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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. TBlack
    Thanks Danny; I'll do it. But one more thought: 2 flutes or 4 flutes on the end mill? I'll be working in brass and hardwood. Tom
  2. TBlack
    I agree with you, Thistle, lots of good advice. I was going to buy a rotary table and an angle bracket to hold it vertically, but I'm reading that the tilting table is a better idea? I'm not sure how I would use that feature, but if Dan thinks it's a good idea, ok. Will that mean that I can build models like Dan does? Tom
  3. TBlack
    Dear all, This has been a very helpful conversation; thank you Thistle for starting it. It does bring up an interesting point though: at what spindle speed can you cut hardwood cleanly? And does the Sherline get there? Tom
  4. TBlack
    You and I are in the same boat: owners of a unimat lathe and looking for a suitable mill. I had focused on the weight of the machine. I think the sherline comes in at around 100 lbs. while the German and Chinese machines are considerably heavier than that....more machine than I need? I'll be interested in what others here think. Tom
  5. TBlack
    Keith, Sorry to be late to the party, and fabulous work that you are doing. Do you suppose the slack line that runs along the bottom of the main boom is a topping lift? Tom
  6. TBlack
    From my point of view, this is the brilliance in this project. Tom
  7. TBlack
    Denis, Once upon a time I would look at your work and think, "I can do that". But, somehow, you've changed. You've gone WAY beyond me! Good work, wonderful pal. TB
  8. TBlack
    I am not proud of my hulls and it is definitely not the way I see everyone else doing it. So I paint my hulls to cover up the mess. Now did you really want to see all that? Actually, I do the same thing, so I don't need to see it; I know how to do that already. Press on... Tom
  9. TBlack
    Sjors, Nice job! I make the start date as Jan 1, 2014. Given the size of this project, mighty fast work, I'm thinking. Incidentally, where do you display this art work? Not exactly coffee table sized! Tom
  10. TBlack
    John, I love to see someone else work in 1:96 scale also...gives me comfort. Also, I see some differences in rigging and deck furniture from one painting to the next. Go with the latter? Tom
  11. TBlack
    Hi Bob That was fast work! Is the horizontal line the waterline? And the shoulder on the bulkhead is where the main deck lies? TB
  12. TBlack
    Bob Glad to see you tackle this project. Looks a little like the one I did a couple of years ago: Tom
  13. TBlack
    Bob, I don't know how you could be more careful. Don't think about it too much. We love your work and your careful explanations. For me, I like the fact that you are also adept with the software. You're an inspiration! TB
  14. TBlack
    Bob, Not only good work, but fast work besides. I'm thinking from the end of Oct. to now is about 3.5 months for 2 crafts? Mighty productive! TB
  15. TBlack
    The result has not been entirely satisfactory, but seems to be the best that I'm likely to achieve. You can judge for yourself from the photos. Bob, I don't see any flaws. Looks good to me, and the camera can be a harsh critic. Tom
  16. TBlack
    Eric, Whatever your misgivings about tackling this project, it all looks crisp and well done so far. I'm doing a model in 1:96 as well, so I'm interested in your ability to deal with small dimensions. I'll check in from time to time. BTW, forgive my ignorance, but what is GRP? Tom
  17. TBlack
    Denis, I've been following your progress and artwork for some time without comment. Now, I feel compelled to comment. This trawler is much more sophisticated than your previous builds. You've been hiding your talent! Well done; a crisp beauty she is. BTW, what kind of soldering iron do you use for that intricate work? I mostly use a torch; not always appropriate for delicate work. Tom
  18. TBlack
    Another thing you can do is buy your dowels from a woodworking store that caters to furniture makers (in the USA I'm thinking of Woodcrafters or Rockler). Furniture makers typically make plugs from dowels to cover screw heads. Consequently, cherry, mahogany, etc dowels are readily available in these stores. Tom
  19. TBlack
    Well there you are! You understand about the left brain and the right brain? One side is artistic and verbal; the other side is math and science. According to your wife, you've got an abundance of one side and according to your accomplishments, you've got an abundance of the other side as well. Yah, I'm corny, but I love to look at talent! Tom
  20. TBlack
    Bob, Damn, you're either smart or very experienced, and you explain it well. Thanks for the tips. Tom
  21. TBlack
    Bob, Beautiful ladder! And interesting technique to get it all uniform. But I've got a couple of questions: I understand that the treads are slipped into the slots of the fixture, but how do you put the angled side pieces on where you can do the soldering? Also, is that a picture of your soldering gun, or is it a pen? Finally, the clean-up of excess solder in the angle of the side pieces must have taken some time? Tom
  22. TBlack
    Frank, Not only is your workmanship superb, as our colleagues have attested, but also your step-by-step explanation and photography are so easy to follow. I ALMOST think I could do it myself! Tom
  23. TBlack
    Grant, I just finished my first fiber glassing on a model, and the advice I got from the "pros" was to use thin glass and keep the epoxy really thin. I'm wondering if that magnificent planking job will show up through the glass? You might seek out some advice about using just the epoxy over the mahogany after you've varnished. I've got to admit I'm a little at sea on this; I've only done it once and I had a painted hull. Tom
  24. TBlack
    Grant, Nice work on the deck planking and the hull. If you're going to put the boat in the water, do you have to fiberglass the hull? Tom
  25. TBlack
    Grant, I was thinking about Mobbsie's comment on the exposed prop. Can the rudder post be made longer so that the rudder hangs down below the prop?

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