln Oil) are water based, so can be watered down to cater for a lighter wash on the faces and hand. Thanks Chris for posting this. Cheers, Jonny
  11. Felelo, I am building the Italeri MTB 74 kit as a waterline model. I had previous built up a base for an Airfix HMS Victory build that I binned off because it was completely terrible (I have no idea how a child/teenager is meant to build that kit, let alone an adult, without serious kit bashing). Anyway, I built up the base using six main "ingredients", an A2 sized artists field sketching board, 3 or 4 kilos of cheap porridge oats, two large bottles of thin CA glue, an A2 sized picture mounting card, auto-filler, and dry-clear caulking. Firstly, I drew the outline of the subject on to the artist board (10mm thick), and cut out 4 no. off 75mm thick strips of the mounting card to build up a frame. The card was PVA glued and nailed to artist board, making sure it was straight. Make sure you run a seam of PVA along the joint between the board and card. I reinforced the corners with some more of the mounting board. The joins were left under compression (clothes pegs work really well here) for about 6 hours. After the corners are dry, and most of the PVA beading is dry, wrap the hull of the model in clingfilm (or a plastic bag), when you have done this pour in all of the porridge oats. This will give you an easy wave making medium. Once happy with the "lay" of your waves, working in straight lines up and down the board, start applying the CA glue to the oats and stop about 25mm from the hull. The CA glue will soak through the oats and secure the bottom most layers of oats and stop any slips as you remove the hull. Remove the hull (keeping the clingfilm on the hull). Cover the rest of the base in the CA glue. Leave this overnight to really soak in. Next, you want to get a thin coat of auto-filler or DIY filler on top of your oats to give you a smoother water effect. Use an artists palette knife, it works wonders as you can flick the filler around a bit to make the water texture. Once happy, leave to dry overnight. Once dry, spray paint an "Ocean Blue" colour and once dry highlight with specks of white paint to add wave crests. Again, leave to dry. Cut the mounting board to match the profiles of the waves, and paint black. The last part for base is to add detailed "shimmery" waves with the dry-caulking. Applied in ta similar fashion to the filler with the palette knife, it looks especially good off the wave crests. Now, with my base I had built in accordance to the Victory hull, and seeing as this kit was too much trouble to continue with, I had to modify the base to fit the Motor Torpedo Boat hull. Seeing at the hull was double the size of Victory (Scale 1:180), I had to cut out some of the base. Bearing in mind that this is filler, and super-glued porridge oats, it's not the easiest thing to start butchering, but does come apart fairly cleanly. So now how did I modify this gaping hole to fit a new hull?! I used expanding foam, and a boat load of it. With the hull wrapped in more clingfilm, fill the cavity in the board with the expanding construction foam (do this outside as it is toxic to ingest - don't want pets or children accidentally doing that), making sure you have more at the stern than the bow as you want to have a huge bow wave on this bad boy!!! Simply weight the model down in whatever position it will be in, and leave until the foam has dried. With the hull weighted down, the foam will seep out of gaps between the hull and base, and create "white water" as the boat is going through the waves. These photos are of my display/diorama of MTB 74 en-route to the St. Nazaire Raid 28th March 1942. The expanding foam dries solid, but is still soft enough inside to be cut with a sharp knife to add more texture to it. It is also safe to paint. I hope this helps, and if you go down this route, feel free to PM me with any questions. Cheers, Jonny
  12. Izzy, Thanks for the kind words about my display - I'm not one for leaving the model on a plain stand. I think it's because ships of this period are three-dimensional, and I think it would do a model justice to show it in an every day position, but that is just my opinion. My figures are nowhere near museum quality, and had a "slap-dash" paint job, but I had get it to a point where it could be left before we got our puppy last August. I've got some weathering and tidying up to on Sherbourne still, it's been on hold recently with work, Christmas, New years, work and a Airfix HMS Victory build. Cheers, Jonny
  13. Hi All, I'm looking for meaningful and accurate plans (or a table of offsets) for the Westerly 33 or Westerly Discus (both are variations of the same yacht) to build a half hull or a full model of the yacht for my Grandfathers' 80th Birthday next January. He is also selling the yacht at the moment (due to ill health), so this will have to be perfect. The yacht was designed by Laurent Giles (Jr. I think), in the early-mid 1970's, but the plans are not available for purchase on his website, the closest iteration is the GK33 (a Half Tonner) which has a much finer entry in the bow and stern. Internet searches to date have proven fruitless, and I have not heard back from LG themselves since posing the question to them. The only image I have been able to find in regards to the design is the original Press Release brochure, which is, frankly, a crude representation of the yacht. Without direct access to the yacht in question, I can't measure up the boat, and the only dimensions I have been able to obtain are the LOA: 10.33m, LWL: 8.66m, Beam: 3.40m, and the Draught: 1.55m. This is the only "technical" drawing I can find of the yacht: As you can imagine, there is enough to get started on, but still leaves a lot to the imagination. If any one has any information of the Bilge Keel Sloop Discus or has any plans for the yacht that may not be readily available online, please send me a PM, or leave a comment below. I look forward to any feedback. Cheers, Jon
  14. Here is useful link defining the legal types of "Social Enterprise" organisations. http://www.resourcecentre.org.uk/information/legal-structures-for-not-for-profit-organisations/ An Unincorporated Association would be the easiest and fastest way to set up a Non-Profit group here in the UK. I would suggest the best way to get the ball rolling is speak with a member of the Citizen Advice Bureau for assistance in setting up the Association/Guild/Society. Jonny