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ChrisLBren

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Posts posted by ChrisLBren

  1. Hey Mark,

    Frolich chose to draft frames and build it over a plug (much like building a ships boat) in the Art of Ship Modeling.  The most common approach is to use bulkheads - this Monograph is designed to be the introduction to ship building for novices.  You could probably cut out all 11 bulkheads and former with your scroll saw over one weekend easily. 

    Chris

  2. Thanks Michael and Ben for your feedback.  Ben - cross sections aren't really my thing at the moment.  What's attractive about the La Jacinthe is that it is an elegant little ship - @ 1/48 the hull is only 19 inches long and rigged and masted it would be 30 inches.  Its shouldn't be too much of a challenge/stressful - but a great ship to focus on perfecting the basics while learning some new techniques.  I really want to fully rig and add sails to a model.  Theres some modest carving and metal work.  And only two guns.   If done right this ship can be a museum piece.  This example won many awards in Europe.  

     

    http://5500.forumactif.org/t1490-la-jacinthe-de-snarlev-au-1-48eme

     

    Based on my schedule a 120 gun monster is off the table for the next 18 years - I am going to give Confederacy a go again this weekend and see if i can get re energized.  But I've been in love with this pretty little schooner for some time now.  So we will see,

    Chris

  3. Thanks for the responses guys - honestly because my time is so limited - maybe a more complicated full frame build is not the answer - but rather an easier subject where I will see payoff a lot sooner - and I can focus on improving the fundamentals (planking, metal work, rigging, and possibly sail making etc). 

     

    I've had my eye on this beauty for some time - Frolich built this one and called it a "ship modelers holiday" between lengthy builds in "The Art of Ship Modeling"  The price is about the same as enlarged plans of Le Gros Ventre @ 1/36th

     

    http://www.editions-ancre.com/Product.aspx?ID=3807269&L=EN

     

    Thanks for chiming in Mike - you know my world right now !!! 

    Chris

  4. Thanks Nils.

     

    Group I am stuck - I haven't had any motivation to build (which is a shame because I can see the finish line on this one).  I used to work on Confederacy every day when I started her in Nov of 2009.  I do have 18 month old twins and can use that excuse but there are others on this board in the same situation as me.  About the best I've done with Confederacy lately is dust her off.  

     

    I still follow builds on this site as well as the Ancre site and do research.  I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and buy the Le Gros Ventre plans blown up to 1/36th from Gerard Delacroix (I already own the monograph and plans at 1/48) and and start assembling some frames on that build.   Maybe sawing some wood for a new project will get me motivated again about ship modeling and enthusiastic about wrapping up Confederacy. 

     

    This lethargy has nothing to do with not being happy with my build - in fact this one is the first build I'm proud of.  Can anyone else out there relate ?

    Chris

  5. Hi Jay,

    My process with pure Tung Oil is simple - apply first coat thinned 50 percent with mineral spirits (this is key for your base coat for maximum absorption) - let dry for 24 hours.  Lightly steel wool with 0000 - then apply second coat full strength - let it sit for 10 -15 minutes then buff with t shirt - watch for seepage (you shouldn't get much - since you thinned your base coat). Again let dry for 24 hours - steel wool and apply final coat full strength and remove excess after 10 minutes or so.  Let dry 24 hours and you're done - I don't steel wool final coat.

     

    Keep in mind this is using pure Tung Oil on a hardwood (in my case Pear) - you should be good to go after letting the final oil coat cure for a few days.  I've never had a problem glueing a part to a surface i have applied this finish to - again you do need to sand or scrape the area you will be glueing the part to - then just reapply some oil after the part has dried - works like a charm.

    Chris

  6. Looking really nice Danny - I'm at a similar point on Confederacy - i know how difficult it is to scribed parallel grooves on the headrails and cheeks.  Ben to answer your question - swiss pear is softer to carve than box.  Euro box is the best if you can find it, costello box almost as good.  I had some costello crumble on me while attempting these rails on my build.  Can't imagine them coming out half as good as yours Danny in swiss pear - kudos !

    Chris

  7. I've seen this gorgeous model Nigel - thanks for sharing !  As you've mentioned - its up to the builder to determine his/her own style.  On my Confederacy build I completely borrowed/stole Frolich's approach.  When I get to my next build - Im hoping to create my own style.  I do know this - I'm going to scale up - either 1/36 or 1/32 (which again seriously wondering why I haven't seen a ship depicted in 1/32 scale)

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