ChrisLBren
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Everything posted by ChrisLBren
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Hey Jason I scratched my lights on my Confederacy at the same scale without a problem using a miniature table saw - similar approach to making gratings - it can be done and your lights have fewer panes Best Chris -
Power Tools for a Fully Framed Build
ChrisLBren replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Those are the brands I'm looking at Toni - I like Lie Nielsen and Stanleys as the cheaper option since they're both in Imperial - the Two Cherries are nice too -
Power Tools for a Fully Framed Build
ChrisLBren replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hey Greg, My Delta does have a tilting table - so one less tool to buy... -
Power Tools for a Fully Framed Build
ChrisLBren replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks for the advice everyone - after sleeping on it - I may hold off on the mill for now. I think a smarter investment is a high end set of chisels and a sharpening system. I've got my Byrnes Sanders/Table saw, a Preac Saw, a Wood River Spindle Sander and a Delta Scroll Saw. Eventually I will need to buy a lathe -
Thanks guys - appreciate the kind words. Mike, i top coated three coats of Fiebings (buffed with a tshirt after ever coat) with Danish Oil - which gives it a slight luster that mimics ebony. Hope this helps, Chris
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Power Tools for a Fully Framed Build
ChrisLBren replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks for the input - actually the difference in price between the Microlux and Sherline is not that significant for me. I'm new to Mills and have never used one. I do notice that many people use them on fully framed builds - and I plan on being active in this hobby for awhile (Im 46). What would really be helpful is to understand which accessories I will need to get started. The first parts I will be building will be the keel and the frames. I will also buy some high quality chisels and a sharpening system which can do the work of a mill by hand. It does seem to me that a mill will offer me more precision. Thanks Chris -
Power Tools for a Fully Framed Build
ChrisLBren replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Yikes - Ill clean it out - thanks for letting me know -
Power Tools for a Fully Framed Build
ChrisLBren replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks for the feedback guys - does any one have an opinion on this mill ? Its 20 percent off at Micromark right now for approx 660.00 http://www.micromark.com/microlux-high-precision-heavy-duty-r8-miniature-milling-machine,9616.html -
Thanks everyone - ASAT - this approach is not mine - I imitated many French Builder's use of color/wood tones - if you have Frolichs book, "The Art of Shipmodeling" you'll see my reference. 7 years as of Thanksgiving this year on this build - lately I've been up in the shop at 5am and working till 7am until the kids get up - seems to be working...
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Hey Group As I'm winding down Confederacy I'm gearing up for my next build. I already own all of Jim Byrnes tools and a spindle sander. On the list is a mill - would love suggestions as to accessories (I understand Sherline may be the way to go), a lathe, and possibly a drill press (but won't mills have that capability?). I'm building in 1/48 or 1/36 scale - thanks !
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Hey Group, Back at it with Confederacy - all of the channels and chainplates are installed - now its back to the head timbers and finishing up the bow
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Yikes sorry to hear Ben - hopefully you can salvage and rebuild the elements that are warped.
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Id use a type of wool - super fine steel wool - or even brass wool - which I hear doesn't shred as much in between your two coats. Your first coat of 50/50 will absorb pretty well. Not sure if you decided to sand off the earlier coats though - so not sure what the effect may be. I'd leave your second 100 percent strength Tung Oil as is. As Gaetan says - do not let the full oil sit on the piece more than 15 minutes before removing and watch for seepage.
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I think Dan is spot on here - you want to remove that excess oil that is not drying
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Im not sure if putting more oil on right now is going to help your problem even if its diluted. (which is for a first coat only). Id leave it alone and let it gas off - it will eventually dry. If you're in more of a hurry - maybe sand off the oil and start over ?
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Hey Mike, The proper way to apply pure Tung Oil is 50/50 cut with Mineral Spirits for your first coat. Let that dry 24 hours which lays your base for uniform penetration. Then you apply full strength - let it sit for 15 minutes or so before buffing out. Continue to monitor for seepage and always allow 24 hours between coats. It sounds like you should just let the piece gas out - applying Danish Oil on top could compound your problem. Hope this helps
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She's back on the bench - continuing the channels and chainplates. No more guarantees when she will be completed - maybe sooner than later ?!?
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You need a table saw to do it - do you have one ? Then its just a question of cutting your wood to to fit in the space occupied by the lights and then cutting some mullions/slots using your table saw. The construction is very similar to making your own gratings. Does this help ?
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Hey Mike - sounds like you've got an interesting approach - I would caution you on using Fiebings to dye Pear on large areas - it's fading out already on my Confederacy and Remco has been having issues with it on his build. Several thin coats of acrylic paint sanded in between is a better option.
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Thanks Nigel ! I've held on to her because Ive always loved this ship and have wanted to represent a vessel as it actually appeared. So the thought of using some paints is fun - and this particular vessel lends itself to it. My plan is to mimic the scheme of the model in the German museum as closely as possible - and using some weathering techniques Ive picked up over the years. We will see - good to be back at modeling.
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Guess who's back on my workbench ? My old friend the Wappen Von Hamburg. My three year old twins are fascinated by her (they think she looks like a pirate ship). I managed to sand off the wipe on poly on the lower hull - seal the cracks in the planking with epoxy on my so so planking job (she will be painted off white anyway below the wales) and seal up the deck (from my sorry attempt to show simulated Hahn style deck openings back in 2002). Ive attached some paint pigment guides from my earlier research - unlike my Confederacy - I want paint her to look as realistic for the period she existed in the 17th Century. The LGV in 1/36th is still waiting in the wings as is my Confederacy - Im getting back to into the hobby. I'm finding working on a kit after a long breaks from modeling is relaxing and fun !
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Love windows Mark ! What product did you use to glaze them ? I may need to use them on a project. Thanks Chris
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Wappen von Hamburg by andy - Corel
ChrisLBren replied to andy's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
On my WVH - which is fully planked and begging for some attention - I epoxied the gun carriages (which were scratch built - I got the crappy pot metal ones in my kit from 2002) to the deck. Ill add the barrels later with a drop of epoxy onto the carriages - the ones below deck will not be rigged. I agree with Josh - if you can remove the upper deck to access the cannon - would be best -
Hey Remco Ive noticed the same thing on my Confederacy's wales - not much you can do about it. Needless to say I will not use Fiebings on the next build.
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