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ChrisLBren

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Everything posted by ChrisLBren

  1. ChrisLBren
    Spectacular
  2. ChrisLBren
    Impressive looking hull Ben !
  3. ChrisLBren
    Gaetan, The sculptures look wonderful ! I'm also a huge fan of the look of using one wood exclusively for a build. I had no idea you could realize sculptures of this quality with cherry - goes to show it all has to do with the skill of the artist. Chris
  4. ChrisLBren
    Wow - love it Gaetan - what wood are you using? Im a huge fan of your 74s and you've surpassed them with these carvings. Well done !!!!
  5. ChrisLBren
    Alll metal fittings need to be primed - then you are good to go with acrylic or enamel paints. Hope this helps, Chris
  6. ChrisLBren
    Only the forward most head timbers left - and then its on to installing the rail and hopefully some pictures. The Byrnes disc sander has come in big time for making these rapidly (as my scrap pile grows). Id advise anyone building her to use a hardwood for these - I'm amazed Chuck was able to pull it off with basswood considering how fragile this structure is. Trial and error is the only way I've found to make these vs using templates etc... This is by far the most challenging part of this build - Confederacy builders you are warned...LOL
  7. ChrisLBren
    I own the supplemental plans and books 1 thru 3 of the 74 Gun ship - English versions. They are available in several languages. For an example on the plans go to this link. http://ancre.fr/en/ouvrages-de-base-en/73-plans-de-la-charpente-du-v74-canons.html
  8. ChrisLBren
    I received mine last week - they're great ! I'm studying these intently right now along with book 1 of the 74 Gun ship. And actually the author makes a very valid case for both of these alternate 74s to Boudriots generic vessel - i think the total difference being about 4 feet in length. I lay out his findings in more detail if there is interest, Chris
  9. ChrisLBren
    I've got both a Byrnes table saw and disc sander on way...... Cant wait to use the sander on those head timbers that have been giving me fits - pics soon !!!
  10. ChrisLBren
    Wow - that looks great ! What a stunning figurehead for a gorgeous model. Chris
  11. ChrisLBren
    Looking good Mark - go with the Pear if you can afford it - much better wood in terms of workability and less grain. Chris
  12. ChrisLBren
    Looking good Ben !
  13. ChrisLBren
    Looks great Toni !!!! Have you thought about cutting some of the frames on the unplanked sides to create some viewing windows into all of that beautiful work inside the hull that will never be seen again. A lot of Ancre modelers approach their builds this way - Im a huge fan of it. Chris http://modelisme.arsenal.free.fr/artdumodelisme/Le%20Gros%20Ventre/indexgb.html
  14. ChrisLBren
    So after another frustrating session with the head timbers - thought of a bright idea - rather than burn through boxwood - Im going to make templates out of basswood and transfer to box. Lets see if this works....
  15. ChrisLBren
    Hi Group, Just received this email from Ancre this AM = needless to say its on the top of my Xmas list - now just to make the decision if I want them in 1/72nd or 1/48th scale. Its really cool that they are also adding documentation for a building the 1782 Centaur or the 1785 Superb - so you have a choice of a specific vessel vs a generic example of this class. http://ancre.fr/en/ouvrages-de-base-en/73-plans-de-la-charpente-du-v74-canons.html Chris
  16. ChrisLBren
    Back from Thanksgiving and thinking the next move is to instead finish the head rails/head. I'm going to change my approach on the head timbers this time - rather than the rear one - Im going to start with the forward most one first. That way i can get the angles right and just merely shrink them and then be able to slot them into the correct position. At least thats the plan now....
  17. ChrisLBren
    Thanks guys ! I've been searching Ebay/Etsy for vintage drawer/cabinet hardwood knobs to mount her on - thinking that would look sweet along with an ebony stained/dyed display board. That's the next step - as most of you know there is a slight warp on my hull of about 1/16th inch which I think I can mitigate when I mount her. Then I can warp up the channels/chain plates, stub masts, anchors and head rails.
  18. ChrisLBren
    Thanks Ben, Rusty and Mark - here are the updated photos. I will be adding the channels next in boxwood and dye their inverted knees with Fiebings black leather dye. I will scratch the deadeye strops and chain plate assemblies (hoping to get a torch for Xmas), then its finishing the head rails and adding the stump masts/anchors and mounting her to a display board. Yancovitch - I did not simulate caulking on the hull planking - not really a fan of that look - and most museum models do not show this detail. You can see from the photos that the Tung Oil finish I used did accentuate the lines of the planking slightly - which was the effect I wanted. I used a number 2 pencil to simulate caulking for the deck planking. As far as treenailing - at this scale i didn't want to bother with it - I do think think the drilling and saw dust method would work well though if you want to go for it. All planks were glued to each other and the bulkheads to try to get as tight of a result as possible. Hope that helps - and thanks for the kind words! Happy Thanksgiving ! Chris
  19. ChrisLBren
    Fenders installed - gun port lids just about finished - photos in next couple days. All I have left on this one is the channels/deadeyes and wrapping up the head rails. Five years into this build as of Thanksgiving....
  20. ChrisLBren
    Looking good Rusty - i use pure tung oil and sand - works great as filler. Im sure the same technique would work with wipe on poly. Chris
  21. ChrisLBren
    Gents you can buy the 74 Gun Series in English directly from Ancre for 116 US dollars a piece new. Most resellers try to sell copies of used ones for much more than this. Chris
  22. ChrisLBren
    I'm enjoying watching your progress Mike - if this is any help - most museum models from the classic period do not depict hull caulking. I find that a good oil finish will be enough to highlight the lines between the boards - at least on the hull. For deck planking - a simple number 2 pencil does the trick. Chris
  23. ChrisLBren
    Hey Gaetan For me the trick of applying pure tung is to cut the first coat 50/50 with mineral spirits and then apply a second coat at full strength 24 hours later. I found that the thinned first coat insured even absorption of the second coat. Also much less seepage which is a tendency of pure tung. I am using Bitumen patina (which is a liquid) sold by art stores in Europe. It sounds like you are using the solid form of Bitumen. As far as the bitumen mix I've only used one coat thinned 50/50 with spirits after the tung is fully cured (a few days later) and it did go on like a wash. I haven't attempted a second bitumen coat - I'm sure the ageing effect would be more pronounced. I am curious to see how the effect would change if mixed it directly in the tung oil instead of used as a top coat. Ill have to try that one ! Chris
  24. ChrisLBren
    No pics of your finish/model wq3296? Great post Gaetan - thanks for the scientific info - I know the Fichant's model - its gorgeous and looks 200 years old. As to the mix Steve - there are different ways to apply it Gaeten mixes his with Tung Oil. I'm sure he can help you with the ratios. I learned from Dimitry Shevelev mix Bitumen patina 50/50 with mineral spirits and apply to finished and fully cured pure Tung Oil (at least two coats) - it sort of acts like a wash in oil painting - and wipe off the excess. Here's an example of his work (i think he learned this technique from Fichant. http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/74_gun_ship/ Hope this helps, Chris
  25. ChrisLBren
    Why don't you post a photo of your finish here using your products - so we can have a look at the results rather than just simply being dismissive of others? We'd love to see some photos. Chris

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