Jump to content

ChrisLBren

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    710

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by ChrisLBren

  1. ChrisLBren
    Gents you can buy the 74 Gun Series in English directly from Ancre for 116 US dollars a piece new. Most resellers try to sell copies of used ones for much more than this. Chris
  2. ChrisLBren
    I'm enjoying watching your progress Mike - if this is any help - most museum models from the classic period do not depict hull caulking. I find that a good oil finish will be enough to highlight the lines between the boards - at least on the hull. For deck planking - a simple number 2 pencil does the trick. Chris
  3. ChrisLBren
    Hey Gaetan For me the trick of applying pure tung is to cut the first coat 50/50 with mineral spirits and then apply a second coat at full strength 24 hours later. I found that the thinned first coat insured even absorption of the second coat. Also much less seepage which is a tendency of pure tung. I am using Bitumen patina (which is a liquid) sold by art stores in Europe. It sounds like you are using the solid form of Bitumen. As far as the bitumen mix I've only used one coat thinned 50/50 with spirits after the tung is fully cured (a few days later) and it did go on like a wash. I haven't attempted a second bitumen coat - I'm sure the ageing effect would be more pronounced. I am curious to see how the effect would change if mixed it directly in the tung oil instead of used as a top coat. Ill have to try that one ! Chris
  4. ChrisLBren
    No pics of your finish/model wq3296? Great post Gaetan - thanks for the scientific info - I know the Fichant's model - its gorgeous and looks 200 years old. As to the mix Steve - there are different ways to apply it Gaeten mixes his with Tung Oil. I'm sure he can help you with the ratios. I learned from Dimitry Shevelev mix Bitumen patina 50/50 with mineral spirits and apply to finished and fully cured pure Tung Oil (at least two coats) - it sort of acts like a wash in oil painting - and wipe off the excess. Here's an example of his work (i think he learned this technique from Fichant. http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/74_gun_ship/ Hope this helps, Chris
  5. ChrisLBren
    Why don't you post a photo of your finish here using your products - so we can have a look at the results rather than just simply being dismissive of others? We'd love to see some photos. Chris
  6. ChrisLBren
    Hey Group, Still plugging away on the fenders and I'm about finished with them - photos soon. I'm considering finishing the WVH - she has sentimental value to me. The first step would be to sand off the wipe on poly - paint the hull tallow below the waterline, and apply my tung oil/ bitumen mix to age the planking that will be not painted. I've changed my mind so many times about my next project - so who knows (smile). Chris
  7. ChrisLBren
    Bob - hang in there with the figurehead. Its a leap of faith to learn to carve - I recommend sticking with boxwood and a scalpel. You can do it !!! Chris
  8. ChrisLBren
    I don't own any of these marvelous tools and am very jealous - I make due on an obsolete Preac table saw, a 30 year old Dremel, a rickety Delta scroll saw, and fingernail sanding sticks from a beauty salon...
  9. ChrisLBren
    Sure Jack - you could approach your model in this fashion to make sure its historically accurate. However in my opinion - the figurehead adds so much to the elegance of the model. Both Bourdriot's Cyclope and the Le Cygne are spectacular examples of this class - Id love to build a model one half as good as these examples.
  10. ChrisLBren
    Hey Andy, A couple ideas for you - I created my wale using two strips of 4mm by 3mm strips vs one 8 mm piece - it was much easier to install this way. Also you may want to consider mounting a strip equal to the thickness of your planking material and half of the dimension of your bulkhead former and mounted on your bulkhead former. Then go ahead and add the stem assembly and keel assembly on top of the strip now vs later after you've planked. What this does is create a rabbit for your planking and makes things much easier and cleaner when you plank - as the strips have a grove to mount into. I learned this technique from Chuck Passaro on my Confederacy build - Ive attached a photo of my bow so you can see.
  11. ChrisLBren
    Looking good Andy - again watch the level on those bridle ports when you are cutting the preformed wood at the bow. On one of the diagrams the levels depicted on those pieces are off - I had to re do mine - if you just make sure its the same height as the other ports from the deck while cutting it - you should be fine. Chris
  12. ChrisLBren
    Hey Andy, I broke out the plans and instructions/notes from my WVH build - they are pretty confusing ! I don't know how many kits you have built - the WVH was my 4th and in some ways more difficult than scratch building my Confederacy (Chucks plans and practicum are so much better and easier to follow). So I would advise you not to make modifications to the planking run at the bow due to the way the structure (cofferdam I believe its referred to in the model) is built. This ship is built in levels and I think making modifications here could really throw you. If you're going to paint the white stuff - you won't notice it anyway. Corel's version mainly leaves off quite a bit of decoration on the lower stern galleries and lower quarter galleries as well as the "curtains" surrounding the stern crest. There is also some filagree above the crest and below the lions at the stern that is also omitted. The head arrangement is also simplified - its missing some filagree on the cheeks and the "spike" is missing on the tip of the head rails. There are some other minor deviations but mostly its cosmetic. I can not speak for the rigging plans as I haven't gotten that far in my research to compare the books and various sets of plans. I'm here if you have any questions - have fun ! Chris
  13. ChrisLBren
    Andy heres' a Russian build log that might be helpful http://chez-xandra.be/publ/16-1-0-60
  14. ChrisLBren
