thibaultron

I can't answer the question but it may be possible to recut the threads in the nuts with the jewelers tap depending on what material the nuts are made of and how close you can get to matching the original thread.  I have done this with regular sized bolts and nuts when I could not get an exact match.  Can't guarantee it will work for you but it might be worth a try if all else fails.

Your .6MM thread is in reality 42.37 threads per inch and your 1MM thread is in reality 25.4 threads per inch. All threads have standard TPI or pitch per the machinist handbook, even sub 1MM threads. Chances are really good any nuts you buy will fit any external thread in the same class OD's. Unlike larger threads, where there may be a fine pitch and a course pitch, smaller threads only have 1 common pitch.
 
Paul

grsjax and Paul - thanks for your thoughts. The nuts would be brass, so maybe it would work to try to rethread them if necessary. Paul - the statement on the Otto Frei website about jeweler's threads being different from watchmaker or machinist threads is what worries me. If that's the case, it seems the thread pitch would be different even on the same size bolt for different types?
 
The other thing I've considered is faking it by buying slightly smaller nuts and drilling out the internal threads enough so they'd fit over the threads of the rod. I suspect no one could tell. But it would be nice to be able to say they were truly threaded, so that's what I'm shooting for.
 
Cheers -
John

Figured it out.
 
Man, this thing is a lifesaver. Thanks for the great idea.

Here  is an example of the Krylon Gold Foil paint on a whitte metal casting from the Steam Pumper that Ken Foran designed for Model Expo.  This was done with the rattle can.  The white metal casting was cleaned up a bit and then primed with Badger STYNLREZ white primer.  I can say with confidence that one can't tell this apart from a plated piece.
Kurt

Jerry,
 
You might want to have a look at the Krylon brand "foil" paints. I emphasise the "foil" in the name of the paint. They are a spray can.  Although i have recently acquired some, I have not used them yet myself, but fellow MSW member Ken Foran ("xken") has used them extensively in his exquisite brass model building (check out his book on this subject too). You will find a link to his book in his build log for Niagara. You might also wish to PM him for further advice.  Ken is also the kit designer for the Model Expo model of the Allerton Steam Pumper.
 
Hope this helps.

Jerry:
The Krylon foil paints are great - also got the tip to use them from Ken Foran.  I have decanted them from the spray can to use in my airbrushes and they are great that way too - better control than by the spray can.  I did use some decanted foil paint with a brush to touch up some small areas on a build and it worked OK for that too.  I don't know how it would be applied by brush to a larger area though.  One point on these paints - they are to be applied over a white primer undercoat.  I think it's more for the color than the sticking to the subject.
Kurt

It is a swivel blade. Sort of an Xacto on a shaft. They are used on vinyl cutters for example.

Today I made a light Box... or more correctly a light stand?
 
I read in TFFM that Greg uses a light box to inspect, mark and fine tune his joinery.
If it works for him I'm hoping it will help me.
 
This little project cost me next to nothing as I used scraps.
 
I taped, measured and laid out my cut lines and hole locations on the sheet of Plexiglas and onto the tape with a pencil.

 
Then I clamped the plexiglas down to my table and using my scroll saw and a plexiglas cutting blade I made my cuts.  You have to keep the saw moving or the plexiglas overheats and gums up. I cut about 1/8 inch outside the line.

 
I then clamped the plexiglas in my vise and using a very rough file I filed the cut edges down to the pencil line.

 
To diffuse the light shining from below I sanded the underside. Passed it quickly over my belt sanded.  Quickly so it doesn't overheat and make a mess.  Then I hand sanded in one direction with extremely rough sand paper. Finally I used 80 grit and sanded in four directions, one at a time.  First up and down, then across at 90 degrees, and finally diagonally (corner to corner). 

 
I drilled and counter drilled the plexiglas for the wood screws, cut two pieces of wood for the stands, marked off the screw holes using the plexiglas as the template and drilled pilot holes.  Screwed it all together.

 
I slide a LED puck light underneath and that was it... she was ready to use.

 
You can see it seems to do a great job of highlighting the imperfections.

 
Hope someone else finds this idea useful!

It is a swivel blade. Sort of an Xacto on a shaft. They are used on vinyl cutters for example.

