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ChrisLBren
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Everything posted by ChrisLBren
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Id laminate two layers - it will be much easier even if you are using a bendy wood like swiss pear to get them properly aligned. Then paint or dye them before proceeding with the rest of your planking - no need to mask. Thats how I approached it on my Confederacy. -
Hey Gaetan I just noticed your wales are now black ? Did you paint, stain or dye them ? Chris
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A ship that big might be my last - but I do have plenty of room in our new house to display a few models - I still have Confederacy to finish and a Wappen Von Hamburg hull laying in wait as well...
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Hey Group I've moved into our new house - I've attached photos of my new workspace (which needs to be set up - I also have a three car garage and a large deck for workspace) and my study where I have a big wall to house a ship model (you can see the profile of the plans of the 118 Commerce de Marseille which would easily fit in this space at 1/48). Its either this ship or the 74 - funny aside - I bought a smaller Weber gas grill this past weekend - the Spirit - and I'm trading up for the Genesis because the wife said it was too small. So maybe I should go for the 118 built as the 120 L'Orient - since she says go big or go home ! Chris
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I single planked my Confederacy in 1/16th Swiss Pear - it bends easily and is a all around terrific wood for model ship building. I may use it exclusively on my next build. Boxwood is great too - its all comes down to personal taste (do you want a lighter model or a darker one)
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If you're going to build 1/72nd go plank on bulkhead - full frame 1/48 or larger scale for best results (although I have heard you can go as small as 3/16). Personally I'm going to build full frame at 1/48 - as part of the deal for our new house - Ive got a big workshop !!!
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The different options exist if you already own the original plans at 1/72nd that you purchased with the volumes. So thats the cheapest option - just getting the supplemental ones that show drafted frames. Or you can buy the entire set enlarged to 1/48 scale. Hope this helps. Chris
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Hey Ben, I think 150 is fine above the wales where you will plank - but I would sand at 320, then 400 and finish at 600 grit below the wales for optimum finish. Sorry to be Mr Miyagi here from Karate Kid (LOL). Its looking good !!! Chris
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Gaetan, The sculptures look wonderful ! I'm also a huge fan of the look of using one wood exclusively for a build. I had no idea you could realize sculptures of this quality with cherry - goes to show it all has to do with the skill of the artist. Chris
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Wow - love it Gaetan - what wood are you using? Im a huge fan of your 74s and you've surpassed them with these carvings. Well done !!!!
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Alll metal fittings need to be primed - then you are good to go with acrylic or enamel paints. Hope this helps, Chris
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Only the forward most head timbers left - and then its on to installing the rail and hopefully some pictures. The Byrnes disc sander has come in big time for making these rapidly (as my scrap pile grows). Id advise anyone building her to use a hardwood for these - I'm amazed Chuck was able to pull it off with basswood considering how fragile this structure is. Trial and error is the only way I've found to make these vs using templates etc... This is by far the most challenging part of this build - Confederacy builders you are warned...LOL
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I own the supplemental plans and books 1 thru 3 of the 74 Gun ship - English versions. They are available in several languages. For an example on the plans go to this link. http://ancre.fr/en/ouvrages-de-base-en/73-plans-de-la-charpente-du-v74-canons.html
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I received mine last week - they're great ! I'm studying these intently right now along with book 1 of the 74 Gun ship. And actually the author makes a very valid case for both of these alternate 74s to Boudriots generic vessel - i think the total difference being about 4 feet in length. I lay out his findings in more detail if there is interest, Chris
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I've got both a Byrnes table saw and disc sander on way...... Cant wait to use the sander on those head timbers that have been giving me fits - pics soon !!!
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Wow - that looks great ! What a stunning figurehead for a gorgeous model. Chris
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Looking good Mark - go with the Pear if you can afford it - much better wood in terms of workability and less grain. Chris
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Looking good Ben !
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Looks great Toni !!!! Have you thought about cutting some of the frames on the unplanked sides to create some viewing windows into all of that beautiful work inside the hull that will never be seen again. A lot of Ancre modelers approach their builds this way - Im a huge fan of it. Chris http://modelisme.arsenal.free.fr/artdumodelisme/Le%20Gros%20Ventre/indexgb.html
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So after another frustrating session with the head timbers - thought of a bright idea - rather than burn through boxwood - Im going to make templates out of basswood and transfer to box. Lets see if this works....
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Hi Group, Just received this email from Ancre this AM = needless to say its on the top of my Xmas list - now just to make the decision if I want them in 1/72nd or 1/48th scale. Its really cool that they are also adding documentation for a building the 1782 Centaur or the 1785 Superb - so you have a choice of a specific vessel vs a generic example of this class. http://ancre.fr/en/ouvrages-de-base-en/73-plans-de-la-charpente-du-v74-canons.html Chris
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Back from Thanksgiving and thinking the next move is to instead finish the head rails/head. I'm going to change my approach on the head timbers this time - rather than the rear one - Im going to start with the forward most one first. That way i can get the angles right and just merely shrink them and then be able to slot them into the correct position. At least thats the plan now....
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Thanks guys ! I've been searching Ebay/Etsy for vintage drawer/cabinet hardwood knobs to mount her on - thinking that would look sweet along with an ebony stained/dyed display board. That's the next step - as most of you know there is a slight warp on my hull of about 1/16th inch which I think I can mitigate when I mount her. Then I can warp up the channels/chain plates, stub masts, anchors and head rails.
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