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  1. I used an iron on my virginia build. It bent the mahogany strips a treat. It took a bit of practice but I found I could edge bend and side bend pretty accurately;
  2. Its interesting you say that you have a separate container, Mark. One of my problems is that if I keep tools separate I have a tendency to plow on using the tools in front of me rather than finding the correct tool that's in the container that's in the drawer that's in the cupboard. Its part of my tendency to rush things and one of the reasons I get everything out when I open the shipyard. I need to find a jar with patience in it, it would need to be self and fast refilling tho!😁
  3. I like the solid and purposeful look of the channels. The decking pattern is very impressive, both the deck and channels give an insight into how these ships were built - with craftsmanship, but using what is available where necessary. Good work, you have given me much to think about!
  4. Oliver, you need to wrap another line around the block that is attached to the mast, just like you have done already. The other end of this new line goes down, through the block attached to the yard, back up, through the block attached to the mast, and then down to the belaying pin. Hope that helped.
  5. That's exactly what I was failing miserably at doing Mark!😢 To be fair I was trying to be too clever, too "in scale"; I was using 1mm lengths of 39 gauge wire (0.09mm), I couldn't even see it without my glasses and magnifying glass!! I have some thicker gauge wire but I need to get some metal blackener first, stuff that will work on brass and kanthal/steel. When I have found my patience, (it might wander home tomorrow afternoon) I will try with a thicker wire and paint and next time I will put my magnifyers on!
  6. You want hinges? I want sails.....😁😁
  7. I think that, especially with the bigger ships (tonnage not scale size) with a lot of rigging, a model without sails adds to that "museum quality", busy, look. If sails are added they pretty much have to be perfect otherwise they detract and distract from the rest of the model. Having said that I do like the look of a full set of billowing sails, it can give the ship a sense of movement and purpose. Damn, this fence is uncomfortable...…….
  8. I think I said somewhere on another thread that I was in awe of my late grandfather, a carpenter, who could make a window in a couple of days. “Well, Grandad, whaddaya know? So can I!”……. When I opened up the shipyard this afternoon I found this I have decided to become a fully paid up member of the ‘Bob Ross School Of Theory And Everything’; So this is not a mistake, but a happy accident! I had thought of having the bulkhead curve but I couldn’t work out how to achieve it. I don’t know if this will be visible once the boat is all built up but I’m not going to worry about it. The window….. I taped a piece of squared paper to a piece of clear plastic. I used a piece from a stamp album insert and also tried a thicker piece from some old retail packaging. I loaded up my lining pen with Boltgun Metal from Citadel, I think it gives a good representation of lead. Using a ruler I drew over the lines. Once I got the paint consistency and the pen angle right I managed this on my fourth attempt. While it was drying I glued in the windowsills and the uprights; I made a template of the window opening and cut out the correct shape from the plastic sheet I glued the window to the back of the upright using aliphatic glue.I cut some thin strips of the light walnut and placed them to represent the window frame. I will only do the framing on the port side of the port window and the starboard side of the starboard window, my sanity was stretched to the limit doing one, I can manage to do another one but not another three! The stern windows will be a little bigger so they should be a bit easier……. The window isn’t as neat as those produced by Peter, but as a first attempt I am quite happy with it. The bulkhead windows will be partially obscured by the rigging, staircases, columns and other deck paraphernalia. Hopefully with the stern windows being bigger and that I’ll have had more practice by then, the stern windows should be much neater! Thanks for looking guys and as always all comments, ideas and criticism welcome. Just don’t ask about hinges on the window, I tried hinges, hinges don't like me, I failed at hinges, there will be no hinges.
