thibaultron

Kevin; I read the section in Chappelle's Small Craft book, on the skipjack "Messenger". The skipjacks with wells, did mount the winches on the main deck, according to Chappelle, just abaft the cabin. The crew stood in the well, and cranked it from there. So the shorter winch shown in the fisheries plate, would be correct for this type of skipjack.

Here's a picture of the boxwood square stock for the mast and boom. The wood slab they are mounted on, is what I saw when I opened the end, thus thinking that the slab is what had been sent. The slab itself looks like a nice piece of wood. I wrote them and asked what type of wood it is. I'm going to leave the square stock attached, until I need one. The slab will be good protection, until I can build the wood storage rack.

Here's another set on dredging, taken in 1991. Thanks for the first link Frank!

As I get older, I must be losing neurons faster than I thought. When I got the wood order, it was wrapped up like the Fort Knox version of a mummy, so I only opened one end. What I thought was a chunk of a solid wood slab, was in fact the board they had mounted the wood strips on to protect them during shipment! Still have not managed to strip all the wrapping off of the shipment.

Well dang!! I got my boxwood today, but it is not what I wanted. I guess I did not make my order clear. What I need are 3/32 and 1/8 square stock, for the mast and boom. What they sent was a very nice solid chunk of boxwood, that I have no way to cut into the stock I need. I'm going to reorder when I can get a hold of them.

Part 11C Now I’ll do this again, but with the left hand extrusion vertical, as in the original curve setup. Follow me creates this new extrusion. Again the left hand end, is not in line with the original surface. Upright Extrude gives this. Notice that without the second extrusion to mate to, the right-hand end finishes at an angle not at a right angle to the last line.

Part 11B Using Follow Me, gives the results below. The sections produced flow evenly along the path. The original surface is gone, if it were there, there should be a vertical joint, in the above view off to the right bottom, of the ring. The Upright Extruder produces this. The sections are fairly even, but titled at an angle to the path. Were the original surface was, there is a distorted section, filling in the ring, and a missing surface. The missing surface is not typical of this process, but does pop up now and then, as explained in previous posts. Let’s take a closer look at how the curved extrusions are created. First a tip. If SketchUp makes a curved path that is all one piece and you only need a part of it, you can break up the curve into individual lines, then work on them separately. Select the curve, then right click on it. Select the Explode Curve option from the menu. The curve is now a set of lines, that you can edit individually. Now I’ll shorten the path, and we will look at how the two different extrude operations work. This is the Follow Me result. Once again the sections are even and align with the path, but there is a change in the position of the first (lower left) surface orientation. Remember that the surface we wanted to extrude was parallel to the green axis, but the first surface on the extrusion is angled away from the axis. The first and last faces have been set at right angles to the ends of the path, rather than starting with the original surface, a new one has been generated. The intermediate surfaces, have been set so as to split the angle between the lines, at the joints. The cross section of the extrusion is circular, however. The result of the Upright Extruder is shown below. The intermediate surfaces are at a different angle than for the Follow Me. The first surface, however is in line with the original surface. The last surface is also not at a right angle to the last line. This is a view of just the surfaces, like we saw for the Follow Me version, for comparison. The cross section of the extrusion, is also not quite circular. Next We’ll try to connect to extrusions that have the end surfaces aligned like the Follow Me uses (right angle to the end of the line. The Follow Me extrusion. Even Sections were created. Now the Upright Extrude. Interestingly, the Upright Extrude correctly connected the right hand end, even though it was not in the same plain, than just extruding the surfaces without the end extrusions to connect to. This will not be true if the angle is too different.

Part 11A Part 12 will discuss the winch drawing, promise. I’m already writing it up. I think a more detailed explanation of how the Follow Me and Upright Extruder work is needed. I will use some example extrusions to show the differences. First the Up Right extruder cannot do an extrusions for a path with a sharp angle in it. The first examples are the results of trying to extrude a face, with a 90 degree bend in it. For the Follow Me And for the Upright Extruder Because the Upright Extruder was trying to keep the faces parallel to the original, it was unable to turn the 90 degree corner. If I angle the vertical line just a little, the Upright Extruder, can create an extrusion, but it is distorted. Angling the line a bit more results in a fuller vertical shape, but still oval in cross section. While the Follow Me gives us a circular vertical cross section. The follow Me can also do the extrusion of an acute angle. Now we’ll take a look at what happens when you extrude along a circular path. The surface is not in line with the path, it was drawn along the green (Z) axis, to demonstrate the differences. The picture below shows the extrusion path, in blue.

Why not call them and ask? US manuf. , at least seem to be cooperative in such maters.

They are, in my Carrie Price build log.

Crackers, both the subjects of the tutorial, are detail parts for two of my ship models.

Thank you!

