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James H

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  1. Well, my bench has been idle for long enough... HMS Sphinx is the next major release from Vanguard Models, and as per the previous 4 main kit releases and the 8 ship's boats, I'll be building up the production prototype and creating the instruction manual. Just a little 'ye potted historie' of Sphinx: She was a 20-gun sixth rate launched in 1775. Captured by the French in September 1779, she was recaptured by HMS Prosperpine on 29 November 1779. Sphinx was finally broken up in 1811. Onwards... One thing you'll note if you buy the completed kit is that there's quite a weight. Chris shipped me two complete sets of wooden parts (and some fittings), and that pack, minus any plans, heavy manual or the numerous sets of photo-etch, came in at a whopping 7kg. Factor in around half that weight, plus those missing items, and you'll see it's a bumper pack. There are over thirty sheets of laser cut material, also incorporating the three ship's boats (a good number of different thicknesses). Apart from the MDF sheets which comprise the Sphinx's skeleton, a ply sheet with the lower deck etc, laser-engraved maple decks, the rest of the material is pearwood. Two bundles of strip wood are included; the obligatory lime for first planking, and some 0.8mm thick pear for second planking. The colour is this really is very nice. There are numerous changes between the first test hull Chris built and featured on MSW, and this version, with deleted parts, new parts, and things which have been improved further to make building even more enjoyable. I now have a few days of acquainting myself with the original reference build pics before I can start this, probably this coming weekend. Cannon are in black resin and nigh on ready to use. They look really nice, and the cannon balls are in black plastic, so no painting. Boat beam brackets are in very strong resin, and there is a sheet of laser-cut acetate for the stern/quarter windows. The stern fascia is cast in resin and also looks seriously nice. The figurehead is beautifully detailed and 3D printed. Stern lanterns will be from PE and resin. The colours on this will be very similar to the Duchess of Kingston, but with red inner bulwarks. Whilst my build will be strictly 'out of box', the scope for extra detailing the cabin at the stern, will be more than a temptation for some, with that engraved, chequered floor and engraved doors to the quarter galleries. As there will undoubtedly be questions I can't answer, feel free to use this log to also ask Chris questions that are specific to this release. I'm sure he'll chime in with any extra contents details I missed here. Wish me luck ☘️
  2. And those links also seem to be solid all round with no joint, so pulling shouldn't present a problem. To remove that section, I had to cut right through a link.
  3. I’ve asked, but I don’t think it’s coated, so should be easy enough to blacken. I’ll try with a test piece shortly.
  4. Brass chain - various sizes Artscale The good folks at Artscale have sent me a few samples of their new brass chain. The samples sent are: Gross - €3,00 Coarse - €3,00 Medium - €3,00 Fine - €3,00 All chain is provided on metal spools, in 0.5 metre lengths. Each spool is packed into a clear sleeve with a product information insert. The insert is useful as it provides dimensional detail for the chain links. It's very difficult to actually review chain, so this article serves as a guide as to the size of this product and it's suitability to your own project(s). I can tell you that the chain quality is very good and will certainly find its use in my future project work. Chain isn't something many of us actively seek out, so here's a handy article for you to bookmark, if you need to buy something specific. Check out each link for the sizes above and you'll be taken directly to the product page. My sincere thanks to Artscale for providing these samples to be published here at Model Ship World. Head over to their site for this and many other goodies (including coffee!)
  5. Cheers guys. Of course, the Cobra is still being built in another topic, and that's now halfway through. BUT....HMS Sphinx begins this week, and that's where the lion's share of my time will be spent.
  6. STAGE 99: REAR VALANCE, FOG LIGHTS & CONNECTING THE BODY TO THE CHASSIS & STAGE 100: REAR BUMPER, FRONT & REAR LICENSE PLATES The rear valance is now fitted with fog lights. I also fit the reg plate from stage 100 too. Before the body can be fitted to the chassis, all the wiring is finally connected and batteries inserted into the engine compartment to check that all is ok. Fitting the body took me quite a bit of time in making sure all lugs and holes were in alignment, and also that all cables were safe from being trapped. That aerial is also most at risk here when you turn the car over. You might notice no rear wheels in this picture. That's because I broke the rear axle as mentioned at the start, and I decided it safest to fit the wheels last, prior to turning the car the right way round. The valence is now fitted and the number added. I also screw the front reg plate into position. All done!!!!!!!! Conclusion A lovely project that will doubtless be much loved by any petrol head or Shelby fan. The details are superb and the size of this means it's no shrinking violet. You'll need a nice care to display it, and also a strong shelf! All electronics worked as they should, from the engine sounds, to horn, rear lights and front lights. A year's worth of work is finally at an end and my bench will certainly look different with this now gone from it.
  7. STAGE 98: SUN VISORS & REAR VIEW MIRROR The liner is now fitted with the sun shields and rear view mirror. The liner itself now just pushes into place with no problems. The aerial is perhaps the only real puzzling part for me. This should've ideally been a push fit for the last item added, but instead it needs to be screwed into the underside of the body before you can fit it, providing a hazard from this point on as you work on the model. Take care with that aerial!
  8. STAGE 97: HEADLINER Even though you get the liner, you can't fit it yet. Instead, both doors are fitted. Make sure these are nice and tight. They should also face a little resistance when pushed fully closed, giving them a positive close-fit.
