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Everything posted by TBlack
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Advice needed - model ship made by my Grandad
TBlack replied to Stee F's topic in New member Introductions
Harold Underhill built a model of a BRIG, Leon, and described the construction in a 2 volume work entitled Plank-On-Frame Models first published in 1958. Your grandfather's work is identical except the foremast would need 5 yardarms to complete. Is it possible that he hadn't finished his work? Leon was a real ship, built in Norway in 1880 (the model is flying a Norwegian flag). Underhill doesn't give much history of the vessel, so I can't help you much there. Judging from the pictures you've supplied, I'd say your grandfather knew what he was doing! First rate work. Also, it looks like it's 2-2.5 feet long? Are you sure you have no place to display it. How about hung from the wall, like a picture? Tom Black -
HMS Sphynx by TBlack - 1:64
TBlack replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
It certainly has, and very well laid out, too. Just finished the standing rigging. Here's a progress photo: -
I am searching for brass tube
TBlack replied to Fresh water sailor's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I don't know how critical your dimensions need to be, but check at www.onlinemetals.com -
Speedwell 1752 by druxey - a work in progress
TBlack replied to druxey's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Greg, I finally woke up and read the note on page 219 to see that my question was answered there. However, if all this communication here has alerted others to this magnificent volume, and something that should be owned by all, then we're ahead of the game! That you've laid out 3 construction methods POF, POB and lift and in such a way that makes it easy to follow regardless of the method chosen is a phenomenal effort on your part. We don't do knighthoods in this country, but maybe you'd consider a sainthood? Tom -
Great video on the railing. Not only good ideas, but also excellent camera work and editing. Hollywood next stop! And a fantastic shop! Lots of good stuff in there! But what's with the broken glass of water (gin, rum?). Can't somebody buy you a new one for your birthday? Tom
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Speedwell 1752 by druxey - a work in progress
TBlack replied to druxey's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I bought the first volume of this build with the goal of starting it after my current project. I had thought that I would reduce the scale to 1:64, but after seeing the carvings, maybe not. I sure hope the instructions on how to achieve a passable result are well documented, otherwise I'm going to be on David's doorstep for instruction! Tom -
A small Crewe workhorse called Pet
TBlack replied to michael mott's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Michael, At least the wheels weren't too small! I'm always amazed at the amount of inventory you have that can be cycled into a project. Tom -
Thin hull planking
TBlack replied to Gerarddm's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Oh! THAT'S why my models all skew to the port. Thanks ever so! Still, my point was that .008" may not be noticed and buying pre-cut 1/32" is a lot easier that buying a thickness sander. Tom -
Thin hull planking
TBlack replied to Gerarddm's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
1mm = .47 inches; 1/32" = .45 inches. If you're not too fussy, you can buy 1/32" stock pre-cut. Cherry is a good choice for a darker hull, or Chuck P. sells 1/32" Alaskan Yellow Cedar for a lighter hull. Tom -
Me too; very luxurious. I've got some good English tea that I got for Xmas that I can contribute! Is it getting cold up there on the plains yet? Tom
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Be aware there are two kinds of Q-tips. The older ones where the central rod is made of some kind of pressed paper product and the newer ones where the rod is made of hollow plastic tubing. The latter will break apart if you exert any kind of pressure while the former will just bend. Using the plastic ones that constantly break is very frustrating! The picture shows the effect of Q-tips and water, sort of. Anyway, it made a big difference.
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HMS Sphynx by TBlack - 1:64
TBlack replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Thanks, David. Alex's rigging plan is hard to follow. I suspect he thinks I already know the run of things. Lees is fine if you want to know how a particular line/stay is attached, but not so good for an overall picture (like how many eye bolts to attach to the deck). I've sent away for your volume on rigging the Swan class ship in hopes that it may help me with some of the detail (I've had considerable success with your previous publications). Tom -
HMS Sphynx by TBlack - 1:64
TBlack replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Thanks, Druxey. I never really went away; I just haven't done much posting. I looked at Longridge and my reading is that these pendants just hang there until needed. Nothing is immediately attached to them? TB -
HMS Sphynx by TBlack - 1:64
TBlack replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Been a while since I posted here (like 5 years!). Fast up-date: After putting the bulkheads in place (see first picture), I realized that the model would be too big for my son's house. So I put it aside and started all over again at a 1:96 scale which should produce a model about 2 feet long. That smaller scale prohibits my attempts at any small detail, but the finished product is a reasonable facsimile of a Sphynx class frigate. Anyway, I need help/advice. I'm working off of Alex Matvijets plans which I got through Chuck P. The rigging plan shows slings at the top of the fore, main and mizzen, and again at the top of the fore top and main top. James Lees says they are supposed to be there, but he never tells you what they are for. I know somebody here has the answer. -
Siol, In the upper right hand corner of the home page there is a box that says "search". Type in "constructo victory" and the other logs (entries) about your model show up. I didn't look at any any of them. But perhaps your question is answered in one of the logs. Tom
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I've got plenty of elastic bands, so that part should be easy. I also understand about the hold-down clamp. The buggers do have a way of trying to rise up. Using the mill does give you the micro-adjustment that I like,. I was impressed with your use of it to cut bulkhead slots for Altair. Another K.A. revelation! Tom
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Keith, a fabulous idea, and typical of your ingenuity. Thanks for sharing; I'm going to build me one! Tom
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Keith, You've been a wonderful inspiration and source of unique ideas for me, so I am intrigued with your "thickness sander". But I can't see how it works from the pictures that you've posted. I've been using a sanding drum in the drill press which sort of works, but maybe your idea is better? Tom
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Swan Morton chisels and blades
TBlack replied to shortgrass's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I could only find one Canadian distributor in Ontario. Looks like internet/mail order is your only choice. TB -
Home made thicknessing sander if
TBlack replied to Cabbie's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Great! Thanks Chris; got my patent this morning. You're in violation. As royalty. I'll take all the 1/32" pear you can crank out! Hugs, TB -
Home made thicknessing sander if
TBlack replied to Cabbie's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Chris, not a bad idea. I might copy. It's not patented is it? Sawdust must be a problem. Tom -
Help interpreting a belaying plan
TBlack replied to GrandpaPhil's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Let's number your circles 1-8, left to right. It looks like circles 3,4,6,7 those lines all go to a belaying pin at those racks. Circles 1,2,5,8 all refer to jib/staysail sheets. Are you going to put sails on your model? If not, then don't worry about the sheets, 'cause you won't have anything to attach them to. If you are, those are probably blocks attached to the deck to give the sheet a fair run. -
Michael, with reference to your comment #666 above, and just for the record, I can remember, during my log of Vinalhaven, that you would stop doing your projects and make drawings/illustrations to help me with mine. So I would respectfully suggest that your dedication to and inspiration for this group is most remarkable (in other words, take the bow!) BTW, that lamp is going together with incredible speed. Tom
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