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    Staffordshire - England

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  1. CA glues

    I always buy the large bottles of Loctite and my preferred is Loctite's Prism 406. I do similar to others here and dispense some onto a tile and apply with a cocktail stick. A sharp tap on the bottle to make sure none is left in the nozzle and replace the top. in between use I put in the fridge. It is very rare that I do not get to use the whole bottle as keeping in the fridge stops it going thick.
  2. This is what I am using: http://datalocation.co.uk/data/CTM4001.pdf
  3. I added the side pieces shown below to mine. Just helps keep everything in line when sliding along between fixing bulkheads.
  4. possible trip to Portsmouth

    I have visited both in 2017 and 2016 and the trips were not guided but will be worth ringing and checking as they tend to make it guided when busy. Both times we went the Warrior was not able to visit, last year due to staff issues. I can usually get the Victory, Mary Rose and Naval museum in one long day. I think if you buy the full annual you can go back as many times as you like over the twelve months period. Means another trip but if you stay in Portsmouth the marines museum, and other sites are worth a visit.
  5. The ring that the breech rope passes through prevents the rear trucks from inadvertently running over the breech rope during recoil. if this happened it would overset. Having the rope though it in this manner would stop it dropping slack between the button and the ring but like others have said, full force would be applied to this ring as the breech was fetched up tight. To reduce the force on this ring the breech ring in the bulwarks would have to be fixed above the front trucks, this would allow more force to pass through too the button of the cannon. The carronade, as shown in the constitution, was mounted on a slide so did not have the issue of the breech getting trapped under the trucks and as such did not need the ring. The real problem here is that the tackle is both outside and lower than the breech rope. Great for traversing the piece but if just wanting to run it out most of the effort would be used against the other tackle and forcing the cannon trucks into the deck. It also looks that the bulwark fixings go into a belaying pin rack instead of through the planking and into one of the beams. Also, remember you are probably going to want to remove the tackles before firing as you will only need the breech rope when the tackle bolts fail or rope snaps if you leave it in place.
  6. If you look at pictures of HMS Victory's decks you will see that the trenails are lighter than the planks and hardly noticeable. Of course you would be better looking at her Orlop deck as the upper decks are not original and you would probably find that they are in fact plugs, inserted into counterbored holes and covering the fixing screws. With a plug used in the modern way for fitting boarding the grain would run the same way as the planking. A trenail would have its grain along its length. Consequently the end grain would be visible on its exposed end and result in a variation in colour. I am not sure if the same wood was used as the trenail would need to withstand being forced into place and so would have to have a close grain. I am not able, at present, to check any of my reference books to confirm this. If you can hardly see them at full scale then they would be even less noticeable at your model's scale.
  7. Snow, the Spanish were there as well. One book very worth looking out for is HMS Victory by Kenneth Fenwick. not just about the battle of Trafalgar but a history of all the ships called Victory. Trafalgar - eye witness accounts - Tom Pocock Trafalgar - Alan Schom Nelson - Christopher Hibbert the list could be endless.
  8. In what stage of her life are you wanting to depict her? Paint schemes also varied for different periods. The picture looks more like an early period which is at odds with what looks like copper plating. If you want to have 'varnished' sides with a band of blue on the outer side of the bulwarks then the bottom of the hull (below the water line) would usually be white. If you want Nelson's period then the Yellow ochre band would be the width of the gun ports. Of course there was always variations and a lot is down to what you personally want.
  9. Jim, Is it a capacitor start or does it also use it for capacitor run? If only for start is it possible that it did not switch out and hence cause the overheat of both capacitor and motor. It doesn't appear that Janet was particularly overloading the motor.
  10. Suppose as I suggested it I need to list my kits. So at the risk at being called a collectomaniac here we go. Just the wooden ship kits in approximate order of acquisition: 1. Corel’s HMS Resolution – brought for me by my wife as a present. Not my first build as decided did not want to risk spoiling. Not historically accurate as listed as a cutter but more like a sloop. Not of a particular ship. Everything was excellent quality and really enjoyable build. 2. Sergal’s Racehorse – first build. This kit is not even slightly like the real Racehorse, their history is false, materials very poor. I did find some drawings depicting a generic early bomb vessel to match this but nothing in any other source. Mine is renamed HMS Thunder as this was the nearest plan I could get to match from approx. 80 years earlier. Chosen as a cheap model for practice before doing the above. 3. Jotika’s HMS Cruiser – chosen after tour of factory where you could view all the kits as built. Like Resolution chosen for subject – not yet built, planned next build. 4. Jotika’s Chatham – again chosen after visiting factory – third build – absolutely delightful little model and great materials- very close to NMM drawings. If they improved instructions would be perfect first model. Wife brought both of these as presents. 5. Slave ship Amistad – impulse buy off auction site -sold. 6. Arc Models - English Charles Stuart Yacht – want, and still want, a kit of this type but didn’t like this so sold on. 7. Jotika’s HMS Supply – 5th build – Present from my wife. Timber for deck quality poor so Jotika replaced. One of rear bulkheads too small, have noticed in other builds on here. A few discrepancies in drawings otherwise good. 8. Billing’s Dutch Staten Jacht – Brought off internet auction. This was a great and large kit but after waiting a long time to see if fittings came up I sold on. 9. Panart’s Royal Caroline – 6th Build. Another Ebay Buy but put away as a present. To improve accuracy remodelled keel and reshaped or replaced all the bulkheads and doubled the amount. Seems to be one scale in height and another in length. All materials good quality but changed second planking. 10. Revenge – cannot remember maker but had many plastic parts – sold on. 11. Jotika’s HMS Pickle – wife again – 4th build. Excellent instructions which made it more obvious with the couple of mistakes. Second planking was brittle (walnut) and would not hold its edge. Jotika said it should be kept with an open vessel of water nearby and shouldn’t leave it long before building kits. 12. SWM Models – Mevagissey Lugger – impulse buy as a place my wife and I spent so many good times when first together. Actually has fibreglass hull and wooden decks etc. 13. Jotika’s Granado – another present from the wife – direct from Jotika – yet to build. 14. Corel’s HMS Unicorn – started to plan the build but decided it would be a complete remodel so may as well do from scratch, there is little in this kit that is accurate. Sold. 15. Jotika’s HMS Bounty – Brought very, very cheap as no one placed a bid. As completed a very highly modified Airfix this has been shelved. 16. Jotika’s Mary Rose – off auction site for very good price but again put away as a present. 17. Artesania Latina’s Harvey – Brought in bulk buy at local Auction 18. Constructo’s Enterprise - Brought in bulk buy at local Auction 19. Constructo’s Halifax - Brought in bulk buy at local Auction – frames started. 20. Constructo’s Valachero - Brought in bulk buy at local Auction 21. Mediterranean fishing vessel ‘Eva’ - Brought in bulk buy at local Auction. All of these I eventually sold apart from Halifax as started. None of these I would particularly say were good as found wanting in either accuracy or fittings. 22. Victory model’s HMS Pegasus - probably most impressive all round kit here. 23. Victory Model’s Lady Nelson – present from Wife – lovely little kit for between big projects. 24. Lauck Street Shipyard – Fair American – 40th birthday present. 25. Model Shipwright’s HM Cutter Speedy – current build -tempted to start a log, very strange ‘kit’ timber quality excellent. 26. Jotika’s HMS Diana – present from wife. She didn’t realise the size! Had it delivered to work and asked member of staff to take to the office. Took two girls to carry it. 27. Billing’s Gothenburg – worst kit ever seen and absolutely terrible. Sold. 28. Mantua’s Dutch Naval Gunboat – ebay purchase – good drawings and materials but could be looking to sell this on. 29. Billing’s Mayflower – another auction purchase saved for a present – very interesting for construction methods but some of those plastic parts will have to go! 30. Mamoli’s Yacht Mary – another present, can’t believe this is not still in production. 31. Jotika’’s Brig William – Another present, this looks to be an excellent kit, not sure why not more popular. Reason I might be selling the Dutch Gun boat. 32. Panart’s Armed Pinnace, another reason for selling the Dutch gunboat, picked this up for under £20. 33. Euromodel Como’s Mordaunt – A present from my wife – great drawings, not enough bulkheads. 34. Constructo’s Cutty Sark – this was a rarer version of their kit and not the one I expected. Although easily put right the masts where truncated. Scale much larger than usual offering. I decide to sell. 35. Artesania Latina’s Rhoda Mary – Purchased as interested in vessel history. 36. Model Shipway’s 18th century longboat 37. Revell / Hegi Rattlesnake - a rare kit and will require some work on bulkheads but great drawings, rigging plans and materials. 38. Aeropiccola’s HMS Serapis – my most recent addition and yet to review but impressed with first observations especially for money paid. There you have it, only hope I get chance to complete them all. I do have some plastic ones to complete as well.
  11. Chuck, Would it be an interesting survey to get members to list kits they have owned and against each kit have the order they purchased, method of purchase i.e. new, ebay, present etc, if completed, given up on, sold on, and why purchased. This would give you reasons for purchase against experience. i.e. for me first kit was a present from my wife after taking advice from local, now gone, specialist model shop, it was the Corel Resolution. However, not first kit built as wanted to practice on a cheaper one which was the absolutely awful Sergal Racehorse. Caldercraft were relatively unheard of at this time but my third build was their Chatham. Then down the line I purchased other kits like the Corel Unicorn but decided to sell on due to the amount of work that would be required to make it historically correct. A complicated survey but you could see patterns forming. Incidentally, I have had 35 kits pass through my hands but have not done a log since the crash so log statistics are a false measure to some degree.
  12. Heller's Le GLorieux: Copper Sheathed Hull?