  9. Thanks for your comments, guys. The plan at the moment is to use Danish oil, but I haven't really given it a lot of thought. I used Danish oil on the Virginia and while I liked the effect on the darker wood, it made the lighter wood a bit too yellow. I am going to have to do some testing to see the effect on the maple and cherry. Mark do you mean each end of the bulkhead? I have given this a lot of thought..... The b/h will butt up to the wall like so; (pics looking down in plan view) At the moment I have three options first - cutting about 2mm of the edge of the planking and using a 3mm square frame to cover the join, this I can extend upwards to form a stanchion for the upper deck rail, second - instead of the 3mm frame just use a thin piece to represent the frame, just as I did in the cabin (dotted line). I wont be able to continue this upwards tho. Third option is to use the planking to cover the join between the b/h and the wall; I think option 3 is the more likely one used in "real life", but I REALLY like the idea of option 1...…. Luckily I don't have to decide just yet 😁
  10. Hi everyone, time for an update; As has become the norm with this build there is a little bit of building preceded by a lot of thinking coupled with a few changes of mind…… So, after I finished the cabin furniture the next job was to plank the inner cabin walls, but I needed to cut out the windows first. I have been inspired by the windows in Peter’s (Katsumoto) Santa Maria 1492 build so I spent some time thinking of what I wanted, and what I could achieve. I eventually decided on a flattened arch window. I found an image on the web, resized it on the computer and printed it out; I made different templates out of card to see which would fit the best, and stuck with my first choice; I used my dremel to roughly cut out the windows in the side walls and the window and door openings in the aftercastle entrance bulkhead and cleaned the openings up with needles files and sanding sticks At this point the intention was plank the inner walls and windows/door frames out of the same mahogany I had used making the furniture, thus giving some continuity from inside to outside. I wasn’t looking forward to using the mahogany as it was brittle and splintery, but whilst chatting to Mark he suggested using something like ebony or teak. Unfortunately I couldn’t source either in the limited size and quantity I needed. It looked like I was stuck with the mahogany. The problem I had was that I wanted a contrast with the planking but couldn’t use walnut as that was representing the “wizardwood” hull planking and the upper planking was going to be dibetou, so I couldn’t use that. It wasn’t until later that day that I remembered a sheet of 1mm walnut that I had that was a lot lighter than the walnut planking that I had. The plan now - and I’m sticking to it! - is Maple - deck Cherry - forecastle and aftercastle bulkhead planking Dibetou - upper hull planking Walnut - lower hull planking, frames, rails light walnut sheet - doors windows I decided that I wanted to show the upper deck beams in the cabin, so I thought I would show at least the face of the frames in the cabin. I will add the shoulders and deck beams when I get to the upper deck (should be about February………2021!) To do this I sanded some 1.5mm planking down to about .5mm To show the frames I decided to plank the interior wall of the cabin in cherry Next job was to bend a strip of the light walnut to make the arch of the window frames. It was soaked for about 5 mins, clamped to a jar and heated with a heat gun After much thought I decided to build the door/window frames on the aftercastle bulkhead before planking, I found that the cherry could chip when I planked the walls first and then cut out the window. It would mean more work when planking but I thought I would get a neater result, and more work means more fun ! The frames were made deeper than the depth of the bulkhead so that after planking I could sand it all level. Here the side and arch frames are glued in but the bottom frame on each is left unglued. This is so that after planking I can remove them, sand the other frames flush with the planking and the replace the bottom frames giving a “windowsill” look Using a sticky tape template for the next plank; And after sanding Hopefully I can get the bulkhead finished in the next week or two. Then it'll be the side windows. At some point I need to finish the decoration for the cabin - mirror, pictures etc. The aftercastle, its sides and the bulkhead need gluing together and then attaching to the hull, and then I need to start on the forcastle bulkhead. All that should see me through to the summer! Thanks for looking!
  11. Just noticed your log, hope you don't mind if I pull up a chair and follow, i'll sit quietly at the back.
  12. I like the look of this ship, so i'll pull up a chair and follow your progress, good stuff so far
  13. Its the best part of the build Sir!😁 Enjoy it while it lasts, you'll be rigging before you know it😂

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