thibaultron
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Everything posted by thibaultron
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Model Expo also has praticums by Chuck for both the Phantom and Sultana kits. They are available as downloads online in the Documents tab of the kit page.
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Instead of masking the bands, you could paint the whole funnel "Funnel Color", then mask this and paint the bands. That might be simpiler than trying to mask the curved band surfaces.- 749 replies
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I think you have the right approach.
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Are the original plans paper or a file? Which ship/boat? I can probably help with more info. Can you post a jpg of the plan?
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Paint stripper may work, also I have heard of burning it off. You'd have to be careful not to burn up that small a wire, though.
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Finding the center of a dowel
thibaultron replied to KenW's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Machinists use several different tools for this. Look up squares in any metal working catalogs. One type is a Center Square. Another is a Combination Square. The usefulness of each type would depend on the dowel size. The Combination Square would work for all sizes, but can be a little awkward for really small dowels. Below is a picture of a Center Square.
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I know, but there was not enough deck space (length from hull to back of deck piece), for the gun to run all the way back. Maybe if I had not added the hooks, there might have been, but not with them on the tackle. The shorter breaching rope was a compromise, to make it look like the gun would not run over the tackle at the rear of the carriage. I preferred this compromise to not having the more noticeable tackle hooks present.
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Allanyed; Thanks for the information!! I finished the model yesterday, and choose to display it with the lines running off the diorama under tension, as if the men were pulling it back out for firing. I will keep this information for my next kit. Thanks, again.
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Another question. How were the free ends of the lines for the gun tackle secured. All the diagrams and plans I've been able to find, just show them going off the picture. The model shows them loose with the end Flemished, but that would leave the gun rolling around freely, and I'm sure the Flemished coils would be a tripping hazard.
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According to research on the internet. First set the parts out in the sun for a day. The parts are UV cured, and Shapeways does not always cure them long enough. Wash in hot soapy water, then rinse. Prime with the paint of your choice. Enamels or acrylic, I'm not sure if lacquer would damage it.
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I don't know if the book is correct, but the AOTS "USS Essex by Portia Takakjian, shows gun port with lids with rigging that would hold them at a similar angle to that used in the MS cannon diorama. These ports are below the weather deck, but with not much more height between the top of the port lid and the point that the lanyard enters the hull. As I already have the lid mounted, I'll just go with that setup, but use thread instead of the chain. It may not be 100% historically accurate, but it looks OK. Unlike the MS kit, though, I made hooks for the ends of the gun tackle to carriage rigging. The MS kit has the blocks served directly to the carriage eyebolts, but all the diagrams I found show the hooks. They also show the blocks as iron stroped, but the diagrams all show rope stroped, so I'll use thread for this too. Luckily there were just enough spare eyebolts and cut offs from the tails to make the hooks. Bough three different jeweler's beading and ring makers pliers for this and future jobs.
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The lid is already attached. Most observers would expect one to be there anyway, even if I know that it should not be there. I'll use rope instead of the chain. Forty years ago my hands shuck a lot less than they do now, and thread is easier than working with really small chain, besides I have another model whick that chain would be perfect for.
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P.S. I'm trying to model an American flavor look.
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I'm building a MS Smoothbore cannon model, and I have a question about the "rigging" used to raise the gun port cover/lid. The kit supplies chain for the external and through the bulworks portion of the rigging. This goes to the first block, and then line is used for the rest of the assembly. I looked at several AOT ship books and they show Lanyards (I assume rope) used for this. I'd think chains would wear away the paint and chew into the wood. So, finally, were chains ever used, or were rope leads more common?
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Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
thibaultron replied to SomethingIsFishy's topic in Plastic model kits
I have found wood dowels almost unuseable. For my Pyro skipjack build, I went through my entire collection of kits (good and bad name manuf.), and found maybe 3 straight dowels in the lot! I'm planning to make masts from square stock. I already made the bowsprit. Not your typical job, as the bowsprit on a skipjack curve downward toward the fore end. I made the sprit from a larger dowel that I squared (rectangulared?) up then cut in the curve, and shaped it. This is actually how the real bowsprits were made, the curve was cut into the spar, it was not bent into shape. I used the dowel as it was all I had at the time. For the mast, I have both basswood, and boxwood. I'll practice on the basswood, then make the final one out of boxwood. Unless the basswood mast looks really good, then I'll save the boxwood for another project. -
Tool Maker's Surface Gauge
thibaultron replied to jbelwood's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Another thing, if you are going to leave the plate glass in place permanently. If the surface under it is uneven, you can build a temperary frame around it, and pour in liquid RTV. It will flow under the glass, and fill the voids. Once it cures, remove the frame and trim the RTV. Now the glass is evenly supported under neath. -
Tool Maker's Surface Gauge
thibaultron replied to jbelwood's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Another good "Flat" surface, is a thick piece of plate glass. -
I'm building the Model Shipways Smoothbore Canon diorama, and have an esthetics question about the bulwark clamp and railing finish. The completed model photo on the box shows the bulwark clamp and railing stained, which I have done. The question is should I use matte or gloss varnish on these pieces? I've used matte on the deck, but gloss on the two stained pieces would make them stand out better, now that I've stained them. However would a matte finish be more realistic? The bulwark will be flat black. Should the bottom of the clamp also be painted black, or would it also have been "bright work" finish?
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You could call a museum curator, they should be able to give you some advise, or leads at least.
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I looked at the plans, they attach on the deckhouse right by the railing to the steps. I have a copy of the plans I bought for my Lindberg plastic Harriot Lane.
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looking at ships, what's the best boat for a newby?
thibaultron replied to shutter's topic in Wood ship model kits
In addition to the kits mentioned, I think there is another concideration for you to make. If you are interested in building a model, you are probably also interested in ship/boat history. A less involved kit is what you need, but one that fits your interests should also be a factor. See if there is a kit that fits that interest, or read the history of the ship/boat your are looking at, and see if it grabs your interest. For instance, I lived in Maryland for many years, and love the Chesapeake Bay, so many of my kits, and several plans are for boats from this area. Skipjacks, crabbing boats, and other fishing boat subjects are what I'm more interested in. This is not to say that I don't have kits or plans for others, I do, but I especially look for those kits when I see them available. You don't have to start with a wood kit either, there may be a plastic kit that you might want to build, to get started. I have both, and a well researched plastic kit can be as challenging. I'm slowly building a plastic skipjack model, with heavy mods to bring it to the correct configuration. I'm even doing 3D printing for some of the needed detailing. I also learned during my research that some features of the kit I thought were incorrect, were actually right, even though logic pointed otherwise. -
On the page for Model Shipways Phantom, in documentation section, is a praticum for the Phantom. The kit is also a solid hull model. It may help you with yours, and is much more detailed than MS's regular booklet. I recently bought the plans for the HL, to use in building my plastic PYRO/Lindberg version of her.
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Haven't abandoned this build, been working on shop. The major renovation is done, and I can start moving stuff back onto shelves. Then modeling can resume. I sent out the rigging details for printing, and they came last week. 2 of the 4 bowsprit braces were warped, but the other 2 look useable. I broke my magnifying lamp light bulb, so I can't take pictures right now, nor can I see how well they turned out.
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Plastic or wood kit?
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Source for belts for Dentist Drill
thibaultron replied to thibaultron's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Neptune; Thanks for the link! I've book marked the catagory, and will be getting some in the future!
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