    Thanks guys - Max I used two sets of plans from two German books written about 16th and 17th German warships - I'd be more than happy to share my research if Andy doesn't mind - I don't want to hijack his thread. I may or may not restart this build in the near term - first I have to finish my scratch built Confederacy and then I was thinking about moving onto the La Jacinthe. At the same time - I have kept the WVH in storage since 2006 - its a great kit and does deserve to be finished.
  15. ChrisLBren
    Hey Andy, Here are some photos of my WVH as she stands today - I built her between 2002-2005 using mostly kit parts - single planked with the walnut wood provided. I followed Corel directions as to where and how to start your planking run. It turns out well - - as you can see the wales are placed on top of the planking after she's fully planked -which is not correct. You see a lot of kit models constructed this way - because its easier. Wales go on first to determine your planking run - then you plank from there. If you want to paint your hull off white though - you can cover up the inaccurate run if you choose to follow the instructions. I also attached some photos of the main deck - I milled my own holly for deck planking and tried to do a cut away to show the lower gun deck - which at the time seemed like a good idea - but now looks wrong to me - there would have been a few more beams here. I also scratched my own gun carriages - because the ones in my kit were metal - i understand they have replaced these in newer kits. The good news is I did a lot of research - Corel's plans are strong. I did some research secondary sources and the other sheets of plans I ordered to research the WPV. Some things are simplified - but overall Corel did a nice job. Look forward to seeing your progress, Chris
  16. ChrisLBren
    Hi Andy, I have built this ship - my only comments - watch the bridal ports on the pressed wood - the levels are not correct on the instructions. Make sure to consult the plans. Also for a better looking ship - do not follow the planking instructions (they are simplified and not correct to actual practice). Install the wale first and then proceed to plank - there are plenty of good tutorials on how to do it right on this site. Lastly, i was able to use the kit provided walnut and single plank and was able to do the job without a problem. Just proceed slowly and build a pipe to soak your boards to be able to make the bends at the bow. Chris
  17. ChrisLBren
    Great idea - thank you !!!
  18. ChrisLBren
    Ha! - yes I will use Bitumen - but not on this build - I just want to finally finish Confederacy after almost 5 years in !
  19. ChrisLBren
    No worries Mitchel - this thread somehow turned into a carving post ! Take care, Chris
  20. ChrisLBren
    Thanks for the advice Gaetan - I used an Exacto #11 for all of these carvings on the quarter galleries - you are a master - ill give your blades a try on the next build which will have much less carving than this one.
  21. ChrisLBren
    Thanks Nigel - to get on my soap box - I feel that finish and carvings make a ship model. The one thing i learned very well on Confederacy - is to thin your first coat of oil 50/50 with spirits which will set you up for a uniform finish (as oil does not penetrate a hard wood like Pear uniformly). I learned this thru trial and error. There are many things I'd love to do over with Confederacy (one being not relying on Chucks resin carvings for the human figures on my stern !) - but thats another story - (a #11 Exacto and some courage - anyone can carve with enough persistence.) I'm formulating a very distinct approach on the next model - thats why I've picked a simple but beautiful schooner as a test bed for my ideas. As a novice oil painter - a Sepia wash actually might do the same thing as Bitumen - its worth a test to compare the results. Stay tuned, Chris
  22. ChrisLBren
    Mitchel - this thread is about finishes not shows. JerseyCity - i bought this Bitumen thru Ebay UK -not sure if its avail in the US. Gaetan your expert advice/input is always appreciated ! And Nigel - yes you are spot on - Dimitry's 74 model and his advice are my influence on this finish. The Bitumen works as a wash. Just a few kinks to work out - but I'm close.....
  23. ChrisLBren
    Hi Group, I've been playing around with my typical finish -3 Coats Pure Tung Oil (first one cut 50 percent by mineral spirits) and I've added Bitumen to the top coat and here are the results - thanks to Dimitry on the Russian forums for giving me this tip to age wood. No simulated caulking added here - just wood sanded to 600 and then finish applied This is the finish I will apply to my next build - La Jacinthe in 1/36th. Ive added some photos to compare this new technique to my usual on Confederacy. Your thoughts as always are appreciated, Chris
  24. ChrisLBren
    Thanks for the feedback everyone - my first preference is to do brass pedestals on an ebony stained display board. I think it can be done - Ill just need an assistant to hold the ship steady on the work table while its partially off its building board. Ill have to duck under the table and drill each hole in the keel from the underside with a pin vise. I've ripped out the fenders and am re working them - i wasn't happy with the angle on the hull and one of them got a bit blotched by some Fiebings dye at the rail on a touch up. I'm going on 5 years now on this build - might as well not compromise now. i have built a jig on my vise to make bending these parts easy and hope to have both sides wrapped up and on to gunport lids after Labor Day.
  25. ChrisLBren
    Im looking forward to following this build Jack. I love Frolich's model in Art of Ship Modeling - I've often considered this one myself. Some of the Ancre monographs do not provide drafted frames, Le Cygne, Venus, La Belle Poule and La Jacinthe all come to mind - nothing wrong with building them plank on bulkhead. I agree with Frolich that a fully planked model like this one will look really good masted, rigged and fitted with sails. Im considering La Jacinthe as my next project with a similar approach built POB. Take care, Chris

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...