For thin stock I found something that might be usable instead of a laser cutter. I just watched a video review of the new Circut "Explore" digital cutter. (unfortunately on a pay for viewing Model Railroading site, so I can't post a link). According to the video the modeler uses the new Cricut to cut up to 1/16" basswood for buildings for his layout with good accuracy and repeatability for multipule cuts. (to a few thousands)(press fit of the cutout back into the material). The new Ciricut can cut your design files, not just the caned routines that former models could. For say frames on small models and thin parts this might be a good machine. I found it for between $170 (used) and $230 (new) on the web. I'm downloading some YouTube videos, and will get back after viewing some of them.

For thin stock I found something that might be usable instead of a laser cutter. I just watched a video review of the new Circut "Explore" digital cutter. (unfortunately on a pay for viewing Model Railroading site, so I can't post a link). According to the video the modeler uses the new Cricut to cut up to 1/16" basswood for buildings for his layout with good accuracy and repeatability for multipule cuts. (to a few thousands)(press fit of the cutout back into the material). The new Ciricut can cut your design files, not just the caned routines that former models could. For say frames on small models and thin parts this might be a good machine. I found it for between $170 (used) and $230 (new) on the web. I'm downloading some YouTube videos, and will get back after viewing some of them.

Sorry that I didn't find this thread earlier. A few quick comments:
 
1. If you want to make a wooden model of a wooden ship, that's perfect, and don't let 3DP annoy you at all. Do what YOU want to do. But do avoid being a wood-ship chauvinist! Not all ships, nor their models, nor their MODELERS, are age-of-sail-ers, and not all of such parts are best whittled from sticks.
 
2. If you DO want to use 3DP, "too old" is no excuse! I'm pushing retirement age myself.
 
3. For the time being, DON'T waste time and money on any "affordable" desktop printer... the machines that can do work suitable for decent models have many many zeroes in their price tags. Go to a shop like Shapeways instead, let them take the depreciation on their capital investment.
 
 
BTW, here is my latest 3DP model, PT-61 (a late Elco 77 footer). In 1:24 scale, it's large enough for R/C, but this copy is for display only. The hull is wood, because sometimes wood just makes sense! (PT hulls are quite easy to build up with dual-diagonal planking).  But virtually everything else is printed, from the cabin to the weapons, and even the window glazing. 
 
Kurt likes to remind us that "if you have to hurry, it ain't a hobby". Well I had to hurry, as this was a commission, and tools like 3DP helped a lot. From the first laser cut frames to the final photos: 4 months. 
 
 
Pat M

I use a MakerBot 2x printer at work, and I'm impressed at what it can do, though the resolution is not appropriate for anything 1:48 scale and smaller. Eventually, the technology will easily be capable of producing every part needed - and it will likely all be available for free on the internet.
 
Many will want to build their models this way and a very large and creative community of modelers will design and share the very finest and most accurate parts. It will be a fascinating time for the hobby, with 3D Digital artists competing for the first to create and share the finest models for the printing community. Many will sell their 3D digital models.
 
However, I sincerely believe that it will not detract from the work of the dedicated hand-builders who seek the challenge of creating with real wood and metal.
 
3D printing will be a boone for the plastic builders (and a nightmare for plastic kit companies). Those who like to make sawdust and metal shavings will face the same old problems and reap the same rewards.

Check out a some videos for more on 3D printing....
 

 

 
 
 
.......Just sayin' ...!
 
Joe

I had masters (from which I will cast the battery in resin) for my Macedonian's guns 3D printed; 5 32 pdr carronades and 5 18 pdr Bloomfield pattern guns is 1:36 scale - $250  That, BTW, was the "discounted price" because a friend was getting a bunch of other items printed as well.  5 of each was a minimum order
 
A company that digitally scanned the Macedonian figurehead at the naval academy found me online and offered to 3D print one in 1:36 scale for me for a mere $250.
 
I'm very happy with the quality of the guns but this isn't sustainable at all for someone like me.  There's no way I'm going for that figure head, or anything else for that matter, and there's a lot of things I'd love work up in CAD and just print - those god-forsaken trailboards on Constellation, for instance.  At $5 a gun, I would have had them print the entire battery, and come back for something else - as it is, they aren't going to see me again.

 

 

Thank you all for your comments.
I finally found some time to complete this test. I got some Tamiya tape which seems to be identical to frog tape but as Kurt said Tamiya tape is thinner so much better for modelling purposes.
 
