Jump to content

Yacht America by flyer - FINISHED - Mamoli - scale 1:66 - with some alterations


Recommended Posts

...and was Her Majesty amused? ^_^

 

Thanks JPAM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bobstay was now set up below the jib stay tackle. I used 0.5 black thread and set up a 0.25 natural thread tackle to a block on its own eyebolt on the bow.

The bowsprit shrouds were next. Unfortunately I found only 3 of the 4 needed cast thimbles in the kit. The good news were 4 wooden hearts in about the right size which I could localise in my 'leftovers drawer'. For the shrouds I used 0.75 black with 0.25 natural thread for the lanyards.

 

post-504-0-90717800-1481744879.jpg

bobstay and jib stay tackle

 

post-504-0-11449000-1481744877.jpg

wooden hearts for the bowsprit shrouds

 

In between the work on the bow the main topmast standing rigging was installed. The topmast stay was made of 0.5 black thread and set up as instructed by the kit. That rope triangle for the forward end seemed a bit strange was however the logical solution with the 'eyed rings' provided by the kit.

 

post-504-0-54103500-1481744879.jpg

fore mast head with schooner stay and main topmast stay

 

Generally, while working on the rigging, I was occasionally in a dilemma. According to the sources, the aim of the ship builder was to provide a relatively simple rig, taking a New York pilot schooner as a model. On the other hand some of the kit's proposals were rather complicated such as this stays forward end or the bobstay. I was looking for technically plausible solutions with the available material but as my clever books (Lees and others) mainly cover the period up to 1830 I was sometimes lost at sea.

Anyhow, that the main topmast has no shrouds seemed correct. However those prominent backstays definitely were incorrect and to leave them off, as other kits propose, I thought inappropriate. Either to leave the topmast  bare or to have supports forward and aft seemed more logical. I therefore balanced the topmast stay with a pair of backstays attached to the lower deadeye of the lower mast shrouds. This isn't an open contradiction to the contemporary paintings and is covered by Marquardt's book. The 0.5 black thread of the backstays was set up with wooden thimbles (from the 'leftovers drawer') and a 0.25 natural lanyard.

 

post-504-0-31845200-1481744878.jpg

topmast backstay lower end

 

Now the jib boom inner end was fixed. An additional bolt through the ears on the bowsprit betting and the rear end of the jib boom holds it.

 

post-504-0-13574100-1481744879.jpg

jib boom inner end

 

Installing the dolphin striker wasn't easy as I was unable to identify that part in the kit's box. After several tries I made one of  0,8mm brass wire. Of course the eye on the bowsprit broke when I installed it (one of those days) but could be replaced with an eyebolt. The martingale stay is 0.5 mm black thread and the two back ropes 0.25. I used some Amati 3mm blocks to set up the lanyard made of 0.1 mm natural thread. Finally the jib boom guys (not sure if that's the correct name) were set up with 0.25 natural thread. I decided against the use of 'tarred' rope as they are put directly to cleats.

 

post-504-0-56184900-1481744877.jpg

dolphin striker with martingale stay and back ropes

 

post-504-0-66999200-1481744876.jpg

standing rigging completed (except a few loose ends)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like the way you set up the topmast backstays - I followed the kit plans but I think yours look much better!

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you Hamilton.

 

The previously built Pickle and several clever books are a great help for me.

 

Cheers and a happy new year to all

peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

booms, anchors, boats

The booms were constructed as instructed by the kit. The only little addition were the iron (cartridge paper) hoops to hold the tongues of the gaff.

 

post-504-0-40173100-1483192369.jpg

boom and gaffs

 

post-504-0-96648900-1483192368.jpg

detail of the gaff

 

The anchors were installed as instructed by the kit. The anchor chain hanging over the bulwark and chafing on the lanyards of the bowsprit rigging seems a bit strange but I couldn't think of a better arrangement except just letting the anchor hang outboard below the hawse pipe. However there it would cause some drag which should be avoided in this racing machine. Another question was how the anchors were handled as no permanent gear is installed. Being comparatively small I guess they were manhandled with the help of some temporary tackles.

