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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. TBlack
    Chris, Sphynx has molding (moulding?) strips along the hull which Alex has done nicely in his version which is at a larger scale. Are you able to provide such detail in the kit? Tom
  2. TBlack
    Coming late to this conversation, as usual, but I've been building a model of the Sphynx class frigates in 1:96 scale. I'm trying to keep the overall length of the model to a reasonable size. At 1:96 the overall length from jibboom to transom is a bout 2 feet. I started out at 1:64 and soon realized that there would be few places in a home that could accommodate the length. In any case, I find the hull lines much more pleasing than the Swan class for about the same bang for your buck. Tom
  3. TBlack
    I'm going to crash this party and suggest that the end of the line, after it goes thru the second half of the double block is wound around the lashing between the two blocks and made fast there. Tom
  4. TBlack
    I built this kit several years ago for a friend who had bought the kit; opened the box; and decided it was beyond his ability. It ends up being a nice product and a decent size for home display. And, Richard, from what I can see, so far, so good! Tom
  5. TBlack
    You have been busy. Sorry to have missed the journey between hull and now. I'm also wondering about the materials you use to get such crisp results in a small scale. Also, given those hull lines, does she roll a lot?
  6. TBlack
    Alex, Great to hear from you again! I'll buy your description. Some of the replies don't seem to recognize the 20 gun Sphynx class frigate. Aside from that, how is it going? I bought your plan and have a version of the class, albeit in 1:96 scale (half your size), so I can't do all the detail that you have done. We'd love to see how you are progressing. Tom
  7. TBlack
    I'm currently building a model of a Sphynx class frigate. This is a 20 gun ship, so it's a small frigate, but a frigate nevertheless. As an aid, I'm referring to David Antscherl's book, Rigging A Sixth Rate Sloop of 1767-1780. (volume IV). In terms of size, armament, rigging these ships are very similar, so why is one called a frigate and the other a sloop?
  8. TBlack
    Harold Underhill built a model of a BRIG, Leon, and described the construction in a 2 volume work entitled Plank-On-Frame Models first published in 1958. Your grandfather's work is identical except the foremast would need 5 yardarms to complete. Is it possible that he hadn't finished his work? Leon was a real ship, built in Norway in 1880 (the model is flying a Norwegian flag). Underhill doesn't give much history of the vessel, so I can't help you much there. Judging from the pictures you've supplied, I'd say your grandfather knew what he was doing! First rate work. Also, it looks like it's 2-2.5 feet long? Are you sure you have no place to display it. How about hung from the wall, like a picture? Tom Black
  9. TBlack
    It certainly has, and very well laid out, too. Just finished the standing rigging. Here's a progress photo:
  10. TBlack
    I don't know how critical your dimensions need to be, but check at www.onlinemetals.com
  11. TBlack
    Greg, I finally woke up and read the note on page 219 to see that my question was answered there. However, if all this communication here has alerted others to this magnificent volume, and something that should be owned by all, then we're ahead of the game! That you've laid out 3 construction methods POF, POB and lift and in such a way that makes it easy to follow regardless of the method chosen is a phenomenal effort on your part. We don't do knighthoods in this country, but maybe you'd consider a sainthood? Tom
  12. TBlack
    Great video on the railing. Not only good ideas, but also excellent camera work and editing. Hollywood next stop! And a fantastic shop! Lots of good stuff in there! But what's with the broken glass of water (gin, rum?). Can't somebody buy you a new one for your birthday? Tom
  13. TBlack
    I bought the first volume of this build with the goal of starting it after my current project. I had thought that I would reduce the scale to 1:64, but after seeing the carvings, maybe not. I sure hope the instructions on how to achieve a passable result are well documented, otherwise I'm going to be on David's doorstep for instruction! Tom
  14. TBlack
    Michael, At least the wheels weren't too small! I'm always amazed at the amount of inventory you have that can be cycled into a project. Tom
  15. TBlack
    Are you currently trying to work on a specific model and at what scale? We've all been there! Tom
  16. TBlack
    Oh! THAT'S why my models all skew to the port. Thanks ever so! Still, my point was that .008" may not be noticed and buying pre-cut 1/32" is a lot easier that buying a thickness sander. Tom
  17. TBlack
    1mm = .47 inches; 1/32" = .45 inches. If you're not too fussy, you can buy 1/32" stock pre-cut. Cherry is a good choice for a darker hull, or Chuck P. sells 1/32" Alaskan Yellow Cedar for a lighter hull. Tom
  18. TBlack
    Me too; very luxurious. I've got some good English tea that I got for Xmas that I can contribute! Is it getting cold up there on the plains yet? Tom
  19. TBlack
    Be aware there are two kinds of Q-tips. The older ones where the central rod is made of some kind of pressed paper product and the newer ones where the rod is made of hollow plastic tubing. The latter will break apart if you exert any kind of pressure while the former will just bend. Using the plastic ones that constantly break is very frustrating! The picture shows the effect of Q-tips and water, sort of. Anyway, it made a big difference.
  20. TBlack
    Thanks, David. Alex's rigging plan is hard to follow. I suspect he thinks I already know the run of things. Lees is fine if you want to know how a particular line/stay is attached, but not so good for an overall picture (like how many eye bolts to attach to the deck). I've sent away for your volume on rigging the Swan class ship in hopes that it may help me with some of the detail (I've had considerable success with your previous publications). Tom
  21. TBlack
    Thanks, Druxey. I never really went away; I just haven't done much posting. I looked at Longridge and my reading is that these pendants just hang there until needed. Nothing is immediately attached to them? TB
  22. TBlack
    Been a while since I posted here (like 5 years!). Fast up-date: After putting the bulkheads in place (see first picture), I realized that the model would be too big for my son's house. So I put it aside and started all over again at a 1:96 scale which should produce a model about 2 feet long. That smaller scale prohibits my attempts at any small detail, but the finished product is a reasonable facsimile of a Sphynx class frigate. Anyway, I need help/advice. I'm working off of Alex Matvijets plans which I got through Chuck P. The rigging plan shows slings at the top of the fore, main and mizzen, and again at the top of the fore top and main top. James Lees says they are supposed to be there, but he never tells you what they are for. I know somebody here has the answer.
  23. TBlack
    Siol, In the upper right hand corner of the home page there is a box that says "search". Type in "constructo victory" and the other logs (entries) about your model show up. I didn't look at any any of them. But perhaps your question is answered in one of the logs. Tom
  24. TBlack
    I've got plenty of elastic bands, so that part should be easy. I also understand about the hold-down clamp. The buggers do have a way of trying to rise up. Using the mill does give you the micro-adjustment that I like,. I was impressed with your use of it to cut bulkhead slots for Altair. Another K.A. revelation! Tom
  25. TBlack
    Keith, a fabulous idea, and typical of your ingenuity. Thanks for sharing; I'm going to build me one! Tom

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