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ChrisLBren

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Everything posted by ChrisLBren

  1. ChrisLBren
    She's a transport ship - love the name ! That Pear is a very interesting in color - much paler than the Swiss Pear i see here in the US. Are you going to build exclusively in Pear ?
  2. ChrisLBren
    Hi Jay, My process with pure Tung Oil is simple - apply first coat thinned 50 percent with mineral spirits (this is key for your base coat for maximum absorption) - let dry for 24 hours. Lightly steel wool with 0000 - then apply second coat full strength - let it sit for 10 -15 minutes then buff with t shirt - watch for seepage (you shouldn't get much - since you thinned your base coat). Again let dry for 24 hours - steel wool and apply final coat full strength and remove excess after 10 minutes or so. Let dry 24 hours and you're done - I don't steel wool final coat. Keep in mind this is using pure Tung Oil on a hardwood (in my case Pear) - you should be good to go after letting the final oil coat cure for a few days. I've never had a problem glueing a part to a surface i have applied this finish to - again you do need to sand or scrape the area you will be glueing the part to - then just reapply some oil after the part has dried - works like a charm. Chris
  3. ChrisLBren
    Sure Ill add to the discussion - I use pure tung oil as a finish. In order to glue a part to the finished surface - all you need to do is sand the area with 320 grit or scrape. Then you glue (PVA or Cryno) - and after dry reapply the oil for a perfect finish. Chris
  4. ChrisLBren
    Hi Tom, I will be watching your progress as well - wishing you the best. I also own this Monograph and hope to start her next year - in 1/36th scale. Chris
  5. ChrisLBren
    Looks terrific Remco - cant go wrong with Fiebings. Personally i think treenails standing out against dark/black wales looks odd. Subtlety is always better. Chris
  6. ChrisLBren
    Hi Mike, Kit bashing to me always sounds way more difficult than just buying a scroll saw, quality wood, source whatever fittings you need (from Chuck for instance), and doing it yourself with solid plans (smile). Look forward to watching your progress ! Chris
  7. ChrisLBren
    Looking really nice Danny - I'm at a similar point on Confederacy - i know how difficult it is to scribed parallel grooves on the headrails and cheeks. Ben to answer your question - swiss pear is softer to carve than box. Euro box is the best if you can find it, costello box almost as good. I had some costello crumble on me while attempting these rails on my build. Can't imagine them coming out half as good as yours Danny in swiss pear - kudos ! Chris
  8. ChrisLBren
    Thanks guys - your compliments are giving me some motivation to get back in the shop this weekend. Work and the babies are making it really tough right now. I can see the finish line - if i can just steal an hour here or there it should help me to get some momentum going again.
  9. ChrisLBren
    Id use the Oil afterwards - it should have no affect on the painted surfaces if they are completely dry (meaning wait a few days of the paint fully drying out before applying the oil). The wood will soak it up like a sponge - the painted surfaces shouldn't as the paint will act as a barrier for absorption. Hope this helps. Chris
  10. ChrisLBren
    For me its Art of Shipmodeling B. Frolich and Volumes 1 -3 of the 74 Gun Ship Boudriot - Volume 4 is on my wish list.
  11. ChrisLBren
    Fun discussion Nigel - but maybe I'm off here in understanding conversions - 1/32 is 1.5 times larger than @1/48 and 1/24 is 2 times larger than @ 1/48. 1/36 is 1.33 which just seems odd....
  12. ChrisLBren
    I've seen this gorgeous model Nigel - thanks for sharing ! As you've mentioned - its up to the builder to determine his/her own style. On my Confederacy build I completely borrowed/stole Frolich's approach. When I get to my next build - Im hoping to create my own style. I do know this - I'm going to scale up - either 1/36 or 1/32 (which again seriously wondering why I haven't seen a ship depicted in 1/32 scale)
  13. ChrisLBren
    Perfectly built model without any "simulated" caulking. http://5500.forumactif.org/t671-modele-le-gros-ventre-au-1-36-par-gbesson
  14. ChrisLBren
    How about no caulking ? Most classic museum models do not depict it - this is more or less a recent addition in ship modeling. Chris
  15. ChrisLBren