Yes the next couple of weeks will be bad. A friend in Florida died last week, and we are going down to bring her dog to live with us. Next Tuesday, my Sister-In-Law goes in for cancer surgery.

I will probably be away for a week or too, due to family emergencies. See you when I get back.

As if I had not been slow enough on this log the last month, due to a friends death, and other family emergencies, it will probably be at least a couple weeks until I can get back to working on my model. The other problem I'm having, is that with my expansion of the shop, the heater can no longer keep up, and it has been a high of about 50 F in there. Next month I'm going to install more insulation.

Frank. Thanks for the great info!!

I am just trying to help others who can use this info. I think of this as another type of build log.

Part 10C The back side was treated as with the others. On this side I cut away less of the curved area, As this side already slopes more toward the tab's surface. The last side was then connected. Note that I again redrew the corner to include the full length of the adjoined curved surface. These are pictures of the completed end. Looking at the end, I decided that the slope of the first side was to sharp, so I redrew it going one line of surfaces back. Next time back to the winch drawings, and the point I had originally planned to start, before I decided that I needed to cover the previous material first.

Part 10B Next I took a face, and decided where the best line was to start the transition on the side. I started with the hump of the curve, as that will be the side with the most difference between the curved and flat surfaces. I removed the two surfaces that touched the flat, at the point I wanted to start. Then I drew a line between the two intersections, to use as the end of the transition slope. Next I erased the surfaces between the ones I just deleted. I erased the orphaned end of the bar, and extended the line around the entire tab. I will use this as the ending of the slopes around the finished transitions. If a blacksmith flattened the end, this would be how he treated all the sides, making them line up at the start of the flat area. At least, that’s how I would. I then connected the corners of the curved surfaces, to the edge of the line on that side. This ties the curves to the flat, and will serve as two of the corners of the transitions. When I am done the top section of the tab will have been erased, above the bottom of the four transition slopes. I connected the endpoints of the curves to the line, forming the outline of the transition. Using the triangle method I filled in the slope. Starting on the second side, I erased one row above the first, I erased one row above that of the first side, as the curved surfaces were closer to the flat surface of the tab. I also erased the upper area of the tab. On the left you can see that there is a corner left on the last curved surface, of that first side. I erased the sloped border line, and redrew it to include the full length of that surface. I continued in the same manner as for the first side, to fill in this one.

Part 10A Selecting an Object Hint In the tutorial below, I have to erase a fair amount of surfaces. To make it go quicker, there is a trick. If, for example you want to erase two adjoining surfaces, select the line that separates them. It and both surfaces will be erased. Without that line the surfaces now have an open side, and cease to exist. If the surface has one side that is a dashed line, select it, and many times the surface and the solid line will also be erased. I’m not sure why the solid line is erased, but it is. Transitioning from a Round Object, to a Flat Sided One This is how I did the transitions from the round bar stock of the frame, to flat sided shapes that represent the end that is bolted to the others. There may be better ways I don’t know, but I chose this method, it was simple and straight forward. On this frame the ends of the bars are flattened and bolted together. I figured that in the 1890s, this would be done by a blacksmith. I assumed that he would flatten the ends, making them a little wider. This would not leave smooth machine formed modern looking transitions. This allows me to justify my crude transitions. :-). In 1/32nd and 1/64th scales, they will be all but invisible any way. Here is a finished transitions on some of the smaller bars. For this part of the tutorial, I will be making the transition between the 1 ¼” diameter dredge bar, to its tab. The next three pictures show the starting point. The round bar overlaps the flat sided tab. In the picture below, I’ve erased all the other parts, to give us a better view of the operations.

I am not and expert, by any means. I just started using SketchUp about 3 months ago. There may be way better ways to do some of this. The content of these posts is what I have learned of its features, while doing these projects. I have been drafting for my own use for several decades, though.

I would say, just dropped. It would be to heavy to throw. I've never seen a picture, or any written material, on how they did it.

My next task is to redraw these frames, for a 1/64th scale skipjack. Even with the minimum print size limits, it will be near scale cross section. I could not even come close trying to fabricate them. I'm thinking of drawing up the trailboard base, and a railing that was misshapen on the kit. Buying material small enough for the railing has been elusive. I have a couple of kits that to save money, they do not include all the cannon, another plastic kit where one cannon was misshapen. Other small detail, barrels, fish traps. I saw one that was a whole bunch of blocks for a 1/200th scale modern warship, not sure which one. If you are really talented, scale crew figures. Not all of us can fabricate every detail, like the big guys, nor at my age, am I likely to have the time to develop such skills.

Part 09E Next I copied this frame, and flipped it to get a mirror image. Next I moved them together, for the finished frame sides. I think that next time, I will show how I connect a cylindrical part to a smaller rectangular type part. There are probably better ways, but this is what works for me. That should finish the operations that I think were good to use the frame to illustrate.