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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. TBlack
    Keith, You've been a wonderful inspiration and source of unique ideas for me, so I am intrigued with your "thickness sander". But I can't see how it works from the pictures that you've posted. I've been using a sanding drum in the drill press which sort of works, but maybe your idea is better? Tom
  2. TBlack
    I could only find one Canadian distributor in Ontario. Looks like internet/mail order is your only choice. TB
  3. TBlack
    Great! Thanks Chris; got my patent this morning. You're in violation. As royalty. I'll take all the 1/32" pear you can crank out! Hugs, TB
  4. TBlack
    Chris, not a bad idea. I might copy. It's not patented is it? Sawdust must be a problem. Tom
  5. TBlack
    Simply incredible!
  6. TBlack
    Let's number your circles 1-8, left to right. It looks like circles 3,4,6,7 those lines all go to a belaying pin at those racks. Circles 1,2,5,8 all refer to jib/staysail sheets. Are you going to put sails on your model? If not, then don't worry about the sheets, 'cause you won't have anything to attach them to. If you are, those are probably blocks attached to the deck to give the sheet a fair run.
  7. TBlack
    Michael, with reference to your comment #666 above, and just for the record, I can remember, during my log of Vinalhaven, that you would stop doing your projects and make drawings/illustrations to help me with mine. So I would respectfully suggest that your dedication to and inspiration for this group is most remarkable (in other words, take the bow!) BTW, that lamp is going together with incredible speed. Tom
  8. TBlack
    I've run out of superlative words to describe what I see when I visit these pages, but I'm with Kurt in desiring a pilgrimage to Edmonton. And BTW, how do you thin down leather? Tom
  9. TBlack
    Well, Keith, you certainly minimized waste. It's a beautiful picture as is; almost a shame to cut it up!
  10. TBlack
    Keith, That looks like a lot of filing and cutting to shape the blade; how are your fingers holding up? RE: staysail tacking: back in the old days (1950's) I spent summers on an Alden schooner that came with a fisherman's staysail (Quadrilateral between main and fore above the foresail) and we had to lower it and rerig when coming about, if that's any help. Tom
  11. TBlack
    Joe, I'm with you on the learning curve. I did get the rotary table and angle table and the slitting saw. The former because Danny told me to, the latter because KeithAug showed how to use it in building bulkheads with great precision. I have used the machine in rudimentary operations, but I've also made some cannon carriage sides in 1:96 using the DRO feature with great success. If this machine were a woman, I'd marry her! Tom
  12. TBlack
    Joe, Interesting coincidence, I followed along with your discussion because I also was in the market. And I came to the same conclusions as you did. I got the 5410 DRO, as I like to deal in millimeters. The DRO is a great attachment and very accurate; a huge addition for precision! Tom
  13. TBlack
    Bob, I've been quietly following along on your build. I feel compelled to come out of the shadows and remark on your wonderful workmanship, and, as I recall, without the benefit of power tools! The joinery is fantastic. Tom
  14. TBlack
    Keith, I'm looking at your "sketches" and I'm convinced that you have an engineering background; most of us don't do such detailed drawings . And I will reiterate what I wrote before: we need to package up this log and save it for other budding shipwrights. Tom
  15. TBlack
    I'd agree with the comments that suggest the stand will not produce really accurate results. Suppose you're trying to make a pin rack for your belaying pins; the holes have to be evenly spaced and all in line. Can't do it with this appliance. If your tolerances are broader and you feel that with rope coils over the belaying pins nobody will see slight misalignments, the stand will do the job. I've had one for years and still use it, but I line everything up before hand; mark where I want the hole; turn on the dremel, and there's enough slop in the stand that the torque of the drill throws it out of alignment. Tom
  16. TBlack
    I've decided that there are 2 kinds of logs on this site. There are those that show us what the builder has done and there are those that show us not only what the builder has done, but how he/she did it. I think this log needs to be especially preserved not only for the approach that Keith takes to solve problems but also as an inspiration for the rest of us to try it. And, Keith, I'm going to be in Coventry in Oct., but I guess that's quite a long way from Sussex; otherwise, I would visit you in a minute. Tom
  17. TBlack
    Difficult and sudden news. I certainly enjoyed Bob's contributions, insight and positive attitude. Darnit! TB
  18. TBlack
    Well, darnit! Kat never offered me a 15% discount (I'm 74). But I'm certainly happy with the product. It's giving me an opportunity to be a lot more precise. TB
  19. TBlack
    Joe, As the modern folks say, "My bad". In the search box put in "schooner Altair". Tom
  20. TBlack
    Joe, Take a look at Keith's log (Altair); his entry #9 on the first page shows how he gets accurate cuts with the mill in producing bulkheads for his model. I need to try that, and while I have zero experience with a mill, I think I can do what Keith does. I did get the mill equipped with the 10,000 RPM pulley set, as several folks here thought it might make smoother cuts in wood. I also got the accessory set which includes end mills (I think 2 flute). I suspect I'm going to have to augment them with 3 or 4 flute end mills. I'll let you know if I think all this is worth it. Tom
  21. TBlack
    Joe, I've been tagging along on your coattails with the same question about the appropriate mill. As a result of your inquiries, I've just ordered a Sherline with a rotary table and tilt table (thanks Danny). And if you have been following KeithAug's Altair build, you've seen his unique way of using a slitting saw in the mill. So I thought I'd should get a slitting saw set-up as well. Tom
  22. TBlack
    Thanks Danny; I'll do it. But one more thought: 2 flutes or 4 flutes on the end mill? I'll be working in brass and hardwood. Tom
  23. TBlack
    I agree with you, Thistle, lots of good advice. I was going to buy a rotary table and an angle bracket to hold it vertically, but I'm reading that the tilting table is a better idea? I'm not sure how I would use that feature, but if Dan thinks it's a good idea, ok. Will that mean that I can build models like Dan does? Tom
  24. TBlack
    Dear all, This has been a very helpful conversation; thank you Thistle for starting it. It does bring up an interesting point though: at what spindle speed can you cut hardwood cleanly? And does the Sherline get there? Tom
  25. TBlack
    You and I are in the same boat: owners of a unimat lathe and looking for a suitable mill. I had focused on the weight of the machine. I think the sherline comes in at around 100 lbs. while the German and Chinese machines are considerably heavier than that....more machine than I need? I'll be interested in what others here think. Tom

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