 

post-504-0-16471100-1483192370.jpg

anchors stowed

 

post-504-0-77219600-1483192369.jpg

the chain will probably chafe on the bowsprit rigging

 

I will install two boats as depicted for example in John Rousmaniere's book. I ordered 2 quaicraft model boats with a length of 83mm in scale 1/64. The raw boats show acceptable details and seem about right in size and style for America. However the first painted example looked too much like plastic. After dismantling again the small decks and the thwarts were made from wood and some details were added, such as a rudder, a water barrel, boathook and oars which are leftovers from other kits and a mast.

Now I have to find out how to attach the boats to my cast metal Amati davits and how to install all on America.

 

post-504-0-54290300-1483192368.jpg

raw and finished boat - in the background a mock up for the installation of davits and boats

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Peter,

 

Those ships boats look very good   :)

 

Nils

Edited by Mirabell61

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a big improvement on the boat, Peter.  The details of the boathook, barrel, & rope really do make nice touches.

 

Happy new year to you -- let's hope '17 improves on its predecessor (somehow, anyhow).

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Peter!

 

Happy New Year. The ship's boat looks great - have you decided how to add it? I haven't seen any images that might act as guidance but if I come across any I'll send them your way....

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you Nils.

 

Martin, it should improve. There were some rumours that at least you will very soon live in a great country (again)!? (This baffles me a bit as I always found it to be a great country - with room for some improvements, but great anyway).

 

Hamilton, thanks. Yes, the boats will be hanging from iron davits, roughly amidships and outboards. There are illustrations in Rousmaniere's book showing such an arrangement.

 

And a very happy new year to all of you! :champagne:

peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Running rigging; setting sail

 

The first sail to set was the schooners main sail, the spanker. Trying to make the sail with the fabric provided with the kit didn't work - it was too flimsy. I couldn't mark the seams with pencil as the fabric was too elastic and deformed under the pencil.

 

Therefore I took the same - a bit stiffer - cotton I used for Pickles sails. As Americas sails were made of cotton I didn't dye it.

All the seams between the clothes of the sail, as well as the reef bands and doubling in the corner were marked with a thin pencil.

 

The hem was glued with the bolt rope put into it. To make cringles the bolt rope was taken out of the hem for a short distance. Trying to use the brass grommets from the kit did not provide good results and I made traditional clew cringles. I know, that especially between foot and luff, most probably a grummet inside the bolt rope was used but for simplicity I reverted to the old fashioned cringle.

 

Now stripes for tablings and reef bands were cut and glued onto the sail. Finally the reef points were thread into the bands and the whole sail well ironed to fix the glue.

 

 

post-504-0-12810900-1485951791.jpg

sail maker at work

 

post-504-0-64183300-1485951791.jpg

it's a huge sail

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nice looking sail making Peter,

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The sail looks amazing! Way better than the ratty ones I made....I would love to see a detailed tutorial on your approach!

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Nils and Martin

 

Thank you for the visit and the compliment.

 

 

Hi Hamilton

 

Ratty? Your sails look great to me.

 

But I think it's very difficult to make seams truly in a scale of 1/64 or similar. That's why I just paint them on with a sharp pencil. The same is true for the boltrope which may look a bit plump when stitched onto the edge of the sail. Gluing it onto that edge is something I never figured how to do. Therefore I glue it into the hem. This is another idea I found in a thread in MSW which I cannot find again. My way of sail making is just a few combined ideas adopted from MSW. A tutorial could therefore have a smell of plagiarism. But you will find more details in my Pickle log and I can try to show a step by step progress when making one of the following sails.

 

And of course pencilling and gluing is quite fast and easily done.

 

The question remains however, how my sails will stand the onslaught of time. The pencilled lines probably will fade but I hope that at least the glue will hold for a few decades. Stitched sails on the other hand could keep in shape for centuries.

 

 

Cheers

peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

To set the sail I mainly followed the kit's instructions. Exceptions are the lashings of the sail to the mast hoops. I prepared double holes in the hem of the sail for a double lashing according to an example in Lees' book. I use a thick pin to puncture the sail fabric also for reef points.

 

An additional feature is the single horse I added on the part of the boom overhanging the stern.

 

And whenever I use rigging hooks I take some leftover Caldercraft or Victory parts.