I used the plywood sheet from the previous trials to see how the tapes behave on painted surface. I also prepared a new plywood sheet that was primed and sanded to 400 grit. 
I did not include the ordinary masking tape as it has already proved terrible. I used this time Humbrol enamel applied with brush
 
Painted surface first
 

 
The Tamiya tape left an excellent line (upper edge of white)
 

 
but the electrician's tape bled (lower edge of white)
 

 
Next the painted surface where I also used the frog tape.
 

 
Same results really, Both Tamiya tapes were good with the wide frog tape showing some bleeding where it was not tucked down firmly
 

 
And the electric tape bled
 

 
Of note, the consistency of colour is much better when applied on primed vs just sealed wood
 

 
Bottom line: Never use ordinary masking tape or insulating tape, Tamiya tape is the way forward, try and prime your surfaces.
Masking film might be another good option.
 
Regards
Vaddoc
 
 
 

Thanks for the likes and comments, folks.    Here's the latest...
 
Well... my patience has run out with MM.  There will be no more tools for me bought from them.   If I can't fix any of the ones I've bought from them, it will be replaced by another manufacturer.   As I said previously, I sent an email (posted at the end of this post) on Sunday night.  5 days and no response.   I don't believe I was offensive, angry or mean. But no response, not even a "got your mail and we're looking into this" would have been acceptable. 
 
As for the tool in question... after discussion with the Admiral, she calmed me down and got me rational.  Rather than starting the whole process over, I'm hanging on to it.  I can upgrade when the laser tube dies to a larger power tube.   With what I'm using it for, it'll work.   I had to do mods to the mini-mill to get to work better and sometimes the devil you do know is better than the one you don't.
 
I'm not sure there really is a good solution to a hobby type cutter out there for what we do and under $3000 (US).  Or at least one that won't require a lot time and energy to set it up, climb up and over the learning curve, and get it properly tweaked.   This already has many of the mods that I'd have to source and go through anyway....  220 VAC power unit, for example.  I also know the weaknesses.  So I'll put my time and energy into resolving the issues I have left rather than starting over. 
 
Anyway... I won't recommend this tool to anyone because the tech support isn't there.  But if you do buy one, be forewarned.
 
Anyway, here's the email.... 
 
Hi,
I have a question and some observations on my LaserKnife.   Questions: 1)  Lenses... are there better lenses available or perhaps ones with different focal lengths?  I'll be cutting a variety of wood thicknesses from 1/64" up to possibly 1/4".  I've double and triple checked and cleaned the mirrors and I think the focus could be a bit better.   2) Is there a manual somewhere that has more detail on CorelLaser?  There's settings in there I have no idea what they are for.   3) The cooling water, is there a max temperature rise or a max temperature to watch out for?   Observations, 1)  The manual is a bit vague in areas like parts identification and mirror alignment.   2)  The lense in the cutting head seems to have been installed upside down.  It had the concave side up and the convex side down.  After Googling and reading, I find out that these should be the other way with the concave side down and the convex side up.  I got a finer cut when I did that.   Thank you. 

Thanks, Mark, for providing this initial review for us.  There simply is no substitute for someone providing information based on actual experience.
 
Here's hoping your dealings with Tech Support (NO excuse for the delay) and additional tweaking can bring the device reasonably close to your expectations.  My hat's off to you for testing the waters.

Since interest has been shown in this tool by many including myself, here goes a hopefully, full review.  I will preface this by saying that this tool is NOT for everyone.   To make it clear:  if you are expecting out-of-box performance from this, stop reading and go do something else.  I fear this is going to be rather long winded....
 
Background
My scroll saw skills leave a lot to be desired and for repetitive items like knees, beams and even cutting small pieces for carving is an issue.  So rather than stand in front of a scroll saw for hours and end up tossing 30-50% of the pieces into the scrap box, I thought about a laser cutter.  The so-called “hobby lasers” seem appealing.  Reasonably low power requirements, low costs, and relatively smaller size appeals to me.
 
