TBlack

Bob, Wonderful subject to model. I'm with everyone else; 1:96 is a good choice, and 20" isn't terribly long. I'm gathering that you're pretty good with the computer. Not only in finding your source site, but also in maneuvering autocad. I love it when us older guys can manipulate the new technology! Tom

Why not secure the lower deadeye so that it doesn't swivel?

Actually, Frankie, I think it's a ketch. A yawl has the mizzen aft of the rudder post and a ketch steps the mizzen forward of the post. Looks like fun. Enjoy. Tom

How about a couple of golf tees, hollowed out, for horns?

Keith, I might take exception to Allan's comment above. I think he's thinking of sailing vessels. I just completed a model of a 19th century steamboat and there was plenty of repetition, especially around the windows: Perhaps you can see the green insert in each opening? To accomplish that I used a Micro-mark product with good results. First I made the master: Then I built the mold and poured in the resin: And you can make them quite thin: Tom

BTW, I'm changing my avatar from this: to what you see on the left. Annie is now 4 years old and her twin brother needs some recognition, so there it is.

Thanks, Tom. I, too, will be following your lift construction with great interest. It's a technique I've never been able to master. My POB approach has a lot more parts to hull construction, and the alignment is a slow process, but it's in small bites and easy to see. I've stiffened the framework and almost got the outer shape refined. I'll present pictures when that phase is done. Tom

Thanks for all the "likes" and, Alex maybe I should stop right now. I know that I can't achieve the level of finish that you produce. And, Alex, your plans are superb! Thank you for all your excellent work in producing them. Professor Mott, Michael, thanks for your support in the past; I hope I don't disappoint you on this one. Tom

On my last attempt, I printed the flags on paper and then mounted them on thin sheet brass which could then be molded to a rippled shape.

Ryan, You're off to a good start. RE: bulkhead alignment: if you move the batten down toward the bilge, is the gap consistent? Tom

This next project of mine is going to be a gift to my son who has been pestering me for a display of my modelling talents. I had 2 considerations in my approach: That the model fit in his house somewhere and that it be interesting to look at. While perusing the various logs on this site, I discovered Alex M's HMS Sphynx, a small frigate (the hull is a little over 100 feet long) and that he sells, through Chuck P., a set of building plans that he had drawn up from the NMM original draughts. At 1:64 the model should come in at around two feet long which took care of the first consideration, and being a frigate with several decks and full rig, my second consideration was met. I've titled this log the Sphynx, but in reality what I really want to model is her sistership, HMS Ariel. We'll see if the NMM can come up with any information on her, but she was quickly captured by the French in the Carribean, so she didn't fly a British flag for long. The French took her back to France and just left her in the harbor. Meanwhile, Ben Franklin was in Paris begging for support for the American Revolution. The French were willing to provide supplies, but told Ben he'd have to provide his own transport. Franklin pointed out that Ariel was just sitting in the harbor and could he borrow it to transport the supplies. That was fine with the French, so Franklin asked John Paul Jones to captain the vessel. To cut to the punch line, Jones got the Ariel to Philadelphia, but not before fighting his last naval battle in Ariel. And, once the supplies were off-loaded, he sailed the ship back to France to return it to her owners. Consequently, we have a British ship owned by the French, but flying an American flag! I've started construction, but just barely. This is going to be a long, slow project.

This is fun to watch. I think it takes several disciplines to pull this off: First, you have to know how to do it; second, you have to know how to explain it; third, you have to know how to photograph it. I think there are several left brain/right brain things going on here. Most inspiring. Tom

Sam, Why does it have to be a castable product? Can't you just use a sheet of clear plastic or even microscope slides to do the job? Tom

Dear 3Bs, You certainly answered my questions, and thanks for the prompt reply. I hadn't counted on the plywood, in its thin state, getting out of square. But, thanks to you, I will be aware of it. I don't think there's any way around it. Tom

Dear 3 Bs: Sorry to come late to the party; you ARE doing a first-rate job. But I've got a question for you: I'm building a 1:64 scale Sphinx class frigate, and I'm just working on the 26 bulkheads. I had decided that I would put the lower decks in prior to planking the hull for ease of access. It looks like you're doing the planking prior to decking. Is there some consideration that I'm missing, or does it really matter? Also, on the bulkheads: the side arms (I don't know what to call them) that stick up: how fragile are they and do I need to take special precautions in making mine? I was going to do what you started out doing (incorporating deck beams in the bulkhead), but now I see you've taken yours out. I think it's quite a lot of work putting them in in the first place. Maybe I'll just follow your lead and not put the beams into the bulkheads. Got any thoughts? Tom

Alex, I'm still trying to get to the difficult part! Anyway, I'm still setting up to make bulkheads. You sure did make a lot of them! Tom

Alex, You work well in both metal and wood. It's almost intimidating! I bought your plan in 1:64 - very complete - and suits me fully.. The only problem is that you set the bar pretty high and about the only thing we have in common is our Unimats. But I will soldier on, trying to follow your example. Tom

I've used apple in various applications with great success. It handles like the other fruit tree wood: pear or cherry. It can have some blond streaks through it that you have to work around. Here are a couple more examples of applewood: Tom

Chris, Thanks for sharing; and very nicely explained. Tom

Michael & Arthur, It's not that the model is small, it's that the 3 people standing next to it are really big! TB

Michael, Popeye, John, Andy, all you guys who got me through this project and who have stuck with me for so many years, Thank You! Michael, In the picture the guy on the left is Bill Chilles who is the president of the Historical Society, and on the right is Chandler Blackington, a director of, the Society, and the driving force behind this presentation. What you don't see is about 8-10 other people who have gathered to watch the proceedings. I was very happy with the turn out and delighted that the model has a really appropriate home and will be seen by many people. And they were really appreciative of the donation. Tom

Just to put the final touch to this log, here is the official photo plus a photo of the presentation ceremony at the Vinalhaven Historical Society

Jason, Why not stain the beech to a darker shade? Or am I missing something? Tom

Bob, I finally decided to read what you have written, and I think I understand a little more about the issue. Two halyards, one for the throat and one for the peak. The peak halyard: fastened at the end of the gaff, leads up to a double block at the crosstrees, back to a single block about midway out on the gaff, back up to the other side of the double block and then down to belaying point. Throat halyard: double block at the jaws of the gaff and double block at the crosstrees.... the end of the halyard is attached to the upper block; down to one side of the lower block; up to one side of the upper block; down to the remaining side of the lower block; up to the remaining side of the upper block; down to belaying point. That makes 5 lines for that halyard, Does that help? Also, from my experience, even though the peak halyard has less back and forth through blocks, it ends up being the longer because of the extra distance. Tom

Bob, Back in the late 1950's I sailed on a 42 foot Alden schooner with double gaff rig. The masts probably we're not as tall as your project, but there was still a lot of line to deal with. Especially holding the coil in one hand while feeding the line to the coil with the other hand. Putting the coil on the pin is not really an issue, because the coil, itself, doesn't go on the pin. As you may know, when coiling the line you leave some line, say a couple of feet between the coil and the pin. When the line is fully coiled and held in your hand, with your other hand reach through the hole in the coil and grab the line running between the coil and the pin (those couple of feet); pull it through the hole and around the top of the coil, creating a loop. This loop goes over the pin, not the whole coil. Tom