TBlack
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I'm following with interest. A number of years ago (23) I built a 1939 triple cockpit Chris Craft. No access to CAD and 3D printing back then. I will be interested to see how these parts turn out. Tom -
I, too, am most impressed. Not only with the operation, but also your drawing of the davit is quite a work of art. The drill is hand operated, right? Tom
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Thanks, dear bro!
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Roger, I also struggled with how to do a model of an ore boat in 1:96. Here is my solution:
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The plans arrived from England. They are of the Hilda and Marguerite. They have enabled me to lay out the cockpit and main hatch which then allows me to see where the deck planks don't go. Consequently, I've been able to lay the deck. The hull isn't quite symmetrical, but I've managed a passable presentation:
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Your method is much better than mine, but I don't have a full sized lathe. I use a Unimat SL1000.
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Don, I get it. Thanks. I use a drill press. Same idea just 90 degrees different. Tom
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Ron, Hard to tell from the photo, but are the top and bottom sides parallel? If not then you've got to square the whole piece up, and then is there enough lumber to do what you want to do? The bigger question in my mind is: why do you want to use it in the first place? Won't the wale be painted black? I may be ignorant. Tom
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Hello Don, Trying to make connections. Do you remember the Salmon Kings hockey team? My son-in-law used to play for them. Also, I'd love to know how you turn a lathe into a thickness sander; I'm having a hard time picturing the set-up. Tom
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Druxey, You're saying that the timberhead tops need to be parallel to the waterline? Tom
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Me too, if I do it right! I'm awaiting a deck plan from England before I tackle the planking. I need to know where the hatches and cockpit go. In the meantime I've been setting up to construct a dinghy to sit on the deck.
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Then I think your hand/eye coordination is outstanding! Tom
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Alex, Boy, have I got questions! 1. How do you get the lower jaw of those clothes pins to hold? 2. How do you get such uniformity of the timberheads? 3. How do you do that little curl at the end of the planksheer? Help us poor buggers do better. Tom
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Hey John! I still use bees wax. Not only does it get rid of the fuzz, but also gives the line a little body which helps thread it through the block. Tom BTW, I think my wax dates back to 1975. A great bargain!
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Peter, Thanks for the prompt reply. Picture not necessary. I get it. Last time around I tried super glue which didn't work so well. Tom
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I know it's a bit of a back track, but how do you get the footropes to hang so nicely? Tom
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Dave, If you tell us which model you are working on, there will be someone here who has built the same model and can give you specific advice. Tom
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Having decided on the scale (1:32), and the type of boat (pilot cutter), I then discovered that the African Boxwood is brittle. On ripping the wood to make deck planks I found that small pieces would break off, making it impossible to get a straight edge. Putting the boxwood aside, I ordered up some yellow cedar from Chuck that has arrived. I found a couple of pilot cutter plans from Starik Hobbies in England, so I have a small hiatus while awaiting delivery. I can do some of the deck planking in the meantime. I have option: planks that follow the line of the hull, or straight planks. I prefer the curved option, I think it looks more elegant, but all the pilot cutter I have researched have straight planks So that's settled. Oh, and thanks Keith for the photos! Tom
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Thanks, Kurt, and Mary, got it! Visual inspiration for the shop! Tom
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Hi Kurt, Where do you buy it? I didn't see it in the store. Tom
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HMS Sphynx by TBlack - 1:64
TBlack replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Druxey, I understand your concern. The final resting place for the model is presently occupied by a forest of nutcrackers. Post Christmas season, the model gets moved inboard. Thanks to all of you for the likes. It's always rewarding to see one's efforts inspected so closely. However, there are 3 tests for any model: the 10 foot test, the 3 foot test, and the 6 inch test. I hope I pass! Tom -
HMS Sphynx by TBlack - 1:64
TBlack replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
The grandson inspects:
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Great to see you back, Alex. Can't let your fabulous talent rest on the shelf! Tom
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Keith (bro), The client, my uncle, wants it left bright. So I'm just using varnish. As you can see from the photos in #7 above, there are dark places in the wood that are fully soaked in. I'm assuming there was some kind of treatment done to the wood by the original carver, I've tried with fine grit paper to remove the dark places aft....no luck unless I go really deep. Not willing to do that. The dark places are just going to have to stay (a little bit like life, in general!). Hi Spyglass! Thanks for checking in. Yes, I also think it was meant to be a small pond yacht, but never got beyond what you see here. That piece of metal isn't lead, but steel. Also, interestingly, the hull is out of one piece of wood. It's soft, maybe pine? Tom
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Thanks John and Keith. I’m going to leave it alone.
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