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Posts posted by thibaultron
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Beware of the kits they put out at the end of production! My neighbor was interested in a simple kit, so I bought the last one Hobby Lobby had, after they stopped production, and gave it to him as a gift. When he started it, they had only supplied the planking for one side, and had changed the parts list in the instructions from Quantity 2 to Quantity 1! I gave him my older kit so he could finish it. That kit listed quantities of 2 for these parts.
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When you finish repairing the siding, I would suggest putting some of the mobile home vented skirting around the bottom, to prevent rain splash from getting on the bottom of the siding flooring joint, and wicking back between them. I dont think the latice will do an adiquit job.
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Many Chesapeake Bay workboats are and were painted white, including the decks. Plain wood slabs were then set over the most abused areas, to protect the decking.
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I've used DesignCAd for a couple decades, not nearly as long as the others. It is a reasonable price and offers discount on future upgrades. I generally upgrade about every 4 years. It does have a steep learning curve, but so do the others. I started by just leafing through the manual and seeing what each command could do, then start simple.
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You may have to clean after several coats, as the pint may start to dry in the brush, and definately when you change colors.
Here is a good clinic
- Blue Pilot, Canute, mtaylor and 1 other
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When I was doing my smooth bore I did find one ship with ports on the weather deck guns. The plans were from a well known author, but I have since lost the info. So I built mine with the port lid, but with line rather than chain rigging.
- Canute, mtaylor and Duanelaker
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Before you continue with the bottom, you need to finish the roof over the loft. Trying to get insulation and some type of panneling, or drywall up will be much more difficult if there is "stuff" in danger below you. It would have been better overall to have done it before the loft floor was installed.
In my shop I added an additional row of studs on the inside walls and put in a double layer of insulation. This has greatly reduced the heating and cooling costs. Mine is 16X30 shed. My rafters were 2X6s and I double insulated the roof by screwing 2X2s to the bottom of them. so two layers of R-13 batts give me R-26, top and sides.
I also made provisions for a half bath, as I've gotten older I find I need more frequent use of such, and having to go back in the house disrupts the work. It will also be easier to wash my hands if they get paint or something on them, rather than again going to the house, with the added risk of transferring said stuff to the house doorknobs or interior.
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When I made my smooth bore model, I condidered the deck/bulkhead as a setting for the model, rather than a model in itself, so just made it look good, not highly detailed.
- Duanelaker, Canute and mtaylor
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You might concider silkspan sails rather than using the material supplied, which is both to thick and too course a weave. Search the forum for info on making them.
- VTHokiEE and Duanelaker
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Waterway! Wish I had thought about that when I built mine. It never occurred to me. I built the deck pretty much from the instructions. I did add hooks to the gun control lines and used the stropping line instead of the chain for the gun lid rigging. Could not imagine them having a chain constantly rubbing on a closed lid.
- Canute, mtaylor and Duanelaker
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The general rule of painting multiple colors is that the lightest color goes down first, progressing toward the darker colors.
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Dinghy by Duanelaker - FINISHED - Midwest Products - 1:12
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day
Posted · Edited by thibaultron
No, I can't remember the color of the one I bought.