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ChrisLBren

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  1. ChrisLBren
    Oh and I should add i will be milling pre dimensioned (for the most part) lumber from Crown Timberyard for exact sizes with a Jim Brynes thickness sander, and the rest of his tools to scratch build along with a Preac saw and Delta Scroll Saw. No painting (other than acrylics) and Tung Oil Finish.
  2. ChrisLBren
    Actually Ive got a ton of wall space down there - I just want to have a safe environment to work in good lighting, benches for my tools, a desk to work on, and dust collection Is the priority so I can start modeling again.
  3. ChrisLBren
    Good question - I've got a contractor visiting to give me an estimate. I'm just wondering can I leave the ceiling as is - for now if I get a dust collection system ? Obviously I've got a lot of expenses right now between the new house and the twins.
  4. ChrisLBren
    Is this what you guys are talking about as far as dust filtration ? http://jdstools.com/product/air-tech-hp-2/
  5. ChrisLBren
    Hey Everyone, Thanks for the ideas - our basement is does not leak so far (we've had a lot of rain in Chicago) and it stays relatively cool in the summer and warm in the winter. There is also double paned glass on the windows. I think I need about 300 square feet of drywall - the tricky thing is dealing with the pipes and wires that protrude -so Id rather hire a professional - shouldnt be more than 550 dollars or so. Dust filtration is a priority for sure.
  6. ChrisLBren
    Hey Group, Some of you know we just bought a new house with a finished basement (kids playroom with a bathroom and bedroom for our nanny) and a locked door which goes to storage area and partially finished basement for this area of the house. Our house has a basement 50 percent below grade and the walls nearest the finished heated basement are dry walled (code for our city) - the other walls outer walls are insulated above ground and not finished. Im not sure if I want to breathe it or spread saw dust around here. Then again Im not an expert. Is this a suitable setting for a workshop without drywalling the rest of the basement - Ive attached photos. I'd do it myself but there are several pipes and fixtures directly mounted on the studs - which will make this tough unless I hire someone (which may be my best choice). The other option is I mount the work bench in the garage - bring the heavy duty tools up there as I need them for milling and lock them up from the kids (not ideal) - and use a lighter work desk and chair in my office upstairs. Your thoughts and advice are appreciated - a bit bummed - my fathers day gifts were two new work benches and a wheeled storage unit for my tools - which is not ideal now.
  7. ChrisLBren
    Come on Ben - you should have carved it yourself....(smile). Looks fantastic - wow....
  8. ChrisLBren
    You can work with Fiebings with some advance planning. It does bleed easily so I would suggest scribing a line and then mask with Tamiya tape between the areas you dont want the dye to bleed into and be careful not to flood it. Make sense ? And then I've used danish oil as a top coat. Check out my Confederacy log to see the results. I'd probably just use water based paint next time though - as Gaetan said - its much easier to control.
  9. ChrisLBren
    Id laminate two layers - it will be much easier even if you are using a bendy wood like swiss pear to get them properly aligned. Then paint or dye them before proceeding with the rest of your planking - no need to mask. Thats how I approached it on my Confederacy.
  10. ChrisLBren
    Hey Gaetan I just noticed your wales are now black ? Did you paint, stain or dye them ? Chris
  11. ChrisLBren
    A ship that big might be my last - but I do have plenty of room in our new house to display a few models - I still have Confederacy to finish and a Wappen Von Hamburg hull laying in wait as well...
  12. ChrisLBren
    Hey Group I've moved into our new house - I've attached photos of my new workspace (which needs to be set up - I also have a three car garage and a large deck for workspace) and my study where I have a big wall to house a ship model (you can see the profile of the plans of the 118 Commerce de Marseille which would easily fit in this space at 1/48). Its either this ship or the 74 - funny aside - I bought a smaller Weber gas grill this past weekend - the Spirit - and I'm trading up for the Genesis because the wife said it was too small. So maybe I should go for the 118 built as the 120 L'Orient - since she says go big or go home ! Chris
  13. ChrisLBren
    I single planked my Confederacy in 1/16th Swiss Pear - it bends easily and is a all around terrific wood for model ship building. I may use it exclusively on my next build. Boxwood is great too - its all comes down to personal taste (do you want a lighter model or a darker one)
  14. ChrisLBren
    If you're going to build 1/72nd go plank on bulkhead - full frame 1/48 or larger scale for best results (although I have heard you can go as small as 3/16). Personally I'm going to build full frame at 1/48 - as part of the deal for our new house - Ive got a big workshop !!!
  15. ChrisLBren
    The different options exist if you already own the original plans at 1/72nd that you purchased with the volumes. So thats the cheapest option - just getting the supplemental ones that show drafted frames. Or you can buy the entire set enlarged to 1/48 scale. Hope this helps. Chris
  16. ChrisLBren
    Hey Ben, I think 150 is fine above the wales where you will plank - but I would sand at 320, then 400 and finish at 600 grit below the wales for optimum finish. Sorry to be Mr Miyagi here from Karate Kid (LOL). Its looking good !!! Chris
  17. ChrisLBren
    Spectacular
  18. ChrisLBren
    Impressive looking hull Ben !
  19. ChrisLBren
    Gaetan, The sculptures look wonderful ! I'm also a huge fan of the look of using one wood exclusively for a build. I had no idea you could realize sculptures of this quality with cherry - goes to show it all has to do with the skill of the artist. Chris
  20. ChrisLBren
    Wow - love it Gaetan - what wood are you using? Im a huge fan of your 74s and you've surpassed them with these carvings. Well done !!!!
  21. ChrisLBren
    Alll metal fittings need to be primed - then you are good to go with acrylic or enamel paints. Hope this helps, Chris
  22. ChrisLBren
    Only the forward most head timbers left - and then its on to installing the rail and hopefully some pictures. The Byrnes disc sander has come in big time for making these rapidly (as my scrap pile grows). Id advise anyone building her to use a hardwood for these - I'm amazed Chuck was able to pull it off with basswood considering how fragile this structure is. Trial and error is the only way I've found to make these vs using templates etc... This is by far the most challenging part of this build - Confederacy builders you are warned...LOL
  23. ChrisLBren
    I own the supplemental plans and books 1 thru 3 of the 74 Gun ship - English versions. They are available in several languages. For an example on the plans go to this link. http://ancre.fr/en/ouvrages-de-base-en/73-plans-de-la-charpente-du-v74-canons.html
  24. ChrisLBren
    I received mine last week - they're great ! I'm studying these intently right now along with book 1 of the 74 Gun ship. And actually the author makes a very valid case for both of these alternate 74s to Boudriots generic vessel - i think the total difference being about 4 feet in length. I lay out his findings in more detail if there is interest, Chris
  25. ChrisLBren
    I've got both a Byrnes table saw and disc sander on way...... Cant wait to use the sander on those head timbers that have been giving me fits - pics soon !!!

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