MikeB4

English Pinnace by MikeB4 - Model Shipways - 1:24

93 posts in this topic

Finally got the tree nails completed. This is one of my least favorite parts of the build. It's so tediously boring and time consuming it's like driving through Kansas. It isn't perfect by any means but I can live with it. I used tooth picks for the nails and they are a little darker than I wanted them to be. I put a coat of WOP and will let that dry for a couple of days before I paint the waterline.

post-7274-0-09633700-1481978295_thumb.jpg

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I didn't realize those frames would be hard to sand. The result is very cool. The knock out centers is an interesting idea.

Nirvana, MikeB4 and FriedClams like this

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Good to see you back, Mike. Everything seems time consuming on the longboat so I'm not surprised it's much different for the pinnace. It's coming along nicely.

Steve

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Using a technique with wood glue that I saw another member use, I carved out the decorative transom out of bass wood. I may try carving another one out of box wood to see how it comes out.

decorative transom.jpg

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Looking good Mike. What is new about the Tamiya tape, other than the color? I've used it for quite a while and it used to be yellowish.

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This tape is made to curve around things. It's much stronger than the yellow stuff and the paint doesn't seep under the tape like I've experienced with other masking tapes. Plastic model builders are buying this tape up like crazing because it really works well.  

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I'll give it a shot. Tamiya tape has always been the best IMO.

 

You may already know about this - one solution for seepage is to paint the tape edge with Tamiya clear paint. It seals up that "joint". This has been a great help for me.

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Similar tape can be bought from car paint shops. They have a very nice flexible blue tape that does the trick. I don't know about the price difference, but would guess the tape from a car paint shop should be slightly cheaper.

But when it comes to the pinnace I am surprised of the difficulties involved.

I would have guessed the pinnace would have been little easier than the longboat. This due to it's size.

 

But Mike, you have done a fantastic job and recovery of her.

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I thought it was going to be easier than the longboat also, but it's been quite a challenge for me. After I'm finished with this one I'm going to get away from building small model boats to building larger ships and boats. Maybe the planking will not be as difficult. I know every model is going to be a challenge in it's own way no matter the size.

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As an admittedly boxwood biggoted modeler - welcome to a new world! It will never be the same again :D

 

Tiller looks great!

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Thank you, It's definitely not perfect by any means but I push my way through it and try not to obsess over some of it's imperfections. There's a certain level that you got to live with in order to to progress. 

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I got the back seat fitted and installed. I've put my first layer of paint on. I'll let that dry before putting the next layer down and continue the process until I'm satisfied with the paint job. One thing that I should mention is I created a template for the cap rail before installing the seat because I think once the seat is installed it will make it difficult to use the hull to trace out the cap rail.

backseat.jpg

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Mike - it kinda looks like the seat back would make it difficult to add a cap rail at all. Particularly if there is to be some overhang on the inside. Does the rail pass behind the seat back?

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Yes I agree, that's why I traced out the cap rail on a piece of card stock before installing the seat. So all I have to do is transfer it to wood. Having the outside dimensions correct it shouldn't be to hard to cut the inside edge and then fit it to the boat. The instructions doesn't have me trace out and install the cap rail for several more steps in the build. I think at that point it would be very difficult to trace it out.

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Hey Mike - going back to your post #78 - did you have to bend that riser plank(s) before you put it in? Also how did you get the risers positioned correctly on the frames?

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Mike,

Yes, I had to bend the risers in order for them to fit correctly. I soaked them in water for about 10 minutes, at that point they're soft enough to bend into position. I started from the bow and worked my way back because there you have to bend the wood in two directions. you have to curve it slightly down as well as around the frames. working your way back it gets easier. I measured from the sheer down equally the entire length and I just marked it with a pencil. 

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Thanks Mike - I have a pear wood replacement set for this build. I gave up during planking - Just couldn't get the wood bent correctly. I'm thinking of trying again with the kit basswood. Should bend and shape a lot easier. Seeing your build come together is making me want to get back to it.

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She keeps getting better and better Mike. I'm still waiting to see how you deal with the cap rails.

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