ChrisLBren

Workshop Advice

73 posts in this topic

Chris,

You will love you new shop. Lighting and dust collection are critical as already stated. I was looking at you tool layout and have a couple of recommendations.

 

Your Jim Byrnes tools all use the stock the long way. They should align with the long edge of the table. Using the saw against the wall will cause you problems- not enough room for the runout. Same problem will exist with the thickness sander. The run-out will go into the oscillating sander.

 

I find like any table saw, I use the Byrnes saw from the end of my bench so I can push the stock through. The thickness sander is a pull through machine and is offset from my saw.

 

Take a look at post #41 to see what I mean.

 

As for buying a 10" table saw, a contractor's saw is all you need. Don't get a floor model unless you are going to use it and store it in the garage. This tool makes an awful mess; not something I would use in my boatyard. As for a thickness planer,

you will only need it if you buy rough stock. If you buy S2S (surfaced 2 sides) milled lumber, the table saw will do the job of squaring up the stock.

 

As an alternative, see if the local schools have a woodworking class and they will probably more than happy to help out if needed. A cabinet or millwork shop for the same.

 

I hope some of this helps.

 

Regards

robnbill, druxey, Canute and 5 others like this

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Thanks for the replies ! As far as my power tool setup on the bench - these tools are simply stored this way - when in operation they will get reconfigured - again they are on a table with coasters - so I will push the bench away from the wall when in use (thickness sander, Byrnes table saw etc).

 

As far as the table saw - just buying a 745 portable Dewalt which will enable me to rip down a board to usuable stock for the Byrnes tools. The planer also will make life much easier than relying on the Byrnes Thickness sander - which is a precision tool.

 

For now - finishing the Confederacy - almost there !

Chris

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Been following this thread for some time, great looking shops, great ideas. Dust collection as always been an issue for me, not so much the wood shop but the hobby shop I have set up in the spare bedroom. One trick I am using from my airplane building days, take a big fluffy beach towel and run it in the dryer without fabric softener then lay it on the bench and sand away. The static will attract the dust particles like magnet. Give it a try. It works!

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Thanks for the feedback and compliments everyone.  I have to say the luxury of a workshop makes all the difference - needless to say I'm really enjoying it - and look forward to the numerous additions I will be making in the future.

 

As far as a build log - I'm working on finishing the Confederacy - hoping to have some updated pics in the next couple weeks when I finish the headrails.  

Nirvana, Mike Y, Canute and 3 others like this

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So far when I have been using the Byrnes thickness sander, I have pulled a table outside, and done the work in the open air.

But it's kind of hard and cold during winter time.

Canute, WackoWolf, mtaylor and 2 others like this

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Per, I simply hook up a cheap workshop vac to my Byrnes Thicknesser and use it indoors with no issues.  A little dust is lost when you feed and extract the wood through the mouth but not a lot I find.  the biggest bugbear is having to clean the filter in the Vac a lot :(  - seriously looking at a cyclune  system (if they separate such fine particle - still investigating).

 

cheers

 

Pat

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Chris,

You will love you new shop. Lighting and dust collection are critical as already stated. I was looking at you tool layout and have a couple of recommendations.

 

Your Jim Byrnes tools all use the stock the long way. They should align with the long edge of the table. Using the saw against the wall will cause you problems- not enough room for the runout. Same problem will exist with the thickness sander. The run-out will go into the oscillating sander.

 

I find like any table saw, I use the Byrnes saw from the end of my bench so I can push the stock through. The thickness sander is a pull through machine and is offset from my saw.

 

Take a look at post #41 to see what I mean.

 

As for buying a 10" table saw, a contractor's saw is all you need. Don't get a floor model unless you are going to use it and store it in the garage. This tool makes an awful mess; not something I would use in my boatyard. As for a thickness planer,

you will only need it if you buy rough stock. If you buy S2S (surfaced 2 sides) milled lumber, the table saw will do the job of squaring up the stock.

 

As an alternative, see if the local schools have a woodworking class and they will probably more than happy to help out if needed. A cabinet or millwork shop for the same.

 

I hope some of this helps.

 

Regards

All good advice. A note on the tablesaw. I have both a Byrnes and a Sawstop table saws. Since I am scratch building, I do buy rough lumber usually in 8" x 2" x 8'. So I use the Sawstop to mill the lumber down to smaller sections then use the Byrnes to perform final cuts on the smaller stock.

 

On another note. 10" Table saws are VERY dangerous beasts. Every day, people loose fingers to these. The SawStop saw not only is a fantastic saw, it prevents this from happening. If you are in the market for a 10" TS. Look at the SawStop. Woodcraft stores as well as other sell them. I don't have any stock in them but I love the saw and highly recommend it for the 10". It will never replace the Byrnes for the close work, but it is a safer saw than the Byrnes.

 

I need both saws. However as Chris pointed out, the 10" TS puts out a huge amount of dust. So dust collection both active and ambient is critical if you want the dust controlled.

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