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Posts posted by thibaultron
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In the model railroad hobby, they have been saying the same thing for over 60 years! This hobby will also survive.
- ccoyle, Taken Aback, Chuck Seiler and 5 others
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I save my work several times during a session upping the "Revision" number each time (i.e. File_011.f3d, File_002....). This allows me to both not loose the last X (mins, hours) time of work, if the computer or program hiccups, (or a cat jumps on my keyboard), or I think of a better way to do an operation. And Yes, I have some of my projects that have run into hundreds of revision files. I can always delete or Zip them when I finish.
Do not be afraid to go back and redo something, if you find new information/details during the design, or something you did does not print and fit like you thought.
- NavyShooter, FreekS and Canute
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I run piece of wire or wood into the bore and touch hole to get any resin out, and print with the muzzles pointing away from the plate to encourage the resin to drip out. Holding the barrel in a pool of cleaner while cleaning the bore helps. I let the cannons dry over night, after final cleaning, before curing them. This allows any moisture in the barrel to dry, and not have liquid run out and mar the exterior surface.
For larger scales I have an UV LED that run into the barrel, to insure the bore is cured.
I think I detailed these steps earlier in this thread.
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Depending on how must saw dust or dust you are creating, several companies make ceiling mount units similar to this.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-hanging-air-filter-3-speed/g0738
I was lucky ans found a delta unit used for much less.
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Bragdon Weathering Powders, are more expensive, but are made from finely ground real materials, like the Rust is finely ground rust. They also have a pressure sensitive adhesive, so will stay on the surface, and be less susceptible to being rubbed off after application. With any of these a light coat of flat clear should be concidered to lock the powders in place.
- scrubbyj427, KennyH78, Jack12477 and 2 others
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I would suggest using the window on the side as a guide rather than the door. I think the door is regular height, but narrow.
- Canute, Keith Black and Paul Le Wol
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At least on Chesapeake Bay boats the Trailboard was in two pieces, as one piece was mounted on the hull and the other then angled out from it to the bowsprit. The joint was angled so the board met seamlessly between the two parts. This also accounts for the upward curve of this section.
As a side note typically the only blue on a boat in this area was on the trailboard, as a background to the stars and name, representing the blue background on the US flag. It was otherwise concidered bad luk to paint any part of the boat blue.
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Here are the files for the 9 Pounder Carronade with trunions carriage for the individual parts. They need the same fabricated parts as in the previous post. Install the eyelet with the ring onto the cheek, before building the carriage, otherwise you could break the assembled cheek. Holes for the rest of the eyelets should be drilled for depth, and or diameter after the carriage parts are built. Install the eyelets before adding the trucks and hoops.
The transom is installed with its lower back edge even with the upper back edge of the front axletree, and the "nose" overhanging the axletree at the front.
Cheek A
Cheek B
Front axletree hoop (holds the truck/wheel on).
Front Axletree. The hole for the horizontal eyelet goes toward the front.
Front truck/wheel
Quion
Rear Axletree Hoop
Rear Axletree. The hole for the horizontal eyelet goes toward the rear.
Shelf stool, the semicircular grove fits over the cross brace bolt shaft.
Transom. Angles backward.
Cap-Squares They are mirror images of each other, and only fit in place over the trunions correctly on their respective sides. They should run lengthwise, even with the top of the cheeks with the cannon mounted.
STL files (Zipped)
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One more set of files. Several months ago I posted a file for a 9 Pounder Carronade with trunnions. Here is a file for the associated carriage that was on the drawing. This file has the carriage body as one piece with the shelf, quoin, and trucks (wheels with the locking band as separate parts. In a few days I will be posting a set of files with all the parts as separate pieces. You have to make the eyelets and rings yourself, as well as add a piece of wire for the cross brace bolt.
Here is a picture of the Carranade barrel and the file for it. The trunnions have been drawn over long, and should be trimmed to length, during the fitting to the carriage.
Cannonade 9 Pounder with Extended Trunnions Full Size_1174_62mm.stl
Here are the general arraignment graphics for the assembled carriage, with the various rings and eyelets labeled.