  9. STAGE 96: DOOR TRIM AND SILL PLATES Those sparse door entry points need prettying up, so these trims and sills are now added. These just push into place with zero fuss on both driver and passenger side.
  10. STAGE 93: UPPER VENT GRILLE STAGE 94: REAR WINDOW The windshield wipers from the previous stage are now screwed into position on the upper vent grille, and the panel slid into place on the body, then screwed into position. STAGE 94: REAR WINDOW & STAGE 95: REAR WINDOW FRAME & RADIO ANTENNA You know the drill! Both rear window and frame fit nicely into position with ease.
  11. Pack 12 This is it folks....the final work on this behemoth, and the finished result is VERY heavy and impressive. I've had a snag along the way that delayed me posting this. When you manoeuvre your car around, DO NOT put the weight of the model on any of the back wheels. I did that and snapped the wheel fixing point of the rear axle. You live and learn, and it was so frustrating. STAGE 91: WINDSHIELD & STAGE 92: WINDSHIELD FRAME AND WIPERS Real care needs to be taken not to touch the main clear area of the windscreen, for obvious reasons. Thankfully, this just sits neatly in place with zero effort, and the windshield frame locks it into position with a few clicks.
  12. Remember, the 15% off sale expires this weekend. All proceeds to future kit development 😁
  13. Real nice and I like those shield patterns and adding the plank simulation. I like this one:
  14. Just a quick update before I take a short break to start work on Sphinx (next week). I'll be splitting my time for this, but will glue and make a few parts while I'm waiting on Sphinx stuff to dry etc. Nonetheless, my priority is Sphinx as you'll want to see it released as soon as possible. For Granado, this is roughly where I'm currently at. On the side which will be exposed frame-wise, I added treenails. My intention was to drill and use black monofilament for these, but I got sick of breaking drill bits, trying to get inside the curve. I then decided to use a jeweller's beading tool to make an impression with a rounded head in the centre. A soft pencil was then used to colour the indent, and any excess removed with an eraser. The keel was then slotted into the jig and the double frames carefully glued onto the keel. I spent a few evenings doing this to make sure it was right and everything was level. A few slivers of wood were pushed into places to ensure an even gap between frames, whilst things dried. Clamps were used to hold the upper timbers in position against each other. The keelson is made from two parts, perfectly fitting, as seen here. I have started to build the riders and their ribs, but I've now stopped work as I highlighted an error to Tom at CAF. The side floor timbers are supposed to be slotted on the underside. This is because some of the internal timbers run through those slots, and they are needed so those planks can be located in the hull. Those timbers are missing those slots, and Tom is now aware and remaking those to send out to customers. I have, however, glued the keelson into the hull, and you'll see that image next time.
  15. Nice to have you back with us! What kept you? 😆
  16. I'm told this could be next month, so anytime in the next 6 weeks, hopefully.
  17. I think the Vespucci was the kit I always longed for when I first started, and it passed me by. Nice to see this progressing.
  18. Those particular marks are to bevel the chock area, but I never bothered with angling those sockets to fit the chocks in at an angle. I couldn't see any gain for the effort. Also, the chocks are the same thickness as the other timbers, so angling them will cause at least one area to be lower than the proper surface when fitted, as I found out when I did them on frame #6. You'll also note the joints between timbers are shown angled. They aren't. I just fit them as simple horizontal joints. Nice to see someone else working on this one too, and your second post on MSW in 8yrs! 😜
  19. Wow, you sure this is your first ship model? She really is looking very nice, and I'll follow along. I know what you mean about CD instructions. My MacBook Pro doesn't even have a CD, and if it did, I wouldn't have it lounging around in a dusty workshop.
  20. STAGE 48: MOUNTING BOX AND MAIN SWITCH Another switch! This time a toggle for the car's on/off circuit. This pushes into place as seen here and a clip/screw used to secure it. The switch took a little effort to seat evenly. The mounting box is now fitted with pipes and the united screwed into position on the underside of the car. A little lid is also supplied. No surprise that this is where the batteries for the electronics will eventually fit. Last up is another cable management clip that helps to hold down the cable that I originally taped down for safety. That's it for another month!
  21. STAGE 47: ACCELERATOR PEDAL & SWITCH, BRAKE PEDAL & SWITCH, CLUTCH PEDAL, FLOOR PLATE The pedal floor plate just pushes into position on top of the driver's floor mat, and then the accelerator, brake and clutch pedals are fitted as seen with screws from the reverse. Microswitch assemblies are now fitted for two of the pedals. A switch is just pushed into a holder and the holder screwed to the cockpit reverse. A quick test of the switches with the pedals shows a positive action. No problems there! Cable management clips are now used to route the cables along the underside.
  22. STAGE 46: GEAR LEVER, HANDBRAKE AND U-BAR This simple pack adds the hand brake and gear levers, plus the console u-bar. The hand brake just pushes into the side of the interior while the remainder screw into place from underneath.
  23. STAGE 45: COCKPIT REAR WALL Same for the cockpit rear wall that is now carefully offered up to the cockpit interior and secured with four more screws.
  24. STAGE 44: RIGHT FLOOR SECTION AND FLOOR MATS More delicate interior work now that I try so hard not to touch with my fingers! The passenger and driver floor mat just push neatly into position.
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