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Everything posted by TBlack
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You two have had some high hurdles in life to get over. It sounds like you are getting over them. An inspiration for all of us!
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Oh dear Keith, my spiritual brother stay strong. My prayers are with you and Maggie. I’m reminded of Saint Paul’s words wherein he reminds us that God sends these hurdles not to destroy us, but to make us stronger. I am confident you and Maggie will prevail.
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What kind, brand and where do you buy your end mills?
TBlack replied to rlb's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I'd second wefalck's question and further ask what sizes are we talking about. Tom -
I got the 1/4" cherry dowel and proceeded to make the main topmast: Huge color difference. That's not going to work, damn! If I were Chuck Passaro, no problem getting the right stain to get a match; for me, it's a challenge. Clearly, I'm going to have this issue with the rest of the spars. Deal with it later. On to making the fore topmast. Apparently not so easy. I'm on my 4th try which is only 95% correct. Think I'll make a bowsprit instead.
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- Sophie
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Is that a bubble sextant there on the right?
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Amazing detail elegantly executed. Why is it that British model makers seem to have a common skill at detail? Reminds me of Nevil Shute's novel The Trustee From the Toolroom.
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- Indefatigable
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I'm working on the fore top. I won't take up your time with that; it's the same as the main top. Also, I've been working on making top masts. The first two were duds. I started with 3/8" (9mm) cherry dowel and made the square parts first on the mill. Then trying to reduce the round parts down to 5 mm on the lathe, too much stress on the thinner square parts...disaster (firewood?). OK, do the round parts first. Second try.... screwed up the square parts. 3rd try will involve a purchase of 1/4" dowel (from where else but Amazon!). Be here next week.
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- Sophie
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I didn't look at the whole video, but a couple of thoughts: will that base plate fit on your lathe bed and is there a way to lock it down, and is the tool height compatible with your lathe? Tom
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I'm impressed with folks like Keith and davec who can turn out product using, basically their hands. I have to use my mill to do the square parts and my lathe to do the round parts. And, actually, the mill with rotary table works pretty good on the round parts as well. Tom
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Keith, You're progressing nicely, and I'm impressed with your camera work. What are you using to get such good close-ups? And why can't I? Tom
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Did you see that? I got a like from Chris Watton! I feel like I've arrived! You have to understand that I'm taking his wonderfully made kit; pieces that fit with zero tolerance, impeccable instructions. And I'm butchering up his transom; not following his paint scheme; not always using his wood supplies; yet I still get a like! YES! Tom
- 320 replies
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- Sophie
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I've overlaid and cemented the rim piece and pierced the top for the crows feet. As I mentioned, I'm not doing the battens justice. To see how it should be done, please visit Theodosius' log of Speedy, his post #99 and subsequent back in September Now I'll taper the battens according to Lees.
- 320 replies
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- Sophie
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According to Lees, the rim plank is 1.5" thick. The kit supplied rim is 1 mm, which is approximately 2", close enough. So I'm faced with this: My top in the center, the kit supplied rim/batten assembly on the left, and a template for the crows feet holes on the right. The battens aren't strictly correct, and they need to be tapered, but it all gets painted black where detail will be lost. In other words, I'm going with the kit piece. As to crows feet, it's not clear to me whether Sophie qualifies; she's right on the cusp of not having them, but it's extra detail and not too hard to do at this scale (I did a euphroe block at 1:96 for my Sphynx class). So, I'll overlay that template to position the holes. Tom
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- Sophie
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Once I've flipped the top it looks like this on the bottom: I fill in the spaces like before: Then I can take it off the former to work on the outboard shape. Blessedly, I have a template for that exercise: And then it's on to the rim. Tom
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- Sophie
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Here I've filled in the athwartship planks. What I've done is simulate the scarfed joints that make up the top. Next is flip the top over and do the same on the underside.
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- Sophie
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Finish the long planks, which are 1/4" wide, BTW.: The next thing is to fill in between the longitudinal planks.
- 320 replies
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- Sophie
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As to the planking, I'm using 1/32" thick planks. I can't find anything in Lees that suggests width. Longridge uses 1/32" as his thickness and 3/16" as his width at 1:96 scale. Druxey's tops are a 3 layered sandwich of 1/32" stuff, while mine are 2 layers of 1/32". Anyway, the first steps are like this: Those planks are just laying there. They are not glued. I'm not worried about the precise length at this point. The next phase is this: That cross piece is glued and locks everything in place, and I will now proceed to put the rest of the athwart planks in place maybe after dinner or maybe tomorrow, but not now. Keith will hate me for this, but it's cocktail time! Tom
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- Sophie
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