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  1. I have just found your original email and replied, I need my eyesight checked again! I shall get the camera out by the end of the week Cheers Paul
  2. Good to see you back in the shipyard, I've still to get back into it yet. That deck is looking nice and smooth. The only thing I can think of for the eyebolt is using some gap-filling CA or some two-part epoxy. Or maybe fill the holes with a sawdust/PVA mix and redrill with a smaller drill. I have found that I have had to buy smaller drillbits than I thought existed! PS did you email me yet as nothing has come through? Cheers Paul
  3. Hope you get well soon, Mark, at least you got your vacation in first! Thanks for the kind words, I'm pretty chuffed with how she looks so far. I can't wait to get her finished. If you need any clarification or close ups on what I've done just let me know. Hope we both get back to building soon! Cheers Paul
  4. At last I can bring this log up to date. After the distraction of starting the stand build, I returned to the boat. First up was rigging the lines on the topsail. And then attaching the topsail to the topmast. I decided that the system I used to attach the fore and main sails to the masts wouldn’t look right, the beads would look too out of scale. So I used some large “jump rings”, again from the Admirals kitbox. I’m still not convinced as to whether I should change the rings for beads on the topsail or make larger rings and change the beads on the fore and main sails. The rationale at the moment is that as “new” technologies and practices came along that they may well have been incorporated piece-meal onto boats until they became “normal” practice. Unfortunately I had already rigged the required blocks onto the main mast so the shrouds had to be rigged directly onto the mast. Rigging the first shroud; Rigging the spliced shroud: So that was all that I could do off the boat. The next thing I needed to do was work out where to fix the “boom stop ring” to the mast. And because I was eager to get an idea of how the boat would look I dryfitted the main and top mast: But that’s where work has stopped, having spent the last two weeks in bed with flu. I’m hoping to get the tabletop shipyard up and running sometime next week. The first job will be to glue the aforementioned stop ring and start in rigging the shrouds/deadeyes/lanyards. Thanks for looking and happy building.
  5. nikbud

    Color of ratlines

    This is probably too late to help the OP but it may help others. I took some pictures of the Phoenix in Charlestown, Cornwall ,UK, a couple of years ago. The Phoenix is a working two masted brig built in Frederikshavn, Denmark in 1929, and regularly appears in tv shows and films. The following pics clearly show that the ratlines are "tan" and not tarred. However the last pic shows that the knots on the outer shrouds are tarred, either as a result of the shrouds being freshly tarred or as a way of "securing" the knot.
  6. I think Peter's solution is the better one, and much simpler! I'd remove as little as possible at first and take more and more away as needed. Good luck!
  7. Mark, Thanks, it certainly helps to have an obsessive personality! This is the penultimate update before I get to where I am now, the race is on to see whether I can update this log quicker than I can finish the boat! The mainmast, topmast, gaff and boom had all previously been turned on the makeshift lathe. The mainmast was rigged with blocks for the peak halyard, throat halyard and boom topping lift, and the topmast “foot” was glued in place. The topmast was rigged with a block for the topsail uphaul. The gaff was rigged with blocks for the peak halyard, throat halyard, vangs, brails and an extra block on the underside of the saddle for the topsail outhaul. A hole was also drilled at the end of the gaff for the topsail outhaul to pass through. The boom was rigged with a block for the preventer stay. I didn’t follow the plans but searched the web for what I thought may be appropriate, it will mean making a horse for the inner transom; (I think that this may be more appropriate on a much smaller boat, but it gave me something extra to make without using too many blocks which I was quickly running out of - several of the blocks had broken early on in the build when I was rigging the Carronade, a result of hamfisted drilling!) The boom was also rigged with the topping lift lines. A hole was drilled in the end for the mainsail outhaul to pass through and then I made some eyebolts and positioned them off-centre on the underside to pass by the preventer block. I also drew a plan for the rigging on the pin rail around the mainmast. The mainsail was attached to the gaff with simplified robands just as I did for the foremast. Brails and reef points were then added. As I said with the foresail, I wish I had made a reef band rather than the diamond reinforcements, but I didn’t want the mainsail to look different to the foresail. At this point the rigging was “doing my fruit in”, so for a change I decided to make a display stand. Many thanks to SardonicMeow for the idea! The port side completed; And they are all at 45 degrees! I am proud of myself haha; Happy Building!
