thibaultron

I ordered a couple books from them, and they arrived in a reasonable time. To add to the prior post about the US mail delays. I just received a photo that was mailed out 12/12, almost 7 weeks, so be patient, it likely is not their fault.

I'm sure none of the rest of us is addicted to collecting! 😆 I figured out that if I build one ship per month I'll have to live to 81, just to complete the ship kits I have! This doesn't count trains, planes, and automobile models. But at least I have an interesting selection to choose from!

Nice!

The remaining items are going on ebay, thanks for looking and to those who purchased some of the kits!

One thing I do with my P&S is that I have one of those round lamps with the magnifier lens in the center. I will sometimes shoot a small part through the lens. ie. camera - lamp lens - part. It takes a bit to get everything focused, but it's free! I do most of my modeling of small stuff looking through the lamp lens anyway.

The We're Here and Gjoa are sold.

The Gjoa has been reserved.

The Wasa, canoe, We're Here, and the Model Expo canon, and limber are sold.

Doesn't the Gorilla glue take 24hrs?

If I didn't already have the two Model expo naval cannon kits (one built), and their old Sea Mortar kit, which I've designed a deck diorama for, I have kept the Wasa for my self (only so much display space). It is a very nice kit.

Looks good, along with a color shot, it should make building easier. A few 3D diagrams like for your earlier Olympia figure would also be helpful, for getting everything placed.

Shokaku. Gazuntite!

A thin knife edge file?

The Yamato was done in 1/200 years ago by someone.

I have several items I ordered before Christmas (a couple 12/15) that are still orbiting the various Postal Centers. One has been sitting in the same center since the middle of last month. The others keep getting sent from one center in Atlanta to another in rotation.

Was there a finish already on the wood before you sprayed? Also, Tamayia paints are not true lacquers. Try spraying a sample of wood using the Tamiyia brand thinner. It looks like a reaction between either an existing coat, or the chemicals in the paint/thinner mix.

On another aspect of using Vallejo, and other flat paint, and something I've been wondering about myself. Decaling. Specifically, how to apply the decals to a flat paint surface. It has been a few decades since I did any decalling, and then it was on gloss finishes.

I was watching a Model Railroad seminar last weekend, and one of the presenters described his method. He shoots the entire finish painted model (painted with Vallejo) with Future Floor polish (I assume any good gloss clear would work). I had thought of spot glossing the decal area, this is much better. He then applies the decals with the appropriate solutions to get them settled. He then shoots the entire model again with clear, step I had not considered. He says that this blends in the clear part of the decal film. A good idea. Then he finishes with a final flat coat. In his case Dullcoat. As model rail cars get handled a lot, I this must give a good durable finish.

When I get to the decalling stage on my models, I'll try it this way.

Hitting a really poor kit, with a hammer, into splinters to remove it from the world?😄

As a side note. During the firing they discovered that the 24 pound shot would go through both sides of the ship, even if it hit one of the frames dead on. It was actually (realitively) better for the crew if it missed the frames, as there were fewer splinters created. This info was from a lecture I found on several ship wrecks, given at the Texas A&M university, I think.

Here is his test of some of the Badger Stynylrez primers. Badger also has several other color primers, the Black, White, Gray, and Red Brown (and maybe the Flesh) are probably more along our lines (for ships at least). The Synylrez has a better durability, and sandability reputation than the Vallejo ones. Vallejo has, in my experience, terrible sanding properties, and requires 48 hours or so of setting before overcoating for decent durability.  Styntlrez is rated for a 0.5mm needle, and I believe 30PSI for application.

I forgot to mention. The ps-290 (the trigger one) uses a fair amount of air 35 liters/minute, or (thanks to the internet) ~1.25 gallons/minute. The small airbrush compressors are rated at ~20 l/m, so one with a tank is pretty much required, and then with breaks to refill. My Harbor Freight 3 gallon compressor is rated 0.9 g/m at 40PSI, so it might be able to keep up at 30 or so PSI.

A corrding to the one video, the IWATA Pistol grip fits the 290.

Here are some reviews on the airbrushes Barbatos Rex uses in his videos. I neither have these, nor represent the manufacturer, etc. It is interesting to note that these brushes are made in the same factory as IWATA!  I think I'm going to pick up the 290, at least as it seems to be the same as the IWATA, but less expensive. I need it for priming large models at least. I'm thinking of a Badger Patriot for general use, but the adjustable air flow valve on the 270/289 might come in handy.

This might be an alternative spray booth for some.

A couple more painting videos from Barbatos Rex.

The first is a general arcylic painting video. This one was a few months before the "Painting Vallejo Air" video, I first posted. He is using the .2mm needle for these, rather than the .5mm in the other video.

The next is one one the new Vallejo Mecha paints. These are designed for rougher handling, in this case for poseable models (robot models).

He says he is going to be doing decalling, clear coating, and making your own decals videos, soon.