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About glbarlow

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  1. Update to the above: I measured some left over planking I had for both the inner and outer layer. Both were 31.5" long. If yours was only 20" I'd definitely contact Amati.
  2. I didn't have that problem with either the first or second layer, that's quite surprising. My kit is also from Amati and both layers had plenty of both woods and planks at the needed length supplied with the kit. I'd start by contacting Amati. My kit was short starboard side copper plating for some reason. I contacted Amati and now have enough to also do another ship. It took them a while to respond, but they did by sending the copper in original packaging.
  3. Turns out I did do a bit of. A tutorial earlier in my Vanguard log, so long ago I had forgotten. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3329-hms-vanguard-by-glenn-amativictory-models-172/page-2#entry120343 Maybe it will help.
  4. Definitely planked and horizontal as shown in the photos above. Lesson for next model is to do that before running the side planks as they should overlap the stern pieces (as shown above). At this point you'll have to do the opposite of that, but its not that big a deal with sanding and once the hull is painted.
  5. Agree. I've build a lot of ships and bent a lot of planks. Water in a glass works just fine for me.
  6. Soaking the wood works for me, doesn't have to be hot boiling water or microwave - just soak in a glass of water.
  7. I've planked a lot of hulls, right now I'm working on the 4th ship's boat for the Vanguard model I'm building (link to my Vanguard build log in my signature line show's my work on those boats, its the most recent series of entries). In a lot of ways building a ships boat is harder than the hull because of the small size. I start with the top most plank and work my way down. However, the second plank I install is the garboard plank at the keel. You're always going to have some fill even with the most perfect planking job. You want that fill to be on the bottom where it won't be seen. However you need a neat garboard to get a good clear match to the keel. With the top plank (below the future cap rail) done and which should require splining and the bottom plank (garboard) done at the keel I start working top down. Splining and tapering to fit is not that difficult. Determine by counting how many planks it will take to fill top to bottom at the widest point, the waist of the ship. Measure the distance top to bottom at the bow between your top and bottom plank and divide by the total planks at the waist. Example if it will take 10 5mm planks at the waist to fill and your measurement is 5mm then the plank width at the bow needs to be 2mm. Its then just learning where to start the trim based on how it overlaps and use a standard Xacto knife and a metal ruler to do the trimming. Probably have to do the same thing at the stern. The comments about the trim and curve of the garboard above are correct, but I wouldn't stress much about that, its an easy trim and at the bottom of the boat not noticeable, especially after sanding and painting the final result. I'm sure somewhere on this forum is a more detailed explanation of planking (I had a detailed tutorial here once, but it was lost in the great site crash). But the basics of working top to bottom and trimming so that every plank full width at the waist reaches the bow at a smaller width is the way to go. The little fill that leaves at the bottom between the last full plank and the garboard won't ever be seen.
  8. FA 1816

    Thank you
  9. Fair American

    I built this ship with the goal of "painting with wood." There isn't a drop of paint on it. Woods used include Boxwood, Cherry, Ash, Pear, Walnut, Redheart, and Ebony. There once was a detailed build log here, but it was lost along with my detailed log on Pegasus when the site crashed several years ago