Research
The caveats that I read about Laser Cutters and followed in the research are: 
Use a company in the country you are in or will provide support to you. Use a company that has been in business for more than a couple of years. I’ve looked at the imported China Lasers (~$500 US) but have found much wrong with them in the reviews.  Extra costs of dealing with an import agent to get the unit out of customs and shipped to you, generally mediocre quality in the assembly, and then there’s the normal software that comes with the these products.  Also dealing with a seller in China leaves you high and dry without support.   I discovered two being “used” here locally.  One is not working and hasn’t from the time he got it a few months ago.  He’s in the process of replacing the PC board to be compatible with better software and fixing some damaged items like a broken laser tube.  The other, I saw it work, and tried my hand but the software (MoshiDraw) is incredibly bad.  The owner was running it on an XP PC as it wouldn’t run consistently in Win7 even in compatibility mode. 
 
I looked at another higher priced unit (~$4000 US base price with accessories adding up rapidly).  The unit was high quality, made in the US with some Chinese parts including the main board.  It used  LaserDraw software and from what I saw, the performance was adequate.  But as I was unable to sit down and try the woods we use, I can’t give a full report on it.  The owners use basswood and thin veneers for creating dollhouses, model railway buildings, etc.  The output seemed of good quality but again, it was not the woods or sizes we use.   My observation is that this is basically a hobby machine upgraded to being a production type.
 
The one I’m testing is the Micro-Mark brand (~$2000 US).  It comes with a 30 day refund guarantee which, if I determine this isn’t what will work for me, I’ll return it.   I read their claims that this machine is built to their specifications (http://www.micromark.com/html_pages/misc/the-micro-mark-difference.pdf) .  I know that some of us (myself included) have issues with certain practices which I won’t go into.  I will say that I won’t buy ripped off equipment.  This unit doesn’t appear ripped off but an upgraded Chinese unit.
 
I did not consider anything more powerful than 40W.  Maybe I should have, but there's also a cost factor that goes with that.
 
Pre-Order
The unit uses CorelLaser as its cutting software using an industry standard HP Plotter Driver and also Corel Draw.  I downloaded the manual and documentation from MM.  I also ordered a copy of CorelDraw X6 from Amazon.   CorelLaser works only with CorelDraw above version 13 so I bought a shrink wrapped, new-in-the-box program for $150 US.  I would suggest you do your homework on this.  X7, the latest from Corel is a subscription based program.  In other words, you pay every month for it.  I prefer to have a CD in my drawer just in case….
 
I spent a week or so refreshing myself on CorelDraw as the last time I used it was Version 5… yeah… been a few years.
 
Unpacking and Set-Up
I received this is 3 boxes, well packed in foam.   Unpacking is pretty straight forward.  I would suggest that the air pump and water pump NOT be removed from their bubble wrap as there is nothing on these items to indicate what they are.  I wish that MM had put a photo or two in the instruction manual to identify parts.
 
One thing that is needed is a GFI socket.  I’m using  a GFI adapter in case I wish at some future date, to move the cutter to a different place.
 
Set-up is pretty straight forward following the manual.  The hardest part was figuring out the exhaust setup without cutting a hole in the wall of the house.  Also, do NOT secure the exhaust unit to the cutter with tape.  Use #10 X 3/4” self-tapping screws.  There’s  bit a misfit between these parts and the tape will not hold it securely in place.  
 
Here's photos of the unit and all the accessories...

 
Testing Started
I used the factory settings and followed the instructions in the manual for the recommended passes and power.  Not a happy camper using boxwood.  The little nameplate is 1/8” thick boxwood.  Took  9 passes to cut.  Lots of charring.
 

 
I discovered the mirrors were off.  MM instructions are vague in the extreme and need some serious re-writing to be useful.   I Googled and eventually found the information I needed here:  http://dck40.blogspot.com/
Using other web sources, I discovered that the lens in the cutting head was upside down…  WTF!!!! This really irritated me.
 
After  spending a day going back and forth between all three mirrors and adjusting them, and then resetting the focus for the wood, here’s the next round.
 

 
I’m continuing to test and massage things.  This will take time.   I’m able to cut 3/16” boxwwod which requires multiple passes but as yet, not I’ve not tried ¼”  boxwood.
 
Overall Observations.
The learning curve on this machine is a vertical, straight line.  These machines are still in their infancy and not mature.  Documentation is extremely sparse although there are forums out there for laser cutters, getting to the information you need for a particular type or model is a bit overwhelming and I consider myself a knowledgeable Googler.
There is no guidance on power settings or cutting speed to cut various types and thicknesses of wood.  Serious experimentation is required.
 
