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ChrisLBren

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Everything posted by ChrisLBren

  1. ChrisLBren
    Wow - that looks great ! What a stunning figurehead for a gorgeous model. Chris
  2. ChrisLBren
    Looking good Mark - go with the Pear if you can afford it - much better wood in terms of workability and less grain. Chris
  3. ChrisLBren
    Looking good Ben !
  4. ChrisLBren
    Looks great Toni !!!! Have you thought about cutting some of the frames on the unplanked sides to create some viewing windows into all of that beautiful work inside the hull that will never be seen again. A lot of Ancre modelers approach their builds this way - Im a huge fan of it. Chris http://modelisme.arsenal.free.fr/artdumodelisme/Le%20Gros%20Ventre/indexgb.html
  5. ChrisLBren
    So after another frustrating session with the head timbers - thought of a bright idea - rather than burn through boxwood - Im going to make templates out of basswood and transfer to box. Lets see if this works....
  6. ChrisLBren
    Hi Group, Just received this email from Ancre this AM = needless to say its on the top of my Xmas list - now just to make the decision if I want them in 1/72nd or 1/48th scale. Its really cool that they are also adding documentation for a building the 1782 Centaur or the 1785 Superb - so you have a choice of a specific vessel vs a generic example of this class. http://ancre.fr/en/ouvrages-de-base-en/73-plans-de-la-charpente-du-v74-canons.html Chris
  7. ChrisLBren
    Back from Thanksgiving and thinking the next move is to instead finish the head rails/head. I'm going to change my approach on the head timbers this time - rather than the rear one - Im going to start with the forward most one first. That way i can get the angles right and just merely shrink them and then be able to slot them into the correct position. At least thats the plan now....
  8. ChrisLBren
    Thanks guys ! I've been searching Ebay/Etsy for vintage drawer/cabinet hardwood knobs to mount her on - thinking that would look sweet along with an ebony stained/dyed display board. That's the next step - as most of you know there is a slight warp on my hull of about 1/16th inch which I think I can mitigate when I mount her. Then I can warp up the channels/chain plates, stub masts, anchors and head rails.
  9. ChrisLBren
    Thanks Ben, Rusty and Mark - here are the updated photos. I will be adding the channels next in boxwood and dye their inverted knees with Fiebings black leather dye. I will scratch the deadeye strops and chain plate assemblies (hoping to get a torch for Xmas), then its finishing the head rails and adding the stump masts/anchors and mounting her to a display board. Yancovitch - I did not simulate caulking on the hull planking - not really a fan of that look - and most museum models do not show this detail. You can see from the photos that the Tung Oil finish I used did accentuate the lines of the planking slightly - which was the effect I wanted. I used a number 2 pencil to simulate caulking for the deck planking. As far as treenailing - at this scale i didn't want to bother with it - I do think think the drilling and saw dust method would work well though if you want to go for it. All planks were glued to each other and the bulkheads to try to get as tight of a result as possible. Hope that helps - and thanks for the kind words! Happy Thanksgiving ! Chris
  10. ChrisLBren
    Fenders installed - gun port lids just about finished - photos in next couple days. All I have left on this one is the channels/deadeyes and wrapping up the head rails. Five years into this build as of Thanksgiving....
  11. ChrisLBren
    Looking good Rusty - i use pure tung oil and sand - works great as filler. Im sure the same technique would work with wipe on poly. Chris
  12. ChrisLBren
    Gents you can buy the 74 Gun Series in English directly from Ancre for 116 US dollars a piece new. Most resellers try to sell copies of used ones for much more than this. Chris
  13. ChrisLBren
    I'm enjoying watching your progress Mike - if this is any help - most museum models from the classic period do not depict hull caulking. I find that a good oil finish will be enough to highlight the lines between the boards - at least on the hull. For deck planking - a simple number 2 pencil does the trick. Chris
  14. ChrisLBren
    Hey Gaetan For me the trick of applying pure tung is to cut the first coat 50/50 with mineral spirits and then apply a second coat at full strength 24 hours later. I found that the thinned first coat insured even absorption of the second coat. Also much less seepage which is a tendency of pure tung. I am using Bitumen patina (which is a liquid) sold by art stores in Europe. It sounds like you are using the solid form of Bitumen. As far as the bitumen mix I've only used one coat thinned 50/50 with spirits after the tung is fully cured (a few days later) and it did go on like a wash. I haven't attempted a second bitumen coat - I'm sure the ageing effect would be more pronounced. I am curious to see how the effect would change if mixed it directly in the tung oil instead of used as a top coat. Ill have to try that one ! Chris