    Blue Ensign, I have just looked at your version of this build and it is nothing less than brilliant!
  13. Heller's Le GLorieux: Copper Sheathed Hull?

    Hi, there is only one sprue that is different between the two and that is the one with the name plate. Most Heller kits have at least one second kit that does this. The Phenix and Sirene are the same kit although very different when completed. Why not build it as in British service?
  14. Fly Tying Tools

    I often use the thread but not many of the tools. There are some great fine scissors like the 'Dr Slick' scissors and micro clamps but the biggest problem I find when rigging is reaching in to grab threads and holding thread close enough to a belaying pin to tie it off. For the first the following are useful: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Micro-Hartman-Alligator-Cup-Shape-Forceps-3-5-ENT-Surgical-Instruments-CE-/161329460991 For the second some blunt cuticle pushes / cutters. https://www.lightinthebox.com/cuticle-pusher-trimmer-remover-nail-manicure-tool_p233511.html?currency=GBP&litb_from=bing_shopping&utm_source=bingshopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=bingshopping&msclkid=b0f8d03935de1bee23f08a4184fc6767 Also have some crocheting hooks at hand. https://www.lovecrochet.com/knit-pro-steel-gold-tip-crochet-hook These come in a range of sizes and are handy lengthened by fitting into a long piece of dowel. Make sure you get the silk thread rather than nylon. Some say it shrinks but I have not had that problem, in fact more likely to go loose over time. I have had black turn to dark brown but only after many times when washed dust off the finished ship by using the electric shower!
  15. Rattlesnake Revisited

    In British service she was re-named Cormorant (1781) but later returned to be called Rattlesnake (1783). She was then sold to the French in 1786 and re-named again as Le Tonnant (see Corel or Soclaine kits).

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