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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. Keith, Hate to tell you this, but you have another older brother, Stanly, born in '46. The benefit is he knows CAD and I don't! Oh!, and another thing, you might have long teeth, but mine are all falling out! Tom
  2. Keith, I'm not sure what a lot of money is, but I'd be proud to call you my brother! At 77, I'm the older brother, right? Tom
  3. I've made some executive decisions. The scale is going to be 1:32 (3/8" = 1'). The end product will loosely resemble a Bristol pilot cutter. Henry Ford once said, "Never complain; never explain". I shall follow that adage. Anyway, I've been sanding. One side done: Notice The detail at the bow; here's a close-up: I don't know how to clean it up without damaging the artwork.
  4. Having multiple photos vs. a set of plans is both a blessing and a curse. On the one hand the photos show you exactly what the ship is supposed to look like and what goes where. On the other hand the photos show all the details not included on the plans which creates an obligation. BTW, Keith how are your eyes holding up? Tom
  5. Gentlemen, Thanks for the “likes”. Druxey has been particularly helpful with the rigging and mast tops. Keith Aug has been inspirational in the fabrication of the gratings in the ship’s boat where the openings are just less than 1/64” square. The hull is planked in Apple and cherry for the rest of the darker wood. Couldn’t manage carving on the transom at 1:96; had to do substitutes. Tom
  6. Dear John & Keith, Thanks for your encouragement. Of course,I have no plans or photos to follow, so I’m just winging it! The first consideration is what scale is this thing!
  7. The original deck on this model has lines scored its length to simulate decking. I'm going to replace that with individual planks, and I've got a piece of African Boxwood that I'd like to use. It has a yellowish cast to it, and is the non-distinct tight grain that is characteristic of boxwood.
  8. I was given this hull by my uncle and asked to turn it into a display model. It was clearly intended to be a sloop. But how long? I'm thinking a daysailer; just a cockpit. Uncle wants a gaff rig. I have tried unsuccessfully to get these photos in the right order. Not my fault! Tom
  9. Obviously, there's been no formal log on this build. Nevertheless, it's done. Final photos below:
  10. Chris! Just got my copy of Speedy. It seems like I ordered it yesterday, so I have this thought: We'll call you Speedy (maybe even Sir Speedy {we'll have to talk to the Queen about that}). Which means the ship is named after you! Anyway, thanks for the wonderful service. Tom
  11. This thing is going to be fantastic! BTW, Chris, I don't know what you are using for plans, but my source was devoid of pin rails at the base of the masts, so I had to add them to provide for proper flow of lines. What will you do? Tom
  12. I'm with Glenn on the subject of mouldings. Provide the strip and a drawing of the profile. Let it go and move on to the next issue! Tom
  13. Chris, Sphynx has molding (moulding?) strips along the hull which Alex has done nicely in his version which is at a larger scale. Are you able to provide such detail in the kit? Tom
  14. Coming late to this conversation, as usual, but I've been building a model of the Sphynx class frigates in 1:96 scale. I'm trying to keep the overall length of the model to a reasonable size. At 1:96 the overall length from jibboom to transom is a bout 2 feet. I started out at 1:64 and soon realized that there would be few places in a home that could accommodate the length. In any case, I find the hull lines much more pleasing than the Swan class for about the same bang for your buck. Tom
  15. I'm going to crash this party and suggest that the end of the line, after it goes thru the second half of the double block is wound around the lashing between the two blocks and made fast there. Tom
  16. I built this kit several years ago for a friend who had bought the kit; opened the box; and decided it was beyond his ability. It ends up being a nice product and a decent size for home display. And, Richard, from what I can see, so far, so good! Tom
  17. You have been busy. Sorry to have missed the journey between hull and now. I'm also wondering about the materials you use to get such crisp results in a small scale. Also, given those hull lines, does she roll a lot?
  18. Alex, Great to hear from you again! I'll buy your description. Some of the replies don't seem to recognize the 20 gun Sphynx class frigate. Aside from that, how is it going? I bought your plan and have a version of the class, albeit in 1:96 scale (half your size), so I can't do all the detail that you have done. We'd love to see how you are progressing. Tom
  19. I'm currently building a model of a Sphynx class frigate. This is a 20 gun ship, so it's a small frigate, but a frigate nevertheless. As an aid, I'm referring to David Antscherl's book, Rigging A Sixth Rate Sloop of 1767-1780. (volume IV). In terms of size, armament, rigging these ships are very similar, so why is one called a frigate and the other a sloop?
  20. Harold Underhill built a model of a BRIG, Leon, and described the construction in a 2 volume work entitled Plank-On-Frame Models first published in 1958. Your grandfather's work is identical except the foremast would need 5 yardarms to complete. Is it possible that he hadn't finished his work? Leon was a real ship, built in Norway in 1880 (the model is flying a Norwegian flag). Underhill doesn't give much history of the vessel, so I can't help you much there. Judging from the pictures you've supplied, I'd say your grandfather knew what he was doing! First rate work. Also, it looks like it's 2-2.5 feet long? Are you sure you have no place to display it. How about hung from the wall, like a picture? Tom Black
  21. It certainly has, and very well laid out, too. Just finished the standing rigging. Here's a progress photo:
  22. I don't know how critical your dimensions need to be, but check at www.onlinemetals.com
  23. Greg, I finally woke up and read the note on page 219 to see that my question was answered there. However, if all this communication here has alerted others to this magnificent volume, and something that should be owned by all, then we're ahead of the game! That you've laid out 3 construction methods POF, POB and lift and in such a way that makes it easy to follow regardless of the method chosen is a phenomenal effort on your part. We don't do knighthoods in this country, but maybe you'd consider a sainthood? Tom
  24. Great video on the railing. Not only good ideas, but also excellent camera work and editing. Hollywood next stop! And a fantastic shop! Lots of good stuff in there! But what's with the broken glass of water (gin, rum?). Can't somebody buy you a new one for your birthday? Tom
  25. I bought the first volume of this build with the goal of starting it after my current project. I had thought that I would reduce the scale to 1:64, but after seeing the carvings, maybe not. I sure hope the instructions on how to achieve a passable result are well documented, otherwise I'm going to be on David's doorstep for instruction! Tom
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