This machine is finicky in that all mirrors have to be perfectly adjusted to make use of the power and they have to be kept clean.  It is big, and sometimes smelly.  It’s not a production machine and the bucket of cooling water will have to be watched.  Running at “high” power (no definition from anyone on this or on the max water temperature) will shorten the life of the laser bulb.  There is a focus issue and I believe it could cut with a thinner kerf.  I’m trying to talk with MM about this….
 
The nameplate, I couldn’t even begin to cut something that tiny on the scroll saw.  It’s now almost ready for carving.  I do need to tweak the drawing some more to get a bit better spacing.  The anchor stocks I’ve done,  would have taken maybe 30 minutes on the scroll saw.  Including drawing time, this took approximately 1 hour and no wasted/ruined pieces.  However, all 4 are exactly alike and the bolt holes are ready to be cleaned of char and the bolts installed.  No fiddling with the drill press, either.  I have about 8 other parts ready for cutting and will do them as I go.   The kerf size and charring are still an issue.
 
I’ll say it again, it’s not for everyone.  If you have the time and ability to Google and research and then  to fiddle with it and get it running correctly and then to keep it running, it might be ok for you.  The manuals are skimpy at best and a bit of creative Googling will need to be done to help sort things out.  There’s still settings in CorelLaser that I have no idea what they do.  There is an alternative to CorelLaser called LaserCut 5.3.  I haven’t tried it yet and the documentation on-line seems rather sparse from what I’ve seen.
 
Thicknesses of 3/16” and up are tricky to work with.  There’s no tables or inputs from MM on this and the web is all over the place on using these “hobby” cutters.  However, most folks who have reviewed similar machines are using basswood and thin woods.  Doll houses and RR accessories seem to be the major uses along with etching for various things like signs, pendants, etc.   I need to have a conversation with MM on the lens… I think it needs to be higher quality and damn it... there’s no excuse to have it installed upside down. 
 
Lastly, tech support.  I emailed them late on a Sunday night about some issues.  I'm still waiting for answer after 3 days… 
Since we’re talking tech support, it’s worthwhile to note that tech support hours are very limited… Monday through Friday, from 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm, EDT.
 
I asked tech support before I ordered about using an extender cable and the answer was a simple: not recommended.  The unit comes with a 9 foot USB cable so I had to seriously rearrange my workshop to get it closer to the computer.   I’m testing a USB powered extender cable so I don’t have cabling running across the floor where it can be stepped on.   Jury is out on this.
 
The short answer for all this is: I wouldn’t recommend it unless you are tech savvy, not just with computers but also can tolerate a large learning curve.  The quality of the cuts could be a lot better.  Overall, it might better that if this tool is something you have to have then spend about double the cash and get a higher powered, non-China built laser cutter with some tech support.  The BossLaser that Chuck uses runs about $5000 and has the higher power to cut thicker woods and is, I believe, also suitable as a production machine.
 
I'll continue to test, adjust, fiddle, and tweak for now... 

One the sails are completed and mounted in place....then just spray light coat of clear matte spray.  Should do the trick nicely.
 
Actually I usually spray the entire model with clear matte.  It evens out all the colors and gives a more realistic sheen.
 
Tom

Tom's idea is a good one, but I'd try this out on a sample of fabric before you make a whole suit of sails, just in case it doesn't work!

I found this of good idea and technique.
David B
http://www.plasticmodelsworld.com/node/1109
 

In a nice coincidence I walked into the Hoboken Historical Museum yesterday (June 6th) and saw their exhibit on the Stephens family and low an behold a nice 1/48 scale model of the schooner yacht America, built by Abe Taubman of Jersey City, of the Taubman Plan Service, now in the collection of the Stephens Tech school of engineering. Nice surprise. Nobody at the museum cared when I explained I had just recently taken part in a discussion about the boom, which was depicted on this unrigged model.
Another possible boom configuration is that there could have been a shorterboom , one that was three or four feet shorter than the entire length of the foot of the sail. If the boom was only a bit shorter and did not reach all the way to the foot of the stay, there would be enough room for the sail to come all the way down, the boom shifted a few feet forward when striking the sail. You could have your cake and eat it too.

My late friend Neb, a rigging expert, was of the opinion that the course yard halliards were belayed and much of the fall cut off.  When needed, and these weren't lowered very often, the fall could be spliced back together in only a couple of minutes.  If it is 100 feet to the jeer blocks, trebles, you could have a quarter of a mile of line to deal with.