 

I'm still asking myself if there shouldn't be a down hauler on the gaff to assist the handling of that large sail. On the other hand I believe that the rigging was intentionally kept as simple as possible. There are also no brails on the spanker and they probably just could have used the sail to pull down the gaff. This simple rigging seems to match the illustrations in 'The low black schooner'.

 

post-504-0-49877300-1487088772.jpg

gaff rigged

 

post-504-0-36188800-1487088770.jpg

lashing to the hoops

 

post-504-0-08083200-1487088771.jpg

mast foot and boom

 

post-504-0-50009100-1487088771.jpg

single horse rigged

 

post-504-0-04525700-1487088772.jpg

quite an impressive main sail

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next was the gaff topsail.

First I pondered about the way of setting it. On the newer pictures in Rousmanieres book its luff is attached to the topmast but the kit sets it 'flying'. As actual work up on the topmast could be difficult without ratlines to go there or crosstrees to stand on I followed the simpler kit version as seeming more probable for the original racing version.

 

The sail was first drawn on paper and then its size checked against the model.

 

Then the sail was drawn with pencil on both sides of a piece of fabric. The material for the hems is added along the sides. The seams between the clothes are just double pencil lines.

 

A stripe for the tablings was also marked.

 

A problem was one wrongly drawn line (Of course one of the last on the second side - greetings from Mr. Murphy). First I tried to rub or scratch it off. This just got me a dirty, scratched sail with the line still there but made me a bit more optimistic for the longevity of my pencilled seams. Then I found that with luck I could cover that offending mistake with the hem and so made it disappear.

 

All the edges where I would cut with my the scissors were now soaked with diluted textile glue to avoid fraying.

After drying sail and stripe were cut with the sharpest scissors I could find in the house. The hems were pre-bent to facilitate gluing.

 

The bolt rope, with a strength of 0,5mm, was laid into the hem, glue added and the hem closed around the bolt rope. The hem was pressed with the rear end of a pair of tweezers to improve the connection between fabric and glue.

The boltrope was lead around the corners, leaving some extra length to form a cringle and the procedure repeated for all sides. (If e.g. reef cringles were requested along one side I would just puncture the edge of the sail twice with my strong pin, lead the boltrope outside the hem for a few mm, with some slack in it, and then continue inside the hem again.) Again I decided to use classical cringles on the corners instead of the kit supplied brass grommets.

 

The freshly glued hems were pressed while drying.

 

Then the tablings were cut to size, glued onto the sail and pressed again. The cringles got a small lashing to fix them.

Now the finished sail was well ironed to fix the glue.

 

And then some expressions - not to be repeated before this noble gathering here - where heard.  When I tried to rig the finished sail it was too large - despite the earlier test with the drawing. I had to redo the leech and cut off the width of one cloth in the process. A good soaking with water fortunately weakened the textile glue enough to enable me to pull off the tablings again and to reopen the hem.

 

 

post-504-0-68253800-1487166088.jpg

sail drawn on paper...

 

post-504-0-25311900-1487166088.jpg

...and on both sides of the fabric. That fabric is light enough that you may pencil along the lines on the paper, just visible through it.

 

post-504-0-10701500-1487166089.jpg

lines to cut soaked with diluted glue

 

post-504-0-53549300-1487166089.jpg

sail (and stripe for tablings) cut, first hem pre-bent

 

post-504-0-96125900-1487166089.jpg

bolt rope inside of the hem

 

post-504-0-34253600-1487166090.jpg

some glue added

 

post-504-0-72580200-1487166090.jpg

pressing the fresh hem to improve adhesion

 

post-504-0-47479600-1487166091.jpg

corner with cringle

 

post-504-0-09708900-1487166091.jpg

homemade sail press

 

post-504-0-87890500-1487166091.jpg

finished sail with tablings

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The gaff topsail is set and it draws. I made two little changes to the kits instructions.

 

The tack was led from the sheave on the outer part of the gaff directly to the block on deck. I couldn't make any sense of that block which the kit fastens on a long line from the inner end of the gaff leading the tack towards the deck. According to the KISS principle I left it off.

Another block was added because I didn't want to lead the sheet directly onto its belaying pin. By leading it through a block on deck I could half the pull on the pin and had an arrangement similar to the sheet and the tack.

