ChrisLBren
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Everything posted by ChrisLBren
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ancre Le Fleuron 1729 by rekon54 - 1:24
ChrisLBren replied to rekon54's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
That finish you've achieved is SPECTACULAR -
Sovereign of the Seas kit (was there ever more than one)
ChrisLBren replied to mtdoramike's topic in Wood ship model kits
There was a kit by Sergal of the Great Harry - larger than 50 inches. It looks like the Mary Rose on steroids. Its no longer in production but pops up from time to time on ebay. Google it for images of the kit - hope that helps. -
Tool for Sanding Inside of Curved Pieces
ChrisLBren replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hey Bob and Greg, Thanks for your input - I took dremel and drill press back - I think a spindel is a better piece of equipment. Im not too worried about the parts dissolving since the frames are pretty big at 1/36th scale. So if you have any reccos for a good sander - Id appreciate it. -
Tool for Sanding Inside of Curved Pieces
ChrisLBren replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks for the replies - just picked up a new dremel (mine was 35 years old and still works !) to fit in their workstation (basically their drill press) - thinking I mount the dremel at 90 degrees and dial the motor to a lower speed and it should work - any input here is appreciated. I wish Jim Byrnes had some sort of spindle sander as good as his disc sander.... -
Hey Group, I'm gearing up for my first framed build next year and wondering what is the preferred tool for sanding interiors of curved pieces - is the desk top stop spindle sander the best solution or could you simply mount a dremel rotary tool in a drill press attachment and use that ? Dimensions of the wood should be no larger than 1/4 inch thick. Just wondering if the spindle would be too high powered for this sort of operation. Thanks, Chris
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Jim Byrnes Model Machines
ChrisLBren replied to Mahuna's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Nice Jim - very proud owner of all three of these machines.... -
Tamiya primer is designed to adhere to metal parts. You should have no issue painting them once dry with acrylic or enamel. Belaying pins of this period were wood - not iron
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I primed them with Tamiya gray spray paint primer then painted them to look like wood
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This hull as is may become a decorative fixture (our interior designer for our new house loves it as is). Keep in mind all of this wood work/shelves will be painted some shade of white soon - Here's a model of how she should look like in a German museum. I keep entertaining the idea of restarting this build at some point to try to get her as close as I can to this appearance.
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Looking good !!!
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Finger still hurts a bit a week later but my model related injury hasn't stopped me ! Finishing Confederacy by year end or bust..... Update - the foremast channels are installed. I chose to paint Chucks nice boxwood deadeyes with Tamiya Flat Black paint. If I use paint/dye again on my next model (which Im leaning more to a "Belgian school" approach of all Pear) I will not bother with Fiebings dye - Tamiya flat black with an overcoat of Watcos Danish Oil looks as good as Fiebings with far less trouble in application. This is may be my last build at this scale - thanks to a photo etch set from Model Expo Ive been able to realize the chainplate assemblies - soldering them this small would be a serious pain - kudos to you Rusty !
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It happened this AM - cutting some small knees for my channels on my Preac and I got careless - while feeding the timber with my left hand my right hand was on the table to catch the part and some how my middle finger grazed the blade on the underside of the table... It was only a slight but sliced the tip of my finger to and dig into my nail. No MD necessary - but now I have a serious fear of these tools - and my Preac is nothing compared to its bigger brother the Jim Saw which is still boxed and waiting for the next project. First time I've cut myself with any tool while modeling in 20 years....
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I'm using Chuck's deadeyes from Syren and a photo etch set for the chainplates from Expo. The channels are ready - and Ive triple laminated boxwood for the knees for the channels - ready to be cut out. Im hoping to assemble next week after vacation.
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Im a huge fan of your build - have to agree with Peter though. Not sure if you would even need lighting if you cut some frames on one side for viewing the interior.
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Actually I did paint some resin sculptures and the ships wheel to resemble boxwood to be totally honest !
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The deck beams are Swiss pear - nothing is painted on the model - only used Fiebings Black Leather Dye for the black areas. Hope that helps
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Thanks guys - Ive attached a photo of workshop B - (which will eventually be workshop A when its remodeled next year). For now I'm using this space to saw and sand the remaining parts (which aren't many) on Confederacy - to spare the office of sawdust. My Jim Saw is still safely packed away - waiting for the next project and a proper workbench ! And I have finally settled on the next project. After going back and forth between Le Commerce (built as LOrient), the 74 Gun Ship and countless others - I have settled on Le Gros Ventre - built in 1/36 scale. I am ordering the enlarged plans. The larger scale for a fully framed build is more approachable and not too big - the hull will be approximately 45 inches. I could also potentially rig her - I have the space. I also feel metal work (which I am a complete novice) and sculptures will be a bit easier to realize at this scale. (not too mention as I age it will be easier on my eyes - LOL). Stay tuned for more pics as I wrap up Confederacy.
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At last the Shipyard re opens (well not the permanent one). After getting estimates of building out my new workshop - I've decided to put that off until next year. We have more pressing priorities with the house. So I made a trip to Home Depot - bought a great new tool chest that locks (which is great for child proofing) and a desk from Ikea and have set up shop in my library/office. I've also dusted her off and cleaned her up. Most of the messy parts of Confederacy are finished - all thats left is finishing the head rails, channels and deadeyes, and stump masts/anchors. I can always go saw in the garage if needed I'm a bit stuck on the headrails - the forward most timber is proving to be a bear. So I may finish up the channels and deadeyes so I can glue all of the gunport lids (these guys get knocked around easily) and then revisit the head. Im going on 6 years into this build as of end of November - really hoping to wrap it up this year.
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Hey Mike, Its just like double planking a hull - but in this case you lay your first layer of wales @ 1mm. Its so much easier to line things up and get a proper run. Then with the second layer you can use anchor stock planking or whatever joints you wish to simulate. Dye or paint your wales then proceed with your single planking (no need to mask !) on the rest of the hull and the wale line stays neat and tidy. Or in your case continue finish planking your hull to the keel. You then can dye all the way to the waterline (dont worry about masking since you are coppering and you are good to go!) You can be sloppy here since your copper tiles will be the waterline. As far as your approach on staining and dyeing - its going to be tricky. Both have a habit of running where you don't want it post installation of your planks. You can stain/dye the planks off the model but then you will always deal with possible glue spots/runs later or gaps between the planks you will need to fill. Thats why painting those areas or actually using wood the color you want to represent is so much more effective.
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By laminating the wales you can get the run perfect - and not worry about using jigs to bend for the curve - nor do you worry about butt joints on the top of the wale. With this method you lay the perfect foundation - and its actually easier and less time consuming !
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Dude this is why I told you to laminate the Wales (smile)
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Workshop Set Up Question
ChrisLBren replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks for the feedback everyone - I had a contractor visit today and he gave me some ideas. I think Im going to wall off both the area of the furnaces and the water heaters/storage area on the other side and just use the middle as my workshop which is actually large enough. Im going to run some more boxes along the walls for power that will then be dry walled and install lighting in the ceiling along with a box for a dust retrieval system. It will cut down my dry wall cost and maximize the useable space and seal everything else off.
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