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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. TBlack
    Michael, At least the wheels weren't too small! I'm always amazed at the amount of inventory you have that can be cycled into a project. Tom
  2. TBlack
    Are you currently trying to work on a specific model and at what scale? We've all been there! Tom
  3. TBlack
    Oh! THAT'S why my models all skew to the port. Thanks ever so! Still, my point was that .008" may not be noticed and buying pre-cut 1/32" is a lot easier that buying a thickness sander. Tom
  4. TBlack
    1mm = .47 inches; 1/32" = .45 inches. If you're not too fussy, you can buy 1/32" stock pre-cut. Cherry is a good choice for a darker hull, or Chuck P. sells 1/32" Alaskan Yellow Cedar for a lighter hull. Tom
  5. TBlack
    Me too; very luxurious. I've got some good English tea that I got for Xmas that I can contribute! Is it getting cold up there on the plains yet? Tom
  6. TBlack
    Be aware there are two kinds of Q-tips. The older ones where the central rod is made of some kind of pressed paper product and the newer ones where the rod is made of hollow plastic tubing. The latter will break apart if you exert any kind of pressure while the former will just bend. Using the plastic ones that constantly break is very frustrating! The picture shows the effect of Q-tips and water, sort of. Anyway, it made a big difference.
  7. TBlack
    Thanks, David. Alex's rigging plan is hard to follow. I suspect he thinks I already know the run of things. Lees is fine if you want to know how a particular line/stay is attached, but not so good for an overall picture (like how many eye bolts to attach to the deck). I've sent away for your volume on rigging the Swan class ship in hopes that it may help me with some of the detail (I've had considerable success with your previous publications). Tom
  8. TBlack
    Thanks, Druxey. I never really went away; I just haven't done much posting. I looked at Longridge and my reading is that these pendants just hang there until needed. Nothing is immediately attached to them? TB
  9. TBlack
    Been a while since I posted here (like 5 years!). Fast up-date: After putting the bulkheads in place (see first picture), I realized that the model would be too big for my son's house. So I put it aside and started all over again at a 1:96 scale which should produce a model about 2 feet long. That smaller scale prohibits my attempts at any small detail, but the finished product is a reasonable facsimile of a Sphynx class frigate. Anyway, I need help/advice. I'm working off of Alex Matvijets plans which I got through Chuck P. The rigging plan shows slings at the top of the fore, main and mizzen, and again at the top of the fore top and main top. James Lees says they are supposed to be there, but he never tells you what they are for. I know somebody here has the answer.
  10. TBlack
    Siol, In the upper right hand corner of the home page there is a box that says "search". Type in "constructo victory" and the other logs (entries) about your model show up. I didn't look at any any of them. But perhaps your question is answered in one of the logs. Tom
  11. TBlack
    I've got plenty of elastic bands, so that part should be easy. I also understand about the hold-down clamp. The buggers do have a way of trying to rise up. Using the mill does give you the micro-adjustment that I like,. I was impressed with your use of it to cut bulkhead slots for Altair. Another K.A. revelation! Tom
  12. TBlack
    Keith, a fabulous idea, and typical of your ingenuity. Thanks for sharing; I'm going to build me one! Tom
  13. TBlack
    Keith, You've been a wonderful inspiration and source of unique ideas for me, so I am intrigued with your "thickness sander". But I can't see how it works from the pictures that you've posted. I've been using a sanding drum in the drill press which sort of works, but maybe your idea is better? Tom
  14. TBlack
    I could only find one Canadian distributor in Ontario. Looks like internet/mail order is your only choice. TB
  15. TBlack
    Great! Thanks Chris; got my patent this morning. You're in violation. As royalty. I'll take all the 1/32" pear you can crank out! Hugs, TB
  16. TBlack
    Chris, not a bad idea. I might copy. It's not patented is it? Sawdust must be a problem. Tom
  17. TBlack
    Simply incredible!
  18. TBlack
    Let's number your circles 1-8, left to right. It looks like circles 3,4,6,7 those lines all go to a belaying pin at those racks. Circles 1,2,5,8 all refer to jib/staysail sheets. Are you going to put sails on your model? If not, then don't worry about the sheets, 'cause you won't have anything to attach them to. If you are, those are probably blocks attached to the deck to give the sheet a fair run.
  19. TBlack
    Michael, with reference to your comment #666 above, and just for the record, I can remember, during my log of Vinalhaven, that you would stop doing your projects and make drawings/illustrations to help me with mine. So I would respectfully suggest that your dedication to and inspiration for this group is most remarkable (in other words, take the bow!) BTW, that lamp is going together with incredible speed. Tom
  20. TBlack
    I've run out of superlative words to describe what I see when I visit these pages, but I'm with Kurt in desiring a pilgrimage to Edmonton. And BTW, how do you thin down leather? Tom
  21. TBlack
    Well, Keith, you certainly minimized waste. It's a beautiful picture as is; almost a shame to cut it up!
  22. TBlack
    Keith, That looks like a lot of filing and cutting to shape the blade; how are your fingers holding up? RE: staysail tacking: back in the old days (1950's) I spent summers on an Alden schooner that came with a fisherman's staysail (Quadrilateral between main and fore above the foresail) and we had to lower it and rerig when coming about, if that's any help. Tom
  23. TBlack
    Joe, I'm with you on the learning curve. I did get the rotary table and angle table and the slitting saw. The former because Danny told me to, the latter because KeithAug showed how to use it in building bulkheads with great precision. I have used the machine in rudimentary operations, but I've also made some cannon carriage sides in 1:96 using the DRO feature with great success. If this machine were a woman, I'd marry her! Tom
  24. TBlack
    Joe, Interesting coincidence, I followed along with your discussion because I also was in the market. And I came to the same conclusions as you did. I got the 5410 DRO, as I like to deal in millimeters. The DRO is a great attachment and very accurate; a huge addition for precision! Tom
  25. TBlack
    Bob, I've been quietly following along on your build. I feel compelled to come out of the shadows and remark on your wonderful workmanship, and, as I recall, without the benefit of power tools! The joinery is fantastic. Tom

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