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michael mott

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About michael mott

  • Birthday 04/06/1948

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    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

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  1. Beautiful workmanship on the lee boards and the rudder Kortes. Michael
  2. Oh if only you knew about my Music 8% and English Lit 33% English Grammar 30% I did make it as a back up for the back up for the soccer team once. and it is good that we have the game of scrabble which helped wiv spellin. Thanks so much for the compliment though. Michael
  3. Javier and Eberhard, thank you for the clarification. Javier your comment made me smile. Michael
  4. I have to agree with Rob on his observation. Michael
  5. Javier in this photograph of your eyebolts they appear to be made of two pieces a flat part with a rounded part wrapped around them. can you clarify this for me. Thank you. Michael
  6. Hi Druxey, I thing that because the shape is not to difficult and the fact that the shim stock was only .008" might be the reason. Now I am wondering about thin copper stock and who supplies it. I have lots of it in the 16g and up size but not much saller other than the wire I ran through the rollers to form small strip. Eberhard The only drawback to the cell-cast that I encountered when i was building Architectural Models for a living was the variation in the thickness of the cast material. We got into the habit of sorting the cut 8'x4' sheets into thick and thin 1/8th or 1/4 and 1/16. The 1/16 came in smaller sheets, once this was done it helped with the assembles when cutting multiple parts because the parts would be more consistent. Michael
  7. Thank you Javier for the information. Michael
  8. Eberhard the formers would be challenging with small tools I was able to use the large mill drill to form the basic block which was then cut in half. I have been using brass but I keep thinking about the metalwork done by Ed Tosti with copper. I have done a fair bit of forming thicker copper for Model steam boilers but had not thought about using thinner material for this sort of application. Copper being very pure and extremely malleable would likely be easier to form. I suppose you could make a master in solid plexiglass (I prefer the cell-cast type because it machines beautifully, which the extruded does not) somewhat along the style of the half of a sand mould. then make a cast of that with some JB weld as the form in which to form the sheet metal. I have used this method and it does work for a limited number of parts. A little less toxic than the etching process perhaps. Michael
  9. Jdulaney, thanks for the link, to that specific part of Eberhard's website. I am familiar with his website but I have not visited all the areas I have mostly concentrated on the tooling and watchmaking parts. Eberhard Tell me you are using some eyesight magnification, because you are working at the Swiss watch level of modelwork! Most impressive Sir. Michael
  10. michael mott

    IMG_9969.JPG

    Very nice!
  11. Eberhard, I just caught up with this work. The ventilators are a work of art, beautifully executed. I also like the soldering pins and the plex work. Michael
  12. Thanks for all the likes and visits. I finished forming the 3 other dorade vents today. The forming required 4 annealings time for an afternoon nap with the kitties. michael
  13. Javier she is looking beautiful. I have a question, are you using copper or brass or something else for the tiny metal parts? Michael
  14. Interesting you should say that, I have been looking for more information, than is in John's book about specific aspects of rigging. Vaddoc nice work on the jaws and a sweet gift for your daughter. Michael
  15. another short update today I made a small 8 inch cleat to fix the topmast forestay. A piece of 1/8 inch brass strip that was 1 inch wide was drilled for the mounting holes in the mill then the bottom was shaped while still attached to the strip. I made it the same way as this earlier one. The new one slightly different obviously acquired from a different manufacturer. the screw were turned out of some of the home depot 3/16 brass rod it is free machining and I like to use the 3/16 because I can turn down to the final diameter in one pass because the work is supported as reduce the diameter. I ground the parting tool to the angle of the countersink. in order to cut the head. they are 0x80 threads again the slot was cut with the jewelers saw. It is a lot of fun making these small bits and pieces. Michael

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