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thibaultron

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  1. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Oldguydory in Swampscott Dory by Oldguydory - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters   
    Thank you. I looked at your scratch build. From you that's a compliment.
  2. Like
    thibaultron reacted to russ in Swampscott Dory by Oldguydory - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters   
    This is very nicely done. Good work. 
     
    Russ
  3. Like
  4. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Oldguydory in Swampscott Dory by Oldguydory - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters   
    Just working on the last details. It was fun. My first attempt.
  5. Like
    thibaultron reacted to ccoyle in Wren by amateur - FINISHED - 1:1- CARD   
    When I started out in card, I did quite a few card model fish, various species of trout drawn up by a gentleman in Japan. They were actually very good likenesses. Lots of subject matter available in the card world!
  6. Like
    thibaultron reacted to amateur in Wren by amateur - FINISHED - 1:1- CARD   
    Hi, 
     
    as a break (needed something to do while the glue of my other models is setting, I downloaded a cardmodel of a bird, a wren to be exact. (Www.johanscherft.nl).
     
    rather fun to build, and not difficult at all. The result is rather convincing: a life size bird, 16 parts, just from your own printer. I will just show the pics, no story needed (I think)
    to the 'kit'. I printed it on 120 grams paper, but 80 is better (as it is thinner, the edge problem is smaller, and it will curve more easily.
    The head: lines on my cutting mat are 1 cm apart
     
    the hull in variou stages of forming

    Start of the tail. The 5 additional feathers are still drying under some weight.
    Two wings. Flat and curved.
    There is a beak (somewhere on the grond now, but I willretreive it  )
     and two legs still to be cutted.
     Final assamblage will be tomorrow (I think) picture will follow for the gallery (untill the moderators remove it, as a wren is not a ship at all)
     
    Jan
     
  7. Like
    thibaultron reacted to wefalck in Rat line tension tool   
    "Others looking at your sagging rigging will just think you did a poor job." - quite likely so ... same problem when reproducing a roughly built prototype ...
     
    On running rigging, where loose and sagging looks more plausible even to uniniated bystanders, I have tried to reproduce the sag by wetting the line with fast-drying varnish and running a piece of wire along the line to maintain the catena (+/-) until the varnish has dried.
  8. Like
    thibaultron reacted to popeye the sailor in Kathryn by Mahuna - FINISHED - 1:32 - Skipjack Based on HAER Drawings   
    nice looking gears and spools......a lot crisper and cleaner that the supplied part you showed.  I'm currently working on a coaster.....the which aboard is fairly tough to find a decent picture of,  let along a functional view.    making the frame should be fun to watch   
  9. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Cathead in Guns of History Naval Smoothbore by Osmosis - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24   
    Very nice and a great resource for future builders.
  10. Like
    thibaultron got a reaction from Canute in Rat line tension tool   
    On a model getting that slight catenary on the shrouds to look right would be difficult. They are like the rest of the rigging, in real life all the rigging sagged some, even under load. On a model, assuming the thread did not curl, or misshape itself when not under load, getting that sag would be very difficult. You also have to consider the audience  Others looking at your sagging rigging will just think you did a poor job.
  11. Like
    thibaultron got a reaction from mtaylor in Rat line tension tool   
    On a model getting that slight catenary on the shrouds to look right would be difficult. They are like the rest of the rigging, in real life all the rigging sagged some, even under load. On a model, assuming the thread did not curl, or misshape itself when not under load, getting that sag would be very difficult. You also have to consider the audience  Others looking at your sagging rigging will just think you did a poor job.
  12. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Ferit in Rat line tension tool   
    Actually, I wanted to express the final appearance  of the shrouds that the rules of physics obliged more than the working principle of all that rigging system as wefalck says at his last topic; "Given their size and weight, it would be impossible to put so much tension on them that they were completely straight. There is always a slight catenary in them."
  13. Like
    thibaultron reacted to wefalck in Rat line tension tool   
    Given their size and weight, it would be impossible to put so much tension on them that they were completely straight. There is always a slight catenary in them.
  14. Like
    thibaultron reacted to popeye2sea in Rat line tension tool   
    The purpose of the lanyards was to be able to adjust the shrouds as needed.  There are occasions were additional tension was applied to counteract forces on the mast.  The foremost shroud was occasionally slacked off to allow for bracing the yard up more sharply.  Also, no matter how well set up the mast would 'work' or move to some extent.  There would always be some adjustment of the shrouds necessary at some point.  Conversely, shrouds set up too tightly might cause a mast to be sprung because it was too stiff and could not work. 
     