  8. Thanks for the comments Wallace. I just checked the data on my photos and confirmed to myself that just the outer planking took 2 months of work. I was determined not to glue anything in place until I was perfectly happy with the fit and look. I was constantly re-measuring, sanding and dry-fitting, as I said I averaged about a plank an hour.
  9. If I understand you correctly the port bulwark is further from the centreline (running from bow to stern) than the starboard bulwark. If this is the case then I'm afraid if it was me I would strip it down and redo it, otherwise you may end up with a hull that looks "banana" shaped. One thing I've learn't throughout all my modelling is that the human eye really focuses on something that is even slightly off, especially if you know its there. The other option I can think of is to line the inside of the bulwark until the interior of the port side mirrors the starboard side in dimension and curve. Then sand down the outside until you have the same thickness and curve on both sides. How strong the result would be would depend on the glue and how far forward you have to work. Sanding the inside of the bulwark to profile isn't going to be easy either and may well trash the deck. Good luck!
  10. Rigging the deadeye lanyards started well. I was worried about keeping the deadeyes from rotating whilst they were being rigged, but I found that once rigged with tension they stayed with the single hole at the top. I was conscious of keeping good tension in the shrouds to avoid any slackness after the running rigging had been applied and all went well until the fourth deadeye. My poor choice of chainplate became evident when the soft wire stretched…. I had to cut the edging from the channel to replace the chainplate.. The completed fix… (You can see in these photos that I added a couple of knees to the pin rails made earlier) I am not completely happy with the result of the fix, and that the aft upper deadeye is higher because I didn’t want to apply too much tension and cause the same problem. I think at some point I will either use some stiff brass wire, or some aftermarket chainplates and replace the whole lot. For now I’m going to leave it as it is. All of the standing rigging was turned in a figure of eight around the belaying pins, twice, with a dab of aliphatic glue applied around the back of the top of the pin. I had wanted to continue to make the coil without having to cut the line and make the coil off the boat, and I managed to do this for the foremost coil on the starboard side. However it was such a faff that I realised that I would have to make the rest off the boat. I made this jig to do that… However, obviously, I can only make one at a time, and I found that the top of the loop was too wide. So after a few attempts I came up with the following jig… The jig consists of two removable vertical pins (cocktail sticks) the short pin (SP) at the back and the long pin(LP) at the front, a glued horizontal pin (HP) made from 2mm dowel, and a dressmakers pin (DP) The DP is clamped horizontally against the two vertical pins, one end of the line is clamped at the back of the jig. The line is then pulled forward around the LP and back towards the SP. Before the line reaches the SP the line is held by one finger and then wound around the DP and the HP four or five times and then through a hole in the base and taped securely. I then put a dab of aliphatic glue in the top of the coils and remove the DP. Keeping tension on the loop around the LP, I remove the LP, and place the loop over the SP touching the dab of glue. I then pull the clamped end of the line to close the loop around the SP. The top of the coil is then soaked in 50/50 PVA and left to dry. By only gluing the top of the coil I found that the lower half of the coil looks more natural. As with most things its all a lot easier to do that to explain! The production line… How they look on the boat….. Remember how I said that I’d made the forestaysail to big? Yup I made the same mistake with the foresail aswell. So I have had to simplify the rigging of the clew? to the horse. So that’s the bow pretty much completed, now to do it all again for the mainmast….. Cheers, Paul.
  11. Hi! and welcome to the Virginia Build Club! Don't worry about having a day off, just don't take too many... before you know it you'll be on your third year of the build like me...... What glue are you using for the second planking? I used CA for the whole length, but I think the consensus would be to use CA for "strategic" points only - bow, midpoint and stern, with woodworking glue for the rest. The most important part I think is getting the planks to bend/curve to the hull so that little clamping is needed. Good luck!