  15. ChrisLBren
    No pics of your finish/model wq3296? Great post Gaetan - thanks for the scientific info - I know the Fichant's model - its gorgeous and looks 200 years old. As to the mix Steve - there are different ways to apply it Gaeten mixes his with Tung Oil. I'm sure he can help you with the ratios. I learned from Dimitry Shevelev mix Bitumen patina 50/50 with mineral spirits and apply to finished and fully cured pure Tung Oil (at least two coats) - it sort of acts like a wash in oil painting - and wipe off the excess. Here's an example of his work (i think he learned this technique from Fichant. http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/74_gun_ship/ Hope this helps, Chris
  16. ChrisLBren
    Why don't you post a photo of your finish here using your products - so we can have a look at the results rather than just simply being dismissive of others? We'd love to see some photos. Chris
  17. ChrisLBren
    Hey Group, Still plugging away on the fenders and I'm about finished with them - photos soon. I'm considering finishing the WVH - she has sentimental value to me. The first step would be to sand off the wipe on poly - paint the hull tallow below the waterline, and apply my tung oil/ bitumen mix to age the planking that will be not painted. I've changed my mind so many times about my next project - so who knows (smile). Chris
  18. ChrisLBren
    Bob - hang in there with the figurehead. Its a leap of faith to learn to carve - I recommend sticking with boxwood and a scalpel. You can do it !!! Chris
  19. ChrisLBren
    I don't own any of these marvelous tools and am very jealous - I make due on an obsolete Preac table saw, a 30 year old Dremel, a rickety Delta scroll saw, and fingernail sanding sticks from a beauty salon...
  20. ChrisLBren
    Sure Jack - you could approach your model in this fashion to make sure its historically accurate. However in my opinion - the figurehead adds so much to the elegance of the model. Both Bourdriot's Cyclope and the Le Cygne are spectacular examples of this class - Id love to build a model one half as good as these examples.
  21. ChrisLBren
    Hey Andy, A couple ideas for you - I created my wale using two strips of 4mm by 3mm strips vs one 8 mm piece - it was much easier to install this way. Also you may want to consider mounting a strip equal to the thickness of your planking material and half of the dimension of your bulkhead former and mounted on your bulkhead former. Then go ahead and add the stem assembly and keel assembly on top of the strip now vs later after you've planked. What this does is create a rabbit for your planking and makes things much easier and cleaner when you plank - as the strips have a grove to mount into. I learned this technique from Chuck Passaro on my Confederacy build - Ive attached a photo of my bow so you can see.
  22. ChrisLBren
    Looking good Andy - again watch the level on those bridle ports when you are cutting the preformed wood at the bow. On one of the diagrams the levels depicted on those pieces are off - I had to re do mine - if you just make sure its the same height as the other ports from the deck while cutting it - you should be fine. Chris
  23. ChrisLBren
    Hey Andy, I broke out the plans and instructions/notes from my WVH build - they are pretty confusing ! I don't know how many kits you have built - the WVH was my 4th and in some ways more difficult than scratch building my Confederacy (Chucks plans and practicum are so much better and easier to follow). So I would advise you not to make modifications to the planking run at the bow due to the way the structure (cofferdam I believe its referred to in the model) is built. This ship is built in levels and I think making modifications here could really throw you. If you're going to paint the white stuff - you won't notice it anyway. Corel's version mainly leaves off quite a bit of decoration on the lower stern galleries and lower quarter galleries as well as the "curtains" surrounding the stern crest. There is also some filagree above the crest and below the lions at the stern that is also omitted. The head arrangement is also simplified - its missing some filagree on the cheeks and the "spike" is missing on the tip of the head rails. There are some other minor deviations but mostly its cosmetic. I can not speak for the rigging plans as I haven't gotten that far in my research to compare the books and various sets of plans. I'm here if you have any questions - have fun ! Chris
  24. ChrisLBren
    Andy heres' a Russian build log that might be helpful http://chez-xandra.be/publ/16-1-0-60
  25. ChrisLBren
    Thanks guys - Max I used two sets of plans from two German books written about 16th and 17th German warships - I'd be more than happy to share my research if Andy doesn't mind - I don't want to hijack his thread. I may or may not restart this build in the near term - first I have to finish my scratch built Confederacy and then I was thinking about moving onto the La Jacinthe. At the same time - I have kept the WVH in storage since 2006 - its a great kit and does deserve to be finished.

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