    Lanyards (with deadeyes or hearts) are employed because in a block and tackle the enormous forces involved would be concentrated on two points; the pins of the sheaves of the blocks.  Lanyards and deadeyes allow you to spread that load over six solid points not susceptible to breakage like a sheave pin.
    Regards,
  15. Like
    thibaultron reacted to BANYAN in Rat line tension tool   
    Hi Ferit, wasn't the purpose of the lanyards (apart from providing an elastic/flexible interface) to enable a purchase to pull the catenary/sag out of the shrouds and then use the lanyards to hold that tension?  
     
    cheers
     
    Pat
  16. Like
    thibaultron reacted to wefalck in Rat line tension tool   
    You are right in principle, but achieving a uniform catenary as it were for all the shrouds, stays and back stays would be difficult to achieve. In practical terms I would go for uniform straight standing rigging. If you don’t get the catenary right, the model will look messy and poorly executed.
  17. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Osmosis in Guns of History Naval Smoothbore by Osmosis - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24   
    Thank for all the wonderful comments. I picked up an older AL Bluenose kit off of Ebay for $39.00 a while back so I suppose that will be my next (really my first) "ship" build. But first I just ordered the Hobbyzone building slip so that will have to go together before I can start on the Bluenose.
     
    Thanks again and best regards.
     
     
  18. Like
    thibaultron reacted to pythagoras in Guns of History Naval Smoothbore by Osmosis - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24   
    Congratulations on a great job, Art.  Looking forward to your next build.
     
    Pythagoras (Tom)
  19. Like
    thibaultron reacted to robdurant in Guns of History Naval Smoothbore by Osmosis - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24   
    Wow! You've done a lovely job with this model. It makes a fascinating subject. I laughed out loud when I saw the bucket Glad the pictures were helpful.
  20. Like
    thibaultron reacted to fnkershner in Guns of History Naval Smoothbore by Osmosis - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24   
    I ordered the wax from MS. 1 order will last a life time. Once it is waxed I run it over either a light bulb or the warm shield of the workshop light. It doesn't take much heat to melt the wax into the line. I do this will all rigging. I have not yet had a chance to use any of Chuck's line so we will see if I need wax for his rope.
  21. Like
    thibaultron reacted to jud in Guns of History Naval Smoothbore by Osmosis - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24   
    Exceptional work, one of the better of this model I have seen on this site.
    jud
           
  22. Like
    thibaultron reacted to MEDDO in Guns of History Naval Smoothbore by Osmosis - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24   
    Outstanding work on this kit!
  23. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Tigersteve in Guns of History Naval Smoothbore by Osmosis - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24   
    Very well done. Can’t wait to see what’s next. 
    Steve
  24. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Osmosis in Guns of History Naval Smoothbore by Osmosis - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24   
    Well it has been a while but finally had some time to put in a couple of hours of work on this project.
     
    I would like to thank all those who have followed, commented on and liked this thread it is greatly appreciated. Also a special thanks to member robdurant who provided a great photo tour of the HMS Victory. I would encourage anyone who has not seen them to follow the link HMS Victory Photos as they provided most of the detail and ideas for this build.
     
    On to tonight's progress report
     

    Using a scrap piece of bass wood I started rough shaping.
     

    and more hacking
     

    and some sanding
     

    and more shaping
     

    Then some cussing. An hours work on what was shaping up to be a nice powder horn in the scrap pile. I tried to repair it but could not make it line up right so I might try again later.
     
    I decided to go with the rigging in the stowed configuration shown in the photos by robdurant. I thought it was a little different from all the other examples of this kit I have seen.
     

    And I think we can call this one finished. If you are wondering about the "period correct red bucket" follow the link at the beginning of this post.
     
    Again thanks to all and I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did.
     
     
     
     
  25. Like
    thibaultron reacted to Overworked724 in Sultana by Overworked724 (Patrick) – FINISHED - Model Shipways – Scale 1:64 – Solid Hull – First Wooden Model Ship   
    Made a few attempts at scratch building the wooden cleats...I think I could probably manage to make some decent ones given some additional time in improving my technique.  But I still have a limited skill set, and those bloody things are tiny...so decided to opt on the side of the leisure enjoyment of my build.  Will simply stay with the laser cut cleats for the remainder of the build and ignore (with extreme prejudice) the cast metal cleats.  This way I can ensure they are reproducible as well as save myself some aggravation in toiling with parts that are so small. 
     
    So - another deviation from Chuck's fantastic practicum.  Got some wooden 3mm and 5mm cleat (laser cut), as well as some 5mm shroud cleats (laser cut) - which was an afterthought and, frankly, a good idea.  They were cheap and came in a pack of like 40-50...so they should last me a good long while and can be used for other builds. 
     
    Moving on...and I do not feel like I cheated...but made a necessary modification to a severely dated kit. 
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