  12. Once the foremast was glued on I started on the Forestay and the stay for the jib sail. The loop on the stays that went over the foremast was made off the boat; The stays were the attached to the foremast and rigged to the bowsprit, using clamps and heamostats to keep everything taught. Sorry, but no pics of this but it was the same system I used for the shrouds which I’ll come to later. Once the stays were rigged, the forestaysail/jib was attached, and that’s when the salty language occurred. Somehow in making the sail I had made it too big, this meant that there was no room for the block at the head of the sail. So instead of the uphaul halyard routing from the block on the mast, through the block on the sail, back through the mast block and down to the belaying pin; the line now routes from the mast block, through the loop formed with the boltrope at the head of the sail and then through the mast block. It was either that or remake the sail. I didn’t include a downhaul from the head, just from the tack. Instead of using the oversized rings supplied In the kit I decided to attach the sail to the stay with, as Zu Mondfeld put it; “lacing with running rope” Next came the shrouds for the foremast. The two foremost shrouds were made from one line for each side, made off the boat as I did for the forestays. The aft shroud was made from one line from port to starboard with an eye spliced in the centre; As many build logs on here have shown, I made a little jig from scrap wood to hold the deadeyes as they were rigged to the shrouds. Small pins were inserted through the lower deadeyes and the holes in the bottom of the jig, and the shrouds rigged with the aid of various clamps. As with all my rigging I have used the “loop and wrapping” method. I have found it’s much neater if I wrap towards the loop and keep the wrapping end taut as I pass it through the loop, I keep the wrapping end taut until the loop is closed up to the wrapping and then release the wrapping end. If I put my thumb and forefinger over the wrapping I can feel the loop being pulled under the wrapping. I stop before the loop is pulled completely through and then cover the wrapping in 50/50 PVA. Only when it is dry I cut the loose ends. Next up the lanyards, and more swearing…. Cheers Paul
  13. With the exception of the pump and the carronade shot, the deck fittings were now complete. The masts, gaffs, sails and rigging them all together came next…. I decided to do as much as possible off the boat, only glueing the masts in place once I was sure I had completed everything. As a picture is worth a thousand words, here is the completed foremast; The blocks were rigged on the mast and gaff first. The throat halyard block on the gaff was rigged to a piece of wire with an eyebolt on the end - the same as used for the deadeyes and chainplates - this wire went through the saddle and the triple brail block was rigged to an eyebolt formed on the other end of the wire. The Vangs were made from thin line served and spliced around the gaff - as you can see somehow my measurements were way of and one side is longer than the other. Maybe I should have spliced the line to the gaff and then rigged the blocks on… The black bands on the saddle were made from the trusted heat shrink. The sail was attached to the mast and then attached to the gaff with simplified robands. It was very fiddly but I think it looks pretty ok. The brails were added by simply threading through the sail next to the boltrope, around the boltrope and back through the same hole and then through the blocks. A closeup before the brails had been added; Reef points were made by tying a knot in the thread, threading it through the sail and tying a knot on the other side. the points were the soaked on 50/50 PVA and when dry cut to length. I should have made a reef band but instead opted for diamond shaped reinforcements glued to the back of the sail. In hindsight a reef band would have looked better…. The foremast was glued into the deck ready for the stays and jib sail, and that’s when I started swearing……
  14. So next up was the carronade to deck rigging. I had put off doing this as I was unsure how to do it and make it look neat and tidy - I didn’t like the idea of the messy coils shown in the instructions. I did have a jig for making coils that I had used earlier, but using it meant that I would have had to make the coils off the boat and hidden the join somehow - I wanted one continuous line. I toyed with several ideas, even thinking of leaving the rigging off but making a couple of lockers to store the rigging. Unfortunately the deck was going to be crowded enough anyway and I would need some way of holding the carronade so it wouldn’t move under heavy seas - my experience with trying to make brass latches to hold the anchors showed my skills weren’t up to any metalwork required. Whilst looking for ideas I came across a way of making my own eyebolts. I used brass picture hanging wire; After trying various ways to make coils I came up with a simple jig, so simple I made four; Essentially each jig is a short piece of dowel, slightly wider that the size of the coil, with a piece of acetate CA’d on top with a hole drilled in the centre into which a piece of brass rod fits. The line is rigged from the eyebolt on the carronade, through the block, back to the eyebolt and tied. The line that is then left is soaked in 50/50 PVA and the end poked into the hole in the jig. The brass rod is inserted into the hole to hold the line in place, another piece of acetate is placed over the top and then the brass rod is slowly twirled making the coil. I did a couple of dummy runs to work out the required length of line. (The clamps seen above are holding the rail/stanchions back on after I was a bit hamfisted and broke them) When dry the coils were glued to the deck and all the lines were soaked with 50/50 PVA and with a wet brush poked and prodded to get them to look like they had some weight. I am pleased with how tidy it looks. Cheers! Paul
  15. Nicely done! Is she going in a display case? The stand really suits her. What is the next build?

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