Here is a dimensioned drawing of the rings and eyelets. Note: the "B" eyelet is now a part of the caps, and do not have to be formed. You will have to put in a wire between the two holes on the inside of the carriage sides, for the cross brace. This rod also supports one end of the shelf. This rod is shown in the bottom view graphic (above).
This is the drawing of the carriage parts.
This is the file.
9 Pounder Carronade Single Piece Carriage_Full Size_1235_87mm.stl
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You can buy a CD player that plugs into a USB port on your computer.
- catopower, scrubbyj427 and Canute
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The new files are now in the NRG resources section.
- Thukydides, westwood and TJM
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I will shortly be adding the guns for HMS Tiger circa 1680. I have to finish creating the graphics.
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Commonwealth 32 Pounder 108
Commonwealth Pattern 32 Pounder 108 Charles II Cypher Full Size_2959_89mm.stl
Commonwealth Pattern 32 Pounder 108 No Cypher Full Size_2959_89mm.stl
Commonwealth 32 Pounder 114
Commonwealth Pattern 32 Pounder 114 Charles II Cypher Full Size_3124_20mm.stl
Commonwealth Pattern 32 Pounder 114 No Cypher Full Size_3124_20mm.stl
- DaveRow and Mr Pleasant
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Commonwealth 24 Pounder 102
Commonwealth Pattern 24 Pounder 102 Charles II Cypher Full Size_2798_76mm.stl
Commonwealth Pattern 24 Pounder 102 No Cypher Full Size_2798_76mm.stl
Commonwealth 24 Pounder 108
Commonwealth Pattern 24 Pounder 108 Charles II Cypher Full Size_2960_16mm.stl
Commonwealth Pattern 24 Pounder 108 No Cypher Full Size_2960_16mm.stl
Commonwealth 24 Pounder 114
Commonwealth Pattern 24 Pounder 114 Charles II Cypher Full Size_3124._60mm.stl
Commonwealth Pattern 24 Pounder 114 No Cypher Full Size_3124_60mm.stl
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Commonwealth 18 Pounder 108
Commonwealth Pattern 18 Pounder 108 Charles II Cypher Full Size_2959_63mm.stl
Commonwealth Pattern 18 Pounder 108 No Cypher Full Size_2959_63mm.stl
Commonwealth 18 Pounder 114
Commonwealth Pattern 18 Pounder 114 Charles II Cypher Full Size_3124_46mm.stl
Commonwealth Pattern 18 Pounder 114 No Cypher Full Size_3124_46mm.stl
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Commonwealth 12 Pounder 96
Commonwealth Pattern 12 Pounder 96 Charles II Cypher Full Size_2633_40mm.stl
Commonwealth Pattern 12 Pounder 96 No Cyphe Full Size_2533_40mm.stl
Commonwealth 12 Pounder 108
Commonwealth Pattern 12 Pounder 108 Charles II Cypher Full Size_2958_84mm.stl
Commonwealth Pattern 12 Pounder 108 No Cypher Full Size_2958_84mm.stl
- DaveRow, Thukydides and Lieste
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Here are the files.
Commonwealth 9 Pounder 96
Commonwealth Pattern 9 Pounder 96 Charles II Cypher Full Size_2633_40mm.stl
Commonwealth Pattern 9 Pounder 96 No Cypher Full Size_2633_40mm.stl
Commonwealth 9 Pounder102
Commonwealth Pattern 9 Pounder 102 Charles II Cypher Full Size_2785_14mm_006 (repaired).stl
Commonwealth Pattern 9 Pounder 102 No Cypher Full Size_2785_14mm.stl
Commonwealth 9 Pounder 108
Commonwealth Pattern 9 Pounder 108 Charles II Cypher Full Size_2935_82mm.stl
Commonwealth Pattern 9 Pounder 108 No Cypher Full Size_2935_82mm.stl

Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
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Cardstock for printers is about 0.011" thick, or about 1 3/8 thick in 1/120 scale, so you could use that as the sign, and just print the lettering on it. You can buy acid free cardstock, so it would not yellow on you, and would not need to be painted.