 

After setting the sail I made a sailor go to the topmast to illustrate the difficulties one would have working on a topsail lashed to the topmast (don't ask me how the poor sailor got there and back). Now I think more than ever that the topsail set flying, as the kit does, would have been the sensible solution for a racing machine.

 

post-504-0-16339400-1487249613_thumb.jpg

lower corner with sheet attached

 

post-504-0-58601900-1487249613_thumb.jpg

top halliard (the slim hook is a leftover Caldercraft part)

 

post-504-0-08858000-1487249614.jpg

mast foot with additional block for the sheet

 

post-504-0-45438200-1487249614.jpg

the sail is set and the simplified leading of the tack clearly visible

 

post-504-0-86973600-1487249614_thumb.jpg

this working station looks scary even under calm harbour conditions

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

nicely set canvas Peter,

looks good  :)

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Outstanding sails Peter!

Can't wait to see the ship's boats mounted.  It is my understanding that she crossed the Atlantic with the boats, which were removed for the race.  The Mamoli kit did not show davit mount holes on the deck that I could make out.  Speaking of davits, I think I saw one drawing/painting with an anchor davit in place.

Anyway, can't wait to see the rest of the sails.

 

- Tim

Current Builds:  Cutty Sark

 

Finished Builds:  Yacht America

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many thanks, Nils.

Much easier to work with canvas on a small yacht than with steel on a huge liner. Wouldn't you like to try another sailboat after sending your behemoth ocean liner onto her maiden voyage (through your living room, or wherever)?

 

 

 

So do I, Tim. Yes, it seems, that those boats were only in place when she wasn't racing. As the jib boom went overboard quite early, and because I like the kit's appearance with the additional outer jib, I will show her in the configuration before winning the race and also with boats. As I also mentioned before, a ship without boats looks somewhat unfinished or even abandoned to me.

 

Anchor davits: I know of only one model showing them. Perhaps they really had anchor davits for convenience and offloaded them together with the boats when racing. On the other hand, those anchors in the kit would probably weigh just around 50 to 100 kg. It should be possible to manhandle them with a few sailors and perhaps a provisional tackle to the masthead. (No permanent mast tackles were mentioned anywhere for America.) Hence, I'm afraid, my America's crew will have to shed some sweat to rise or drop the anchors.

 

 

Cheers

peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The fore gaff sail was made and set the same way as the main gaff sail. The main difference was the missing boom.

The sheets with tackles are installed as per kit instruction. I mainly use the kit blocks but try to improve their appearance by rounding the corners a bit with a nail file.

 

IMG_1048.jpg.ec55099cdc9725308128ca843ad40afc.jpg

fore gaff

 

 

 

IMG_1049.jpg.71572d018636b76af7f8ed292eee7524.jpg

mast foot

 

 

IMG_1044.jpg.c1b31874398b50fac1b5f1e8a8dbd685.jpg

upwind sheet around the mainmast

 

 

IMG_1046.jpg.38648a5e307f7645b02ec39276e90949.jpg

downwind sheet

 

 

IMG_1039.jpg.6948804546a734d1191f22797a1107d1.jpg

about two thirds of the whole sail area are now set

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really nice work, Peter, as always.  When the final third of the canvas goes up, her lines will be clear in all their refinement.  Can't wait!

 

cheers

 

Martin

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you, Martin.

Should be rather straightforward from now. Only the size of the jib with the differently set up fore stay must be checked. Then only the outer jib and finally the boats remain.

Almost time to start thinking about the next project.:blink:

 

Cheers

peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The next sail, the jib, needs a bit more planning. By changing the rigging of the fore stay, I was bringing it more inboard and changed the sail size as well. The sail from the kit plan was adapted to the new stay. Then I cut a paper template and checked it against the model. After resizing it twice I had a fitting sail template.

The boom had to be shortened as well, of course.

 

IMG_1052.jpg.47ba0ef1b57a524ba269fbc2315f3800.jpg

paper template for the jib sail

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Martin

Yep, perhaps. Right now I'm considering 7 projects, from Revenge or a bettered Wasa to Agamemnon, Vanguard, Diana, a rigged Confederacy and Cutty Sark. The big question is where to berth the finished ship. Perhaps you heard of that problem - even the best of all admiralties has limits.

Cheers

peter

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...