    Thanks Mike I think on a POB Unicorn - Black, Pear and Box would look sweet. Consider the Pure Tung Oil Finish - if you want to know my technique - send me a PM. I learned it thru trial and error. Chris
  16. ChrisLBren
    Jeff Hayes at HobbyMill has provided me some of the best service and product in my 20 + years as a sales person period. Communication has never been an issue and follow up has been first rate. Chris
  17. ChrisLBren
    Thanks Brian - big fan of your work and all of your posts here helping out. A friend of mine who is an architect blew up the plans of LGV to 1/36 to give me an idea of size - right around a 43 inch hull which is doable. My passion is French Naval Architecture after reading Boudriot's 74 Gun Ship series. As much as I love the idea of building L'Orient - she will be over 63 inches at 1/48 which just doesn't work for my space considerations. I could shrink the plans to 1/64 and she is doable - but I don't want to build full frame anything smaller than 1/48 so she would have to be POB. So ( I could change my mind yet again) - but I want to build full frame so my next project will be LGV at 1/36. At this scale you have so much room for detailing and sculptures are easier to realize. She has an interesting history in connection with Western Australia and has elegant lines. The 74 awaits in the wings if I ever finish this one ! As far as approach - it will either be exclusively pear wood (Belgian School) or i will use boxwood for sculptures as I do have some good English boxwood stashed. No dying pear to resemble ebony, no simulated caulking, but all fastenings and joinery will be executed. As far as finish - i want to explore some options - pure tung oil worked really well on Confederacy - but does involve buffing - which could be a nightmare on a full frame build with all of its nooks and crannies. I may need to look into wax as a possible alternative. Some of the French Modelers use old fashioned shellac which was used on the original museum models - very tricky in its application. More photos on Confederacy later this week, Chris
  18. ChrisLBren
    Hi Group, I wanted to share this build log. This model is gorgeous - built completely "Belgian Style" in all pear. Leaning towards this approach for my next build - note no simulated caulking but joinery and fastenings are well articulated all in 1/36 scale. http://5500.forumactif.org/t671-modele-le-gros-ventre-au-1-36-par-gbesson
  19. ChrisLBren
    Hi Ulises, As a start for you check out some of the Monographs for the various ships of the Ancre http://ancre.fr/ Here is the French equivalent of MSW - which should be helpful http://5500.forumactif.org One of my favorite modelers that builds off these monographs - the renowned Bernard Frolich http://5500.forumactif.org French ship design was more insular than the British - they did not take lines off captured ships. Its all a matter or personal taste - for me French Naval Architecture has become a passion of mine. The Royal Louis resembles my Commerce de Marseille Monograph somewhat - also a 120 gunner - you may want to google Delacroix's website to look at that Monograph as well.
  20. ChrisLBren
    Hey Ulises - You probably know this but just in case - the planks follow the curves of the bulwarks on a French ship not off a centerline. Look forward to seeing your progress. Chris
  21. ChrisLBren
    64 inch hull Ben @ 1/48. Yet to be decided whether its Full Frame or POB - could easily reduce the plans to 1/64 - hull would be closer to 50 inches.
  22. ChrisLBren
    Actually L'Orient is a 120 gunner - if I decide to dive off that high jump.
  23. ChrisLBren
    Thanks Mark - actually putting away the plans isn't too hard - I can't begin construction until we move to a new house for my next project. Ben - hate to say it - your progress is looking great on Pegasus - you may not ever get back to Confederacy now that you are working with better wood and have been bitten by the scratch building bug. I've got a Wappen Von Hamburg hull along with a Bob Hunt Fair American hull unfinished sitting in my workshop - I doubt ill ever get back to them - its all a learning process. Nils - appreciate you checking in on my log !
  24. ChrisLBren
    So impressive Gaetan - gorgeous build !!! Chris
  25. ChrisLBren
    I'm still working and not just daydreaming about my next project. Chesstree installed - bit of glare as the tung oil dries - hoping to tackle the fenders and ladders next

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