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thibaultron

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Everything posted by thibaultron

  1. I'll find the more definitive book in a couple days. From "American Ship Models and How To Build Them"; It says that wire rope replaced hemp for standing rigging about 1860. Their instructions state that 3/4" wire rope was used on the skipjack Carrie Price for the shrouds, and 1/2" for the balance of the standing rigging. Hemp was used for the running rigging.
  2. Certainly. I'll have to find the book, its buried, but I know the general location.
  3. I have a Skipjack book around here, I'll look it up.
  4. At the time skipjacks were built, they would have used wire cable standing rigging.
  5. Get a replacement! That policy is one of their big selling points for me.
  6. Are you building from a kit or scratch? Which Skipjack? I may be able to help.
  7. Looked up the book A History of English Sea Ordnance, guess I'll have to pass on buying one. $300 to $400 US, too rich for my budget!
  8. Ships In Scale also sells a CD "Progressive Building" that has a practicum on their former editors build of the her.
  9. Thanks!!
  10. Here is an interesting video on adjust a band saw blade. He uses a technique different from any other I've seen.
  11. As long as the first outlet in the string is a GFI, the rest in the string will also be protected. The outlet GFIs are, if I remember correctly, much cheaper than the breaker ones.
  12. I used Vallejo black on my cannon diorama. I brushed it on, but airbrushing would have been better. you may be able to chemicaly blacken them, depending on the type of metal. There was a thread on this earlier.
  13. If you are going to used tools with capacitor start (many "full" sized tools), I have a tip. In my shop all the wiring to the outlets go through GFI outlets as the first ones in the string, for safety. If you have cap start motors, they can trip regular GFI units. Look for "Motor Rated" GFI units. They only cost a little more, and are designed for such motors. My Atlas lathe with a 1/2HP cap start motor, regularly tripped the regular GFIs. Dust collection units may also have cap start motors.
  14. Construction of a modern Newport replica. http://www.aviationmaintenance.edu/blog/great-war-aircraft-project/aim-chesapeake-ww1-nieuport-24-building-continues/
  15. Reklein; Thanks for the pictures. I looked at the MA pictures, and they left the insides of the ribs with the char, as did all the other buit pictures I could find.
  16. Here are a couple links to other builds, one the DR1 and the others of other Model Airways kits. http://www.lazuli.com/n_projects/n_dons_projects/n_fokker/index.html# http://www.modelshipbuilder.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?16206 http://www.ipmsgreatplains.org/camel.aspx I liked the way the DR1 biuld added some color to the model, but not too much. I have the Sopwith Camel, DR1, Newport, and Wright Flyer kits.
  17. Reklein: Did you remove the char inside the wing ribs? If so, how.
  18. I too have this kit, and will be following the build. Model Expo is very good at helping modelers, email or call them for an answer to the spar construction.
  19. If you have a coping/graphics place near you, see if you can get their discarded cardboard roll centers. They are great for storing rolled plans. I roll the plans print side out, they lay flatter when you go to use them.
  20. You can also use GIMP, a free graphics editing program.
  21. You can change the color of the render, by either: 1. Actually change the color of the lines in an object, such as the cannon. 2. Change the material the object is "made" from, such as changing the cannon to Brass, and the carriage to Wood. Both are simple and quick.
  22. I just finished on of Model Expo's Naval Cannon kits. Nice large size, and uses several of the technquies you need for a regular ship kit. I added hooks to the gun tackle ends, and used rope stropped, rather than metal stropped, blocks. The later were what was shown on all the drawings I could find. Model Expo promptly replaced some of the deck strips I messed up.
  23. Keep calling till you get them.
  24. How about ribbited? That's when you get a frog caught in your planking. :-)
  25. I had a thread "Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial" that focuses on SketchUp, but does have much info on designing parts for 3D printing. It might help you.
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